Ex Member
-
Posts
3,446 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
15
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Ex Member
-
-
Be aware that this gives a non-linear clutch feel. There is less force when depressed than at the top with a distinct transition. Personally, I don't like it. You get used to it, but a normal clutch with a slight increase in pressure with travel is easier to modulate.
-
On 10/13/2019 at 6:22 AM, cackshifter said:
If you have adequate vocabulary, the dexterity of a brain surgeon and the strength of king Kong you can do it in situ. If you take the clutch pedal box out it's easy to do on the bench, but then you have to bleed the clutch, and there is more work overall.
You can take the pedal box out while leaving the master cylinder connected in the engine bay.
-
3 hours ago, derodster said:
Its the standard LT77 + lt230 I believe.
In 1985, there were also LT95s.
If you want to find the correct wire, look up the colour in the manual and search for that.
-
3 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Could just be that LR's are so agricultural no-one notices
No. They make no noise. They have no play. They are preloaded. You can tell they are there as the self centering increases under power and they pull slightly if one tire is lower pressure than the other.
13 hours ago, Snagger said:...but there were a lot of complaints about chattering and side gear play even on new units. The bigger units LRs use may be stronger and better made.
Really sounds like they are not talking about TTs, but normal plate type LSDs. I also have friends with Wranglers that run them. No noise, no play.
Detroits have some play and you can hear them click if you listen.
-
1 hour ago, Badger110 said:
When you look at single piece doors, the cappings are obviously not there.
Early doors (83 to 85 or so) have trim on the one piece doors that matches the cappings on the split doors. It looks a lot better...
-
What transfer case are we talking about?
-
I know people that have run TTs for 30 years in Defenders. Never seen a failure or loss of performance. Bought and installed used ones. No signs of wear when disassembled. I'm sure they are stronger than any halfshafts you can get.
In the Rover style of TT, there are coned washers between the thrust bearings. They have thrust bearings in the center between the side gears that are locked to the casing. The springs push the side gears out to the casing. The casing sides do not have thrust bearings. The idea of direction is to have the thrust force when driving forward to the center.
https://discoweb.org/oldsite/truetracgears/index.htm
It is beyond me how Ashcroft could have messed up the design of springs (Belleville washers). Everything you need to know about sizing them has been known a lot longer than any of us have been around.
-
I should add that the cappings do not sit tight to the doors. They are spaced up around 3 mm. Without them the windows will sit low.
-
23 hours ago, Badger110 said:
I'd kinda agree but on a modern defender, the cappings are going to look abit out of place
How. The tub has cappings that are the same so you get a clean line fromt he door to the back of the vehicle. The newer doors without cappings look strange. The earlier one piece door had trim that looked like the cappings.
-
On 2/11/2020 at 7:04 AM, Eightpot said:
The seal should cover that bit though, but regardless, they'd look daft without the capping..
No. It won't. I'm putting together a set of door right now. Trust me. You need the cappings.
-
You need the cappings. The skins do not go over the top of the door frame. Without them water can get behind the skin. Make sure you get galvanized ones.
-
3 hours ago, miketomcat said:
And they rattle, leak and are drafty but I love ours.
They should not do any of those things.
-
1
-
-
6 hours ago, Badger110 said:
However, does anyone know of a single piece door with sliding windows? Or could they be retro fitted from an older door?
There is no such thing as a single piece door with sliding windows.
-
If you don't want remote interior latches, yes. If you want the remote interior latches, then they are rocking horse poo.
The bottom parts are all available everywhere and cheap. The Defender tops are not available new. You can get Series style ones though. Fortunately galvanized ones just came out as well.
https://www.sp-4x4.com/DEFENDER_2_PIECE_DOOR_CONVERSION_s/140.htm
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
You're assuming someone's using a full tank of electricity every day there. 100kWh is enough to do a lot of miles.
No I was not assuming that. It was an example. You can apply the appropriate math to your own situation.
-
4 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
...perhaps I am mixing up with the LT230).
LT230 diffs are a different story. They have an inherent oil supply problem at high speed. There is no real fix available. If you get any real amount of differentiation while it is spinning fast, it will cook from running dry.
-
1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:
I was sure Soren had a failure of the bronze shims in one of his ATBs, but can't seem to find it.
The first one was a dirt contamination problem. Not the diff.
Second one was not the axle at all but the suspension.
Third, 37 pages. Did not see the issue with a quick look.
That is the problem with people stating conclusions without first a proper investigation. Then the statements get taken out of context and it develops a life of its own.
Back to this topic. "My" point is that is does not make sense to buy a new genuine diff. It will be expensive. It will not be as durable as one of these and it will not be as good off road. The only low cost option is a used unit. That would then have unknown reliability.
-
2 hours ago, Cynic-al said:
... so the cost is more based on how many panels to get your 100kw charge and their life span.
So a 100 kW-h charge. Let's say you live somewhere sunny. Best case, average 8 hours at capacity. 100kw-h / 8 hours = 12.5 kW of panels, to support the one car being charged once per day.
Say about 15000 pounds for a grid tie system of that size. 20000 for off grid. Then 5 to 10% annual cost for replacement and degradation.
-
18 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
....their ATB has had a few failures on here that were unexpected.
Do you have a link to this?
-
19 hours ago, deep said:
I have heard that a front ATB diff has a slight self-centring effect, which overcomes the drag of a steering damper somewhat. Does anybody have any experience of that?
Yes, when on power. They will also tell you when the tire pressures are not even side to side. They pull to the lower side.
-
1
-
-
18 hours ago, deep said:
I've always thought Trutracs were made in the U.S.A.. I was quite surprised to see the one in that picture is Taiwanese. There's that global economy thing again! I do fancy one of those.
They are currently made in Poland. It makes more sense to get an Ashcroft ATB, though, if buying new.
-
Okay. I give up. You clearly do not want to discuss options rationally but are stuck in a one track thought process and not really listening to what I'm saying. If you are only spending hundreds you will be purchasing unreliable parts.
FYI, I live in Canada. 100% of the parts I buy are air shipped.
Making axles stronger does not lead to the gearbox breaking. That whole thought process is completely incorrect.
-
The first number is its cold temperature viscosity rating. 10W is -25C, 15W is -20C and so on. So all that matters is that you are not cold starting below the rating.
The second number is viscosity at running temperature (100 C). Use a 40.
Always use a diesel engine specific oil. They are designed to manage the soot.
Always change before the soot content gets to 0.5%. The only way to know that is by oil analysis. A well tuned TDI should make 15000 km. The smokyer you are the quicker it happens.
A synthetic is probably not much help unless you are going for the long change intervals or you need a wide viscosity range.
-
1
-
-
Why order parts before inspecting? If the halfshafts are out, it is 30 minutes to pull the center. You don't need a mechanic.
Also... New genuine parts will be more expensive than the upgraded aftermarket parts, so going genuine makes even less sense. The only "cheap" route is second hand parts or aftermarket pattern parts. Both of those options are not going to put you back into the making it 250k without an issue camp.
Clutch assist spring
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
LOF reported the other day that they have been having issues. They just got in a new batch that they say solves the issue. I would contact them for a replacement.