MuddyWinny
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Posts posted by MuddyWinny
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I had something similar on my LT77 (2.25 petrol though).
Basically the knuckle(?) at the base of the gear level was covered in mud. Once it was cleaned and lubricated getting over the gate and into reverse was fine.
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Just to clarify,
The sympton I had was that I could hear the solenoid click once when I turned the key (not 'clicking' as in my earlier post).
I remember my looking at a friends car that wouldn't start; when they turned the key you could hear the solenoid constantly clicking until the key was released. The problem was the battery. It was storing such little charge it could activate the solenoid but as soon as the motor was switched on the voltage dropped enough to deactivate the solenoid... which switched off the supply to the motor causing the battery voltage to rise sufficiently to activate the solenoid..... and so on.
Hope this helps.
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I had the same symptoms with my 90 (2 1/4 petrol). It took a number of turns for the key before the engine turned over and started yet each time you could hear the solenoid clicking.
It turned out that the solenoid cap was faulty. As I understand it the solenoid has two functions on a pre-engaged starter, 1) slide the gear wheel attached to the starter along the shaft so that it engages with the ring gear on the flywheel, and 2) once the gears are engaged switch on the supply to the starter to turn the engine.
Although the coil in the solenoid was fine (hence the clicking as the starter gear wheel was engaged with the flywheel) the contacts were worn causing a resistance in the supply to the motor.
My starter is as Lucas 2M100 and I was able to get the cap replaced (as well as some other bits done on it). I don't know if you can do that with your starter but if you can't I would have thought you could replace just the solenoid.
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Ah I was too slow. I was also going to suggest unplugging the alternator.
The battery light is normally the supply to the field connection on the alternator. If there was a fault then I was guessing there might be a feed back from the alternator to the battery light and the auxiliary circuit.
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My 90 (1986) somethnig similar. It was the handbrake cable vibrating on the underside of the seatbox under certain conditions.
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First, apologies for the blurred pictures; I took them in a bit of a hurry at the weekend.
My droparm.
The rubber boot isn't going to stay on that lip.
The metal ring:
This looks better (when it's finally pressed on properly)
I'd say that my drop arm has seen better days but for the price of a kit from paddock I'll give it a go. I think the kit is from Bearmach.
Hope this helps.
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I might be able to shed some light on the metal ring you are referring to.
When my drop arm balljoint went I bought a repair kit (Britpart), removed the drop arm (I must be one of the really lucky ones as it came off with a standard two legged puller) and went to fit the new balljoint. However, I found that the lip that the rubber boot fits to was missing although there was a small flange protruding from the drop arm. The rubber boot was never going to stay fitted to the flange and the kit I bought didn't a new lip. I returned the Britpart kit and bought a different one from Paddock; this one came with the ring you are referring to and I believe it presses onto the flange on the end of the drop arm so that the rubber boot has a lip to fit round.
At this point I must admit that I fitted a new drop arm complete with balljoint as I needed to get the Landrover back on the road before I got round to ordering the kit from Paddock.
I hope this makes sense. If not, since the old drop arm hasn't had the kit fitted to it I'm happy to take some pictures of the drop arm and lip if you think it would help?
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Thanks to every one for their help.
I have now fitted a pattern electronic version of the Lucas 45D and my what a difference; I wish I had done it long ago.
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Not that I have ever fitted one but yes I believe you do. An electronic distributor earths the LT side of the coil electronically for the correct duration rather than it being done mechanically by points. However the body of the distributor still needs to be rotated to determine when this will happen and a spark produced.
Since there are no points 1) you don't have to set a gap to determine the dwell angle, and 2) there are no contacts to deteriorate with use.
If you don't mind me asking what mpg are you getting from a 2.5l? (I get 13 -15 mpg from my 2.25 at the moment but it isn't running well and I have Firestone SATs fitted)
MW
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Les,
Thanks for that. Strangely enough I was looking at electronic ignition distributors on ebay earlier today; I think it's time to fit one.
