Jump to content

teabag

Settled In
  • Posts

    1,230
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by teabag

  1. On 6/15/2019 at 10:04 AM, neilc said:

    Morning , im really sorry if this has been covered in the past however I couldn't find an answer

    my Land rover series 3 is  39 years old , I am aware of the 40 year historic tax rule and the DVLA state that tax is rolling from point of registration,

    My 40th year commences  in AUGUST 2019 and then it should be tax free , however does it need to have a current mot when 40 years kicks in?

    My situation is this , My MOT expires in June 2019 , the Landy is 40 in August , can I sorn it for 2 months and then claim historic tax or does it need to be MOTD when the 40 years kicks in?

     

    I hope this makes sense.

     

    Thanks.

    Neil.

     

    Yes to your question. No MOT no tax unless MOT exempt.

    You can apply to stop paying for vehicle tax if your vehicle was built before 1 January 1979. You must tax your vehicle even if you do not have to pay, Its automatic.

    With the MOT exemption the vehicle has to be classified as Historic for that you have to apply to the DVLA, and certify the vehicle doesn’t meet the “modified” criteria and of course the vehicle was first registered 40+ years ago.

    Simples, I did both last year at the same time at my local Post Office for my classic car that was on a Sorn at the time so with out an MOTcert.

  2. 1 hour ago, lol said:

    I've been having a few overheating problems with my 3.9 v8 and I'm suspicious of waterpump impeller may become de attached or slip when warm

    how can I tell other than removing?

    The impeller has been known to break up, but very rare I believe and then only on aftermarket market items.

    A faulty viscous coupling for the fan will cause overheating.

    Coolant flowing the heater is a good indication that the pump is ok, also maybe u can look/feel  inside after removing the bottom hose connection on the pump.

  3. On 6/8/2019 at 3:33 PM, discodave22 said:

    i removed plastic side  panel in passenger foot well but couldn't see Alarm 

    only found a headlamp relay and another(cant remember what for) and a yellow 4 pin relay but don't know what this one is for 

    Teabag- what is clocking relay ??

     

    Just my typo, locking relay.

  4.  

    Yes it’s a shame but moving on the 300 series was better.  

    I believe from snippets of info I’ve gained over the years that is the clocking relay that sends the signal to the indicator relay to flash the indicators,  I don’t know how as that item isn’t shown in my early D1 diagrams, maybe because in the days of your disco remote central locking plus the alarm ECU upgrade was an option, optional kit isn’t necessarily shown in old factory wiring diagrams. But the flash should be there when using the key only in the drivers door.

    Really without wiring diagram what’s now required, is spending a day looking and testing as necessary (find out which wire is sending 12v when locking/ unlocking) in the wiring from the alarm ECU, onwards  to the central locking relay that is the tall black relay that’s  positioned near the ECU, plus the relay connection and operation, then go to hazard switch.

    as the system was once functional suggests that clearing you issue will be simple... if you can find it that is.

    If the issue can’t be found, than you’ll have to stay without the locking/unlocking indicator flash, the D1s door actuators aren’t exactly silent and the door pin is easily seen to confirm that the door is locked/unlocked.

     

     

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  5. On 6/3/2019 at 9:39 AM, discodave22 said:

    For the alarm especially the feed to flashers

    As it appears that u have a 200 series disco hence the five terminal relay ie. pre 1995MY, so  the electrical circuits are simple.

    Vehicle security wiring diagram isn’t available but the indicator diagram below shows the five terminal relay that u have shown in your the pictures. 

     

    A7250CED-ECDC-4941-AC98-68154A4C5A63.jpeg

    • Thanks 1
  6. The vacuum pipe has a one way valve which can block with carbon, and will give u that symptom, you may have two valves one each end as my 3.9 disco has, so remove and soak in brake cleaner fluid or similar to clean and replace, problem gone as mine did, that’s if that your issue. 😋

    • Like 1
  7. You have already asked your question in a previous thread, and a reply showing the components involved with the internal mirror. There’s nothing called “shoe”.

    Give us the description and I’ll look in my parts catalogue for the part number, which will be obsolete nowadays, so won’t be a lot of use.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    F5F7DFEB-F610-4F12-B6A9-04FC800B4C9D.jpeg

  8. On 3/9/2019 at 6:53 AM, Downsy said:

    Hi i went out to it this morning having been stood a full week unlocked it with the key touched the old key fob and it worked and i could start it.😁 i went back to it 25 mins later and it wont work again !!!!! Any ideas ????

