Ian Barrett
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Posts posted by Ian Barrett
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And there was me thinking I'd hit a rich vein of knowledge
Mikey, I'll measure the airbox on my 2.5td in the morning if you think it would be any use. (the measurements that is, not that I'm offering you the airbox)
Thanks for the info Maverik, I like that idea and will certainly put it on the list.
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Morning all.
Sorting out my fuel lines got me cleaning the engine bay and I've decided I'm tired of the leaky metal PAS reservoir and the air filter box which is peeling its coating off line a snake shedding its skin.
I've changed the seal on the PAS reservoir but it still leaks - probably because there is a slight dint in the very top edge of the reservoir. I think I'm right in saying I can swap it for a plastic type. Can someone just confirm this for me because there seems to be a significant difference in size/capacity.
Also, anybody got ideas for sorting out the air filter canister?
Strip and repaint?
Replace?
Are there ali versions available of both this and the PAS reservoir?
Cheers
IanB
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Won't be the thrust bearing as you're right when you say it is only engaged when you press the clutch pedal and wouldn't be affected by road speed. They normally rattle like an old tin can when they're going or scream when you press the pedal.
It could be a prop UJ because the noise stops when you engage the clutch. They're fairly easy to test from under the vehicle and very easy and cheap to replace if you have a big vice.
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Like discomikey says, you could be concentrating on the wrong end.
I had an issue with my rear brakes locking up, despite the pistons being clogged up and barely working.
I decided I'd overhaul the entire system and I'm glad I did.
One front caliper had only one piston out of 4 working and the other had just 2 on the same side working because a couple of dust seals were missing.
When I stripped the calipers I found them absolutely full of crud, I couldn't believe how much rubbish was behind the pistons and I had what looked like slate slurry come out of the fluid oilways.
I don't think bleeding the system would have found these problems.
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I'm using Autoglym Bumper Care on my '87 Ninety (defender). Its brought up the wheel arch spats and door handle brilliantly and I was half way through the grille when it started to rain and I stopped for the day.
Simple to apply. On a cloth and rub it on. IT looks wierd when it comes out of the bottle but it certainly seems to do the job.
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Are you sure there isn't a slight leak somewhere?
Nothing dripping under the car?
Did you bleed the entire system after your work last year or just the back?
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FAIL !!!!!
001 (injector) Fuel system component leaking [ 7.2.1a ]
and an Advisory Item
002 (droparm) Ball joint has slight play [ 2.2.B.1f ]
They said the fail is is either a leaking fuel return pipe OR injectors.
Thats as much as they could tell me, they hadn't had a wipe around to see what it was or if the injectors just needed a nip up. Bloody useless.
I've got it home, fitted new fuel pipes and fuel clips and cleaned the engine. I just need to run it now to check its all OK
Booked in for a retest on Monday. I might even have the ball joint fixed before it goes back, just as a metaphorical poke in the eye
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If mine fails its YOUR fault Les as I've followed your guides for most of the jobs I've done.
(so a belated but very grateful Thank You anyway)
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I've just finished working on the Landy since February and booked it in for a new MOT tomorrow.
Its last MOT was October 2007 with 116281 miles on the clock and shes now done 117710 so she hasn't exactly been used in the last 4 years.
So after this lot I hope she will pass
Learn to weld !!
Remove exhaust and brackets, NAS towbar/step, A-frame, rear tie-bars.
Cut out rear chassis rot, weld in fillets and overplate for strength
Replace A-frame bush (cheated on this and got a local company to do it)
Clean and POR15 paint;
..the chassis from front bulkhead backwards (everything forwards of this is nicely covered in engine oil. The joys of a leaky rear crank seal)
..A-frame, exhaust brackets, tie bars and rear axle
..rear cross-member and fit the missing body spacers to stop the electrolytic corrosion
rewire the towbar electrics so I don't have to turn on the foglights to get the lights to work
refit the towbar
remove shocks and springs, test, paint then refit.
overhaul rear brake calipers with new seals etc
replace rear drums and shoes (TWICE because the drums were square and the shoe spring pins in the wrong place)
make new rear copper brake lines and front caliper hard line I broke removing the caliper (I had to learn how to make brake lines !)
fit braided hoses
refurbish front brake calipers with new pistons and seals
replace OSF brake rotor
replace front brake pads and install new pad retainer kit as the anti-rattle springs were missing
replace both front swivels and seals
replace both track rod ends and repaint the track rod
remove sills and fit new galvanised rock sliders
remove rock sliders because they're too blingy
prep and paint rock sliders with POR15 and refit
Keep your fingers crossed for me
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Well you're lucky to be alive landroversforever if the guy at Paddocks is to be believed.
I honestly can't understand why there is a difference though, but I've sorted mine now anyway 'just in case' and thanks for the advice chaps.
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Hello guys,
I've finally got around to fitting the 2mtrs of cargo track I've had in the garage loft for about 5 years but I'm not sure where to fit it.
I have a truck cab similar to Retroanaconda by the sounds of it (he's a man of good taste obviously)
Also, I have MobileStorageSystems chest and drawer filling the floor so I have a flat load space in the back.
I was thinking of fitting it front-to-back and tucking the track about a couple of inches from the sides. But I wonder how practical that will be and perhaps it should be closer to the edge of the wheel arch boxes which I think I've seen in a photo somewhere.
Has anyone fitted it in a Landy without seats in the back and if so where and why.
Cheers chaps
IanB
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Hello guys,
I've put the Landy back on its wheels after a hard 6 months work sorting out the chassis and brakes only to find the tyres need some air.
But the tyres were bought before I converted it to a mohair truck cab roof so I'm after advice on tyre pressures - probably from those of you with truck cabs.
