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Posts posted by teabag
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On 6/15/2019 at 10:04 AM, neilc said:
Morning , im really sorry if this has been covered in the past however I couldn't find an answer
my Land rover series 3 is 39 years old , I am aware of the 40 year historic tax rule and the DVLA state that tax is rolling from point of registration,
My 40th year commences  in AUGUST 2019 and then it should be tax free , however does it need to have a current mot when 40 years kicks in?
My situation is this , My MOT expires in June 2019 , the Landy is 40 in August , can I sorn it for 2 months and then claim historic tax or does it need to be MOTD when the 40 years kicks in?
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I hope this makes sense.
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Thanks.
Neil.
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Yes to your question. No MOTÂ no tax unless MOT exempt.
You can apply to stop paying for vehicle tax if your vehicle was built before 1 January 1979. You must tax your vehicle even if you do not have to pay, Its automatic.
With the MOT exemption the vehicle has to be classified as Historic for that you have to apply to the DVLA, and certify the vehicle doesnât meet the âmodifiedâ criteria and of course the vehicle was first registered 40+ years ago.
Simples, I did both last year at the same time at my local Post Office for my classic car that was on a Sorn at the time so with out an MOTcert.
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1 hour ago, lol said:
I've been having a few overheating problems with my 3.9 v8 and I'm suspicious of waterpump impeller may become de attached or slip when warm
how can I tell other than removing?
The impeller has been known to break up, but very rare IÂ believe and then only on aftermarket market items.
A faulty viscous coupling for the fan will cause overheating.
Coolant flowing the heater is a good indication that the pump is ok, also maybe u can look/feel  inside after removing the bottom hose connection on the pump.
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On 6/8/2019 at 3:33 PM, discodave22 said:
i removed plastic side  panel in passenger foot well but couldn't see AlarmÂ
only found a headlamp relay and another(cant remember what for) and a yellow 4 pin relay but don't know what this one is forÂ
Teabag- what is clocking relay ??
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Just my typo, locking relay.
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Yes itâs a shame but moving on the 300 series was better. Â
I believe from snippets of info Iâve gained over the years that is the clocking relay that sends the signal to the indicator relay to flash the indicators,  I donât know how as that item isnât shown in my early D1 diagrams, maybe because in the days of your disco remote central locking plus the alarm ECU upgrade was an option, optional kit isnât necessarily shown in old factory wiring diagrams. But the flash should be there when using the key only in the drivers door.
Really without wiring diagram whatâs now required, is spending a day looking and testing as necessary (find out which wire is sending 12v when locking/ unlocking) in the wiring from the alarm ECU, onwards  to the central locking relay that is the tall black relay thatâs  positioned near the ECU, plus the relay connection and operation, then go to hazard switch.
as the system was once functional suggests that clearing you issue will be simple... if you can find it that is.
If the issue canât be found, than youâll have to stay without the locking/unlocking indicator flash, the D1s door actuators arenât exactly silent and the door pin is easily seen to confirm that the door is locked/unlocked.
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On 6/3/2019 at 9:39 AM, discodave22 said:
For the alarm especially the feed to flashers
As it appears that u have a 200 series disco hence the five terminal relay ie. pre 1995MY, so  the electrical circuits are simple.
Vehicle security wiring diagram isnât available but the indicator diagram below shows the five terminal relay that u have shown in your the pictures.Â
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Key blanks (uncut key) for the D1/2 are available on eBay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323768943005
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The vacuum pipe has a one way valve which can block with carbon, and will give u that symptom, you may have two valves one each end as my 3.9 disco has, so remove and soak in brake cleaner fluid or similar to clean and replace, problem gone as mine did, thatâs if that your issue. đ
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You have already asked your question in a previous thread, and a reply showing the components involved with the internal mirror. Thereâs nothing called âshoeâ.
Give us the description and Iâll look in my parts catalogue for the part number, which will be obsolete nowadays, so wonât be a lot of use.
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Not the part number but itâs a correct discription of the  items that do have a part number which u can use in your www search.
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On 3/9/2019 at 6:53 AM, Downsy said:
Hi i went out to it this morning having been stood a full week unlocked it with the key touched the old key fob and it worked and i could start it.đ i went back to it 25 mins later and it wont work again !!!!! Any ideas ????
Happy you have resolve your discos issue, itâs a known problem with the receiver.
Re. the access code, thatâs normal... enter the code but donât lock lock the vehicle thereâs no need to enter it again, then because you re locked the access code had to be re entered again, I assume thatâs what u did.đ
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13 hours ago, Longie said:
The wheel caps cost me a lot to have made, most probably more than the car is worth!!!!!
