MikeAK

Todd, I've used www.bearingboys.co.uk several times. Always been genuine SKF Timken etc. Mike

Hl, Soulds identical to my '93 RRC. Weird way to do it, can't imagine what they thought the advantage of doing it that way was. Here is a page from my rave showing it. Regards Mike

Hi all, My ABS pump was getting a bit tired. Would take about 2 mins to get up to pressure and then while OK for normal braking any ABS or TC activity for more than a coulple of secs and the low pressure warning light would be on. So before buying another (second hand) one I decided to take it apart and see if it could be fixed. First remove the pressure switch. I used an adustable spanner. Then remove the 3 cap head bolts that hole the motor to the pump body and "jiggle" the motor from the pump, its quite a tight fit. Motor looks like this And pump looks like this, drive plate removed as well The piston housing then just lifts out leaving this Be carefull not to loose the pistons, they are not retained in the housing This is the pressure reief valve which lives at the botome of the pressure switch bore To remove it grip the the edge with neddle nose pliers and pull. Its quite tricky! This is the valve And this is the housing Next remove the hex head threaded bush (whare the flexi banjo bolt screws in) non-return valve lives under here This is the non-return valve And on the bench This is all the parts dis-assembled I didn't remove the bearing as it seemed fine. I did measure it but don't have measurements to hand but I looked it up and its a bog standard bearing. The shiny surface at the bottom oh the pump housing as well as being the thust face for the piston housing retains an annular gause filter. I couldn't find a way to remove this without kn@ckering it so I filled the housing with meths and left it over night. Next day I used an airgun to blow back through the filter, this removed quite a bit of black sludge. i also found the pistons were quite stiff in the housing and as there is only centrifugle force to throw the pistons out and suck in fluid this didn't seem right. I just cleaned the housing and pistons in menths and lubricated with clean brake fluid and they were a nice sliding fit. I couldn't see a way of dis-assembling the pressure relief valve without loosing the pressure setting so I just cleaned it in meths. I couldn't see any wear anywhere so I then re-assembled the pump. In true Haynes fashion re-assembly is the reverse of dissambly! Here is the pump ready to receive the motor The result, pump now fills accumlator in approx 35 secs and never looses pressure during severe ABS and TC activity. I think it was the stiff pistons and the clogged filter restricting the flow, probably due to the fluid not having been changed for years. Hope this is of help to somone. Mike

Donated! Thought it was about time I did, got lots of money saving help/advice on here. Thanks

Hi, I used them a couple of times back in june/July this year. Parts listed as genuine LR were indeed genuine and both times parts arrived in 2-3 days of order. If you have waited since the 19 Nov in my opinion thats more than a reasonable time to wait especially with no response from them. If I were you I would start a dispute via PayPal and see if you can pull the money back. From Memory I think you have 45 days from payment date to file a dispute. When PayPal notify them of the dispute that might make them get their finger out. Regards Mike

Hi Thanks for the info. That sorts most of it, but the cruise control pump has 2 ports on it one black one white. Anyone know which the pipe from the actuator connects to and where the other connects to? Thanks Mike

Hi, Recently removed most of the stuff on the inner wings of a 3.9 RRC to do some welding. Took pictures of the layout of wires/pipes etc. Then I got my SD cards mixed up and formatted the one with the pictures on! Got the wiring sorted but now can't rember where the vacuum pipes go. There is a pipe coming through the bulkhead near the ABS master cylinder and another on the passenger side near to the outer edge of the wing. Apart from that I've got a cardboard box full of lengths of pipe, cruise control pump, and vacuum sphere etc! Can some kind person either take a picture of their layout or have a look and describe it please? I've looked in RAVE and Microcat but they just seem to have descriptions of the individual parts not how they all connect together. Thanks Mike

Hi, Does it have SUs or Stromberg carbs? If Stomberg I seem to remember on my old Triumph there was a tool you inserted down the dashpot to adjust the mixture. It was like an Allen key in a sleeve, the sleeve stopped the piston/diaphram turning while the allen key was rotated to move the needle up and down. Can't remember if it could be done without the tool. I THINK it was one of these. Fleabay linky

Geoff, Thanks for the reply. I'll pick up a couple of 10 hole composite gaskets and 20 head bolts tomorrow. I'll also fit the old bolts to the outer row just "nipped up". Regards Mike

