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Ian Barrett

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Posts posted by Ian Barrett

    new engine mounts. Lots of vibration

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    I know this is a numpty question but I can't figure this one out.

    I changed my engine mounts and put in what look to be good quality OEM ones from LRSeries

    I swapped the mounts by jacking up the engine, loosening off the brackets and mounts, and gearbox mounts and wiggling the engine mounts out.

    Rebolt everything and drop the engine.

    I think the action of the jack pushed the engine back a bit though because I could feel a hose at the back of the engine which felt trapped.

    So I've loosened everything off and jacked up the engine which seemed to pull it forward.

    Then tightened up the gearbox mounts, tapped the engine brackets as far back toward the bulkhead as they will go and tightened them.

    Lowered the engine and tightened up the engine mounts.

    It look better and I can now get my hand down the back of the engine but I still have more vibration now than I had with the knackered engine mount.

    So have I done anything arse about face and shoved the engine out of position, or do I have to drive it a bit to let it bed in.

    I have checked the exhaust isn't touching the chassis btw but it isn't that sort of vibration.

    I can see the bonnet vibrating, which it never used to do. Its a much deeper vibration rather than the tinny buzz you get from the exhaust.

    The Man Cave

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    The little roller shutters on the windows are a brilliant idea. I'm in the process of fitting a roller shutter main door to my garage and was wondering what to do about the window.

    You've done a very tidy job which makes me ashamed I haven't yet finished moving from my old house garage into my new one despite having a massive boarded out loft.

    I really need to get my finger out.

    Upgraded oil cooler & PAS hoses 2.5td

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Morning,

    After replacing an engine mount which had practically turned to jelly because of the steady drips of oil and PAS fluid leaking from the hoses sitting above it I've decided it really is time to do something about some of the leaks. Notice the word SOME - well it is a Land Rover after all !!

    My policy is Don't Replace - Upgrade and I have already fitted braided hoses to the brakes.

    So has anyone come across an upgrade to these pipes

    Block to Oil Cooler (radiator) flow and return (NRC8507 & NRC8508)

    PAS reservoir to pump flow and return - does anyone know the NRC code for these for a 2.5td 19j engine?

    Or if anyone has old versions of these kicking about "just in case" I am happy to get Pirtek or similar to make them up for me if you can get internal diameter measurements for me.

    Thanks guys,

    IanB

    MudStuff Door Handles

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Morning All,

    At Donnington I bought a pair of Mud (Mudstuff?) door handles on a bit of a whim.

    I've fitted the drivers side handle but I'm not so sure about it.

    I'm guessing I'm not the only one with these so is this feeling just because its something very different to what I'm used to or should I perhaps have cut the nylon a bit to make it feel more like a door handle than a shopping bag handle.

    I left the handle as it came out of the bag - with 4" of nylon strap either side of the rubber handle.

    Thanks

    IanB

    rear door latch cover

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Yessir, thats the thing Ralph, MRC9006.

    I could do without it but it keeps things nice and tidy, and with mine being a tin-top converted to a truck cab that catch is something it would be easy to catch your boot laces on and go head first straight off the back of the landy. That's a bloody long way down.

    I'll remove it from the truck tonight and have a word with the welding guys tomorrow. See what they can make for me.

    I don't suppose X-Eng might be interested? X-BootLaces or X-notheadfirst perhaps?

    rear door latch cover

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Morning.

    On the rear tub on my Ninety there is a plastic cover over the door latch - I'm guessing its there to stop it grabbing your belt loops or something as you get in/out.

    Its plastic though and I've broken one and cracked its replacement already.

    Does anyone make these? Something in Aluminium would be nice.

    If not, I'm taking my SS exhaust downpipe to a welding specialist this week to weld the block bracket back on. If there isn't one 'off-the-shelf' I'll take the plastic one and ask them if they can fabricate one. It doesn't exactly look complicated but my Ali welding certainly isn't up to it.

    Thanks

    IanB

    Ninety door seals - not the usual questions !

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Evening all.

    With Donnington 4x4 show looming I'm making my shopping list.

    One thing I THINK I need are new door seals because I just can't get the doors to close as nicely as I want and be waterproof/draughtproof.

    I know draughtproof is pushing it a bit but I'm getting tired of sitting on a wet seat.

