teabag
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Posts posted by teabag
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I take it as a Td5 as u refer to a “fuel cooler,” your cooling system is a close circuit system so no overflow as such, but excess pressure arriving due to say a blown head gasket would be via the valve “bottle” filler cap.
I suggest u remove your diy pipe and reinstall the correct hose. The exact cooling hose layouts can be found in LRs Rave workshop manual.
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The 1970 - Oct 1992 RR Haynes workshop manual is quite comprehensive with electrical wiring diagrams. The fan speed is controlled by the slider switch MXC5705, “potentiometer” is the LR description in my RR parts catalogue and was fitted to my 1997 RR which may have been 4speed, your 96 model may the same but that was a change over year between carb and EFI.
Yes the heat from my vehicles heater was very poor (compared to the cars I was driving at the time) from the day I drove it from the from the LR showroom and for all the 10 years I had it.
The middle dash vents only were fitted with the AC system, my RR didn’t have AC so no middle vents.
The best heater would have been the 4speed one as is fitted into the later RR, which was on called and badged Classic, also fitted to the 300 series disco and the disco 2, but would require the require the complete removal the front part of the dash
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On 1/29/2019 at 8:34 PM, Stellaghost said:
Problems solved picked up a cream mfu and some fog light switches at u pull it for £10 everything fine now
Well Done 😄
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8 hours ago, woop said:
That's ok no problem
Ive looked again at the wiring diagrams, and I'm going to try and simulate an engine running signal by enabling the Main Relay-something I hadn't tried before. If this dosent work, I'll use the unused Heated Front screen relay and just connect it to my original timer module
So it looks if you have the EFI system up and running, so great, but now your concerns are the operation of a heated rear screen.
Why not go back in time when such items were switched on with a dash switch, plus a lamp with a colour of your choice which was illuminated when ON, Is that not a simples way of achieving your objective.
Plus if you feel that u won’t see the lamp illumination, move on a couple of years in time and interface a “timer” relay into the ignition supply circuit... Simples 😊
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19 hours ago, woop said:
Thanks for the info guys Ive decided to go the whole hog and transplant the D2 BCU and Fusebox... Ive assembled everything on the bench and made everything work except the Heated Rear Window which it looks like the BCU is looking for an Engine Running Signal from the Cluster. Ive tried simulating oil pressure and an Alternator output without any success. What does the Cluster use as an Engine Running signal?
Cheers
Nick
Hi Nick
As I’m sure you know, that’s a very good safety function, that the D1 has for the rear heated screen.
The front heated screen also has the same feature, both are control by the D1s multifunction unit which also gives the heating time duration function for the two screens.
So I suspect that the D2 doesn’t have that feature.
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Okay, but is there a question?
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I don’t know what exactly the updated cream MFU difference is other that it has the timer circuit provision for vehicles with a heated windscreen if fitted.
Ive seen a couple of posts saying the black replacement for the cream item had been fine.
i had to replace my MFU in 2012 as it failed completely, £138 from Rimmer bros back then, so 15 years or so for an electronic unit that’s powered 24/7 is good, could be better maybe, depends on its use.
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18 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
Hi All having some electrical issues with my 300 tdi discovery fog lights won't work and then they do work but stay on regardless of light switch position I can take switch apart and they stay on interior lights come on and off at will and near side headlight adjustment motor going all the time unless lights switched off unsure as to whether all these problems are linked any advice gratefully received thank you
Stephen
I assume that will be the rear fog lights and not the front, if so they are controlled by the vehicles multifunction unit (MFU) along with the interior light delay, key and lights on buzzer which are the obvious issues, plus a few other things like delay wash wipe, the MFU has a diagnostic test function ( Google for that) and check that the MFU is function correctly first as it’s a simple test done from the drivers seat.
if okay then move on to checking earth connections, the main one in the engine bay plus the ones behind each kick panel in the footwells.
D1s don’t normall suffer with dampness in the fuse boards unless the vehicle has been in water that deep but then u are in trouble elsewhere.
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10 hours ago, JohnnoK said:
Isn't there a tie-in with an oil pressure switch, too?
I may be way off base, but there is a lingering fragment of a thought along those lines. Something to do with the pump continuing to run after the initial prime when the engine has started.