    Happy you have resolve your discos issue, it’s a known problem with the receiver.

    Re. the access code, that’s normal... enter the code but don’t lock lock the vehicle there’s no need to enter it again, then because you re locked the access code had to be re entered again, I assume that’s what u did.🙂

  9. 13 hours ago, Longie said:

    The wheel caps cost me a lot to have made, most probably more than the car is worth!!!!!

    New relay fitted and has started 3 or 4 times today but no idea if that has fixed it!

    There was almost a year between the last two episodes of not starting.

    I think I might buy a couple of spares as they seem quite reasonable.

    I will keep the post updated.

    Thanks for your help.

    Graham

    At last it looks promising for you. 😎

  10. 21 hours ago, Bigred357 said:

    Hi I have a 97 r reg 3.9 efi auto discovery that won’t run. I took it to the shops the other weekend and it cut out half way there but restarted fine but then cut out on the way back and wouldn’t start. I’ve just charged the battery and tried to start it fired up for a few seconds and cut out and now just cranking over. I’ve checked I’ve power to ignition coil but still nothing. 

    It’s something that to my engine a few years ago.

    Run a temporary wire from the battery + to your coil + then see if it starts. If so I tell u what to do.

    There’s no need now to remove the dash as stated in the link above which also has a few technical errors in it.

  11. 1 hour ago, Ally V8 said:

    From distant memory the extra pin is used to feed the heaters in the oxygen sensors. You need to make sure you get the right one,I was called out to a Morgan Plus 8 with the RR3.9 v8. It had failed its MOT on high emissions,I found that the fuel pump relay had been replaced with one that powered the oxy heaters all the time the fuel pump was off...

    That will be the Bosch  relay then  with the parallel terminals  😋 therefore the oxy heaters and fuel pump are working simultaneously ... so Ooops I made a error the relay is not the change over variety although the LR diagram shows it as 87 & 87a.

  12. The correct relay for the V8 EFI system fitted to the D1 has terminal 87 and terminal 87a which is a change over relay, according to the disco’s EFI diagram. There another relay with a dual 87 terminals  are just in parallel,  plus theres the common relay with a single 87 terminal.

     

    89B3E1A6-7A45-492C-AFEF-2F4C382A9E92.jpeg

    BE48DF7A-EF2B-4287-9FE0-694E94F27272.jpeg

    A513B141-FDA2-4E81-A62D-C442BB6F42F5.jpeg

  13. On 3/5/2019 at 10:58 AM, Longie said:

    I apologise if this has been asked before!!!

    I have a 1994 300 series 3.9 V8i and it has developed a random starting problem, it has now happened 5 times in the last 18 months.
    After a short stop, say 15 – 20 minutes, the engine will turn over but not start. If left for 1 – 2 hours it will start of as if nothing had happened!!! On the occasions I have called the AA it has been recorded that there is a problem with the fuel.
    About the only thing I have not tried is replacing the fuel pump relay but I am not sure how to test it to see if this is the problem.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated. (especially by my long suffering wife.)
    Cheers
    Graham

    The symptoms that your disco has is very similar failing immobiliser. Fortunately as you have a1994 disco you don’t have the passive ‘spider’ immobiliser which was introduced with the 1996MY disco which is known to have issues, such as intermittent starting, it happened to me, but a single wire overcame that issue  so fortunately no need to remove the front of the dash.

    Testing your pump relay is simple when remover, just a 12v supply and a multimeter is all that’s required, if you can hear it clicking your halfway there, or of course you could just replace it. Do you know where to find the relay?

    The ignition amplifier on your vehicle is attached to the distributor so could fail intermittently due to the hot environment in that area. LR moved the amp to a new location with the 1996MY and positioned it near to the coil at the rear of the slam panel on it own heat sink and linked it back to the distributor with is own dedicated cable. So no heat issues.

     

    That’s it and now back to work.

  14. 50 minutes ago, Richard Mills said:

    I fixed mine, just took them both out, cleaned up the seal and the roof and refitted using sealant, no more leaks.

    Make sure the drain holes are clear and work properly, they make a lot of difference.

    Drain holes! For owners that open and tilt their sunroof while it’s covered with water, hence drains only at the front of the sunroof.  💦  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy