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Hi Michele,
That should hopefully help you understand how the brake works. I think it may help if the brake spring is newish as that will require more load from the drum to engage the brake. In any case, I agree that powering out is the best alternative. It is just as fast as someone pulling out a cable and really it is easier.
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Yes, well, Ian and I disagree on this and have in the past.
I told him that by the time you slow down and pull over to fill up the EGT is safely low (say 30 seconds). He says it isn't from his experience. I say his TC is too big..........
I'll have to run a test to convince you guys. Really I do run non steady state heat transfer and temperature testing all the time. A 6 mm is too slow to respond for this application.
Trust me that a 3mm is more than strong enough to last forever in this application. I run that size in much much more severe conditions ALL of the time.
Hey it is your turbos, you do what you want with them. Personally, if I was going to play with fueling or boost, I would want to know what the real peak temperature is. This means full throttle AT PEAK POWER for sustained periods. Personally, I would run a bare ended TC during testing.
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They don't actually say much about what it does...but it looks like it achieves pretty much that same as siggy is planning?
It is a thermostatically controlled, electrically powered washer fluid heater. The problem with using coolant to heat it is the washer fluid will evaporate.... You see in places that are cold, you don't use water in the washer tank but an methanol based fluid that doesn't freeze. It also evaporates easier.
A possible good cheap solution would be to run a little tubing in the air ducting after the heater matrix. This shouldn't be too hot and will only be hot when the heater is going.
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Halifax, paw... They don't get cold.
In Saskatchewan, they don't say "minus" when telling the temperature after mid-October. It is just assumed. So the forecast will say todays high is 10 and the low is 25. Seriously.
Heated jets are just to keep them from freezing over. Here is a serious product.....
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You guys are funny. It doesn't get cold enough in the UK to need such things.
Come on over and try -40 C and we can start talking.
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OK, so 3 seconds to change 12.6 C with a 20C step input into water. Keep in mind that water is a much better heat transfer fluid than the exhaust gas.
So let's say you start at idle, EGT is 150C you pin the throttle for a steep climb on your modified diesel. The EGT (actual) heads for 800 C very quickly. Your 6mm thermocouple won't even reach 700 within a minute. Personally, I don't think I could find a hill long enough to have a 6mm TC settle out at max throttle.
Normally how long are you using full throttle? 20 seconds, 30 seconds. You will never see the peaks. Really a bare TC, would be best for testing purposes if you are modifying the fueling or boost.
One of these days when I'm bored, I'll run a test on 6mm and 3mm and plot the response rate for you guys. I do lots of testing that involve temperature measurement. For the response time in this application, I would be testing with a bare TC and using a 3mm for monitoring. A 6mm would be completely out of the question.
What scares me is that many people are out there playing with there injection pumps and turbos and have know real idea what is happening to there EGTs.
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A type K thermocouple will always give the same reading. They do not need to be calibrated. For a presise measurement you need a cold junction reference, but this is not a laboratory setting.
And yes, 0.8 seconds and 3 seconds for what???
Like I have said before, 6mm is too big. You will miss the important peaks. There is no reason for one either. A bare 3mm TC will last forever in this application.
Keep in mind that the TC itself is a very tiny bonding of two metals near the tip. The 3mm and 6mm stuff of simply stainless steel tubing over top of the TC and the TC wiring.
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Sure, ignore it.
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I'm sure the WRs will be better in snow and ice.
The Vatiivas are not sold in Finland (it might be an old model). Finish Site.
I don't know anyone with the Vatiivas, so can not be of any help. I know lots of people with WRs, and they are all happy. The only Discovery owner I know with Nokians has a second set of studded 10LTs, but that is not what you really need.
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I think Land Rover is making up words. "Loadage"
is not a word used for coil springs. Like stated, it must refer to the maximum load acceptable on the spring. Bush65 has it all correct. -
Unless it gets cold where you live. Where do you live?
In places that see below freezing...
Engine: 5W-40 synthetic ACEA E5 or API CI-4.
Gearbox: ATF or better to use a low viscosity MTF.
All others 75W-90 gear oil.
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NGK Iridiums are the best. You asked for the best, so don't complain about the cost.
But yes, the NGK V-grooves will work just as well in a Rover V8 although the Iridiums should last forever.
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The owner is a Land Rover enthusiast also.
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The nuts are 7/16" UNC.
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How are you finding the wheelbase ? A little short ?
Not until he flips it on a climb.
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The rubber cap.
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I use Contura III rocker switches. They are waterproof and have a modular design. They can by on/off, on/off/on, monetary, with or without light(s). They gang together. Really very nice and not expensive. Theya re the same ones used by ARB for their switches.
This is the manufacturer's page.
These are a couple on my dash.
I bought them from Waytek, http://www.waytekwire.com/
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Sure, lots of gauges for air pressure. Many use the VDO Vision series. They have a 150 psi mechanical one.
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?????? On a 90, the only thing you can adjust is the Toe. It looks like they changed castor and camber, which is not possible.
I would be asking what they did. You can do the Toe adjustment yourself, very simple.
Castor is usually low due to a lift. There are fixes but that involves modification.
Camber can only change if the axle is bent.
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Does a Rangie EFI fuel tank actually need to be vented?
I am trying to make my vehicle safe in the event of a rollover and don't want petrol leaking out everywhere!
Yes, but all modern vents have little pressure relief valves in them. They shouldn't leak liquid in a rollover.
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No, you need to add it yourself. A bit of Aluminium welding required.
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it's not so much the front facia dimensions that are the problem but more the depth. They're quite deep at 125mm to mount on top of the dash. If I were to mount ontop can you program the actual brightness of the LED display so it's not in your face over powering?
Where are you looking at installing your unit when you go down that route?
I had a quick read of the manual. There is no mention of brightness adjustment.
I'm planning on mounting in the center gauge area (middle lower part of the dash). There is lots of depth there. It may depend on how new your Defender is as they have done many different things in that area over the years.
One other thing. The model I quited does not appear to have the relay outputs. You need to get that as an option which increases the price somewhat.
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For a 6mm TC, that response rate seems normal. There is nothing you can do but put in a smaller one. A 3mm unit will repsond 4 times faster. Ther eis no need for a 6mm unit, a 3mm 304 or 316SS sheathed type K TC will last forever in that application.
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I recently installed the Thermoguard EGT kit and am very pleased with it. The min/max function is good as it means you don't have to watch it all the time to know what peaks it is reaching. My highest so far is 609, that was after about a minute and a half full throttle up a steepish hill in 4th.
Not to bash that system, but I would seriously suggest using a 3mm thermocouple and not a 6mm one as is in that kit. The thermal inertia of a 6mm TC is too high to see short term peak.
I design/build/operate high temperature process equipment for a living and this includes running a lot of test equipment so have a very good feeling for the reponse time of a thermocouple. 3mm is perfectly adequate for this installation and will give much better response.
is not a word used for coil springs. Like stated, it must refer to the maximum load acceptable on the spring. Bush65 has it all correct.
Simexs (well big tyres) and gearing
in International Forum
Posted
Why do you think it is overgeared? Is 5th too high to use? I doubt it with 300 hp. If you come to a hilll, shift to 4th and you get 5th for the flats and lower noise and better mileage. As long as 1st high is low enough to start under any road circumstances and you can use 5th on the flats, then leave it alone. I never understand why people think that if they have to shift to 4th on a hill they are overgeared.
A 4.1 r&p will be weaker than stock and that is not what you need.
If it were me, I would get the Ashcroft crawler gears. You would have a lovely choice of gears and definitely be low enough off road for any situation.