MikeAK

Rang Leyand Paints tech advice line today. They stated their floor paint can be used when floor moisture content is less than 8%. So I will monitor it with a damp meter and wait til its been consistently below 8% at several points across the floor for several days. Mike

Hi, Thanks for the info. 28 days is shorter than I was expecting, which is good news. I had been looking at the Leyland trade floor paint, so that's what I'll go with. It's stocked at my local hardware suppliers as as well which makes life easier. Mike

Ok radiator out and flushed it is then. Thanks for the cam recommendation, are you using standard lifters? From linked website "Can be used with standard OE lifters however, for better performance consider Rhoads Bleed Down Anti-Pump lifters" Will be using ARP studs, if they don't require re-torquing how do they maintain clamping force as the head gasket "settles"? I thought stretch bolts did this by acting as a spring or more traditional studs/bolts had to be re-torqued after a few hundred miles? Thanks Mike

Hi, As the title I'm looking for recommendations for concrete floor paint for my garage please. It's being screeded this Saturday. It will be between 50mm and 100mm laid on an existing uneven and rough, but sound concrete floor. How long do I need to let it cure before painting? Thanks Mike

Finally got some time on this again yesterday. All back together and and running a lot better but still not right. Now the very loud clacking from the rocker has gone I can hear other rumbles etc. Also still struggling to pass MOT on emissions, although vastly better HC still to high and slight visible blue smoke when revved for fast idle test. So as I've decided this is a keeper, I'm going to pull the engine out and do a proper re-build. So a few more questions! Will the manifolds clear the bulkhead if the engine is removed with all the front ancillaries removed but the radiator still in place? I ask because it looks like it might be a bit tight and the right hand manifold looks a pig to get off in the car. Anyone got suggestions for a better camshaft? FridgeFreezer has already recommended a "Stump Puller" which I will be looking at. I want something that is still drive-able for road use, green lane etc. I am looking using ARP head studs in the rebuild, what are peoples experience of these? As they are more "traditional" rather "stretch" bolts I assume they will need to be re-torqued after a period of running? Unfortunately none of this will happen for a few weeks as my garage floor is being screeded next weekend, then I want to paint it before putting everything back in. Thanks Mike

It will be weekend before I spend any time on it again, so I'll let it soak till then and see what happens. Mike

I put the head back on this last night and did a compression test. 5 and 7 are now up at 172 and 175 same as the rest but 3 is still a bit low at 150. A bit of oil down 3 and that was also mid 170s, so worn/stuck rings? But it's a distinct improvement on what it was, so I think I will put all back together and see if It will go through an MOT. If so at least I can use it and look for a second hand engine to rebuild properly. If it still fails I will put the car somewhere more convenient and and rebuild the current engine. Mike

Hi all, Been away from this for a few days. Had another quick look today, cleaned up the head and checked it for warping. Can't get a 0.05mm feeler between head and a straight edge anywhere so I think head is sufficiently straight? Put a 50/50 mix of petrol/ATF in the bores and that hadn't run away, or even dropped after best part of an hour so I think the rings are OK? Given the inlet valves are on 3 and 7 are leaking and I think I can see evidence on a leak (or the beginnings of one) on the gasket between 3 and 5 I think I will re-seat the valves and replace the broken rocker and re-fit the head. That will only cost a head gasket, bolts and rocker so not to bad if it doesn't work. With the head and rockers back on I'll spin it over and do a compression test again before building the rest back up. If at that point it has brought the pressures on 3,5, and 7 back up to the 170ish PSI of the rest, I'll put it all back together and give it a go. If not I'll have a think about replace or rebuild. Agreed second hand engine is quickest/easiest but have been down that road before (not in a Landrover) and ended up repairing the replacement 9 or so months down the road. Having rebuilt a few engines in the past, including RV8, I find it quite a therapeutic way to spend a few evenings in the garage. Also as Escape says a lot of satisfaction when it starts as well. Mike

Not sure about oil consumption. Car was dropped off at my house and I have only driven about a mile each way to MOT garage. No noticeable smoke from exhaust though.

Mine were not hard to drill at all, so assuming you have the standard bolts you should be OK. Centre punch the bolt head to get you started in the centre, the a pilot drill then size of the bolt shank (or very slightly less). The bolt head on mine cracked off slightly before I got to the bottom of the head, probably due to the cylinder head clamping force. Take it steady and you will be OK Mike

ThreePointFive I feel your pain, just had the same although only one bolt. FridgeFreezer has link to my thread on that with how I got it out. I only used a die grinder because I couldn't get a large enough drill in. If you have access the bolts were actually quite easy to drill so just drill down the centre of the bolt head to the depth of the head with the correct size of drill. Mike

