[Disco R380 into Defender ?]

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_34.html

[90 truck cab springs]

AFAIK, they fit the same springs to everything. I realize it makes no sense, but that is all I know and that is what the parts book says. I put longer (Discovery) springs in my 90 when I added the hard top.

[200TDI Engine Sump Drain Thread Size]

I meant BSP does not exist over here. BSP is a strange British only pipe thread with the crazy never seen Whitworthless thread form.... Rovers are great in that they use every known form of thread ever made in one vehicle, even within one engine.

[More power?]

I suspect the NA is running OK. We are at 4000 feet here and the altitude takes its toll on the power. Increasing fueling won't help as they are always overfueled up here. At sea level, they go a lot faster. Do you know what transfer gearing that you have? I suspect the 1.6:1, which limits top speed all by itself.

If you would like, contact me and I can have a drive and let you know what I think. I had a 2.5NA for years. I have a 200TDI now and you can take it for a spin and see what you think.

As far as service, about all we can do... replace the air filter and adjust the timing.

There are possible ways to get more power, but most will say the engine can not take it. There is a rebelious young man here in town that thinks it can be done safely and you may want to talk with him... Ahh, yes, here is his thread... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=12823&hl= Regardless, he is the man to talk with as I'm sure he has driven more 2.5NA than he can remember.

[200TDI Engine Sump Drain Thread Size]

Thanks. I guess I will get a Difflock one then. Damn you Whitworth!!!!

[200TDI Engine Sump Drain Thread Size]

I suspect, but can't actually confirm, its probably 1/2" BSP which is the same size as the blanking bungs in the top of domestic central heating rads.....

Not in my domestic world

[200TDI Engine Sump Drain Thread Size]

I hadn't seen those, but it would be a lot cheaper to get one on this side of the world if I knew the thread size. I usually use Fumoto.

[200TDI Engine Sump Drain Thread Size]

Anyone know or has one to measure?

I want to get a drain valve before the next oil change.

[Diff Light not illuminating on 300Tdi??]

Guys, I know its a newbie question but my diff lock was working pukka after gentle persuasion then i went on holiday for 2 weeks come back and cant get the light to come on. The guy who had it before never used low range or diff lock which i guess is why it seized. How can i access and free/ clean the contacts to enable the diff lock to work. I can here it 'engaging' when diff lock lever is pushed across but no light, does this mean its not engaged?? I have checked the bulb!!

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks

It is probably not engaging. First step is to lube and clean the linkages. Second would be adjustment if needed. The switch detects the actual engagement within the t. case. If it were dead, you simply replace.

[200tdi 90 temp guage reading]

I had read something somewhere....about the NAS 110s having a little conditioning board in the line that prevented the gauge from changing from "normal". I wonder if this is a feature of the 300TDI and later models.

Ahhhh, here: http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5409

[200tdi 90 temp guage reading]

Then I'm very surprised it works. Knowing how we treat them :o :o

I have a special one that I don't think ever got in the hands of a squaddy. Nothing at all bent, even the body panels at least until I got ahold of it.

[200tdi 90 temp guage reading]

I was wondering if it is the newer gauges that are the problem. Perhaps having signal conditioning in the line somewhere. Or have you guys tested new and old?

Mine is from a 1991 ex British army vehicle.

[200tdi 90 temp guage reading]

The name's John, if you must know, as I'm sure most around here already do.

If I have time, I'll do a full gauge calibration for you. As stated, I have millions of dollars worth of test equipment available and I spend too much of my life testing and measuring things. I'm quite confident the gauge is working fine and the range and accuracy are suitable for the duty.

That said, I will throw a VDO in one day, but just for the looks, not for function and will add an audible alarm at the same time.

[200tdi 90 temp guage reading]

Mike,

You really need to learn how to talk to people.

I KNOW that the water is not boiling at the top of the "white" section with the cap off, so it still below around 105 C or so. I know that it enters the lower part of the white section around 60 C. I know that the thermostat opens at 88 C... It is new and I tested it before installation.

[200tdi 90 temp guage reading]

So you can see a five degree rise in temperature and KNOW that the temperature has gone from 86Degrees to 91degrees on a standard Land Rover temperature gauge on your Defender.

