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Ian Barrett

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Posts posted by Ian Barrett

  1. Morning all.

    After reading this thread I got to thinking about how my 2.5td is taking longer to start. I was up holding the plugs for 30 seconds before starting. I was inspired enough to buy new Bearmach glow plugs which I played with last night.

    My old plugs - which from memory were from Land Rover but donkeys years ago - were bench tested against the Bearmach ones using a battery.
    The old ones heated up from the middle and after 30 seconds the whole of the last inch of the plug was bright orange.
    The Bearmach plugs got yellow hot at the very end of the tip within 10 seconds.

    I am optimistic I've improved things with the new plugs., so thanks for the inspiration.

    Now to a question for you;
    Out of curiosity, I checked the voltage on the newly fitted plugs and found I was getting between 9.6 and 9.8 volts to the plug tops when I turned the key.
    Should this be higher?

  2. 55 - god almighty.

    Does it feel like it's run out of oomph or that it's hitting a wall and should have more to give.

    Does it accelerate ok or struggle?

    Have you disconnected the air filter and run without it. It would disprove the filter or collapsing pipe work

    As a bit of a radical thought, ditch the roof and fit a tilt, or get more radical and fit a truck cab roof in mohair

    I've done the latter and my 2.5td will cruise all day at 65 and happily spin to 75 to overtake.

    I have to admit though, you need to be committed to owning a fabric roof because it's going to cost a lot more than the price of ditching the 2.5td and dropping in a 200tdi, especially if you are able to do the engine transplant yourself.

  3. Hello chaps,

    I bought one of the LED light group buy work lamps and am looking for ideas for mounting it.

    I want the work lamp for the back of my truck cab but want to be able to unclip it and point it outside of the Landy if I want to change a wheel or if i drop something for instance.

    The light has a typical U shaped bracket with a hole in the bottom of the U for bolting it to whatever.

    Has anyone ideas of a quick release system?

    Thanks

    IanB

  4. Hi Boris

    3rd time of answering this thread. Ruddy work Internet [grrrrr]

    I don't think you'd be bending these. They are about 3" tubing all welded together.
    I've been out and found a label for you.
    http://www.purelymetal.co.uk
    Tel 01728 621226

    Their website doesn't tell you anything about the hood stick kit, but there is a photo in the automotive section.
    I only have the truck cab section and the tub section would bolt to it if I wanted it. But as I have a Trakkers truck cab soft top it perfect for my needs.
    I have to be honest, I only bought it because it has a bracket for an inertia seat belt. My passengers do my head in trying to figure out and then moaning about the harnesses. So I'm looking to refit an inertia on the passenger side.

    The trouble is when I fitted it the curved sections over the door they were a tad long because of the bigger tube and wouldn't sit right. Which is why I questioned how it used to sit at the front. The front bolt should ensure its sat in the right place, but I just don't recall the over the door panel sitting under the plate over the windscreen, but it's possible it did. I also seem to remember removing some foam padding when I sent it for powder coating, I think this stopped it squeaking. It squeaks like a bloody stuck pig now so it will have to come off for some padding or I will go mad.

  5. Here's a memory test for you soft top owners - unless someone wants to check for me that is

    I'm not certain that after replacing the weedy hoops with something much meatier that the long piece which is above the doors is now fitting correctly

    It bolts to the bulkhead and the curved bit sits onto the top of the screen frame.

    But does it tuck under the aluminium beam which clamps down onto the soft top or does it just butt up to it?

    Mine now tucks under but that just doesn't feel right.

  6. I have the SimonB kit and can't recommend it enough.

    My dash lights were completely rubbish because the plastic sockets on the back of the gauges had melted to the bulbs. My speedo was so dim I couldn't actually read it properly.

    Now I have fantastic dash lights. Not overly bright, but a nice green glow which is very easy to read.

    Just be careful breaking out the bit inside your gauge. I managed to bugger the fuel gauge because I was heavy handed. Take your time and softly softly if you get any bits inside. Especially on the fuel gauge. There is a wire in there not much thicker than a couple of hairs width so a bit of plastic flinging about in there damages it easily.

    But whatever you do, do it.

  7. My advice would be to split them. Its a shed load easier to replace the piston seals if they are split.

    Make sure you've depressed the pedal before pulling the caliper off to pop the piston out a bit. Its a bugger to pull sticking pistons out if you can't get hold of the outside edge and have to try to pull them out using something down the inside of the piston.

    Oh, and don't use Britpart seals. They are magnificent in their crapness.

  8. Guys I need your help urgently.

    I've had a problem with my 2.5TD positively pressurising the fuel tank.

    I replaced the fuel cap at the suggestion of Land Rover and it seemed to have fixed the problem because I did more than 3 00 miles yesterday and 2 fills without problem.

    But after just 20 miles today its done it again. And AGAIN I'm covered in diesel :rant:

    I'm off to France on Wednesday so I urgently need a boost diaphragm. But I can't flaming find one and the 12-year-old at the local indie suggested I buy the pump because he knew nothing about anything useful.

