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MuddyWinny

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Posts posted by MuddyWinny

  1. Hello,

    I understand where you are coming from as I would rather pay a bit more for a good quality DIY tool but ir can be difficult to be confident that is what you are getting.

    A while ago I was recommended Norbar; not as cheap as some but not as expensive as others.

    One point to note was that they specify and accuracy of +-3% where as cheaper ones tend to be higher. I have never had them calibrated so I can't confirm if they have are still within tolerance though.

    I'll not be offended if others think they are poor but I have been happy with them.

    I think Cromwell Tools sell them (if not you can contact Norbar for a retailer).

    Personally I have never liked the type in your last link.

    Mark

  2. I use Rigger Gloves like these (Not Dewalt though) : http://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-specialist-handling-rigger-gloves/37738

    They are ok but a frayed end can still stab you through them. I also find that when winching out of a gloopy pit of mud during a pay and play day they get totally covered in mud and soaking wet.

    For the amount of winching I do (which is very little) they are fine. Westerns idea of Welding Gauntlets seems pretty good to me.

    Mark

  3. Hello,

    A per my earlier post I am fitting an early 300tdi Discovery engine into an early 90. Since I am retaining the LT77 gearbox the will sit further back than then the production 300tdi defender.

    I would like to fit a straight through centre section as I can see that the current exhaust has been bumped and scraped from off road fun and I'm surprised it hasn't been damaged more than it has.

    I had planned to fit a standard non-cat etc 300tdi defender down pipe and be prepared to shorten it to compensate for the engine sitting further back.

    Does anyone know if I'm best continuing with a 300tdi system or whether is better/possible/easier to fit 200tdi centre and rear sections (it looks like the 200tdi rear will be easier to fit)?

    Thanks

    Mark

  4. Hello,

    I’m about to fit an early 300tdi Discovery engine into a 2.25 petrol 90.

    I have heard that it is possible to adapt the flywheel housing from the 300tdi to fit the LT77 by moving some of the studs and dowels. Has anyone done this or know if it is true?

    I have read a number of threads and most say to fit an earlier flywheel housing. However I’d rather keep the 300tdi housing and starter motor (the starter on the petrol is a two stud version) if I can.

    As far as I am aware clutch STC8358BB will fit all models 300tdi and earlier.

    Thanks

    Mark

  5. I had the same problem with my 90 a few years ago. I would take Retroanaconda's advice however I also renewed the bottom spring as I'm sure my one was weak. If I can remember correctly, it is the only spring that pulls the rear most brake shoe forwards and didn't seem to be doing a particularly good job of it.

    Since the spring is at the bottom of the shoe it doesn't seem to have very much 'moment' to keep the shoe away from the drum.

    I can recommend moving to rear disk brakes.

  6. Does anyone what is currently happening with Fortune 4x4 who were operating from Laindon in Essex?

    IIRC when I last spoke to Tim (the MD) he said they were planning to open in Billericay and to keep an eye on their web site. However, the web site still shows the Basildon contact details for Laindon;

    I am unable to contact them on their old number or by e-mail.

    They were always very helpful with parts.

    Thanks

    Mark

  7. Thanks again for the replies.

    I'm generally happy working on vehicle electrics and feel I have a basic understanding of engine management.

    With regards to power the original plan was to fit the engine then up the boost and tweak the injector pump.

    Am I correct in saying that the later injector pump mentioned by Vulcan Bomber is part of EDC (hence, if the donor does not have EDC I will be able to use its injector pump)?

    Mark

  8. Hello,

    I think the time for an engine change on my 2.25 petrol 90 came and went some years ago. However, I really am hoping I can find some time in a month or two to get started.

    Since reading this excellent post http://forums.lr4x4....pic=64756&st=20 I have been tempted to fit a 300tdi (if not then it is likely to be a 200tdi with 300 turbo and exhaust manifold).

