robhybrid
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Posts posted by robhybrid
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My compressor wouldn't work when it was -5 and below I thought that there was ice in the air in and put up with no plasma cutter for a couple of days, works fine now.
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So you still believe that a formula one should be on the same grid as a touring car? The fact that Saley is in the same class as a challenge 90 shows that your regulations are fundamentaly flawed.
Daan
dosn't mean he will do any better though
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Class 2 it is then
But you get a prize for turning up in class 1
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You mean like an anti-dive/squat bar? In other words an anti-roll bar following along each chassis rail, then taking a turn and connecting to the outer edge of the axle, thereby inhibiting flex?
yes but only one anti-roll bar connecting roughly over the center of the axle, to allow articulation.
I think the bar would have to be pretty strong as it would be in my case proximately 92" long.with arms 1/2 chassis width so 18" ish.
I was wondering if I could use the suspension rod from a torsion bar suspension vehicle to do this job?
Has anyone ever done this? If so had it got any benefits?
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You're probably aware that most if not all trick diffs are stronger than a Rover 2 pin diff.
good point
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Something like a chassis, then?
not quite I'll see if I can draw a picture
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why is there not an option without the word terrano in it?
reliable engine????
Don't think you have had much experience with a nissan terrano
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Maybe it's just the angle, but this one looks great!
Anyone got more info on this one?
do you recon that this one is on air suspension and all the air bags are down in this picture?
would make it look better than otherwise?
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Rob, I thought that due to the fact that you were driving it like you stole it that you broke a diff or two and did come last
(boring car journey and I could not resist the open door)
Love you Rob (Gaffa)
come on thought I was mid field
looks like some people were having a foot stamping handbags at dawn day whilst they were writing a certain club Magazine
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another vote for winch upgrade If you must spend the money.
Horses for courses really.
If you were competing in comp safari I think I would encourage the use of a lsd.
For winch challenge sometimes you need good maneuverability, turning around in gated areas or turning in amongst trees/obstacles.
For this you are better with an open diff. So being able to switch it on and off becomes important.
If you already have one locking diff and you use your vehicle for winch challenge I am confident that (for winch challenge) the best place for your locking diff is in the front axle.
I would rather loose my rear locking diff than front during a winch competition.
Having a locked front diff whilst winching (forward) over obstacles in my experience can quite often more than double the speed I can get over the obstacle.
Both wheels drive lifting the vehicle rather than one wheel acting as an anchor and the other digging a hole.....
obviously mechanical sympathy must be a consideration.
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Some very good stuff here! One thing to think about Rob is coil overs allow you to have your cake and eat it: soft initial travel, firmer when the main dual rate slider hits the stops and nice and firm when the bump stops start working. I have also designed an anti roll system that shouldn't limit axle articulation. It isn't perfect - it won't work in the example you give when only one wheel is pointing down hill but it will make a huge differance on side slopes and higher speed cornering. Watch this space!
For now as funds are a limiting factor I have thoughts on using landrover springs Possibly lightest available v8 front?
and Gwyn Lewis challenge rear spring relocators with his peperpot spring retainers,
I am not sure about shocks but I do already have ome +5.5" shocks and had thoughts of mounting them at a steeper angle in towards the center of the chassis?(anybody remember the gone to far rear suspension setup?)
I might add a anti roll bar if I feel the need.
This is for a trials/winch challenge buggy not road use.....
Has anyone ever put a anti roll bar, front to rear axle? I could see it possibly helping with climbs and descents?
Si's shafts to a diff with locked pinion sounds interesting but space and weight? I have got a dead 4x4 quad bike front axle in amongst my scrap selection though. Would it force the front to travel equal to the rear? cab constantly mid point regardless? would the diff mounting have to be pretty substantial? quad bike diff strong enough?
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what Pikey and Gittins - your having a laugh! the only reason Pikeys wallet might be big is because it never opens for outgoing.
Sort of gettingto the issue of drive it like you stole it helped
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If not - I have a cunning plan! I have another type of joint in mind which should be pretty good in that application.
Si
give us a clue?
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I cut and paste the post above into word just so I could split it into paragraphs before reading one bit at a time.