New relay fitted and has started 3 or 4 times today but no idea if that has fixed it!
There was almost a year between the last two episodes of not starting.
I think I might buy a couple of spares as they seem quite reasonable.
I will keep the post updated.
Thanks for your help.
Graham
At last it looks promising for you. đ
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21 hours ago, Bigred357 said:
Hi I have a 97 r reg 3.9 efi auto discovery that wonât run. I took it to the shops the other weekend and it cut out half way there but restarted fine but then cut out on the way back and wouldnât start. Iâve just charged the battery and tried to start it fired up for a few seconds and cut out and now just cranking over. Iâve checked Iâve power to ignition coil but still nothing.Â
Itâs something that to my engine a few years ago.
Run a temporary wire from the battery + to your coil + then see if it starts. If so I tell u what to do.
Thereâs no need now to remove the dash as stated in the link above which also has a few technical errors in it.
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New relays if required, take your pick on the price. https://www.lrdirect.com/AFU2913L-Rly-Fuel-Injection/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAh9njBRCYARIsALJhQkFFxu-bLdHmWv4qT5GLT2nqXeHiZYaOH9gLDIq_quleFWqppJTO3gYaAiNtEALw_wcB
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Then  can I have your wheel centre caps Land V8 Rover ?đ
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1 hour ago, Ally V8 said:
From distant memory the extra pin is used to feed the heaters in the oxygen sensors. You need to make sure you get the right one,I was called out to a Morgan Plus 8 with the RR3.9 v8. It had failed its MOT on high emissions,I found that the fuel pump relay had been replaced with one that powered the oxy heaters all the time the fuel pump was off...
That will be the Bosch  relay then  with the parallel terminals  đ therefore the oxy heaters and fuel pump are working simultaneously ... so Ooops I made a error the relay is not the change over variety although the LR diagram shows it as 87 & 87a.
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On 3/5/2019 at 10:58 AM, Longie said:
I apologise if this has been asked before!!!
I have a 1994 300 series 3.9 V8i and it has developed a random starting problem, it has now happened 5 times in the last 18 months.
After a short stop, say 15 â 20 minutes, the engine will turn over but not start. If left for 1 â 2 hours it will start of as if nothing had happened!!! On the occasions I have called the AA it has been recorded that there is a problem with the fuel.
About the only thing I have not tried is replacing the fuel pump relay but I am not sure how to test it to see if this is the problem.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. (especially by my long suffering wife.)
Cheers
GrahamThe symptoms that your disco has is very similar failing immobiliser. Fortunately as you have a1994 disco you donât have the passive âspiderâ immobiliser which was introduced with the 1996MY disco which is known to have issues, such as intermittent starting, it happened to me, but a single wire overcame that issue  so fortunately no need to remove the front of the dash.
Testing your pump relay is simple when remover, just a 12v supply and a multimeter is all thatâs required, if you can hear it clicking your halfway there, or of course you could just replace it. Do you know where to find the relay?
The ignition amplifier on your vehicle is attached to the distributor so could fail intermittently due to the hot environment in that area. LR moved the amp to a new location with the 1996MY and positioned it near to the coil at the rear of the slam panel on it own heat sink and linked it back to the distributor with is own dedicated cable. So no heat issues.
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Thatâs it and now back to work.
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50 minutes ago, Richard Mills said:
I fixed mine, just took them both out, cleaned up the seal and the roof and refitted using sealant, no more leaks.
Make sure the drain holes are clear and work properly, they make a lot of difference.
Drain holes! For owners that open and tilt their sunroof while itâs covered with water, hence drains only at the front of the sunroof.  đŚÂ Â
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Why go to the trouble of making something thatâs water tight to replace the sunroofs, when all u have to do is replace one or both of the existing seals.
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Remove it and give it a quick spray of brake cleaner, they have been known to carbon up but normally they are clean unless thereâs a underlying course.
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An automatic and itâs stalling? Try cleaning the crankcase breather (flame trap) and the hose leading to the plenum chamber first.
I had a similar issue when I owned a 3.5 RR other wise đ¤ I didnât know.
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My Haynes manual diagrams seem ok to me, but then Iâve never  had to  use them them. Bit Iâll do a screen print of  page from my book if u wish.
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Thatâs normal, those vents are just for outside fresh air, u are talking about the dash centre vents?
300 Tdi Immobilser Question
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
What is a ARM5965 ? It means nothing to Google or me đ