I have BFG Trac Edge 235 85 R16 on steel modulars.
I've set the tyres to 30psi front and 25psi rear because of the lack of weight at the back. Am I somewhere in the right ballpark?
Thanks
IanB
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OK thanks guys. Its all put back together now and its nice to have the peace of mind from your comments.
Cheers
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Comparing caliper photos it seems I have RTC4998/9 as my bleed valve is next to the body clamp bolts and the piston bodies dont have the shape that looks like it follows the pistons.
So the pads I have in (with holes) are correct but I need a new pad retaining set as the springs are missing.
Would this explain why I sometimes get a 'clack' when I brake?
I've just discovered one rotor has bits missing out of the braking face, so I'll order a pad retaining set with the new rotors.
cheers guys.
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Oooo, thats interesting Retroanaconda, because I have THEEXMOD type pads but I don't have springs on the pins
So thats one wrong thing then.
Off now to have a look at calipers. Ta.
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Guys,
This is just something thats eating at me, so I'd appreciate your input.
I removed front pads from my 1987 Ninety which were the type which has holes in the backplate and solid pins.
From I don't know where I had a set of the type without the holes and with a tab in the middle of where the holes would be and split pin retaining pins.
The tab version box states they are for a 90 and fitted nicely and if anything better than what I'd taken out.
I put the difference down to LR changes and thought nothing of it until a guy at Paddock was taking to someone else about different pads for different axles. I got into the conversation and was told the tab version would be dangerous on my truck, so I bought new pads with holes/solid pins and replaced them.
But how do I know for certain which type really should be in my calipers?
Cheers gents.
Ian
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I need your help guys.
I converted my landy to a truck cab. Part of the conversion was to change the rear door, which is side hinged and doesn't have the runners or fitting points for the metal check bar and its lever release.
There is just the 2 bolts for the bottom hinge which come through the frame and the Pivot bracket (MXC2047) inside the tub which the metal check bar would have fitted into.
I have never fitted a replacement check bar/strap because I can't come up with an alternative idea which utilises these two anchor points and doesn't involve modifying the rear door - which I'm not going to do.
So do any of you whizzes have an idea for a check strap.
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I've got a draper syringe, think its got half a litre capacity, similar to this one
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Oil-Syringe-with-200mm-Suction-Tube-Sealey-AK46
Yep, I've got one of these too and its a fab piece of kit.
Helped me change the oil in my LT77 in the TVR and the diff as well.
No problem with drips. It makes the whole thing so much cleaner, and god knows it needs to because the ATF stuff stinks.
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Hey guys,
I was drifting the seal into the back of my new swivel last night when I noticed a chip in the teflon coating on the inner edge but outside of the seal.
Its not in a place where anything moves, being next to the driveshaft seal.
I think it will be fine but I got to thinking what if the teflon comes off or is corroded by the oils inside.
Am I worrying unduly?
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Morning all,
Last week I fitted a new pair of Bearmach shoes to my 1987 Ninety.
I had to modify the shoe with the pin for the upper spring as the pin was slightly misaligned and it fouled the adjustment snail cam, causing the shoe to lock against the cam when the hub was locked down.
It took the best part of 3 hours to find/fix that, so when I went to do the other side yesterday I knew what might happen.
Only yesterday I couldn't take enough off the spring pin without potentially compromising its strength, so I had to put the old shoes back on.
They are good enough, I only bought new shoes while I was buying new drums so its no panic
I know I have new shoes one side and old ones the other but both side have new drums so they are all bedding in anyway.
Anyway, to my question.
Are there 2 types of shoes with fractionally different spring pin locations, or are Bearmach now producing carp?
I ask because its been a long time since I worked on the Landy and I'm sure Bearmach used to be a decent name.
Thanks
IanB
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Dimensions of the REAR retainer are
25mm wide
146mm long
3.5mm thick
Hole dia 11mm
Hole centres 70mm apart
One hole centre is 39mm from the end which is bent down 2mm (see below)
To exagerate it, the bar is this shape
.. ______/
../
Ignore the dots, they allowed me to make the shape.
The left edge is bent down 2mm
The right edge is bent up 6mm
The bends are a single crease across the bar, just to the outside edge of the hole
I've checked the front and I don't appear to have lower spring retainers. The shock goes through the middle though so I guess this stops the spring popping out.
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I'll do it as the first job this morning fabsj
From memory there is a slight bend at one end. I'll see if I can measure that too.
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For what vehicle and what measurements.
I took the rear retainer off my '87 Ninety today and its sat on the bench if you want me to measure it.
I've also got a brand new spring seat if you need any measurements off that.
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Thanks for the answer about '4C' - as mine is indeed a 4 Cylinder thats all fine.
As mine was a panel van type I guess 90 4C Reg means I won't have problems with the softtop because nobody seems to properly understand the REG bit anyway, it could have originally been a Truck Cab or Panel Van as far as I can tell. I'll just need to mention it when I insure it (currently SORN'd)
I've been and checked the plate in the engine bay, it says
......2400
......5900
1 ... 1200
2 ... 1380
So I guess my 'real' revenue weight is 2400 and that should be put in box 22 on the V5
I might as well check the engine number while I'm at it, seeing as it had a new engine about 10 years ago but I can't remember if I told anyone
MOT time tomorrow
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Well, after fitting new low pressure fuel lines between the injectors she was back in for a retest this morning and passed.
In and out in 10 minutes flat.
I took a few pictures to celebrate the occasion and I'll post them up shortly in Members Vehicles Forum
My thanks to all those who have answered my daft questions and helped me get her through.