U are not way off, but the only connection to the pressure switch is the dash lamp illumination.
After the pump has primed it stops, it restarts as soon as the engine is running, switched by the ECU when pulses are given from the ignition coil to the ECU.
The fuel pump and EFI/Main relays (AFU 2913L) are expensive new, so don’t break them, they are the only two of that type fitted. Also the D1 EFI engine is “hot wire” it always has been so don’t confuse it with the Range Rover 3.5 “flapper “ engine.
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My 3.5 EFI diagram shows the same connections. The 3.9 is similar.
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The drivers door lock is can not only be remotely locked/unlocked but also manual locked/unlocked, therefore without testing to confirm it appears you may have an iffy drivers door lock actuator.
I expect the actuator is part of the lock so if you find it’s the actuator that’s faulted the whole lock will require replacing. But it could be something simple, lubrication, detached part...but you’ll have to remove the door card to find out.
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Iffy electrical connection maybe. Did u check the fusible links in the engine bay, some protect the feed to multiple circuits at the dashboard fuse box.
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Is it really overheating ie. boiling over, plus the AC fan switching on as it supposed to in an overheat condition, or is it that just the dash temp gauge going into the red ?
You have eliminated any issue with the thermostat by replacement of the old one which is faulty being permanently open, in normal conditions that would mean the the coolant would be slow to get up to temp.
If the water pump isn’t leaking, plus the impeller and pump bearing are intact there’s no need to replace the pump.
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No you will plug the diagnostic kit into the vehicles diagnostic socket that’s below the steering wheel on the left hand side.
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As the above post , they are a parts wholesaler, if you look at their site they will supply you with what u want as long as it’s made that is... so Genuine LR, OEM or pattern/aftermarket, take your pick... if u didn’t get what I asked for then tell them and send it back. Simples.
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Yes the interior lights are switch by the BCU on a D2. (MFU on a D1) But let’s start with simple things first, is there a 12v supply at the light fitting ?
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A great find fo the D2 owners that require such information,
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There should be a permanent supply to both units above for the purpose of the manual switch. Do u have that supply at the fuse and then up at the both lights.
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The rapid flashing of the LED will notify you that alarm is inactive. The ultrasonic sensor can go over sensitive if faulty, locking will isolate that item.
I assume that the central locking is fully functional so no issues there.
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4 hours ago, Ally V8 said:
It would help if you could confirm what car it is, you say a 94 TD5 . A 1994 Discovery would be a TDI, wheras a 1999 on would be a TD5.
All the previous posts from the OP are Td5 related so we can assume that’s confirmation, and the 94 is just a ‘typo’.
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Looks like the inlet valley rubber seal is leaking, so clean the oil off and remove the distributor cap to get better access to the seals clamping screw (u can see the clamp in the photo) and tighten it, it may be as simple as that to stop it leaking. Although you wouldn’t loose the 6 and bit litres of engine oil from that area. And tighten the rocker cover screws also at the same time.
just undo the two nuts at the exhaust joint, part it wth a screw driver and squeeze exhaust seal into the gap and do up the nuts, simples.
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This may help you Dave.
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Windscreen/rear washer hose is the bog standard plastic hose with one way valves behind the washer bottle alongside the two pumps. The head lamp washer is high pressure hose with a 10mm ID, the HP pump is also behind the washer bottle. If you don’t have the T piece that is below the bumper then that’s DCP6656 it also combines a one way valve.
Although it’s a reprint now, the genuine UK paper parts catalogue is RTC9947CF with the correct part numbers for the UK market, some the foreign online versions are sometimes incorrect... understandable, so double check.
Ive looked again at the wiring diagrams, and I'm going to try and simulate an engine running signal by enabling the Main Relay-something I hadn't tried before. If this dosent work, I'll use the unused Heated Front screen relay and just connect it to my original timer module
dip and main beam relay no lights
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Don’t worry about the dim-dip relay function, it only operates when the engine is running, if you have one I can isolate it by simply unplugging the resistor which is positioned on the engine bay bulkhead by the screen wash bottle.
There’s a main fuse in the engine bay fuse box something like 30amp, for the headlamps, it’s in the row of 6 ‘fusible links if I remember correctly.