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I use a low viscosity gear oil. Same viscosity as the 30 weight (basically) but better for gear life and stays fluid at cold temperatures (unlike straight 30 weight). Normal gear oil would probably eat a bit of power.
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Did you look underneath? Are the axles the same?
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Just to hijack the thread a bit, I want to put an LED in line instead but that obviously introduces the issue of a voltage drop, one-way traffic, and a lack of current sourcing. Any way round this or do I have to give in and fit a traditional bulb to my as-yet-unmade bling dashboard?
No. The light needs to work both ways. If there is no charge, it power from the battery to the alternator. If the recitfier is gone, it can power the other way.
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That is why I ask if it is stock or tweaked. Personally, I would stay with the gearing and up the power!!!!
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Ummmmm..... It is the tyres. 35" tyres eat power. Gearing sounds OK for that size of tyre.
Is the boost and fueling stock? If so, there is lots of room for improvement.
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Crank Case Ventilation.
Oh, I did not notice you are local. I don't have that engine any more. Just put in a 200TDI last month.
I assume then that yours is ex military? If so, that would explain the sump. The military spec engine incorporate a fancy oil separation system on the CCV system.
PM me if you want to get together. Do you know about the ALRE (Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts) outing on the May long weekend?
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The drain location looks the same as my 2.5 NA. The exhaust looks a little closer to the sump than it should be. I believe that engines with the oil separators in the CCV system have the drain on the left.
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The problem with Aluminum is that it would overheat and melt when used as an emergency brake. Brakes need to be designed for very high temperatures.
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Why do you believe it is the front axle??
It could be many places. It could be in the suspension.
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The gauge on my 90 works normally. Goes up when hot and down when cool.....
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The brake line concern is for the FRONT springs. If you have long springs, you MAY not have enough room to remove the springs without damaging the brake lines. If that is the case, just unbolt the brake caliper and hang it safely out of the way.
Getting the front shocks off can be a PITA.... The pros use a torch....
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Is the gearbox tunnel still offset to the left side? Some of the promotional photos made it look like it was centered. For LHD models, the offset has always been a huge PITA as there is not enough room on the left side.
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Timing is as per the manual. Fairly straightforward. You can use a 3/8" drll bit instead of the factory timing pin on the pump.
Is it black when WARM and off boost? If just on cold startup, it could be crankcase oil.
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Pulley/damper bolts are 4 x M8 coarse bolts, use a small amount of any thread locking compound as these bolts don't usually work loose. Timing belt tensioner I set at 20nm.
Setting the tensioner 'until the clutch slips' will see the belt snapped/timing case wrecked/or similar, (bit of confusion going on here I think )
Les.
He was referring to the large bolt holding the dampener onto the crankshaft.
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...except speedo that's 80mm diameter...
Aren't they 100mm???
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Wellllll, 35 Amps is a slightly different ballgame. If you could put it all in a sealed package for less than the $80 USD that he sells them for, let's see it!!!
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Umm, sorry, but diesels ALWAYS run lean. EGT temperature increase with more fuel, not less.
Your description is how petrol engines work. Diesels do not run at a constant mixture.
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A friend of mine ran a RR Bobtail fitted with a 4.6 and Detroit lockers, he broke two sets of Ashcrofts rear half shalfs, fitted Genuine V8 90 half shafts and hasn't broke one since.
Yes, but which Ashcroft shafts????? There have been many versions. The new ones will certainly be stronger than the genuine V8 ones.
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Are you sure....
The 32 spline CVs came out in 1994 with the 300TDI, AFAIK.
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New seals, new brakes pads and discs and it will be like new...plus you KNOW it is all good. That 4 year old axle could start leaking tomorrow. Actually, it could be leaking already, you just can't tell because of the grease in the swivels....
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Oil leaks are the only think preventing them from rusting away. I just assumed it was designed that way.
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The radius arms are a different width, so the mounts need modifying.
It will be overall weaker, due to smaller CVs and a a tighter hub bearing spacing.
What do you mean "worn"?? Everything can be fixed easily enough.
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It will never work, never!!!!!!
Hang on, no..... that would be bad for me....
Just kidding. I think it sounds like a good idea actually.
The turbo does use up some power so some extra fuel might be needed in the end to realize all of the gains. I'd try it as is, but you might need to use the TD pump in the end to get some extra fuel on boost without making it smoke off boost. Then just keep the wastegate backed off so that the boost is low. We are at around 2 psi below see level pressure here and at 7000 ft is would be 3 psi. So maybe 3 psi boost would be a good choice to start with.
I just drove one!!!!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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No it is a Getrag 6 speed. 63:1 crawl ratio, 5.4:1 first gear.
http://rovering.squarespace.com/journal/20...r-revealed.html
GFT = Getrag Ford Transmissions. Same gearbox as used in the Transit vans.