disco_al
-
Posts
1,931 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by disco_al
-
-
i think the dash is different. that would be the simplest way, replace the whole lump, would also make removing all the airbag wiring easier too, as it'll be simple to get it through the bulkhead.
take it out in one piece rather than cutting it, then maybe flog it on ebay to recoup some of the costs of sourcing a non airbag dash. remember that the airbag ecu is under the centre console storage box too, and the crash sensors on the front panel below the battery. you'll also need a non airbag steering wheel too.
-
good on derbyshire but dont drive thru in a stripey shirt with womans tights on your head cos they will start asking about the carpets weave in your truck
or they'll ask where the party is......
-
and while your at it get yourself a Haynes manual for your disco as all the info you required is in there, plus lots more it's worth the money
.....then refer to Rave for the correct torque settings......
-
doors & door cards don't match the age, neither does the front rh wing with the snorkel on. it's got a disc rear axle as well (from what i can see) thus the wheels are wrong, and also the steering wheel is wrong for the age. engine is wrong as well, but then it's all bolt to gether stuff anyway, so could be a legit build up of newer parts
-
if you pm me your email address, i can send you a pdf of the 300 pump tuning instructions - used them myself and they are excellent
-
heater and indicators are separate circuits. the flasher relay is under the drivers side dash, tucked up by the steering column. not sure about the heater relay on a 200, although the motors are prone to failing
-
it's possible that you've got an electrical short causing problems. the indicators could be down to the high resistance from the bad connection on the trailer causing the flasher relay to overheat and play up. as for the heater, water can leak in through the scuttle panel under the wipers and end up ingressing the motor, causing problems, in some cases it has run down the wiring and affected the heater relay (under the glove box as well), causing intermittent problems.
-
Where are you? I have a Sumo bar track rod in the shed doing nothing.
according to his location, Sweden, so a bit of a way from here....
as an emergency get you home fix, bend it as straight as possible, and drive slower than normal, just in case, then replace as soon as you can
-
tbh tablets are going to be the way forward for in car installs now. i've got an acer w500 tab - and it's brilliant. there are some nice mounts available too, one in particular bolts to the seatbelt mount on a goose neck, which tbh is much more secure than the suction cup type i've seen.
-
I thought new regulations couldnt be applied to vehicles already on the road?
certain things cannot be applied to older cars ie airbag systems and cats to name a couple, but otherwise, if it's fitted, it's testable. at the end of it all, the MOT is designed to make sure a vehicle is roadworthy (on the day of the test only) and complies to a minimum set of standards.
count yourselves lucky it's not Japan, they have a test every 6 months, and that is tough, hence the large numbers of imported Jap spec cars with low mileage about, it's not uncommon for a car to fail it's test with only 20/30k on the clock over there, and be uneconomical to fix
-
and at that price why not buy chains?
especially when a pair of good quality chains is only about £40 or so - snow socks are only around the £50 a pair mark......best of luck to him though, lots of inventions started out small and became huge hits remember..............
he might want to change his ebay name though, badboy_borris does give a bit of a bad image (let alone his real name of Torquil???)
-
you are correct about the coopers - they are the discoverer st - same basic pattern as the bfg at's, and they are really good tyres. had them on my disco last winter, and they were fantastic in the snowy stuff - yet to find out what the bfg's are like.
-
To all our Northern members, take care out there over the next 24-48 hours in this rather extreme winter storm, gusts have been hitting 130mph in the areas around Fort William - so be careful and don't take any chances
-
would that be his serpentine belt come adrift........
don't worry, already got hat and on way out now.....
-
when was the fluid last changed? would be the first point of order - get some new MTF94, flush the old stuff out with a bit of fresh and refill - maybe change it again after 500 miles to make sure it's noce and clean.
also worth checking the detent springs (the ones under the gear stick gaitor) that hold the stick between 3rd & 5th, they can sometimes cause gear change issues too
-
In short I can replace my 90 rear solid discs for 110/130 vented with no additional parts required. Will the 110/130 rear pads fit the 90 callipers?
you will need to upgrade to vented calipers if you are going for vented discs, the standard ones won't fit.
-
If it's deemed OT then i apologise, although to be fair it should only contain LR inspired Xmas gifts......
so to start the ball rolling Maplin have got this http://www.maplin.co.uk/116-r-c-land-rover-defender-3for2-539275 on offer, not bad for 25 quid
-
found this http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/RelayingTheHeadlights.pdf while searching the interweb - excellent guide
-
Yep, visa has reduced their costs and increased ours.
vosa too.....
-
sounds possibly like it's the rings then. if you've done the valve stem seals, and head gasket that's the only other possibility really - compression test would tell for sure
-
sounds like the pump to me - common ish td5 problem
-
pressure pad underneath one wheel linked to either a security light or really loud siren??
-
Does anyone have a wiring diagram on how to use relays to supply power to the headlights? Aux lights are easy to sort out, but i'm a bit confuddled when it comes to using them for the headlights ie dip/main do they need separate relays, or can i use a changeover relay instead?
-
Jeep Cherokee XJ: Cheap and come with a rear locker, but are they really as c##p as people make out?
yes
Disco 1 / Range Rover Classic: having had these as my last two trucks means I know they'll fit the bill and what I can get for a low budget. I just feel I've been there, done that and want a change! A RRC with Tdi could tempt me thoughfinding a rot free one for your budget will be fun
Toyota Surf: Seem difficult to modify beyond the very mild. I'd love to stuff some Landcruiser 80 series axles uder one, but don't have the time or money.suffer badly from cracked heads, plus side is parts are fairly easy to get hold of
another option would be a vitara lwb, pretty capable and cheap ish to run - find one with the peugeot engine and there good on fuel too
"proper" wiring diagram for a discovery needed please
in International Forum
Posted
easier to follow than the haynes colouring book though, with the proper wire colours and also pictures for the conectors and the locations as well all linked by code numbers