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Still haven't got round to buying a new starter, it will start every time although I have to endure the ginding of teeth. I tried running jump leads direct from the battery to see if it was a bad earth. No change, just spins for a while then catches on the third or forth attempt.
The bendix is sticking. Pull the starter off. Lube up the bendix assembly. It will be fine after that.
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just leave the wiring away. A tdi starts fine without any heat even in coldest winters. I have 2 tdi's without wiring on them and have never had a problem.
You've never been anywhere cold then.....
The stock Defender 200TDI glow plug timer system should plug right into the existing harness without and hassle or modifications.
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Yeah that is what I was trying to say - a picture is worth a thousand words
You did mention that you needed to be going fast for it to work..... However, the speed of air inside the ram is is a function of the amount of air the engine is sucking, not the speed of the vehicle.
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Safari snorkel intake rams have a water disengagement system to prevent rain from entering the intake.
All Safari Charge Air Rams feature a highly effective water separator system built right into the air ram in order to remove rain water from the incoming air stream - thus ensuring safe engine operation through even the most torrential tropical storms. -
what year did they start putting dti200 engine in defender
1991
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http://www.britrest.com/Winter/heaters.htm
Block heatersAfter a lot of searching we have found suitable block heaters for all older series and for the newer Defender diesels
These heaters go direct into the water jacket - not the bottom hose with is very inefficient - so bad we will not sell them
Made in Canada, tested by us!
Defender 2.5/ 2.25 diesel / petrol = BRHTR02 $89.95
Also http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-8435-bl...25l-diesel.aspx
BLOCK HEATER 2.5L DIESELSKU: 8803609
Price: $110.25
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Another point....
IMO, leave the seal out. It will then let axle oil to the splines and the bearings. It substantially reduces the chance of failure of both components. Just make sure the hub seal is in good shape.
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Thanks, yes I checked the Zerostart application guide already - it lists 3100070 for "1958-UP L4 GAS/DIESEL" but I suspect that only covers 2.25 since the 2.5 doesn't officially exist in North America - and the stated plug size (1-15/16) appears a little too small. They don't appear to list anything bigger than 50mm.
I may resort to a lower hose or circulation heater - but my ideal would be to fit a plug heater now while I have the alt and front exhaust pipe off that side - eventually I'd like to fit a Webasto circulation heater and just have the plug heater as a backup.
How much too small? You say 2 mm? I'm sure that would be within tolerance of those things.
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From the workshop manual....
0.82 bar (12 P.S.I.C.) measured at wastegatehttp://www.landrover.ee/est/files/manuals/..._Supplement.pdf
There should be some loss to the inlet manifold, but not much.
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I would think you should be able to find a frost plug heater.
Other options are lower radiator hose heaters or coolant cirulation heaters. Normally the coolant circulation heater would go in the cabin heater line. Last option is a glue on sump pad heater.
What country are you in?? If North america, look at the Zerostart catalog, http://www.zerostart.com/pub_AppGuides.asp If Canada, I have a lower rad heater you can have for mail cost, though it is probably cheaper/easier to go to a store.
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Try it & can't see why it shouldn't work, both engines would draw the same amount of air as they are the same cubic capacity.
Neil, as above try it.
The amount of air drawn is higher in a TDI because it is running at higher boost.
A TDI at 15 psi versus a TD at 6 psi draws (15 + 14.7) / (6 + 14.7) = 43% more air. Actually a little less due to losses into the cylinders, but that is the ballpark.
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That is the underbody anti corrosion protection system. Factory fitted.
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Most carburators have no means of shutting off fuel. Petrol engines shut down by turning off the ignition system. If it is running on, then the timing is probably out or the idle mixture is way off.
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Close the intake vent and make sure it is adjusted properly.
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From another post....
Fitted 3" lift 4" plus longer shocks disolation cones ect.37" boggers offset,ash croft shafts ect,new wide props and new diffs,wide archs.I have had this 90 from 1992 and think i proberly go off road every day but a novice at the up grades.......Ummm buddy.....
Before you come and ask such a question perhaps you should explain what equipment you have on the axle......... You can't have a stock 10 spline diff with this setup...............
:blink: 
There is NO way you should be running 37" tyres with Rover centers and shafts ever.....
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it is a 200 tdi, is it possible it has been weak for a while as i was going so slow?
It should be a 10 spline diff. They are pretty weak and the center pins breaking are quite common especially behind a 200TDI which has way too much grunt for a diff of that size.
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Hmmmm, me thinks you had a bad ground or power connection.
I would clean and lube the bendix to make sure it is OK and try it again. Make sure you a good ground from the battery to the starter.
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You could install the "VDO p/n 437-156 130 kph/ 85 mph 4" dia electronic speedo", it only goes up to 85 mph, but is fully calibratable (is that a word? )
you fit it, press a button, drive for exactly a mile and it sets itself up. ideal if you regularly change wheels over 'n' stuff.
They don't make that one anymore AFAIK. I wish they did as it is perfect for Canada.
You need to get the 437-155 (120 mph) unit or if you want km/h there are 200 and 300 km/h versions.
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Disconnect the feed into the fuel filter and turn it over. See if you get any fuel from the lift pump.
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My 200 tdi has done 63000k and when i rev it it dies down nearly stalls then ticks over fine its been like for a while now but never bother me till i drove my mates and his is much more responsive and one no why please
Fuel filter or lift pump would be my guess.
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I converted mine to RWD mainly to be in keeping with the sympathetic restoration job on the Series but powerslides are fun too B)
And then you rear drive flanges wear out from the excessive loading and you get to be stuck on the side of the trail....
I'm sure it is just a coincidence that the only person I know to have done the 2WD conversion is the only person I know to have had said failure. It was a barrel of fun.
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Front propshafts are suppossed to be out of phase.
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You seriously want to be 6" higher than stock on a 90?? Why?
For 6" you will need to change EVERY suspension component and mounting location. Then it will be unstable as hell. You also better know a lot about suspension geometry.
:blink: 
Huge white clouds coming out of the exhaust, help is need ASAP
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
White smoke is normally retarded timing or possible crankcase oil being burnt. If the crankcase level is OK, check the timing and the injector spray pattern.