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Posts posted by Eightpot
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I had a poke around the twin engined 2CV Dakar entrant at Goodwood a couple of years back - very nicely put together
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I can recommend this brake pipe kit, have been using one in the workshop for a couple of years and makes consistently good flares very easily, plus can be used to repair pipes still on the vehicle. Don't be tempted with the cheap generic tools or halfords type, they are pretty universally awful.
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I can't figure out if the powered trailer sat in the middle is a great idea or a very minor adjustment or stuck throttle cable away from an utter frank spencer style disaster 🤔
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I think this comes under flawed thought process. Obviously a dutchman who'd not yet seen an inclined road nevermind a hairpin bend 😄
I was really hoping he'd installed the driver seat on the top deck 🤣
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I do quite a few of these - it can be a bit of a one shot deal depending how rusted, stuck & rounded the bolt so I normally dump plenty of heat around the bolt (I rarely heat bolts as it seems counter-productive) let it cool slightly then squirt plenty release oil round the bolt, give it half hour then back on the heat, hammer an Irwin socket on nice & tight and they normally give up. On occasion I've had to unbolt the axle flange and take the whole swivel assembly & hub to the bench..
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Handbrake adjuster shoes
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moved down into Kruger to take some time to properly explore it from top to bottom - it's not the ideal safari truck with the sliding side windows & letter box screen, but getting up at 4am, flicking the switch on the 6 cylinder rover engine and getting the quiet low wuffle rather than a harsh diesel clatter, the dim glow of the lights and the breeze through the vents - heaven.
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The standard set up is more than adequate so long as it's well maintained and checks are done regularly. I've not managed to break one badly enough to prevent onward mobility in many years of overlanding in some very harsh environments. Avoid driving where you might get bogged and spend your money on diesel & wine instead 🙂
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33 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
Wow 🤩
fabulous trip, beautiful 109, amazing landscapes.
Would love you to share more, on both the trip and how you kit the 109 and yourselves out for it.
I’d read whatever you’d be willing to share 😊
Thanks - I'm still in Kruger, currently perched in a cottage overlooking the Olifants river, the landscape far below dotted with tiny ellies, giraffes, zebra, hippos.
So far as kitting out, I always keep it very simple. The car is 100% standard, running on G90 tyres which are nice in these sandy/gravel conditions and it has a second long range fuel tank. I fell lucky with the car - bought unseen on gumtree for cheap from a deceased estate, turns out it's previous owner kept it beautifully maintained, and other than popping a new rad, water pump and service items on for peace of mind it's driven like a swiss watch. I've added a removeable board in the rear load area so I can stow the camp table/chairs underneath & other gear on top.
I pack just enough tools & vital spares to deal with anything moderately straightforward, if anything huge happens I'll open a beer and sit till someone passing can tow me somewhere. A jerry of fuel & water, gas bottle with screw on burner, fridge with leisure battery through a simple solenoid, and beyond the normal camping paraphernalia of chairs/mats/tent that's it - once you've added a few days worth of food/beer and a couple of cases of clothes she's full.
This outing is only a couple thousand km and help is reasonably readily available - if I were to go in to Botswana/Namibia I normally take a solar panel, bit more fuel, bit more water, otherwise not too much different. The lighter the better always.
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Will definitely return to explore this place and the wider Limpopo river area again. Heading East towards the uppermost gate of Kruger NP - air temperature is savagely hot with a bone dry hot wind blowing. Had a couple of worries with the water temp rising after a few hours on the road and had to stop a couple of times to let the big iron 2.6 block dissipate some heat, but finally made it in to Kruger on a light throttle at 30mph praying the head gasket held.
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Lots of interesting flora & fauna to explore up here - I spend all my money on landies rather than cameras so wont put my embarassing wildlife shots on, though I can pick up some of the huge baobab trees ok with the tiny lens on the back of my phone! Still no probs with the car despite the previous days off roading and rock bashing, and daytime temperature of 38 degrees
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Some great trails along the banks of the great Limpopo river. The 109 feels very at home here, surprisingly haven't seen another series in a fortnight, and only a handful of Defenders. It's been a great talking point though with old boys stopping to chat about the 2a all the way up, usually warning me not to take it on any long journies 😄
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At long last I managed to get back to South Africa and pick up the 2a for a trip north to Mapungubwe national park, before heading off to Kruger. Bit worried the old girl might have been a bit worse for wear after almost two years standing, but fired straight up and after a few checks and fuel up headed to a local camp to check the rest of the gear
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7 hours ago, Sutek2009 said:
'm not sure I understand about using a dial gauge to set the pump timing?
As the pump rotates, it operates a plunger, pushing it along a fuel filled cylinder building up pressure until it is released up the injector pipe. The pump 'timing' is setting where along its path up the cylinder the plunger gets to. When #1 piston is at tdc, cam is on its timing mark, and pump flange is lined up with timing slot, the injection pump plunger has to have achieved 1.54mm 'lift'. You measure the lift by removing the screw on cap at the back of the pump, inserting a suitable rod attached to a dial gauge, which is in turn fixed to the pump, rotating pump and turning gauge bezel to zero at the lowest point, rotating pump till you get 1.54mm lift, locking pump and fitting sprocket. You can pick up dial gauge kits on ebay suited to checking pump lift.
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You'll be limited by the bolt pattern on the engine backplate, and if it was in a Range Rover it may have used an LT95, LT77, R380, ZF, Chrysler torqueflight. Different spigot bearing diameters possible also.
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The disco used a rrc chassis/bulkhead and inner wings, so you can drop disco parts straight in. The Defender gearbox isnt long enough, doesn't fit. All bolt holes were brought over from the earliest rrc to the latest disco 1 - an R380 and LT230 bolts straight in. You will need to change engine mounts. A 300tdi & ancilleries plus r380/lt230 is a better option.
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13 minutes ago, Wytze said:
It's a petrol V8😋
Oh arr - well the job just got bigger, we need to fit a nice diesel first 😄
As de ranged says there may be something to the castor angle business, doesn't take much to knock a shopping trolley off kilter though I don't understand the dynamics myself. I think if you can run it with the wheels off the floor you can separate dynamic balancey issues from gyroscopicy ones.
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I would heat the propshaft nut with a plumbers blowtorch till the plastic in the nyloc dribbles out, then use a big flat screwdriver to lever against the back of the bolt while you undo the nut.
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Yeah you'll need some big ass stands with portals, and it does feel mildy scary when the wheels are spinning off the ground, though just ticking over at idle will probably show up the problem, found similar probs this way in the past. Some kind of dead mans switch might be sensible - string tied to the diesel solenoid wire 😬
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Have you tried getting it up on axle stands front & back and running it to see if you can see anything obvious as the wheels/props are turning?
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Starter motor won't disengage
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Last time I dealt with this kind of fault it was down to an overheated and melted solenoid on the starter motor. I suspect that may have been brought on by another fault but it was a few years ago - possibly a faulty ignition switch or wiring short that kept the motor spinning while the engine was running.
Incidentaly, the wiring on that solenoid looks awfully close to touching the metalwork on the photo?