    I say I think I need new seals only because I've done a few changes to my truck and don't know if the problem is the doors - which I know the bottoms of both are knackered, or the hoop replacement being misaligned - which is a big chunky think now not the farty LR items, or just the seals being knackered.

    I actually suspect its a bit of all three.

    So, to my question (at last)

    I've noticed the seals on both doors have a solid bit inside the seal at the body curve by the handle and this is stopping me getting the doors to close tightly.

    Is this standard?

    I have already replaced the seals once, but for the life of me I will never remember if they were originals or copies.

    thanks for your help guys.

    IanB

    19j mileage

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    85k on mine before it snapped the crank, ripped out the journals and completely destroyed the bottom end.

    BUT

    It really depends how it was treated in its very early life.

    I change oil regularly on all my cars but the garage said the damage was done early in its life and it was just a ticking bomb.

    The first owner was a farmer, so it probably never saw an oil change once out of warranty.

    And as you can see from the posts above, you really can't tell how long an engine is going to last.

    One thing though, once warmed these engines seem to thrive on being driven like a petrol engine not a diesel - ie, give it revs

    And lets face it, dropping in a 200/300tdi is a relatively cheap option these days.

    Drive it, change its oil regularly and let destiny run its course.

    Plastic PAS reservoir?

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Mornin'

    After a rare day off-roading in my 1986 Ninety (I was the truck cab with tonneau at Offroad For Olive at Stainby) I had PAS fluid all over the offside inner wing and have a dink in the lip of the reservoir which would stop the lid sealing.

    I think the solution is to replace the metal reservoir with the later plastic one, I always hated the flakey tin thing anyway, but I need to be sure the capacity is OK because the plastic one looks considerably smaller than the metal one I have now.

    Is this an OK mod and does the plastic one seal better or should I just get a replacement metal reservoir - or something else?

    Also, the fluid was quite hot by lunchtime. Is this normal?

    I've had the truck 17 years but done very little miles in her in the last 10yrs. She is a bit of a garage queen if I'm honest. But I was surprised how well she did offroad and have a mate with a recently bought Series3 and we are both hooked, so I need to sort this out and do it better than standard if possible. I won't have that ruddy old heap showing me up :o

    I'm gong to have to bleed the entire system. Does anyone have any tips for doing this?

    Thanks

    IanB

    Rear trailing arm

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Are these traditional metalastic bushes with a metal outer, rubber then metal inner sleeve?

    I've had enough of these bloody things to last me a lifetime, having just changed one on the diff of my TVR so if it's one of them can I get a polybush to replace it?

    Rear trailing arm

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Evening all.

    I was swinging around under my Ninety and found my rear trailling arms have movement at the axle end.

    Both have side to side movement and one has vertical movement.

    I suppose I can squeeze the brackets by tightening the bolts to get rid of the sideways movement but does the vertical movement mean wear on the bush which needs replacing or a worn out bolt or something else?

    I'll pull the arm off tomorrow anyway, I just wonder what to inspect closest.

    Defender soft top installation instructions

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Aaaaah, now I get you Natas!

    The holes aren't in either the new bracket or the windscreen rail are they?

    Yep, that sounds like a perfectly good plan. Go for it and good luck.

    Btw, have you just taken off a hard roof?

    Boy will you notice the difference if you have. Mine is the old 2.5td and the old girl flies thanks to getting the weight of the roof and door off her back!

    Defender soft top installation instructions

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Yep. That all sounds the same as mine, or similar at least.

    Here is the kit I bought, and there are some pictures which might help, but don't get your hopes up too much.

    http://www.trakkers.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1134&category_id=60&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=3

    I don't honestly understand why you are having a problem. But it's probably me being thick and assuming too much so I'll explain it a bit better

    Put the new header rail bracket on top of the windscreen rail. I guess you know which way is out?

    Line it up so the front edge of the bracket is just slightly behind the top edge of the windscreen rail - mine is just a couple of mm in at the outside and iabout 5mm in on the inside. So that makes the new bracket roughly 7mm narrower than the windscreen rail.

    Get the centre line of the bracket iin the middle of the windscreen rail and that is where it lives. Unless your bracket is substantially different to mine.

    The holes are for cam bolts.

    The slots are for the tie down tails off your fabric roof.

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