It wasn't the sealing of the exhaust valve I was thinking of. The rocker has a significant dish in the end causing massive slack in the valve train hence the engine making a "clacking" noise. My train of thought was that significantly reduced valve opening on an inlet would restrict air intake and reduce compression pressure but reduced opening exhaust valve, which this rocker is on, would not. Since then I have put the head combustion chambers up on the bench and filled them with petrol. Cylinders 3 and 7 leaked away in about 5 minutes into the inlet ports so leaky inlet valves. 1 and 5 took significantly longer 15 mins and still not empty with no leakage visible in the ports so may have been evaporation rather than leakage, its warm today. Not sure if that's sufficient to account for the lack of compression on 3 and 7? At this point were it not for the oil in number 3 I would be tempted to re-seat the valves put a new head gasket and rocker in and give it try. But the oil in 3 concerns me. There are no oil ways near by so where is coming from? Only thing I can think of is piston rings, but would be happy to hear of another explanation. So a bit unsure on how to proceed now. By the way in the head gasket pictures number 1 is on the right. Thanks Mike

Yes Ed was definitely Righty tighty, lefty loosey 😄 Elbekko as soon as the bolts "cracked" they were easy to remove using fingers and look to be in good condition, the block threads also look perfect. It's as though the bolt head flanges were stuck to the head (the one I drilled/ground off definitely was). Maybe someone in the past used what they thought was lubricant under the bolt heads? It's a mystery. Fridgefreezer yes I've already been looking at those and will use them if I end up doing any sort of rebuild. Thanks everyone. Iv'e started a new thread in the RR forum now the head is off

Hi all, I have a p38 4.6 with engine problems. First some history. I bought this cheap with no MOT multiple electrical woes and a clacking engine (yes I'm mad). Took it for an MOT and it failed on a couple of ball joints, rear pads too low and emissions miles off - over 2000 HC and high CO. Fitted new ball joints and pads. Sorted the electrical problems. Then had a look at the emissions. The left hand Lambda sensor wires were mashed over where they entered the sensor (more bodgery/ham fistedness which seems to be common theme with this car). Replaced lambda sensor and took it for a re-test. Passed everything except emissions, which were better but still way off around 1500 HC. Maybe not surprising considering the clacking engine! So time to get into serious investigation. Did a compression test (cold so not ideal). Left bank 1 179 3 110 5 132 7 129 Right bank 2 171 4 176 6 173 8 179 Right bank looks OK assuming 170ish is OK? But left bank obviously has problems. So starting with the obvious problem the clacking sounded like a typical worn out camshaft lobe, so I pulled the plenum and took off the rocker covers. Exhaust on number 7 had shed loads of slack, all the rest seemed fine. So pulled the inlet manifold to look at the cam. The exhaust lobe on 7 looked fine and the lift on it was the same as a coupe of the other exhaust lobes, so not the cam. Next pulled the rockers and found a poorly rocker. I think that will account for the clacking. As its exhaust I don't think it would account for low compression (inlet might but not exhaust?) Next was to remove the LH cylinder head, I say remove "remove head" - see With the head finally off this is what I found. Number 3 definitely is not right, in the picture it looks a bit steam cleaned but actually it has an oil film on it. The plug on this was also a bit sooty compared to the rest. 5 and 7 don't look too bad. Bores look OK can't feel any wear ridge on 3 ,5, and 7 and only very slight on 1 using thumb nail (very scientific). Looking at the top of the head gasket there is slight discolouration between the cylinders, don't know if that means anything? So thoughts and suggestions please. Thanks Mike

The Head is off!! Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. Applied heat and hammered the bolt head with air chisel with blunt bit then hammered on 12 point socket followed by bolt extractor. Both just rounded off it off more. It really didn't want to move. Elbbeko's idea of removing engine mounts to get more clearance got me in there. Still not enough room to get a drill in, but enough to get a small pistol grip windy drill in. Max drill windy would take is 6mm so drilled down centre of head with that, then started opening it out with a die grinder bit. Only took about 2 hours! When I had ground enough away heard/felt the head crack off the bolt, weird thing is although the head was now free to lift of the bolt, the bolt head was still stuck to the cylinder head. I had to knock it off with a chisel. The bolt unscrewed with fingers once the head was off. No damage to cylinder head apart from a small nick from the die grinder on the edge of bolt hole. The bolt looks new, no corrosion and no locking agent that I can see. Complete mystery to as to what has happened here. All the other bolts were extremely tight, used a 3 foot breaker bar (didn't use the 5 foot again because I didn't want to round any more off). I have bruises on my chest from bracing against the slam panel whilst pulling with both hands. Only just managed to move them, and I'm not a little lad. I will post what I found in the RR forum with more requests for advice later. Thanks again Mike

Thanks for the suggestions. Simon, I will try to hammer on smaller socket/extractor tomorrow, didn't try today because the weather was turning. Also I thought it was better not to try at that point due to the mood I was in by then. Don't have much hope on either gripping as it wasn't moving with a 5 foot breaker, but will give it a try. Ed, pretty sure there is insufficient room to weld a larger nut on. Apart from the restricted access the bolt head is in a narrow well between the wall at the end of the head and an intake passage, but again will have a good look at that tomorrow. But I suspect Smallfry will turn out to be right and a PO has bodged it. I've also built a few V8s and had the heads off several more. Never come across a head bolt anything like this. If it was done by the same person who did some of the bodgetastic electrical repairs I've already sorted I wouldn't put anything past them! Thanks Mike