Please explain how.

mike

The needle moves.

The posters above are saying that the needle stays in the "normal" position from 40 to 110C. All that I am saying is that MY GAUGE, does not act that way. It gives a reasonably linear reading in its 90 degree sweep of around 40 to 110 C. This is the same way that a VDO gauge works. If you want specific number readings like 86C, you need a digital gauge or a very narrow range analog.

I am not saying that the posters above are wrong. I am just stating my experience with my vehicle.

[200tdi 90 temp guage reading]

Nope, definetly not.

I've had it heat up from a mud plugged rad and it reacts correctly and was not boiling over if kept out of the red. I would agree that the gauge range is around 40 to 110C, which is what it should be.

Maybe other ones are different, but mine has a very linear range. I can actually see the thermostat opening from the gauge.

I run multi million dollar test eqipment for a living and I am very familiar with temperature measurement, displays and sensor response.

[200tdi 90 temp guage reading]

That's the problem with LR gauges, they never move (until your engine explodes). I would fit a decent gauge and sender and then, when you have your rad done or fit some fans you will be able to see the difference. At least you will feel that something has happened

The gauge in my 90 (ex-MOD with 200TDI) responds properly to temperature changes.

[Last bolt on engine removal problem; urgent help required]

Removing the mounts and lowering (as per the manual) gives a lot more room. I think I used a socket with U-joint and some long extensions to reach this one.

Some people remove the floor and access from inside the cab.

[Tuned 200tdi]

funny thing is, an old service manual i have lists it as a T25 (and the 300 as a T250-04) that's why I trotted out that brochure but that's as far as it identifies it, no other numbers as thta link you found lists it.

I was doing the same thing last night looking for the precise model used on the 2.8L HS and finally found it. There are soooo many versions of the GT22V for so many manufacturers it was staggering.

Yep, you are right. The workshop manual says T25. Unfortunately, there are a variety of "trim" levels for the T25 housing, which affects the compressor map.

Some here: http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/maps/all.html#t25

I'll have a look when I have some time.

[Tuned 200tdi]

No, I need a compressor map for the precise model used in the 200TDI.

Ahh, here... http://www.dieselevante.it/turbochargers.a...dcodice=ETC8751

LANDROVER 90/110 1992 2.5D - Gemini TB024 465171-0002 ETC8751

Tough to find a map. Garrett made way too many models of turbos.....

Not sure how close a TBO24 is to anything else.

[Tuned 200tdi]

I could be very wrong hear but i seem to remember reading that a tdi turbo becomes inefficient at 22psi and above at it starts to heat the air in a higher ratio to compressing it if that makes sense?

The problem is that at a certain inefficiency level the surge line is reached. If surge is achieved, the airflow becomes unstable and can destroy the turbo. As you increase elevation, the pressure ratio increases and the mass flow decreases pushing you closer to the surge line. The stock wastegate is set to ensure that no matter what, surge is never reached. When you boost up a turbo, it is important to check the compressor map and ensure that surge can not be reached.

I have not checked this turbo's map, but I'm pretty sure 22 psi is past the safe point for high altitude use.

[Tuned 200tdi]

Anyway, I would still be concerned about surge within the compressor. It will probably be OK at low altitude, but I'd worry if you travel at high altitude as the compression ratio increases. I'm not sure of what boost exactly would be worrysome. I suppose I could have a look over the compression map for these turbos.

Anybody got the exact turo specs handy??

[300 TDI consumption]

It all depends on speed.....

The engine is the most efficient around 2000 rpm or so. Traveling at that speed (around 80 km/h, 50 mph on a stock Defender) will give the highest mileage figures. The faster you go the worse your mileage will get.

[Tuned 200tdi]

Have not heard of that company myself. Those figures are not very high for a tuned 200TDI.

If the turbo is stock, I would be a little leary of that boost level. If you travel at altitude, don't floor it at low revs.

[Overheating swerving 300Tdi]

Ummmm, instead of randomly replacing parts, maybe diagnose the problem.

Pull the thermostat and test it in boiling water to see if it works. Might as well test the temperature sender as well. One thing at a time, evaluate, repair and move on.

Now what about the steering? Anything look wrong?