Jocklandjohn
-
Posts
1,148 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
10
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Jocklandjohn
-
-
3 hours ago, Snagger said:
The top of that dash trunking is held in by perimeter self-tapping screws, all hidden under the black plastic tray (you can see the holes in the photo). To get that tray out, you need to remove the plastic trim that hides the dash vent. With the older models, that grey panel can be removed with the top fascia in place but is considerably easier with it removed. I don’t know about the 2002+ models with black panel, but I imagine that comes out the same way - the rest of it is the same.
You can see in John’s photo the torque rod running about mid-height of the bottom slope, the two flaps below it and the two spring steel clips between the rod and a lip near the bottom of the vertical face of the duct. The strips keep the rod seated in the clasps which act as hinges and locators for the rotating assembly. The vent flaps should have foam seals on the bottom face, invisible in the photo, that gets squashed a little when demist is selected as per the position in the photo. A 2-3mm pad of neoprene makes a very good replacement, but it needs to be a bit bigger than the hole it is sealing and needs to overlap from the flaps themselves by about 5mm in all directions but the rod side to give a good seal for optimum demisting.
The heater matrix has the matrix mounted across only a part of the void at an incline. The matrix is set to one side with a vertically hinged diverter flap adjacent that allows fan air to bypass the matrix when cold is selected and blocks the bypass to force the fan air through the matrix when hot is selected. If you slacken the grub screws on the heat Bowden cable connections, select full hot on the lever and then manually turn the flap to the full hot position by twisting the rope end of the pivot rod where it pokes through the top of the housing, you can then set the cable to ensure the flap gives maximum blocking of the cold bypass and maximum output temperature.
Grand explanation, thank you. I have had the heater out and it was pretty easily understood, but the arcane interaction of cables and flaps is something you definitely instructions to follow to get right!
-
1
-
-
38 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
In case it helps here's the insides - I blanked the top of mine so the control cable is zip tied to the actuator rod but it shows the mechanism:
Ah excellent thanks! I had no idea what was going on in there. So basically theres no 'duct' as such simply a large void that channels the air across the bulkhead and exits at flaps and pipes up to the window vents. I'd not relish putting a new cable in there - seems well out of the way! Thats really helpful - another bit of Land Rover I've seen for the first time! Its like being a geologist finding a fossil!
-
31 minutes ago, Peaklander said:
The two flaps are connected together with a long rod and there’s a short arm connected to it at a right angle. The bowden cable goes to it - so inside the lowest part of the dash. Pull the cable and the rod rotates.
There’s some spring metal in there too, acting as a resistance to movement, that allows the flaps to close when the cable goes slack.
Aha thats whats going on. Its not at all obvious.
4 minutes ago, Snagger said:I don’t think you specifically need grub screws for the Bowden cable - I think there is enough space for ordinary machine screws which may be easier to find.
The vent flap cable runs down through a hole punched in the top surface of the lower facia (parcel tray, if you like) just within the overhangs of the inboard end of the instrument binnacle. As Tim said, it operates the driver’s side flap, and via a torque rod, the passenger side flap.
The flaps close downward against the inside of the dash lower face for demist, closing right up against the foot well vents, so if you feel air leaking through those vents with demist selected, then the flaps need some replacement foam pads on their lower faces. That can be done pretty easily though the apertures once you unscrew the plastic vents. When selecting flow to the foot wells, the flaps lift up and sit against the inner lip of the rubber grommets that seal the top of the facia duct to the two corrugated hoses to the demisters. It isn’t uncommon for those grommets to split with age or have been unseated, so you can get leaks through that side, but it doesn’t make a lot of difference as the easiest airflow is through the foot vents anyways, so the air will generally go that way if the lower vents are open, regardless of a poor seal on the demister side.
The condition of the heater matrix and the coolant pipes feeding it make a huge difference to heater efficacy. It’s worth removing them to clean them out with some caustic soda and flushing them clean before refitting if running the heater on full hot doesn’t become uncomfortably warm in the cab after a few minutes. For all the complaints about poor heating, the unit is perfectly capable if in good condition and the Bowden cables are adjusted correctly - it is similar to the reputation for poor brakes or steering on LRs; they’re actually just a lack of maintenance.
