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Personally, I would do an Ashcroft ATB while there and change to 24/23 spline halfshafts and 23/24 CV joints. That will be good forever if you made it this far on the stock carp.
Since the R&P will be destroyed, you might as well bring in a complete built center from Nigel. A stock R&P should be fine without pegging.
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3 hours ago, L19MUD said:
Masai do an electric window kit. I have just bought it and looks decent
That is just stock genuine parts for later style doors.
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Yes. 60 km range while driving 40 km/h. Really cracked it.
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The 65A units are a better design as well as having more output. It is worth getting one.
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The battery replacement cost is what kills an electric car.
Failing electronics will kill all modern cars. Although someone "could" develop replacement controllers and parts for a 20 year old device, it is unlikely it will occur.
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15 minutes ago, Snagger said:
I haven’t had to buy any parts in five years now.....
Being in Canada, we bring in parts continually. Nearly every week for local owners. We see everything from all brands and are clear on all warranty claims.
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Bad spray pattern, low compression, retarded timing.
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You need to use the arms on the new axles. The arms on your 1987 are a different size. Be aware that front articulation will be reduced.
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4 minutes ago, Litch said:
Are they from a 90 or 110? I know the Salisbury wasn't used on the TDCi 110's but I don't know if the HD axle that they did use has a longer nose?
The 110/130 axles use the P38 diff in the rear, which has a SHORTER nose, not longer.... Worse design, not better....
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2 hours ago, geoffbeaumont said:
That assumes the other components are sufficiently long lived and/or reasonably priced, though. It's never been the drive train that's forced me to replace a car. Even the last Honda (which was a well built, reliable bit of kit) became uneconomical at thirteen years old due mainly to the cost of replacing worn suspension bushes.
Something wrong with your Honda. I have one from 1988 and the suspension bushings are all original and in perfect condition, along with the engine. Rust is the only issue. Beyond rust, it is always cheaper to fix a vehicle than buy a new one. Except for European cars which are money pits before 15 years.
As to brakes... On all vehicles with sliding calipers, you are supposed to take the calipers off every second service and lubricate the components and ensure the pistons are free. It is not only electric cars.
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4 hours ago, Snagger said:
Maybe, but I don’t think so. I have experienced the same as many on here reported - “G” suffixed parts that were the same dire quality as their regular parts at inflated price, and most certainly not comparable to Gen Parts components.
There are many genuine parts today that are complete carp. Personally, I've not seen an example where a genuine parts was any better or different than an OEM.
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https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/Webasto_Heater_Thermo_Top_V_Workshop_Manual.pdf
Pretty sure they still power up as normal with 12V to pin 2. No need for the Can bus. See page 702 for the basic timer hookup.
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18 minutes ago, malce said:
Hi just bought a thermotop V and just want to turn it on/off via a remote control, any idea how easy it is, I have the fuel pump so hopefully just a few more bits.
You just need to supply 12V, so very easy.
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Are you doing the head bolts correctly?
Your third to last picture looks blown from the cylinder into the adjacent block side coolant opening.
The restriction on the push rod side coolant ports is to ensure most of the flow is across the exhaust ports. The small flow on the push rod side is just to prevent stagnation on that side of the head. and that is why using silicone is a really bad idea. It breaks off and plugs those ports.
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But Suzuki sells many small cars. Land Rover only sells huge things. Something does not add up. The Jimny itself has less fuel consumption than everything Land Rover sells.
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So how does Land Rover get by? They can't have a better fleet CO2 level than Suzuki.
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Sweet. Maybe this is what they need to start selling in North America again.
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Britpart and Bearmach are parts wholesalers. The parts all come from the same places. For important parts, buy OEM ones. Both Bearmach and Britpart sell OEM or most things.
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Some parts are very expensive. The only reasonable path is with a second hand engine....
https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/err1274-timing-case-200tdi.html
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1) Wowa is missing the triangular spacer plate as western pointed out at the beginning of the thread. This is causing the alignment problem. The missing part is ERR1264. It is available and not expensive. See attached diagram.
2) The adjuster is installed incorrectly.
3) I can only assume the other bolts must not be installed in the alternator/PS pump bracket that go into the timing case as they would not line up.
Perhaps Wowa will return one day and clarify...
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Is the bottom of the bracket attached to the block/ladder frame? I can't see how the bolts would line up with the spacer missing.
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Yes, looks like the rear bolt in not in or not in correctly. The adjuster looks wrong as well.
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Hard to see. You need to take pictures of the mount area. Something looks strange as the alternator ear should be in front of the black mount.
New front Diff options - 2006 TD5
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Okay. Just be aware those halfshafts are tiny at the CV and will be your next failure. The original 1991 axle was a better design. Carry spare halfshafts and CVs. It just seems like a waste of money if you are paying someone to do all this and put stock parts back in. They will fail again.
Have you got it apart yet? I would not be surprised if the whole center is unusable.