Dorsetfreelander
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Posts posted by Dorsetfreelander
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" idiot reversed into the wife " "Also on mornings the old girl takes some starting up once she fires up she kicks a bit of smoke out the exhaust"
To get this clear we are talking about the Freelander aren't we?
Yes sounds like glowplugs, I had just this on Citroen. You will probably find that only one needs changing so if you can get to them with a meter you might be able to determine which one is opencircuit.
Biggest problem replacing a door is the weight, you will need a couple of helpers.
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The reason for the petrol versions being cheaper is that you need to budget for a head gasket repair ! It's very common on the K series engine, happened to me in 2003 on a 2 year old FL1 company car at around 40k miles. The TD4 is basically a redesigned car after BMW took them over, not only changed the engine but they changed the rear diff ratio to reduce excess "castellation" wear on the rear tyres, They also changed the wiring loom and generally made it a much better car. I had a 52 manual and an 04 auto and had no problems with either apart from a rear window motor failing which wasn't too difficult to change.
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I had three FL1s with no real problems up to about 80k miles when I moved them on apart from the first one being a petrol so had the inevitable head gasket go. Remember though, that you are buying a car that's around 13 years old so expect trouble at any time. Also you mention the size of the 4 door version, it's exactly the same as the 3 just a clever piece of design work. You might be better off going for an early FL2, more room, quieter, more fuel efficient, etc although I think that the FL1 looks more like a proper 4x4 with the wheel on the back.
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Passenger side wheel bearing probably front.
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Hard to say at this stage but have a look at this for a start
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Surely the critical clue here is the collapsing intake pipe (if that is what is happening), what evidence have you got suggesting the MAF sensor?
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Sorry I just read your thread title which says it's a 2002 TD4 auto.
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You haven't told us which engine (TD4 or TDi) or age or manual/auto etc I guess it's a diesel auto with a turbo problem . Conrod bearing (big end?) failure is unusual (especially at 160k kms) if car has had oil changed regularly. If not then poor oil could affect the turbo life. What other damage was caused when the conrod bearing failed - piston hit valves perhaps? If the intake pipes are collapsing there could be a blockage in the intercooler but you basically need to get the air intake circuit from air cleaner to turbo apart and checked for oil sludge.
Fundamentally, when the cost of repairs gets to this level on an old car there is only one sensible way out.
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It might sound a bit obvious but as it is speed related, have you checked the tyres? I have a Freelander 2 and had a rear end noise which sounded like a wheel bearing but turned out to be the tyres. Some tyres when they get low (especially Wranglers) can exhibit this effect. On the 1st gen FL1 there was well known problem with "castellation" especially on the rear ones which resulted in noisy tyres, this was caused by the fact that the rear diff ratio was slightly different to the front so as to keep the drive train "tight" (the VCU allowed some slippage) . When BMW took over they altered the rear diff ratio to reduce the effect on the gen 2 TD4 version of the FL1 but did not completely fix it. It might be worth swapping front to back to see if this is your problem.
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It's unlikely that both wheel bearings have gone at the same time and you can't always tell by jacking the car up as there is no weight on the wheel. Have you tried going around a corner and seeing if the sound is worse? If it was a wheel bearing it would be worse going around a corner when loaded ie on the outside of the bend.
Also check for brakes binding (are they hot after a run along a straight road, check handbrake too. What happens if you go over 30mph and put car in neutral, is it engine speed dependent etc.
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I would be looking along 3 routes.
1. is there an ABS problem on the wheel with the problem? ie are the brakes being applied by the ABS system to that wheel. Reasons for this could be a damaged sensor when you took the hub off to replace the cv.
2. is the front diff damaged? Turning the front wheels by hand might tell you if some diff teeth have dropped off somewhere.
3. did you replace the whole half shaft or just one end of it? What is the other end joint like?
I would also be wondering why the front cv failed rather than just going "clunky" or is the sudden failure indicative of something else ?
Good luck, not a good time of year to be crawling under a car.
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I suppose you have spoken to an exhaust centre like Kwik Fit already?
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You would be better off asking in the forum www.freel2.com which specialises in FL2s. This forum is more about FL1.
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Sounds like an airlock, on some engine you have to go through a special sequence of bleeding the pipes. Might be worth checking but I don't know this engine.
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Don't know about the gearbox but if the engine is rough to start and smoky and then is OK once warmed up look for a failed glowplug otherwise in the first instance I would be looking at an injector problem if it persists.
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As this is a Freelander 2 you would be better off registering on www.freel2.com . There is a known hesitation problem with 2011 facelift models with the reduced emissions. A number of people have seen hesitation during the summer which goes away in the winter. There are a couple of things that can be done to help like getting the latest software and doing a recalibration of the airflow system but fundamentally LR don't know how to fix it.
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Make sure you get a good warranty, I have had four FL2s in my family and three of them have had big problems. - gearboxes (2) , clutch, half shaft, throttle body, transfer box and now rear diff. Just about to call LandRover Assist out again on rear diff problem on 60 reg with 49k miles..
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Suggest you look at www.freel2.com. More up to date info there on FL2. Beware, these cars can generate big bills when they go wrong.
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I don't want to be a spoilsport but have you noticed how few bullbars you see around these days? It's basically due to the fact that if you fit them and hit a pedestrian you can be sued because you have modified the pedestrian friendly design of your vehicle and some insurance companies have refused to pay up on the grounds that it's an undeclared modification. Unless you have a real need (like you are a cattle farmer) be carefull on this one.
http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080903110905AAKvdXD
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I have a 2010 FL2 2.2 with about 50k on the clock. It has developed a vibration at around 50mph and I can feel some play in the inner CV joint on the front drivers side half shaft (I had both front wheels off the ground and the left side was fine but it was possible to feel some movement and a metallic clunk if you waggled the inner end of the right hand drive shaft. All of the CV boots look OK. So my question is, how easy is it to replace it? Has anyone done one? No Haynes manual so working blind on this one.
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Speaking as a Chemist I would have thought that it was OK, in a sealed container at room temperature then very little is likely to degrade. Compare this with the normal working environment in a hot engine where oil often goes for a couple of years between changes.
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Mine had the fixing broken at the end , I fixed easily it with a cable tie rather than drive to the garage. It's been OK since. This has been the least of my Freelander 2 problems this year (new clutch, throttle body, seized handbrake mechanism, replace steering fluid reservoir, howling noise from turbo and now drive shaft going wobbly) oh nearly forgot - rear passenger door not locking properly. My son works in Africa and says that you don't see Landrovers any more, everyone drives Toyotas.
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Had a scare recently when the red oil pressure light came on whilst driving (it looks like an oil can). There was plenty of oil in and sounded OK but light remained on after stopping and starting the car etc so took it to my local garage who had done some work on it that day. They found that the wire to the sensor just needed "waggling" a little and the light went out so presumably the connector had been disturbed. The sensor is not visible from the top of the engine but it is located just under the front near the middle and there is a blue wire that goes there which you can follow with your fingers. Hope this helps someone.
Automatic juddering Freelander 2 2.2 diesel
in Freelander Forum
Posted
I suspect that the last owner had the same problem and that's why he got rid of it. Putting in sports mode will make it stay in lower gears so does the problem then occur at 60/70 etc What happens if you use command shift, can you identify that it's in one particular gear? Can you take it back to the dealer?