robhybrid
-
Posts
533 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by robhybrid
-
-
If I have done It right then a donation should be heading your way
-
I feel as if the other forum at the moment is Trev's forum rather than an indipendant forum.
I wil still pop over and lurk every now and then though.
I have met a proportion of the members of this forum and feel like it is a extended family.
I hope administration of this forum will not become too much of a burden for geoff.
Can mods/ admin give us some idea of how they curently bersive this forum going in the near future?
-
I have made 2 small 4 1/2 gal rear tanks to fit over each wheel arch in the back of a RR bob tail/pick up.
I made them from 1.6mm stees and put 2 baffles in each of them.
They had a triangular shape to the bottom of them so they would fit over the wheel arch on each side.
They were used for 2 years without problems.
I have also made one large 10 gal rectangular tank that fitted between the roll cage and rear tub bulkhead on a 88" hybrid and that is still going well 4 years on.
The large tank has fittings in the top for a pick up pipe and return, and the 2 small tanks had hydraulic fittings welded to the bottom for fuel pick up.
-
I am thinking of getting rid of a load of series spares (lwb) but I have to sort them out first.
are series alpine's the same as 90 if so then I have some.
-
I ran my front simex all day at slindon at 12 psi and evenwhen I rolled they did not come off the bead,
I have allso run them at 25psi and cought them against a tree stump and they have come off the bead.
What is the minimum pressure that the arb's require to engage?
there is a pressure switch itted on the side of the arb compressor could this be replaced with one of a lower value 30 psi ish.
-
The 90 is almost completely standard hard top and spends most of its time with only a Bass box speaker set up in the back.
-
My mate has a problem that his rear wheels wont even lock up when on grass.
The landrover is a early 300 tdi 90.
The rear discs were changed and good quality brake pads were fitted all round.
We have tried changing the brake bias valve for a new one and this did not alter the situation at all.
The brakes bleed easily without any problems so I dont think there is anything wrong with the pipes.
The rear calipers are in good condition and push back easily, the wheels will lock if they are in the air.
As far as I can see the next step is to change the brake master cylinder.
Has anybody got any other ideas that I might of missed?
Has anyone else had similar problems?
-
If you want to make your own stainless ones give Gwyn Lewis a ring he had a bag full of stainless links made up and wasnt going to bother making them up as the time taking polishing to sell them was prohibative.
-
The pic is of a lorry that used to be used in the week for transporting potatoes the Tomcat is Chris's from Kent.
The back doors wont quite shut with 2 vehicles on the lorry.
I have seen people turn up at Tommys with their vehicl in a tipper lorry.
So find a mate who has some form of haulage/hgv connections.
I have a disco to pull my trailer when I travel an distance now I just need a reliable trailer.
-
I had a winch about a year ago that had been standing for a long time and the brushes had become stuck in the brush holders due to rust.
I removed the brushes, cleaned the brush holders and re fited the brushes and things went much more motor like.
I have also had problems with connections on solenoids and solenoid failures but you can quite quickly eliminate them whilst fault finding by connecting direct to the motor with jump leads.
neg to motor chassis,
pos to either f1 or f2,
left over 2 terminals joined together (old spanner, strip of steel)
changing pos from f1 or f2 and your link will change direction.
-
If you are happy with thick cables and more expensive swithes and a slightly more limited range then I would do away with relays, in my experiance relays dont last very long if you are regularly dunking them in water.
I would recomend putting a fuse box as close as possible to your bettery/ power supply.
Thick cables rubbing on bodywork and arking tend to make a bit of a mess and smell funny.
If you cant put a fuse box close to your power supply consider putting a fuse link on the wire from the battery to the fuse box.
-
I highly recomend going for the 11.5 width option
that reminds me has anyone got any old rr rear shafts going spare
-
Gwyn lewis makes a couple of designs of dislocatrion cones wich I think work very well.
One of gwyns designs has a hook incorporated into its base which grabs the last coil of the spring if you start going for some extreeme articulation.
They are fitted to my truck so come and have a look at Tony's.
If you wand I can bring a spare set down with me.
Gwyn's design has a surprizingly simple design to allow you to hold the spring to the chassis when you need to lift a wheel in the air (to change it for example) whilst using a hi lift style jack.
I have looked at tyhe gone to far design and I am impressed with their their thinking appart from how you deliberately lift the axle up with a high lift.
-
so does anyone have any updates on the old site?
-
had a great day and eve bbq last time whilst I was biatch for will warn.
The event for me was a great fun event without too much pressure of competition.
I would like to take part this time but it does depend on weather(how badly I) I damage my truck at slindon with AWDC/scorpion racing challenge.
P.S. is there any chance the punch locations could be marked with something more clear than wood couloured pegs with green writing.
cheers.
-
Somebody asked on another well known forum are there anny issues regarding the fitting of a transfer box input gear?
The other day I had to remove a transfer box input gear and fit a new one which had good splines.
The transfer box box in question was a 1.22
When you remove the end cover and then the end plate with the bearing outer race on it the gear in question is then visible.
The gear appears to be loose but wil only pull out 1/2" or so then hits the teeth of the next gear.
There are two gears that appear very similar diamiter running on a shaft approximately in the middle of the transfer box.
The number of teeth on these gears are different to each other, so their teeth dont appear to line up with each other, making the input gear difficult to remove.
If you jack up one rear wheel (handbrake off wheels chocked) and slowly rotate it you will find that there is one section of the two gears in the middle of the transfer box that line up.
Once you have found the section where the two gears line up it is possible to remove the input gear.
Once the gear is removed I swapped the old bearings off the old gear onto the new gear as the bearing race outers have not been removed, I then re-fitt using either gasket or sealer depending on what was there previously, this I do to try and maintain the old/previous bearing pre load.
I am unsure how difficult/easy it is to set up the bearing pre load whilst the box is still on the vehicle so I try and leave it as close as it used to be.
I shall try and post some pictures in the next day or two.
-
I am happy with the pay pal idea,
I thing forcing people to pay (a nominal amount)to be able to use the clasified section is good.
Maybee a peyment reduction if your post gets put into the tecnical arcive?
-
I'm here too
like the clickable smiley thing 
I hope I have set up my details ok so far.
cv thingies
in International Forum
Posted
Do you know of anyone who has ever broke a so called weak 10 spline shaft when they have used a gkn strengthened version?
Gwyn has run them for years with 35" Simex and not broken one and as far as I am aware he has had one customer slightly damage one when another component broke but has never had one break.