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Next year they are releasing pictures. Production for 2021.
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Just buy new ones. They are really low cost.
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They don't have easy recycling in the UK. That amazes me.
Do you understand the purpose of the urea?
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Return the alternator.
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Sounds like two unrelated faults then. Just a coincidence.
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The oil light circuit is very simple. Switched power to the light. Other side of light ot the oil pressure switch. The switch grounds on low oil pressure. Disconnect the wire from the switch and the light should turn off. If not, there is a wiring issue. If it does turn off, either the switch is bad or the oil pressure is low.
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Is the charge light turning on with the ignition? If so, disconnect the charge light wire from the alternator. It should then go out. This will prove if the wiring is correct.
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You will need to talk to your local supplier. They will know the correct one.
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I would get this one. https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/prod_5497988-Uprated-Billet-HYBRID-Turbo-CHRA-Core-465171-465175-Land-Rover-Defender-Discovery-200TDi-Turbocharger-Cartridge.html
This is the regular one: https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/prod_3501596-Genuine-Melett-UK-Turbo-CHRA-Garrett-TB02-TB0243-4438540033-fits-465171-4651750001-LANDROVER-200-Tdi-25D.html
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Do you have the nuts off? If so, yes, tap the housing and it should work loose.
It is a good time to drill and tap the manifold for an EGT gauge if you ever want one.
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5 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
I agree. While we as enthusiasts might consider the Defender shape iconic. It isn't, not even in Land Rover's own line up as the shape hails from the 1958 Series II, which was in itself just largely a restyling of the Series 1, which as you point out was based and a re-imaged version of the Jeep MB.If Land Rover were still producing the Defender (no, not the new Pretender). Then maybe their claim was more legit. But clearly as a company themselves they didn't consider it iconic
enough to persevere with it. The new version looks nothing like the original.
JLR were attempting to trademark not only the Defender shape, but all Land Rovers back to the Series 1.
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Yes, you need to remove the pulley and knock the front casing loose to rotate.
Or you could just buy a 100A alternator already setup for a 200TDI Defender. They are available and not expensive.
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Obviously..... The point being is that an MOT is meaningless. The UK car market is a bunch of criminals.
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MOT means nothing. I've seen many UK trucks arrive with current MOTs with chassis that you can put your arm in.
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They are there because Land Rover put them there. There is no more logic than that. Maybe someone in the factory in the 80s could come up with one, but even that is doubtful. The parts catalogues are only a good 90% accurate. Land Rover and quality control are not to be used in the same paragraph.
The big question is why you care? If they are rusty buy a set of stainless ones.
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7 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
These are pretty unique to the US market and were not sold elsewhere.
They were also sold in Japan.
Back to the original question. Buy from a dry part of mainland Europe. There are a few trustworthy companies with a lot of exporting experience.
UK Defenders are mostly horribly rotten and it is nearly impossible to find a trustworthy person to purchase from. Really there is nothing wrong with driving a RHD truck. But the UK is a bad place to get one. South Africa or Australia are a lot better.
I would not suggest looking for a BATUS truck from Canada. They are mostly in very bad condition. I live close to the base and there are hundreds of them running around and have seen many at the auctions. Maybe once they start to part with the Wolfs it will be a different story.
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See if either of these are right.
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The 720 number is the continuous maximum specified by Garret for their turbos. Nobody really knows what is the safe maximum. A lot of people run much higher and are not destroying the engines. 720 is probably a nice safe temperature to run fall of the time.
What boost are you running?
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Yep. Never ever had an issue opening and closing doors while sitting on two wheels.
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2 hours ago, blowmeover said:
No , but my point was if its being backfed by something else.
How? It is a simple and completely isolated system. Switch to motor directly. There is no way for it to cross feed with anything.
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IMO, you are best to remove the whole thing with manifold and oil cooler lines. Then change the cartridge on the bench.
I would also get new OEM oil cooler hoses and a quality (Lemforder) manifold gasket. You will need the turbo to manifold gasket as well. If in a hurry, buy studs and nuts for the manifol to turbo connection. You can leave the turbo exhaust outlet in place.
Seized nuts and broken studs are common.
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On 10/27/2019 at 11:00 AM, mmgemini said:
I too remember having to remove the Defender steering arm. A tip from Steve Graham was to use two hammers with the box off the car. Yep the thing just fell off.
Sure, but taking the box off of the car is a lot of work. These pullers will get them off in place.
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It is also in the workshop manual. It says 0.030 mm (0.012") maximum.
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You don't need M18 bar. It is not a lot of pressure. You need to be very careful not to spread too much. In fact, there is a very clearly specified maximum spread that is allowed to prevent the damage. You are only spreading enough to remove the side gear preload.
Read this: https://www.randysworldwide.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Dana_Spicer_Housing_Spreader.pdf
No more than 0.015" housing spread.
200tdi injection pump
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Paddocks? That won't improve things!