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About robhybrid

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    Tight Nuts

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  • Location
    Mid Wales

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Landrovers, Challenge events, laning, Welding fabrication, auto electrics.

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  1. I've searched here and couldn't quite find the answers I was looking for, but please post links if you think I've missed it. I'm fed up with the brakes on my 300 tdi defender 90 being useless. I changed to td5 110 vented fronts with new calipers and 110 rear calipers"with a slight mod" I've tried fitting a td5 abs model servo and master cylinder too without success. I've got a scrap disco2 I'm breaking and a discovery 300tdi that I'm breaking. could I fit the abs module from the discovery2 to my 90? and use the axles of the 300 tdi discovey? will the disco2 abs ecu be able to read 300tdi abs censors? Would I be able to fit the flywheel censor of the disco 2 for the ecu engine speed censor? or has someone made a module to convert alternator W sine wave onto suitable square wave for the ecu? I thought if I'm going to the effort of fitting ABS I may as well try and get the TC and hill decent to work as well. I've got axles sat here with upgraded internals and arb lockers but this is for my towing and work vehicle not an outright rip up the mud play toy. I don't mind the work involved and I don't see I have much expense as I have all the major components here in working order.
  2. the giggle pin ones look the same but are wired differently to gigglepin spec this is so it can be mounted onto the end of the winch motor without wires having to cross over each other.
  3. I always cut off the section that cranks out to make the sleeve, have a simple jig to transfer the measurement of new chassis extension to the original chassis. I think it's always best to try and keep as much of the original chassis as possible. I sleeve the join internally and try and make it that you cant see my repair, I do about 12, 90 rear cross-members a year I have a supplier of rear cross-members that fit well and look damn near original. The amount more they are than britpart is well worth it as I don't have to spend extra time making them fit.
  4. iI you want factory look I'd spend £70? at ashcroft and buy the adapter to fit your lt77 gear lever housing onto the r380 gearbox, use the disco front prop and get a 300 tdi rear prop. I have just done a 90 for my self, all the little bits to make it look original make it into a bigger and more expensive job than expected. I'd have been better off buying a complete donor defender rather than the disco I had.
  5. changed sender and added centre wire used britpart YBE100530G was vdo in the box. works a treat :-) now to work out why my fuel gauge is giving strange low readings.
  6. ages later.... Just getting round to doing this conversion on a vehicle of mine. Is the 300 discovery speedo sender the same as a td5 defender one? the discovery gearbox loom only uses 2 wires in the 3 pin plug.
  7. I had a K reg 200tdi disco the flanges were thin and the shafts were definitely 10 spline, flange thickness is a guide but not gospel.
  8. we had to use our hi lift as a winch as a part of a challanger comp we won as our hi lift was clean and in perfect working order and loads of them were gummed up with dirt I still would not recommend it though
  9. seen a few seized ever but have been able to wiggle them loose though, I think it happens more on vehicles that only potter about, i.e. where the waste gate doesn't get used often. I tend to think setting max boost to 15psi is best for reliability.
  10. spray both uj's on the steering column to the steering box with loads of wd40 or similar if this helps the steering take the column off and un-seize the uj's and oil liberally if there is wear consider replacing them,
  11. I wouldn't worry about using oil that had been stored for a long time. I would shake it before use as some oils have additives and I guess they could separate if standing for a long time. I have had a drum of engine oil that I ended up not using as it got water into it somehow? metal tins and condensation could be something to think about. If it's for a landrover I wouldn't worry about storage as it will get used soon enough :-)
  12. pic looks like a series lightweight hybrid. not a very complete rear cross member. I wander how they got on with insurance?
  13. Gwyn sells all parts individually as you need them
  14. when people say they don't need longer articulation because they have lockers they don't realize that using lockers in a situation where open diffs and better articulation would do the same job they are forcing their drive train to do double the amount of work. I believe that slightly firmer dislocating springs are more stable than long soft springs as the spring is not trying to push you over when you are on a slope. Remember articulation is not fully governed by the spring but has factors from the dampers(shocks) and suspension geometry not forgetting choice of bush.
  15. I regularly weld up landrovers and have found those that are regularly washed underneath even without adding any extra paint or rust prevention are in far better condition than those with rust preventative measures left with mud covering the chassis, I think a clean chassis gets wet and dries off, a muddy chassis gets wet and stays wet. I think moisture is a major requirement for either rust or electrolytic corrosion.
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