Ian Barrett
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Posts posted by Ian Barrett
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Should I go down in ratings then rather than up a bit ?
So where I couldn't find 12a use 10a instead, and with 17a use 15a instead ?
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Sorry if this has already been covered guys, I expected it to have been but I did a search for Glass Fuse and have read through 3 pages of results without finding the answer.
I blew a fuse fitting and testing a lighter socket in my Ninety then discovered I didn't have a single spare glass fuse.
So this weekend I pulled off the fusebox cover and bought spares for every variation from a local shop.
But when I just pulled the 12a fuse for the horn etc it says on it 12 amps continuous LUCAS 25A
So, are my new fuses correctly rated or should they have 2 values - because they don't.
Incidentally, I couldn't get 12a or 17a so I have gone up to 15a and 20a respectively anyway.
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Brilliant piece of work. I'm torn on whether it looks out of place or not. Its probably not and just the pictures that don't do it justice.
10/10 for effort though.
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Such a sad thing to see. Hope the insurance is some small consolation for your loss.
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But in particularly cold weather it will be pulling cold air through a cold radiator and shoving it over the engine won't it.
So if the engine isn't under strain isn't it possible it won't actually get fully up to temp because of this?
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Then surely your thermostat is duff....?
Or perhaps he still has the viscous fan?
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I can vouch that dirtyninetys method works on cordless drill batteries
I tried it after I'd already bought a couple of new batteries so I had nothing to lose, and now can only tell which is the newer because of the scratches.Don't know if I'd be brave enough to give it a go on a car battery though because there is a lot more stuff to explode all over you.
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Try this trick I used successfully with my Odyssey metal jacketed battery.
Find yourself a thick piece of wood approx the same width as the bottom of the battery.
with said piece of wood give the base of the battery a half a dozen good hard slaps.
Make sure they are slaps rather than a corner digging in to avoid the risk of damaging the case of the battery.
Charge the battery and see what happens.
One odd thing I've also read, and have to admit to not understanding but it does seem to apply is not to charge a battery on a concrete floor.
So when you're finished slapping the backside out of the battery sit it on the piece of wood you just used when you charge it.
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Sounds like your guess about the caliper being the wrong side is correct.
You'll never get all the air out if the bleed nipple is below the brake pipe - unless someone on here has an ingenious method for doing it - and it would be the cause of a soft pedal.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news and I hope you get it sorted out quickly.
What was wrong with the original caliper? I used the tech article on here and rebuilt mine in about half a day.
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I got Haynes Land Rover stuff - a mug and a Series IIa & III flask. Although mine is a Ninety I still love having Land Rover stuff for my travels.
I also got a TVRCC Griffith T-shirt so it was a proper toy shop Christmas for me ;-)
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I have a couple of shadow boards and a Halfords Pro chest and top box.
I hang all my favourite spanners on the shadow boards, along with other regularly used tools.
In my chest and box go things like screwdrivers, socket set and associated bits, head torch, odd spanners and what I call Precision stuff - where I also keep the hundreds of allen keys I seem to attract like a magnet.
My grinder sits in the bottom drawer of the tool chest.
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Blimey, you all woke up !!
Retroanaconda, it was a site you recommended previously which had manuals on which I was looking at yesterday and where I got the short hose part number above from.
Your setup in the picture looks very similar, except the hose in your picture which is directly behind the one with the blue clips on is I think the one which is connected to the brake servo over by the air filter.
The carb, air filter and associated hoses look the same otherwise.
An adapter ring sounds very plausible. I wonder if it was a bit more 'attached' in years gone by and not intentionally just an interference fit?
From memory the adapter ring (lets call it that for now) is chamfered inside. Its possible that once fitted nice and tight you wouldn't necessarily notice it was even there when you removed the rubber intake hose.
Its certainly a PITA to fit as the hose no longer wants to be friends with it. I suspect a new short bit of hose might be in order so we lose the memory effect.
If it were my vehicle I'd replace it with silicone, but I'm sure FG would have a fit if I told him he needed to spend £10 on 4" of silicone hose
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Everything is the same as yours Gazzar, just that the short rubber pipe - thats the part number I quoted above - isn't attached to the carb directly like I would have expected. Its attached to this converter thing which is just an interference fit.
I'd say it was a bodge too except for the quality of the converter thingy.
I think I'll have a word with him, remove it and see how it goes without it.
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I've had a look in the parts manuals I could find online and the bit I'm talking about is a connector/converter which is between the hose on the end of the air intake (part no 554418) and the top of the carb. But I can't find any such connector/converter in the manuals.
Does the small connector hose (554418) normally attach directly to the top of the carb with a jubilee clip? This is how I'd expect it to be or surely you will get air leaks.
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Guys,
I've been working on my farmer neighbours X reg petrol landy again tonight and replaced the rocker cover gasket as it was leaking at the front and the fan was throwing the oil all over the engine bay.
Farmer Geoff told me it has also been very difficult to start recently, whereas it normally starts on the button.
So I had a look at the carb and found the air hose connecting the air filter to the carb is attached to an aluminium ring which was then just a friction fit onto the top of the carb.
The friction isn't very tight so I suspect the carb was sucking in the oil making it difficult to start.
Is this friction ring the right way to connect the air hose to the carb?
Thanks for your continued help with sorting out this bag of nails!
Ian
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Put it on the off-side wing as per standard fit
Noooo, that looks all wrong IMHO - it looks too car like
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Guys,
Since removing the roof and fitting a canvas truck cab I've had no stereo as the speakers were in the headlining and the aerial mounted on the roof.
