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Posts posted by Ex Member
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For 5600UKP, you could get fully custom, new and unbreakable axles.
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Hmmmm, where do the transfer case and gearbox shifters go????
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While on the subject, this is another vendor of double beadlocks, http://www.usa6x6.com/products_and_service...ock_wheels.html
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I assume you are talking about a diesel. The fuel filters are too fine to allow for a cleanable design. In fact, what you should be doing is retrofitting a better than stock filter. A 2 micron filter is much better than anything LR has put in stock and can be purchased cheaply from any of the major filter manufacturers quite cheaply. This extends injector and pump life appreciably.
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What the installation pictures were not enough
Just like hummer wheels. Haven't you seen a hummer??
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Yes, don't do the math, because it means the axles should be 1.5" minimum to take a locked wheel with full engine torque. Imagine how big it needs to be "theoretically" with a real engine and serious gearing.
Be careful in first low and locked......
On your fatique discussion, remember most loading is at very low stress. Also there is not a stress cycle with each wheel revolution so the cycle level is actually very low. The fatique discussion in this application is really a discussion over low cycle fatique.
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1541 is a plain carbon steel, not an alloy steel.
1541 is a Carbon-Manganese steel, not technically "plain carbon steel"
15xx mean it is a 1.5% Mn steel
xx41 mean is have 0.4% carbon
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engineers......practicality
Bwahahahahaha... You really shouldn't use those words in the same sentence. There was a time long ago that an Engineer was mandated to work in the field and learn about real life. But that time has long passed. Finding an engineer that know anything practical is nearly impossible. It is a sad sad state of affairs and really makes me embarrassed to be one.
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Of limited practical value. How do you carry the floatation devices when you leave the water and want to drive overland? If you never want to leave the water you would be better off with a proper boat.
bill.
It is just a publicity stunt Bill. Don't take it too seriously.
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Hey Paul..... What is that stuff in your avatar?????????
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Strangely enough, if I am reading in between the lines correctly, I suspect all of these 300M/4340 CVs are coming out of the same factory in the USA.
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Or you could just go to Ashcrofts for their 4340 shafts and CVs......
Of course, but for 685 UKP wersus $650 USD. So the Ashcroft ones are around twice the cost.
I should add, if you don't get around outside of the Rover world, Longfield is very well respected and well known. They have produced 1000s of their 300M/4340 CVs for the Toyota market. Longfield
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You shouldn;t need propshafts. Hust have the pinion flanges modified. As I understand it, you just need to fabricate all of the suspension linkage points.
"Maggott4x4" in Aussyland has recently done this.
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These are quite different. The current Rovertracks shafts are made by Moser and are just high strength steel. These new ones are 4340 and made by Longfield. Lifetime guarantee. They will be much stronger than the R&P.
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Looking through the catalog, the cheapest, smallest switch that will do the job is the TV-3S, $7.75 a pop, nice and compact.
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You can see a full range of switches and everything else here As you can see they are A LOT cheaper than the price quoted to you above. The one at the top looks like an MJTV-3, $13.30 US direct.
They are the Clippard brand. You should be anle to find suppliers easily enough in the UK.
I think the MD ones are FV-3P, $14.75 a pop.
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So is there any good reason to keep the dust shields for the inside of disc brakes? All they seem to do is collect mud and stones and drive you nuts when a little rock jams in there and squeeks away.
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I don't think anyone disagrees that a double beadlock is not better, but a normal single beadlock is much cheaper and it is quite rare that you drop a bead with one.
Make sure that you purchase ones that have a formed ring in the shape of the bead. This ensures that the outer bead self centers when you bolt it up. Many cheap versions do not use these and you get wobbly tyres.
Allied's beadlocks are probably the best pricey quality wheel available easily in the Rover pattern, http://www.high-impact.net/wheels/index.htm
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One thing about that photo, they seems to be a fairly wide wheel for the tyre. A narrower wheel certainly helps keep the beads on.
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That plus the huge backspacing and wrong bolt pattern.
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Normally rims have a safety bead on the inside. This normally prevents the inner bead from popping off. Also most forces are from the outside in. And third, the single beadlock prevents the tyre from spinning on the rim which is a big problem without.
Double beadlocks are better, but pricey, unless you can fit stock Hummer rims.
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Funny some of the comments against Detroits. I fitted one to the rear of my 90 around 4 months ago. It was cheap ($250 USD), so I thought I would try. I have never experienced any clanging or banging. There is no more slop in the driveline than before (was a stock 4 pinion, 24 spline diff). I notice no difference on road or off (other than more traction), although I haven't been doing anything extreme since I got it. I have attemped to throw it off by taking the worst lines I could find, but nothing strange has happened yet. It will be insteresting to see how things go once winter arrives.
Rather than weld, it would seem better to get a Dana 60 spool. Easily available for fairly low cost.
Lower door seal rubbers
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
So what are people's secret easy ways to install these *&^#*&%^#*%# things? The holes never line up. I suppose a decent punch to make holes that match the sill?