Hi, I will shortly be re-fitting the heads to a 3.9. Original gaskets were the "tin" shim type, I intend to fit composite types this time. I know it drops the compression ratio a bit but I'm more interested in relibilty than performance. Looking around this forum and elsewhere it seems like its considered better to leave out or not fully tighten the outer row of bolts. So I was thinking of cutting the heads of the bolts for the outer row and screwing them into the block to fill the holes and to act as guides for re fitting the heads. Sound OK? Also as I am not using the outer row can I use the later 10 hole gaskets rather than the 14 hole type or are there other differences? My local motor factors has 14 hole tin gaskets and 10 hole composite gaskets in stock but 14 hole composite are special order. Thanks Mike

Hi, Its a while since I posted about this because I went on hols then my mate (whose RRC it is) was working away for a couple of months. Anyway he's back now and we've had another look over the weeknd. Swapped all the ignition components at the same time as suggested by geoffbeaumont in case more than one item faulty, this did ot cure it. So we next we took steve_d advice and pulled the rocker covers to check valve lift. It was imediatley clear by eye that No7 exhaust had considerably less lift than the others. So we dismantled further and the camshaft looks like this. Also all the followers are very dished on the bottom. So parts on order and hopefully it will be cured when its all back together. We're also now thinking that as its stripped down this far should we pull the heads while we're at it to decoke and grind the valves etc. Regards Mike

Hi, User manual/wiring diagram here: http://www.aeb.it/products/feedback-systems/leonardo/at_download/productAttachment1 It looks like it's in Italian when you start reading but English section is about halfway through Hope it helps Mike

Thanks for the reply. Will pick up a bagfull tomorrow. Mike

Hi, As the the title says I need to know the brake pipe size and fitting type imperial or metric. Its a 1993 RRC with ABS I've tried searching but I can't find anything or rather I can find everthing! Since the forum upgrade the search filters don't seem to work, at least for me, it seems to return hundreds of results for anything I search for. Thanks Mike

Hi, I did a very silly thing today! Yesterday took the battery of my RRC to get it out of the way while I do some welding for the MOT on my inner wings and the front body mounts. Put the battery on charge at the back of the workbench to make sure its charged when I put it back on. So today having welded the inner wing I had fabbed a front body mount and had it in the vice to dress the welds. Without thinking I just picked up the grinder and started grinding. After about 30s BANG and the battery looked like this, sparks must have gone near the battery and ignited the hydrogen. I was covered in battery acid, fortunatly as I was grinding I had goggles on. Fortunatly we have a utility/shower room just off the garage so I ran in there and turned the shower on. It was really stinging by the time I got under the water but it seems no burns although skin is red and itchy in places. So just a warning that a moments lack of thought could have severe consequences. Mike

Panel arrived yesterday from Rimmers. Had a look at it this morning and a bit dissapointed it is a Britpart one, the repair panels picture on Rimmers website clearly has the Hadrian panels logo. It does include the body mount so that saves me having to fab one. It does not have holes for the horn bracket and the coating is so thin in places its already got surface rust in places. It will clean up and the holes ar easily driled, just the usual Britpart quality! Will be fitting today if it stops raining, I'm having to do this outside on the drive Mike

Ah, never knew there's a thermostat. Thanks for the info Mike

Hi, Stripping out the are around my rotten RH headlamp box to to fit a new one and found this. It was mounted just above and inboard of the headlamp in the front face of the box. No idea what it is or what its for. Anyone tell me? Thanks Mike

Hi again, Rang Rimmers yesterday, they said it includes the body mount so I ordered one on the strength of that. Will let you know what the quality like. Look like Hadrian do quite a few panels and my local motor factors is listed as a distributor, next time I'm in I'll check availbilty and prices. Mike

On the picture it looks as though the body mount is included. Will give them a ring tomorrow to check. Seems Rimmers are selling Hadrian panels, their logo is on the picture. Thanks Mike

I'm also looking for a headlamp box and I've found these by googlng around. Hadrian Body Panels (www.perfectpanels.co.uk) who say they distribute vial local motorfactors and Beevers Auto Panels (http://bap.dominohosting.biz) who do mail order. Not used either so don't know what ther'e like. Looks like the second one is supplying from the first, same part numbers. Does anyone know what area the headlamp box covers? The pictures arn't very clear, looks like it includes the vertical panel panal at the side of the radiator where the horn and autobox cooler bolt on. Would be good if it also included the body mount at the bottom. If anyone has used one please let me know. Thanks Mike