Hi All, This is in my P38 4.6 Range Rover but have put in International forum in the hope of more views as it's not Range Rover Specific. Trying to remove the LH cylinder head today and cannot shift one of the rear bolts. It's the one right at the back inboard side. I could not shift it at all and ended up using a 5 foot breaker bar. Despite using a single hex socket it has still rounded all the corners off the bolt head. Due to the position I cannot get a drill in to drill the head off the bolt as the bulkhead bulge prevents me getting anything in. So before I admit defeat and pull the engine out (really don't want to do this) and get it on the engine stand so I have more access, can anyone suggest a method to remove it? Thanks Mike

Fitted new sensor today, fault cleared and working correctly 😀 After taking it for a test drive I noticed a couple of drips of water on the drivers side tunnel so looks like I've got the dreaded leaking heater O rings. One of the blend motors is a bit sluggish as well so dash out next week to sort that. Mike

Well replacement ECU arrived today, fitted it and it was exactly the same - ABS fault still present on dash and Nanocom reading fault as "Front Right Wheel Sensor Open Circuit". So I investigated PROPERLY this this time rather than blindly believing the diagnostic kit. The sensor still read approx 995R same as the other sensors but it turned out to have a partial short circuit to chassis on one wire. The resistance to chassis is constantly wandering between 200R ish to 1K ish. Removed sensor from axle and it disappears so it the sensor not the wiring. With the sensor connected but danging in the air to isolate it from chassis the fault can be cleared. New sensor ordered. So when Nanocom says Open Circuit Sensor it really means Open circuit or short/leak to chassis or who knows what else. Moral of the story. Don't blindly believe the fault message but take the time to investigate properly using the fault information as a pointer. Mike.

I did check that sensor was seated properly and it does seem to be. The reason I suspect the ECU is that the fault reported is "Front Right Wheel Sensor Open Circuit" but it isn't it measures the same as the other 3 wheel sensors. I measured this right at the ECU plug which also eliminates the wiring. The fault is present at immediately the ignition is switched on and when cleared by Nanocom comes back immediately. If it was the sensor not seated properly and not seeing the reluctor ring the fault would not reappear until the vehicle was moving. At least that's my understanding of how it works, happy to be corrected by someone with more knowledge of the system though. Already ordered a second hand ECU from Ebay. Only £12 including postage, so worth having as a spare even if not needed. Mike

Had a look at the ABS Front Right Sensor today and it wasn't open circuit, measured about 990R at the plug on the inner wing. So plugged it back in and measured on the ECU connector same 990R. Measured all the others also at the ECU, all about the same value within 5R. So must be a faulty ECU? Second hand one ordered from Ebay will see what happens with that fitted next week. Mike

Iv'e found it! The rain rain stopped for a while so I had another go. The splice is at the bottom of the lower dash adjacent to the RHS of the tunnel near the heater outlet. The route the wires take is from the diag connector across the tunnel below/behind the heater (not sure how, didn't need to get in that deep) and emerges at the location in the pictures. The L-line splice is also very corroded but just about hanging together, so that will get replaced as well. Started raining again so it's tomorrows job now. Linked it all together with croc clip leads to try it and I can talk to all the ECUs now Mike

Elbekko, unfortunately not there is only one wire on each terminal in the diag connector and they disappear up behind the dash. I suspect the spice will be in the middle for the loom to branch off to the HEVAC unit. so if I run a new wire I will have to get into there anyway. I will just have to start digging into the dash when the weather picks up. I'm having to do this outside on the drive and rain has stopped play for today. Mike

Making some progress. As suggested I popped out the crimps and have given them a good scrubbing with a toothbrush and vinegar, didn't have any de-ionised water but give them a good washing with contact cleaner. I will pack with silicone grease when I have finished fault finding. All problems gone now apart from one. I can't connect to any of the ECUs on the OBD II bus (diag connector 7 and 15). I thought this would be due to the corroded connector as signals go through it. However that is not the case. Checking for continuity the K-line is open circuit between the diag connector ant the connector I have been looking at (C102). I put a temporary wire in to bypass the open cct and I can now connect to everything on that bus apart from HEVAC. Looking at the wiring diagram that suggests that the problem is at S214 (splice?) see pdf below. Although RAVE Electrical Trouble Shooting Manual show connector and earth locations it doesn't show splice locations (or at least mine doesn't). If anyone knows where that splice is, it will save me dismantling more of the dash than I need to looking for it. While I had the temporary link on I read the ABS codes and the only fault is Right Front Wheel Sensor. So it looks like the total cost of repairs for all the various electrical problems will be about £20 for a new sensor. The rest was just putting right various bodges and poor workmanship the previous owner had been charged £100sss for. Thanks to everyone for suggestions and help so far. Mike Diag CCT.pdf

Thanks for the camshaft suggestion I'll have a look at that. I found the cause of my remaining electrical problems. See connector pictures below. I think housings will clean up OK but some of the crimps are beyond cleaning. Does anyone know what connectors these are, I think they are Tyco/Amphenol 070 Multilock. But would be nice to have it confirmed by someone who knows for sure. Thanks Mike