    Can someone either point me at one of these things, tell me the part number so I can get the local numpty to find it, or maybe sell one you keep as a spare - with bank transfer straight to you obviously.

    Otherwise, the Landy won't be going to Classic Le Mans after all :-(

    Thanks

    IanB

  9. I've got a Trakkers fabric truck cab fitted after removing the hard roof on my 90

    The quickest solution is to put harnesses in, and mine are attached to the bulkhead with a spreader plate behind the seats (which when you think about it should possibly be on the outside not the inside of the bulkhead)

    and it has passed numerous MOTs with the harnesses here.

    However, I reiterate what has been said above with respect to what a PITA they are.

    Once strapped in you can't even reach the handbrake for example.

    I've been looking for a solution to allow me to put inertia belts back in but can't find one as yet and even Trakkers don't have an answer for me. Both belt hoops linked to above fit to the tub cappings which don't work for me because of the truck cab.

    I'm thinking of contacting Safety Devices to see if I can get the bulkhead hoops only from them as they are more substantial and don't rely on body cappings for fitting.

  10. OK, another daft question for those of you with hooks fitted.

    I've found 2 different types

    The one I linked to above

    ROPE HOOK BODY SIDE ALL LAND ROVER

    http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rover-defender/defender-90-and-110/parts/hoods-and-hood-sticks/301328-rope-hook-body-side-all-land-rover-.html

    And this one called

    ROPE HOOK REAR U SHAPE

    http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rover-defender/defender-90-and-110/parts/hoods-and-hood-sticks/345699-rope-hook-rear-u-shape-.html

    Do you have both these parts - ie. the flat ones down the sides and the rounded horseshoe shaped ones at the back

    What is on the rear door?

    And would anyone care so speculate on why there are 2 different types.

    Ta.

    IanB

  11. Righto, looks like mcc1979ian is sort of in line with my thinking.

    The Trakker tonneau has the bit above the door latched in place with the plastic click-together fasteners. I think I'll buy but not fit yet the 3 hooks for the back door and see how it goes.

    So thats 6 for the sides and 5 for the back. 11 in total.

    Better get on the Craddocks in the morning. The tonneau will be back with me early next week and I need to be ready to fit it immediately as I leave for Le Mans Classic in the old girl next Wed.

  12. Evening chaps.

    I'm about to fit a Trakkers tonneau cover to the rear tub of my 90 but as it started life as a hard top I have no rope hooks.

    And I'm looking at buying these rope hooks http://www.johncradd...and-rover-.html

    So can someone tell me how many rope hooks you have down each side of the tub.

    Also

    The tonneau comes with mini bungees, which fit between 2 eyelets.

    There are 10 eyelets down each side

    At the back there are also 10 eyelets: 2 for the panel to the left of the door, 6 across the door, and 2 to the right of the door.

    30 eyelets / 15 bungee ropes in total.

    That would mean if I wanted to fit the bungees to every eyelet I'd need 5 'rope hooks' per side and 5 at the rear.

    Logically, I would have just fitted bungees to each pair of eyelets and fitted rope hooks to correspond with each bungee - a total of 15 rope hooks (5 down each side, 2 on the panels at the side of the door, 3 on the door)

    But Trakkers only supplied 13 bungee ropes and when I asked about this they told me they don't expect people to use every eyelet - they are just there for flexibility as LR were a bit haphazard where they fitted the body rope hooks.

    I'm thinking about fitting as follows

    3 on each side - I can add 2 more in the gaps if I need to.

    2 at the back - on the panels either side of the door

    0 on the back door. I might have to revisit this but the side-opening half door is so neat it seems a shame to spoil it if I don't have to.

    Does this sound sensible or do I risk having the tonneau tear off at the heady 60mph I can get up to with a following wind and down a big hill.

    Ta.

  13. Thanks for the reply Western.

    Without wishing to get on your nerves can I push this a bit.

    I've looked on the link you gave and for an 88" Axle Suffix E onwards the parts we should be looking for are [3] NRC3891 / NRC3892

    if I read the manual correctly that is.

    But a google search of NRC3892 brings up links for a the diesel variant.

    NRC3892, bottom spring plate lh front series 3 88 inch diesel axle suffix e onwards for Series 3 - on the John Craddock website

    The only other obvious option from that parts manual is item [1] [2] 624079 / 624080

    but a google of that brings up 624079. Land Rover. 88" and 109" L/H Front Spring Plate for 4 cyl Diesel, 6 cyl Petrol and V8 Petrol engine models fitted with 11 Leaf Spring. - on JohnRichardSurplus

    or

    624079, spring plate front lh diesel and 2.6 for Series 3 on the John Craddock website.

    So we're damned confused and looking at a possible 3hr round trip to Paddock if we can't get to the bottom of this.

    Thanks for your help so far. I really do appreciate it.

    IanB

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