    I aim to keep the exisitng LT77 gearbox

    My quesiton is does it matter if the donor (most likely to be a Discovery) is an auto or manual?

    Thanks

    Mark

  9. I noticed a simlar thing on my 90. I struggled to work out what it was until I changed the rear axles (to upgrade fro mdrun to disk brakes). When I looked at the old flexible brake pipe I found it had gone soft near one end and, I guess, was expanding under pressure.

    Ok, I realise I had changed the whole axle but the drum brakes never used to be that bad and when bending the old flexible pipe in various places you could see it was in poor condition near one end fitting.

    Regards

    MW

  10. Hello,

    While swapping the rear axle on my 90 I learnt a little about different drive shafts (this said, if anyone else knows better please correct me).

    Firstly, if your Discovery is a later 200tdi then it will have the 'thin' flange 10 spline drive shafts which are interchangeable with the 24 spline shafts. The Ashcroft website has a good picture of these two side by side.

    If not, then it is an earlier version with the thick flange shafts (the same as early Range Rovers).

    As you say, you cannot change between thick and thin flange shafts (easily...)

    What you can do is swap the stubaxles and hubs for later (metric ?) ones to accept a thin flange drive shaft, keeping your axle casing (see Crown Diffs as they sell a kit. Steve is a helpful chap). I believe the bearings and discs are the same.

    However, one option may be to fit Ashcroft hardened shafts as well (there is probably a bit a debate over running a locker with standard or upgraded shafts...). Looking on the Ashcroft site they say that if you are converting from a 10 spline shafts then all you need is a 24 spline diff - this might mean that they have a drive member to fit both metric and imperial hubs but I would certainly phone and speak to them first.

    Not sure about elongating the holes in a 300tdi shaft. Not something I would recommend.

    Regards

    MW

  11. Hello,

    I have always understood that later front radius arms are slightly smaller than the earlier ones although that was at the axle end - no idea about the thread. Whether this is a 200tdi/300tdi thing or not I don't know.

    Happy to be corrected if I'm wrong...

    Regards

    MW

  12. Hello,

    I had a similar problem with my 90 and it turned out to be the wheel box(?) had seized.

    What had happened was the rubber seals covering where the wiper shaft protrudes from the casing of the wheel box had perished allowing water along the shaft causing it to rust. This was a gradual process as the wipers started gettingh slower and slower before finally only going half way accross the screen (maybe jus the drivers side).

    Anyway, after stripping muc hof the dash down I managed to rebuild the wheel box and use a short lenght of rubber pipe as a new seal.

    Regards

    MW

  13. Hi,

    I had the same issue with my old drop arm in that the lip was missing. I seem to remember the cheap Paddocks drop arm kit came with a new lip although I have heard of a few of these cheap kits failing pretty quickly.

    I ended up buying a new arm but when I get some time I'll try fitting a new lip and seeing how it goes.

  14. Hi,

    I know you are discounting the 'cheaper' ones but I bought a cheap electronic lucas 44D from ebay (from 'dandjset' for about £40 IIRC) and have been really pleased with it (my old dizzy was so worn with lateral play in the shaft making the engine run poorly).

    Let me know if you'd like me to see if I can find out any more about it. However, if you can install Megajolt for £125 that would be my choice.

    Regards

    MW

  15. Hello,

    I had the very same question when I repalced the oil seal and drive flange on my early 90 (castellated nut with split pin). I asked at my local Landrover dealer while buying the seal and they were very helpful; 96 lbft was the reply (which fits nicely in the 70-120 range stated below).

    My understanding is the same as Off Road Toad in that the preload is largely set by the shims between the two tapered bearings on the pinion shaft.

    IIRC to test the bearing preload you'd need to remove the crown wheel from the diff and measure the effort to rotate the pinion shaft.

    When I replaced by seal and drive flange I simply undid the nut, replaced the parts and did the nut back up, not fogetting the split pin. So far all has been well.

    Regards

    MW

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