MW
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I was looking at fitting these to my 90 a couple of years ago but settled for Firestone SATs (ebay) instead.
Paddock used to list them on their web site although looking yesterday they are only listing the radials; it's probably worth giving them a call though.
I seem to remember Akehurst tyres were able to supply them (West Hanningfield, Essex - 01277 840599) although this may be alittle out of you way.
Another site that may be of help is www.4site4x4.co.uk
MW
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Ok, I’ll admit now that I have an early 90 fitted with a 2.25 petrol but I guessing that there’ll be more knowledge and help amongst Series owners.
The engine is of the later 5 bearing type and currently has a Ducelier distributor fitted. However, while changing the points due to poor running and lack of power I noticed that the dwell angle varies +- 5 degrees after the engine has been revved and returning to idle which I’m guessing is due to wear (especially as I know dirt has managed to find it’s way); this is something that it never used to do.
From looking at the Landrover manual the vacuum pipe is fitted with a device at the distributor end that is only shown with the Lucas distributor although this may simply be misleading.
The question is whether to replace the current distributor with another Ducelier or the Lucas one, whether it makes any difference which one is fitted or if there is a general preference?
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Thanks for the reply.
The P/S box seems to leak more just afer switching the engine off (as opposed to sitting on the drive with the engine running) and even then it varies in how much leaks. I'll see how it goes and maybe try to get hold of another steering box and have a go at replacing the seals on the old one.
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Does anybody know how easy/difficult it is to replace the seals in a power steering box (it's the 3 bolt type). Do you have to strip the steering box down or can the seals be replaced by simply prising out the old ones and drifting the new ones in?
Fluid is leaking from underneath onto the drop arm so it is this one I'm most interested in.
I have already managed to remove the drop arm from the steering box (one of the lucky ones I guess).
Thanks
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Ah, I see somebody else has had the sme problem.
I also ordered a rear stub axle and gasket for my 90 (1986 2 1/4 petrol). When I checked the two the gasket was larger than the recess in the stub axle that the axle casing fits into yet the bol holes lined ok i.e. that same scenario as yourself.
Upon contacting Paddock and describing the problem it was suggested that I had the wrong axle fitted to my 90 event though the two parts supplied to me that were supposed to fit together didn't. Not to be put off I took a number of photos and forwarded them Paddock (showing that the new stub axle did actually fit onto my axle) and followed up with a phone call; this time I was told that the parts manager had said that the gaskets supplied are the ones they always sell.
Now I understand that when a Landrover gets to 20 years or so old it is likely to have different parts fitted to it and that this can cause a bit of a headache for suppliers but I had hoped for a better response; especially as I had supplied a number of pictures so that they could actually see the new stub axle fitted to the axle casing and the gasket too big for the supplied stub axle.
Anyway, after much help form a local company (and my wife going into Landrover for me) we obtained the correct gasket.
I won't confess to be an expert, and will stand corrected if I'm wrong, but this is what I found out:
1. FTC3649 is the correct part number for the stub axle to axle casing gasket.
2. Since the local garage had to place a number of orders from different suppliers under that parts number until the right one was obtained it would seem as if there has been a production problem of some kind where the wrong gasket if being supplied for FTC3649.
From what I believe (and I may be wrong):
1. The larger gasket is actually part number FTC3648
2. It is fitted to the rear axle of early(?) range rovers.
I hope this helps.
Finally, seeing as this is my first post I must apologise to the administrator who has to vet the above; I shall try to keep the next few posts a little shorter.
How much engine power does a PAS pump use?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I have power steering on my 2.25 petrol and and never had any concerns as to the load it places on the engine (even when towing).
Although these engines produce 60-70 bhp the 2.25 petrol produces something like 120lbft of torque (I think) which is sufficient to turn the power steering pump.
Thinking about it, my Corsa has power steering and that produces less power than the Landrover.
Personally it's not something I'd worry about.