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Get some 4 gauge cable and run it all the way to starter main lug. Remove the existing 2 wires. See a welding shop for cable and terminals.
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I could be wrong, but I don't think Defenders are wired from the factory for a tach.
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Polyairs are very common in Australia and I've seen many people with them. I've never heard of any problems.
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I bought from here: http://www.siliconehoses.co.uk/
For the 200TDI Defender, three 51 mm elbows plus one 51 mm coupler gives 42.50 UKP, less than half the price of Paddocks. Get some 60 mm clamps as well to make everything perfect. Since these are generic, you need to trim some from the straight legs of the elbow, but 10 seconds with a hacksaw fixes that.
This was my order.
FMA90-51_Black- 51mm 90° Elbow Silicone Hose 3FMC-51_Black-51mm Coupler Silicone Hose 1
FMHC5070 - 50 - 70mm Stainless Steel hose Clamp 8
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If it is a higher amperage, you should run larger main wiring.
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In my experience, they fail in the unlocked position. The only way to test them, is to drive hard enough to start overheating. Then get out, take a newspaper or such and try to stop the fan. If it stops, the coupling is not working.
It is fairly hard to get into a condition ( in the UK) where the coupling locks up. It needs to be hot out and you need to be using power and moving slowly. A long steep hill when it is 30 C out is what you need.
Like I said, I have NEVER found a used LR with a working coupling. Most people can't tell because they never see the conditions where it is needed.
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There is a plug on the back of the box next to the brake that you use a 1/2" ratchet in. That is the level and fill plug.
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Really
Would you explain to mer how a viscous fan pulls air through the intercooler and the fan at low speeds when it is NOT WORKING
Also on a 200TDI, the viscous fan shroud significantly restricts air flow through the intercooler. Just removing the shroud makes a big difference to the intercooler.
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Why not just mount it to the roof? It would be a lot cleaner and reception would be much better. In that location, the roof will block half of the signals. If you really want a side mount, put it on the back would be a lot safer from damage.
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Electric fans get a bad rep for a few reasons. If you do the install well, they are as reliable as a viscous fan. I personally have never found a used LR with a working viscous unit and they are quite expensive to replace.
The main pitfalls people do when changing to electric.
1) Mounting the fan from the fins (as per the above pictures). The mounts eventually rub through the channels and cause a leak. The fans should be mounted to the radiator supports (top and bottom) and not the channels, fins or tanks.
2) Do not seal the shroud to the radiator. This results in air recirculation and the efficiency of the cooling is very poor.
3) Install a fan that is too small. Just get "Mondeo" fan from the wreckers... It is a perfect fit, they are cheap and plentiful and have way more air flow than needed for a LR TDI or V8.
4) The electrical installation is bodgy.... Make sure everything is designed and installed for the fan amperage and suitable for a wet environment.
Here is my install: http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=369251.0
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Mine did not have a terminal.
The blue wire was added to get a tach signal. You need a feed straight from the windings before the rectifier.
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my engine was still warm from the drive home from work & everything is in fine order, nothing wrong at all.
Temperature gauge is showing cold.
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IME, lockers do not help in mud.... other than to get you stuck worse.
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You need to drive it to create boost. In order for a turbo to create boost, the mass flow leaving the engine must exceed that coming in. This only occurs when under load. Also boost only starts around 1500 rpm.
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If you have a rear tank, you can fit the stock side tank or vice-versa or there are aftermarket ones as well.
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my previous R380 only ever ran on ATF & I had no problems with gear changes until it died when the layshaft bearing went & I lost 5th & Reverse after 210,000 miles & my current R380 still runs ATF.
So, despite the bearings failing, the lube worked fine for you????
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Yes, they are fine.
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The moral of the story... If you get bigger tyres, run lower pressures.
I suggest everyone measure the sidewall height vs pressure for their own setup. 100% is at say 40 psi. A good running point is 85% of this height to start down to around 75% as a minimum. You need to do it front and rear as many vehicles weigh different front and rear.
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OK, ground pressure....
Ground pressure is basically equal to the air pressure in the tyre. If you want lower ground pressure, reduce the air pressure. A wider tyre AT THE SAME air pressure has a shorter, wider footprint than a narrow tyre. That type of footprint does not provide as much traction.
However, a larger (wider or taller) tyre can be operated at a lower pressure safely. So, if you take a 285 and run it at its proper lowest pressure and the 255 at its lowest pressure then the 285 will do better. The problem is people not setting their tyres at the proper pressure (75 to 80% of maximum sidewall height).
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Mud stuff dont have the switch listen on their site. Got it off X-Eng, i'll contact them. I've got it out by shoving two keys down either side and squeezing it.
The numbers I have are 10 3 2 1 8 7 and 9
Those are the pin numbers, not the model number of the switch. Do you not have an invoice?
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They fit fine with no lift or modifications at all. You need proper wheels of the right width and offset. Most non-genuine 16x7" wheels are OK.
They are the same height as 255/85/16.
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Ummm, you need to ask who you bought it from. The switches are available in a huge variety of wiring configurations.
If you can find/read the part number, it can be figured out from here:
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It lets water/dirt into the hub bearings. Pull apart the hub, clean and inspect. If the bearings are OK, grease and refit. If not, replace the bearings.
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Pop the cap off and count them
That does not help. They are always 24 spline at the hub. The 23 or 32 is into the CV joint.
A 1989 should be 23 spline.
Alternator Upgrade
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Go to a welding store, they will crimp the ends for you. IMO, it makes more sense to "do it right" with one properly sized wire and be done with it.