Why couldn't you live in W rather than NSW
So as far as roll steer is concerned the right hand side picture from my previous post has got plus points albeit with a drop arm on the chassis end similar to the left hand picture (to flatten panhard rod angle)
As I will need to fabricate all my suspension mountings I cant see it being a problem to make a raised axle panhard rod mount (possibly at the expense of a little bit of panhard rod length)?
.bmp.jpg)
more like this?
as for the joint for the A frame I was thinking of using lr hockey stick style mounts at axle thus giving a little rubber bushing and at the chassis end making myself something like this :-
I have got thoughts of cutting up 2 50mm trailer hitches and welding plates to them so I can bolt 2 half's together to get something very similar, Yes I can use a welder, yes I can appreciate the safety implications.
does anybody know where I could purchase a joint like this cheaply otherwise?
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JST has one next March in Bridgnorth, Shropshire.
I like the idea of doing this one.
Just have to make a vehicle first, and coerce someone to come with me.
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Is that why you entered the 90 degree challenge or was that just selling your soul for the prize money?
I didnt expect to win at Mamby but was content co come mid field rather than bottom.
After being the butt of numerous comment from 2009 I had something to prove in 2010.
And believe to a fair extent he who has the largest wallet wins there.
As tends to be the case the more that speed is put into the equation.
Do you see the awdc xl challenge being a very similar format to Mamby?
Personally I really liked the format of howling wolf 2009.
I know you cant please all of the people all of the time.
My comments weren't meant to be a dig in any way sorry if they were.
I wish you all the best for the coming year and as I said before I would like to enter some events that don't involve me traveling too far.
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I don't intend on doing the series but fancy the odd one or two closest to me, personally I'm not up for timed events or I would have entered comp safari.
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Also, keeping the rollcentre of the front suspension lower than the rears increases roll stiffness as the 2 points are not in the same plane horizontally. Helps with handling onroad.
Hadn't thought of that but it makes sense.
There are a few good ideas coming through here.
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I am under the impression that lifting the panhard rod at the axle could possibly improve off road stability but I am keen to be proven otherwise?
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There are advantages with what you call reverse A suspension.
The issue with roll steer, as with any other style of suspension is to do with the slope of the suspension roll axis. The closer the suspension roll axis is to parallel with the road the less roll steer parallel or slightly down (1 or 2 degrees) is best.
The height of the panhard or watts link is one factor in the slope of the suspension roll axis - a panhard is no better or worse than watts link in regard to roll steer, it is all about where they are mounted height wise and how that affects the suspension roll axis.
I would like something a lot stronger than the standard X eng joint for a reverse A as you would only have one joint that has to more than the two used in normal rover rear suspension.
so from what you are saying have a look at my poor picture:-
would the panhard rod set up on the right be better than the pahard rod on the left due to it being mounted higher up on the axle?
steering not involved in this question.
I would guess the flatter the panhard rod the better also? i.e right hand side higher or left hand side lower.
got any tips for further reading (without frying my brain)
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Get over it. Don't invent excuses for badly balanced suspension - learn to read the situation better.
Go for balanced articulation that can be easily driven over obstacles that are more difficult than you could tackle with your poorly balanced suspension.
unfortunately when the red mist comes down reading the situation better goes out of the window at times.
Yes I have rolled my current truck once or twice.
I just thought if the front was a little tighter than the rear I might stop before I go too far.
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is there a way you could mount the pump body facing the radiator?
could you run a belt on an idler and then use the back of the belt?
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I had got fancies of putting my rear winch rope through a loop on the axle before exiting the rear fair lead.
hooked on to rear and pulled tight it would tighten up rear axle/limit travel,
whilst winching it would help keep rear axle from sinking in the gloop or from being pulled under it self?
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I know but I dont know of anyone willing to swap a set of ready to go mog or volvo axles and tires for my lr items
Seen some strange shaped panhad rods on other forums , is it so it will clear the chassis?
saw a couple of great pictures that proved pan had rod would allow more articulation without fouling body than wats linkage.
sumb portal axles
in International Forum
Posted
somebody on here has got some fitted to a range rover.
I looked at buying some a little while ago with the intention of grafting the drop boxes onto the end of series axles.
I couldn't buy the axles cheap enough to justify the experiment.
try doing a search for simca portal?