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Yes, it is not real. It was just a fabricated example of what it may look like. To produce that would be very expensive if even possible. I'm not sure what the point was either than to confuse everyone.
The best reasonable test is to compare response times inserting TCs of different sizes into a stable gas stream similar to exhaust. My plan if I get time would be to use a propane torpedo heater and data log the measured TC whe putting it into the exhaust stream.
No diesel was burned in the production of this fiction. -
Put the pinions closer together. There is a fair difference in diameter at the root of the gears.
edit: I'm guessing the 3.54 pinion is 30 to 40% bigger in diameter. Tooth load (not stress) is proportional to contact radius.
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???? Are you showing the comparison of the same units?
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If I read KAM's site correctly, they make them all to fit Series diffs and thus need a spacer for coiler diffs. I thus assume the one Dave showed is a KAM unit.
The M-D units are made for coiler diffs so are wider.
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Well, yes, it needs to be thicker as the pinion is smaller. It is the little pinion that is the problem.
How about a picture of the pinions side by each.
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i.e 7.50" wide and 7.50" tall on a 16 " rim
That is not really true. According to BS AU 50, 1, 2.1, 1991 (British Standard for Tyres and Wheels), I love the fact that your standards are called "BS".......
Anywho according to that standard a 7.5x16 tyre is 8.3" wide and 31.7" tall. That makes it a 210/95R16..... I think the intent was that the tread is 7.5" wide, whereas the metric specs use widest crosssection.
Didn't you know I have a web page for every stupid little fact!!!
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The R&P will be the weak point pegged or not.
The same thing has just happened with the Toyota crowd. They have built 4340/300M CVs and 4340 shafts and people are not breaking them. The R&Ps are now the first thing to go. This makes everyone happy as R&P strength is long since well understood from rear axle use.
Basically, this should make the front axle as strong as a built rear axle, which is a good thing, IMHO. You just need to understand the limits of the center section and spline size. Realistically this should get you basically unbreakable up to 35" maybe 36" (with a pegged diff).
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Not convinced you'll gain much by it. If you use it regularly, the brake won't seize up and I doubt there is enough sun in the UK to worry the rope.
If your out winching every week sure, but the average Joe does not winch very often. Most winches sit around for the ocassional use and all of those 8274 have brakes that are siezed open.
I think a few dollars for some vinyl isn't going to break the bank.
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The flip side is that once it all gets wet underneath the cover (like if you splash through a bit of deep water) it will take a lot longer to ever dry out if covered up whereas if out in the open, it will dry off relatively quickly.
Bwahahahahaha, not in the UK.....
After a run, hose it down and let it dry, retension the rope, THEN put the cover on.......
The cover obviously comes off at the beginning of a run.
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Yes, if your truck is left outside. If you are CB, you could make one or get one made. Vinyl is cheap.
Other than the rope, it is important to keep the rain out of the brake. All the brake bits are in the open and have no sealing. When the rust gets at it, no more brake.
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Oh, OK. Just bump the motor, It works fine. IMHO, it should be left under some tension so that the brake is engaged. This helps prevent water from getting into the moving parts of the brake.
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When storing the cable back on the drum it's comfortable to manually freespool,so you pay out exactly and precisely what you need and secure the hook to the winch recovery point and have a nicely tensioned wire...or,at least this is my experience.
?????? OK, I can not quite see what you are doing. Freespooling is for letting line out. How does that affect putting it back on the drum.
To tension the rope to the drum, hook the rope to an anchor and pull the vehicle to the anchor with a little brake applied or up a slight grade. To leave it tensioned, hook it to the vehicle anchor and bump the winch motor until it has tensioned....
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If the drum bearings are not aligned properly, the bearing drag can add significantly to the other resistances making it difficult to rotate the drum in free spool.
That is certainly another potential problem but would be more related to the straightness of the mount and the install. The tie bars are to prevent binding under high load, not light freespooling.
IME, if the brake is free and smooth, it engages easily and pulling on the rope to freespool out is enough to cause it to engage.
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If you measure the loaded radius carefully, you can estimate the rolling circumference. Measure from the ground to the center of the drive member (on a flat surface). Multiply this by 2 and then by pi to get the rolling circumference.
A better way is put a mark on the side of the tyre where is touches the road and on the road. Have someone drive slowly forward and count out say 5 revolutions. Measure the road distance travelled. Make sure the road is fairly smooth and flat, say a parking lot.
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If you go to BFGs site, they list revolutions per mile for all of their tires. That gives you the data you need, but as stated, different brands vary.
http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/bfgapp/index.jsp
235/70/16: 712 revs/mile
235/85/16: 650 revs/mile
285/75/16: 628 revs/mile
35x12.5x15: 598 revs/mile
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My opinion is that if you get tired changing gears, you should get an automatic..............
Just shift to 4th. It is a stronger gear anyway. Leave 5th for the flats, that is the point of the gear to begin with.
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With the crawler gears 5th low and 1st are basically the same, so there is some overlap. IMO, shifting the transger box is no big deal. You can't shift the main box (or shouldn't) on a hill anyway.
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Yes, but the inflated circumference of the tyre will not give the correct values. You need the rolling radius or rolling circumference which is quite bit smaller.
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You either need a roll bar sitting farther out than the snorkel or the snorkel needs to sit closer in than the body. Wider tyres really help keep the trees away.
I would have lost a snorkel on this one.
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Ummm, Will, he has an LT230. Remember LT85......
Nice long post though
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My answer is you should not be out wheeling by yourself.
Seriously, power out in one hand. Pull the rope in the other and lay it on the ground. Once enough is out, take the hook to the anchor.
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I guess I should ask why? If you are trying to figure out gearing, this measurement is of no use. You need loaded radius.
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FYI, Jim Marsden is going to introduce a kit that allows you to dissengage the drum from the gearbox. I can see that will be a very popular mod.
Eeek
How is he going to do that safely? Be interesting to see.
I don't see the point. If I take a normal low mount winch on freespool, you can not pull it out faster than the 8274 can power out.
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I would be concerned about losing air flow to the fan. A snorkel is much, much smaller than the intake to the fan. I'm thinking you would need a 4" tube to get in the ballpark.
what one is better
in International Forum
Posted
I use the Exide ones in parallel. Too lazy to hook up a split charge. Should be similar to the Optima D34M.
Not quite current picture as the winch is hooked up now. This is the same battery as your first picture, just a Canadian rebranded jobby.