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Fish13

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    hugofisher@hotmail.com
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    landyfish13

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  • Location
    New Plymouth, Taranaki, New Zealand

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  • Interests
    Surfing and searching for a classic Rangie....

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  1. Thanks Paintman, do you mean the thermotime switch or the coolant temperature sensor?
  2. Hi guys, sorry have been offshore for a while. I tried Paintman's test. Plugs were dry, BUT the no. 1 cylinder spark plug was still brand new with no soot at all. So, took the plug out and connected it to the lead and cranked to see if it fired and it did, so nothing was wrong with the plug. I also swapped 1 with 7 and no change. I replaced the plug and pulled the lead off while engine was running and it didn't change note at all, whereas other ones did. So, my guess is fuel injector, or wiring to the fuel injector for no.1 cylinder? How can I test this? I can put injector cleaner in the tank and run that through, but because it ran fine before and now doesn't seem to be working, would it point to the wiring instead? What am I looking for there, is there a resistance reading or similar that I should look for? Narrowed it down I hope - still need help though, so please keep suggestions coming! Cheers, Fish.
  3. Hi gents, Many thanks for the replies - I tested the coolant temp sensor, plugs were ok, went round and double checked injectors and sensors were tight and located correctly. Tried your test Paintman, no difference to start-up. However, this morning, I took out the cold start injector from the plenum (took out assembly with injector still attached to harness) and when engine had been left overnight gave it a crank and no fuel whatsoever came out - could this be the culprit? Seems to fit the problem, but does the cold start injector really influence the start-up so much that engine would barely cough on 2-3 cylinders before evetually cranking up to speed on all 8? Hope this is it - if it is, I'm wondering why it worked fine before I took heads off and now doesn't? Cheers, Fish.
  4. Hi guys, Just finished the head gaskets on my 1988 3.5 EFi. Have had the timing checked and all is well there. Put it all back together, ran it and it was fine, put it in the garage overnight and went to start the next morning and it started (eventually) on about 2-3 cylinders and took a while before it coughed into life on all 8. Once running it's great, but left it for another few hours and went to start it again and same thing? Can someone shed any light on what's happened? It was starting fine etc before - it was only leaking water! Cheers in advance, Fish.
  5. Thanks Nige - what about the rotor arm query, can you clarify that for me? Cheers, Fish.
  6. That's exactly what I was after thanks Nige. If I'm 180 degrees out, will engine run? Or just run like a bag of spanners? When I've got top dead centre on the engine, then put dizzy in (currently out of engine at the moment), where the rotor arm then points - I make plug lead no. 1 when I put the cap back on, is that right? Cheers! Fish.
  7. Hi Guys, Apologies for what may sound basic, but I know that the timing mark on a lot of Rangie's is far from accurate - how can you find top dead centre (for numpties) please? I had the dizzy out and it moved so now have to find TDC on the rangie and put the dizzy back in with the rotor arm pointing to lead no. 1 correct? It's a 3.5 in a 1988 EFi. Cheers for the help!
  8. Thanks for the help guys, looks like it's a 3.5. Cheers, Fish.
  9. Folks, No discernable engine number... I'm measuring the bores of an 'unknown' block and need to know if the measurement of the bore (i.e. 94mm for a Rover V8 3.9) is excluding the cylinder liner, or taken from down inside the liner? The difference between measuring from the outside edges of the cylinder liner side to side and measuring from down the bore inside the liner side to side is about the same difference in measurement of a 3.5 (88.9mm) to a 3.9 (94mm)! Please help. Cheers, Fish.
  10. Awesome, thanks guys, that's what I was hoping to hear! Cheers, Fish.
  11. Hi folks, Looking to swap a 3.9 EFi engine from a 1990 Rangie into my 3.5 EFi 1988 model. I've got all engine, loom, afm, and ecu - but I've been told I need a charcoal cannister and a purge valve for engine to run on 1990 EFi system - is this correct? I'm quite keen for it to use the 3.9 EFi system if possible, rather than sticking the 3.5 EFi on it. Please confirm as I'll have to source these extra bits! Cheers, Fish.
  12. Thanks for the reply Steve, can you expand on how much 'a lot of work' is please? Alternator, serpentine belt, ecu and AFM are missing. Loom was cut at the engine unfortunately. Is it just not worth the hassle? Is the front of the block a different casting and therefore won't take the 3.5 front cover? No probs with my 3.5 inlet manifold and plenum, can swap over from current engine. Cheers for your help. Fish.
  13. Folks, Want to upgrade 3.5 Rangie to a 3.9 and a 1998 Disco 3.9 has come up but it has the serpentine belt system - what can/can't I use? If I want to stay on 3.5 flapper EFi, can I just swap front covers over and bung all my ancillaries on the 3.9 block and heads? Cheers, Hugo.
  14. Hi gents, reading this with interest as have an option of a longer stroke crank to take my 3.5L up to approx 4.5L - with no other mods, would this be too much BHP for the ZF 4 speed? (It's a 1988) The guy selling it has advised not to use with an auto box, and I guess he maybe right, but I thought I'd ask. Anyone know how much BHP a 4.5(ish)L Rover V8 would put out? I'd of thought they'd be able to take 225 at least? As per previous post? That surprised me Cheers, Fish.
  15. Thanks gents, Landybehr's link was the one I was looking for! I've got a 2" lift at present with 235/70 R16's on, but was wanting to go up to 32"s or 33" Simex/Insa Turbo's. Would check they fitted first before getting the cutting tools out, but wanted to read up on how it was done before hand. Many thanks!
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