robhybrid
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Posts posted by robhybrid
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what size tyre and how aggressive is it?
205/16 and the britpart does the job
gkn better on 31/10.50/15 and driven carefully 33/12.50/15
Ashcroft for aggressive use on 33/12.50/15 and respected use with 35/11.50/15
If you go bigger on tyre size the ashcroft warranty in theory would be void.
You would have to look at a different axle set up.
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I would think you would shake the trailer to bits taking it overland the axle is welded to the chassis with two blocks, the single axle would struggle with all the movement and large ground jolts. Despite all my reading, It surprised me how much of a beating a trailer takes off road I would say at least double the vibrations of the Landy. I thought the Sankey was over constructed but after last year I would say it is up to the job. With that in mind I would say this is not.
Jason.
Fair play answer with clarification/justification
I don't like forums being used to constantly bash other peoples efforts.
Constructive criticism that gives justification and sensible usable guidance to improvement makes for a far nicer environment. :-)
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I thought it looked ok, a proper trailer axle has been used, from the photos it looks like someone has thought about what strengthening is needed and where.
Something like this should be looked at in person before you can make a fair comment.
I have seen companys selling overland trailers that are in worse condition than this.
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As you cant press a clutch to change in and out of overdrive if the main transmition is auto wouldn't that be a problem? I dont think you are ment to use overdrive in first and scond gear?
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Looks like he was working for a landrover drive train resach and development team?
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I will happily drive across my own wet field with a simex type tyre fitted confident I am not going to slide or be spinning which makes a mess/damage.
but the simex type tyre would make far more mess if you were to get stuck.
solution only allow dry weather road tyres then idiots wont get any further than the gateway. :-)
Should you be on the green lane in the first place if you need a tyre as aggressive as a simex to have the grip to drive it with minimal damage?
So unless you are a farmer or off road competitor why do you need anything more aggresive than an AT type tyre?
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has anyone had a close look at jcb telehandler axles?
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my farther claims he can tell the difference in how his car handles with a 2 psi variation in pressure personally i have been guilty of not noticing a 10psi difference in my tire pressures. on my road vehicle I tend to over inflate my tires compared to spec and my winch challenge vehicle
depending on conditions can be seen running on flat tires.
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I have swapped manifolds between 200 and 300
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I have broken std landcruiser 80 front cvs on a road car with 33" tyres so as std spec I dont rate the cvs to be much better than aeu2522? but the hd 80 series replacements are believed to be as strong if not stronger than ashcroft and possibly cheaper.
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I saw it on Pirate, and it looks very good. They wondered why we brits wanted landy casings, but understood the argument of simplicity and number of S/H units. I recon it will be a good seller.
However, I think there is a very good case for an epicyclic hub kit. I wonder if it's their next project?
both gwyn lewis and myself think that epicyclic hub kits are where people should go as tyre sizes get bigger.
all the drive line would not need to be beefed up as the gear reduction would be exactly where you need it.
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Nige give Gwyn Lewis a ring on Monday morning he bought a job lot of returns a couple of months ago, He might have some spare parts.
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the paintman he's been going for years and I have found him very helpful,
To some extent you have to remember you get what you pay for, a mate of mine has recently resprayed his b reg 90 and the paint alone (metallic burgundy)cost him over £250. I cant remember weather this was 2.5litres with hardener and clear-coat.
I am no good at spraying and only ever consider my paint jobs to be agricultural spec. put my guess is that the paint appears to be to thick in one go, possibly due to lack of enough thinners?
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have you ever tried attaching a multimeter(set to voltmeter) on the positive line i.e black at battery + and red at the alternator +,
I guess in your case it would have read 0.5 V when you would be looking for 0.1V or less.
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I swapped the whole gubbins out of a series 109 rear axle into a 110 rear axle a few years ago, I even made my own spreader bars to aid moving the bearings to get somewhere near the right back lash.
I think? the only complication was setting the pinion height as They are set by a collapsable spacer? on salisbury axles.
Worked fine for a short while before I changed to rover axles and arb initially kam 4.7 then std 3.54 and underdrive.
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I towed a fully laden fire engine with a series 2A on the day I passed my driving test I took off like a scolded cat until the tow chain had took up all the slack, the back end of the landrover went air bone and I failed to move the fire engine. I had managed to bend a new rear cross member outwards by 3-4".
diffs were fine.
a couple of weeks later I managed to break a rear half shaft whilst being cruel changing gear.
The half shaft not only broke but twisted and jammed into the diff, I remember attaching a chain to the old shaft and driving off with a tractor to remove the old shaft. It still took several attempts with the poor landrover being dragged sideways around the yard.
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In the past I have bought a recon gearbox from a so called gearbox specialist in Oswestry called L**** thankfully I believe they are no longer in business, the box I had from them failed within 6000 mile. the 3rd gear had split into 2 sections, outer teeth on one and inner spline on another, the firm only changes the gearbox for me after I got quite confrontational with them.
I have had a transfer box, cv joints shafts and an underdrive from Ashcroft, and I have had excellent service and wouldn't hesitate to use them again if the need arises.
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having seen this post and with a handful of old transfer boxes kicking around I fancy using a transfer box nose to make a remote drive line dog clutch on my future buggy.
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Sounds good Soren, plus with an auto, the box would just slip a bit to make up the difference I guess
Pretty promising if you ask me
if the box slips a bit so the winch speed will alter
like it though
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Good job will has got thick skin
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so when does the mean machine get its shake down king of the valleys is not long now.
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tell me about it I have a r380 disco box sat on the floor at the moment and I need a r380 defender one.
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I have converted a disco lt77 to defender lt77 but it was quite a job, I had to split the disco and dead defender box and use the selector forks of the defender box, took me best part of a day to do it.
My reason for doing this was, I had a izusu with a disco adapter plate and wanted to keep this and keep the long bell housing when fitting it into a defender.
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Gwyn lewis has been playing with steering pumps and found huge differences in operating pressures of several supposedly identical pumps.(300 tdi version)
Gwyn has also played with drilling one of the fittings that screws into the pump (200 tdi version) and found he could alter the flow rate, but if the hole was drilled too big the flow was impressive but even with a larger metal oil container and an in-line oil cooler fitted it was difficult to keep the oil temperature down.
gearbox whine and odd vibration
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I think if you mount an r380 into lt77 position your gear levers will be 2" out of line.Difference in prop lengths 200/300.
If the r380 is std you would be modifying/swapping engine bell housings to make it fit?
I think you could end up moving your engine forward some 8" or so? Will it interfere with power steering?
If you have a r380 stick it on e bay and use the money to get a guaranteed good lt77 that will go straight in without the hassle.
Or change engine box and prop shafts,gearbox tunnel, seat box, rad, exhaust system.
Where in wales are you?