Hi, Will check the check for intake leaks, will have to pull the plenum off to get the rocker covers off anyway to check valve lift as suggested by steve_d or to pull the inlet manifold. BUT not for a couple of weeks. I'm off to sunny Turkey for 2 weeks in about 8hrs so sort of lost interest for now! Will post back with whatever the problem is when I get back. I'm sure it won't have healed up by itself while I'm away! Thanks for the help so far Mike

Hi again, We did swap the components one at a time. Comes from my engineering training of only change one thing at once so you can quantify whats happening. Will try changing the whole lot at once on Sunday. The ignition amp is on the side of the dizzy so was swapped with the dizzy (had to make up some leads, different connectrs). To be honest from past experience I thought that would be the problem but not this time. Fuel pressure seems to hold up when manually blipping the injectors. Held them open for about a second which is a fair old volume of fuel at once. Obviously dont want to do to much of that or we'll fill the sump with fuel! But will try changing the fuel filter. I tend to agree with geoffbeaumont that its the camshaft but will investigate further first. Should it come to it I have seen Island 4x4 advertising camshaft kit (camshaft, followers, chain, gears, gaskits etc) for £110. Is this a reasonable price and does anyone have experience of the quality. Thanks again Mike

Hi, Been looking today at a mates 1992 RR Classic 3.9 which has a bad misfire. Symtoms are: Starts and idles OK but if throttle snapped open it pops back through the air filter. Drives O.K. on small throttle openings and low speeds but on wide throttle openings or moderate throttle opening at speed it pops back through air filter. This started a few weeks ago and has got gradually worse to the point where my mates stopped driving it. Things tried so far: Changed plugs for new NGKs - no change. Swapped plug leads for the ones of my RR - no change. Swapped Dizzy including rotor arm and cap for the ones of my RR - no change. Swapped coil for the one of my RR - no change. Spark checked on main lead and its good. Timing set at 6 BTDC using strobe vacuum disconnected. Swapped ECU for the one of my RR - no change. Swapped AFM for the one of my RR - no change. Checked all signals e.g AFM, TPS, CLT at the ECU connector by probing with ECU connected- all O.K. Fitted a Non-Cat tune resistor to take Lambda sensors out of the equation - no change. Non of the plugs look any more sooty than the others. Old plugs looked like it was runing OK but with "surface" soot from cold starting Ran the pump by linking the relay contacs and fuel pressure is 35.5psi and holds up if the injectors are "blipped" by earthing at ECU connector. Compression test gives 150 psi plus minus 8psi all cylinders Can't think of anything else to try around ingnition and fuel, so am now wondering if its somthing for fundamental in the engne like one or more worn cam exhaust lobes. What makes me think this is I've had this symptom on a cavalier and a sierra in the past both of which turned out to be a worn exhaust cam lobe. I think what happens is because the exhaust valve is barely opening the large amount of hot/burning gas at large throttle openings cant get away and comes out the intake valve at the next induction, hence the poping back through the air flter. Worn exhaust lobe doesnt affect compression test. But before we pull the inlet manifold off to have a look at the camshaft and followers does anyone have any other ideas around fuel and ignition or anything else? Thanks Mike

Hi again, Thanks for the further comments. Pulled out the injector emulators this weekend and then while trying to tidy up the rest of the LPG wiring I found it was so shoddy it was untrue. Horrible green powdery mess in every "crimp" and under the insulation tape covering the "soldered" joints. So I ripped out all of the LPG wiring. Also no thought given to the layout out wires e.g. the wire picking up TPS routed along with HT leads! Don't know what the Leonardo unit (and Hotwire ECU) must have made of the spikes on the signal. So I'm going to keep the Leonardo unit as people say better running and fuel consumption with closed loop (makes sense), also I'm not sure if the cats will like being run open loop. But I'll be putting the Leonardo unit under the seat with the Hotwire ECU, which will allow for nice short wires to pick up required signals from the Hotwire loom. Had sussed out that multipoint vaporisers are constant pressure. But due to lack of time and funds mutipoint LPG controlled by MS is for the future anyway, probably when the nights start drawing in and I'm allowed back in the garage evenings Just about got it running on petrol again this weekend after repairing the original engine loom using soldered joints and glue lined heatshrink. So will be few days before its on LPG again. Now need to make a programming lead for the Leonardo unit. Managed to find the info for this and the software after considerable searching. Info for leads and software for some other systems aso came with it, anyone interested PM me. Lead is very simple £5ish to make, no need to pay the £30 upwards on fleabay etc. Also managed to break the brittle crancase breather/restrictor Tee piece by leaning on it also the pipes had gone squishy gooey as well so got that lot on order. Regards Mike