I was thoroughly bored sitting in traffic the other day so I've decided to reinstate the stereo
Speakers I can resolve with Pod or Shelf speakers sat behind the seats, but I can't think what to do with the aerial.
It struck me though that the hoops over the bulkhead might make a decent aerial.
or would it?
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FridgeFreezer, ejparrott and Retroanaconda thank you very much.
I now understand a TLS setup and although it doesn't look particularly complicated I can see how someone not familiar with it - such as maybe the guy at the tyre shop who did the £400 refurb - might have easily got something wrong.
I'll check all this looks correct tomorrow and report back on what I find.
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Thanks for the info guys, I couldn't believe brakes could be that bad so its good to know LR really didn't produce something this rubbish.
I'll check out the size of the brakes and if the servo is working and get back to you.
excuse my ignorance but what does TLS and SLS mean?
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Guys,
I took a neighbours X reg truck cab out for a spin today while looking for an engine oil leak, and on the way back I had to abort my left turn into his (very wide) drive and nearly ended up through his fence and into his garden.
The brakes he tells me have just been overhauled at a cost of £400 so I wonder if they are all like this or if his back street garage has done something silly.
there is a very firm pedal, but it seems to do hardly anything then until the rear brakes lock.
Its only 5 years older than my 90 but it feels very agricultural in comparison. Are the brakes really in a series really supposed to be as unforgiving as this or is there something I can quickly check?
Oh and please don't have me looking for hours, its pigging freezing and his heater doesn't work either.
. or his speedo
. or his dash lights
. or his screen washers
bloody cheapskate farmers [rolls eyes]
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Last week a spokesperson from Derby council said they were ready for winter by having grit etc and "volunteer 4x4 drivers"
Now I've found the 4x4 Response Network website but the Nottinghamshire link doesn't work and there is nothing for Derbyshire.
I live on the border of Leics/Derbys/Notts and wondered if anyone knew where I could volunteer my truck cab Land and me for winter duties.
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Mmmm, interesting. My Ninety was registered Feb 87 and the a search for the filler cap ref STC4072 looks exactly like the one I have.
I wonder if it makes a difference if its petrol or diesel?
Mine is a diseasel.
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I think I like it.
Sort of
I think.
But it isn't a Defender and shouldn't be called it.
They should have a bit of respect for the Defender name and retire it, giving the new car a different name.
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I insured my '87 Ninety with Footman James for about the same as James got his cover for.
Mine isn't quite so modified, but I did have one company hike the price of their quote when they found out I'd converted it to a soft top.
So good on FJ for having a pragmatic and sensible approach, I hope it brings them more business.
I tried it after I'd already bought a couple of new batteries so I had nothing to lose, and now can only tell which is the newer because of the scratches.
Blown Bulb - or is it
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I thought I'd share my latest little garage adventure with you, because its too ruddy stupid for words.
Last weekend I noticed my offside side light bulb had gone.
Not a problem, I have a box full of various bulbs, I'll swap it on Monday.
So in the freezing cold on Monday I had to prise off the plastic lens. It was as if it had been glued in place but I know it wasn't because I put new front units a few years ago.
Anyway, after a fight I got the lense off eventually.
Next, I couldn't get the flaming bulb out.
I ended up having to break the bulb (which looked OK) and taking out the metal bit with pliers.
Now, what type of bulb is this. Oh great, I don't have one of these.
Before I jump to conclusions, I'll check for 12v to be sure it was the bulb.
Chuff me!! No 12v!!!
its got to come out so I can check the wiring. And the indicator and headlamp has to come out too so I can get in.
Indicator lens off, and the plastic backing plate falls apart into a dozen bits and I can't glue it back together.
So that means a trip to the local indie for a new one, and I'll get a side light too as thats all cracked.
Just need to pull the side and indicator out, drop the headlight out and I'm in.
Oh... great... its going to be one of those days is it.
I had to get the hairdryer out to warm up all the plastics so the stupid side/indicator units would pull out.
Does anyone else have a hairdryer in their garage. I don't even have any hair but have a 'rescued' hairdryer!!
Right, so everything is out and I'm at the wiring.
The voltage is bouncing around but its still about 11v so why doesn't the bulb light up?
I tested it all ends up, but couldn't make sense of what I was seeing.
In the end I resorted to getting a mate to come have a look at it because I was boggled.
11ish volts. Bulb on a flylead. Not a dickie.
Bulb checks OK
Test everything upside down and inside out.
Nothing.
I had to come in for dinner but couldn't settle so after dinner I'm back out.
Check the fuse.
Find my side light fuses are odd. One fuse controls just this offside front light and the other fuse runs everything else!
Fuse looks OK though.
Ran a wire from the fused side directly to the bulb.
Nothing
Ran a wire from the fused side of the other circuit.
Holy Hell - it works !!
Clean up the fuse contacts.
Nothing
Test the fuse
Its OK
Swap the fuses.
Christ, the problem moves!!!!
It seems I had a fuse which was hit and miss. It looks fine. Tests fine with my fuse tester, although its quite flickery.
But a new fuse has solved the problem.
So, one blown bulb,
I've ...
Replaced the side light unit
Replaced an indicator unit
Broken a good bulb
Bought 2 new bulbs
Had the headlight out twice
Had a 70 mile round trip to get parts (local place out of stock) - ooh, can you drop in at Ikea and buy my sister a dishwasher while you're passing darling !!!
Spent 2 days trying to find the problem in a garage with temps around 2C
AND FIXED IT IN 10 SECONDS BY REPLACING ONE 25p RUDDY FUSE !!!!!!!!!!!