Cheers, I juat found some M2 M2.5 and M3 grub screws on ebay so might try them. May try locally first as there's a few fastener and engineering specialists about. If I can ID the size/thread pitch I'll post it here.
I've had the matrix out a couple of times to clean it and replace seals. The heater was phenomenally hot until a bukhead replacement years ago (not done by me, but by Liveridge) and afterwards was warm enough but not anywhere near as vigorous as before. I've been adjusting flaps and what not and whilst its pretty good I know for sure it could be better hence the current messing about with it. There was some faffing about by Liveridge with the electrics as they could not get the Eberspacher they had removed/replaced to get sufficient voltage to operate properly so did some bodge with the wiring from the heater. I've replaced the Eber loom completely and its fine now, but I think there may be some gremlins in the heater fan motore control wiring so will need to get in about it with the meter.
Thanks both for the explanation of the flap mechanism, it had me puzzled! Just had all my brakes overhauled and it stops like a dream, and renewed steering UJ's and TRE's so its steers beautifully too!
-
On the off chance someone might know....adjusting the heater controls as per Ralph's excellent instructions and discovered that the inner control cable slides about because the tiny grub screw wasn't tight enough. However trying to tighten it revealed the reason - the allen key slot has been slightly rounded and the allen key slips and prevents enough tension being applied to secure the cable.
Any idea what size these little buggers are and where I might find a replacement? There's two, the upper one seems ok, lower one is the one I need.
And also out of curiosity - where does this cable (for the footwell flaps) actually join onto whatever mechanism makes the flaps operate?
-
1 hour ago, Maverik said:
I installed a VNT back in 2020, it seemed to run ok for 10 months, but then when starting it up, I found something was "sticking" - symptoms where no power or rev's, a good bit of smoke and spiking boost pressure, it would then suddenly pick up, the pressure would "pop" back to the max pressure and all was well in the world.
Quite simply this drove me loopy trying to figure what was going on, I stripped the VNT cleaned rebuilt, made up a test rig- replaced the VNT vane pressure modulator, tested all lines for blockages, replaced injector pump for overhauled unit... I even replaced the engine for a turner short block and rebuilt the whole thing - I simply exhausted testing and inspecting pretty much every related component and I didn't find the reason.
For sanity reasons I swapped the VNT turbo back out for a new garret standard turbo and just went back to some basic pump tuning and worked on making a nice intake and exhaust set up.
I wasn't very happy with the VNT set-up even without the "sticking" issue, in my opinion, you just cant control the air to fuel ration precisely enough on a 200tdi using mechanical means, to have a nice smoke free experience.
So unfortunately not a lot of help, but I never got to the bottom of the weird symptoms.
Quite an expensive endeavour.
Ah yes I recall that episode, and you mentioning it, and the various attempts to resolve it. I take it the standard turbo you reverted to (with other alterations) has enabled a better outcome?
I just did an experiment with a new air intake on the other side from the existing original one using a Donaldson canister. From the wing a 100mm inlet reducing to 76mm pipe to the filter, then reducer 76-60 and 60mm silicone flexi pipe to turbo inlet. Big improvement on previous, but it still felt a little restricted. So I swapped the reducer out of the canister outlet, ran 76mm flexi pipe to the turbo instead of 60mm and put the reducer at that end so reducing 76-60 into the turbo. There is a very noticeable difference with the latter, wider pipe. The intake noise is distinctly 'burbly' and it pulls really well but the interesting thing was a reduction of EGT in certain situations, particularly on the flat in 5th at 50mph, of between 80-100deg compared o the narrower pipe which was a real surprise. And with it a much better high gear roll-on with negligible black smoke. Which is a major improvement on previously.
-
1
-
-
Warmed it up with the eberspacher yesterday. Gave it a rev at ignition startup and got the normal slight haze of smoke, then down hill and onto flat and accelerated and there was no detectable puff. Picked up Forte Diesel System cleaner later on and got a bit of a puff on acceleration after it had sat for a while in town. The cleaner is in and I'll see what difference it makes after a thorough scrub through with it. Seems the static rev up after pre-heater warmup might have had an effect.
-
2 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
If that doesn't work, run 200ml of two stroke oil per tank for a few months
🙂 Been doing that anyway after the fuel pump service I had a some years ago where the newly serviced pump jammed *in the Bosch shop* but they did not realise it had happened during their pst-overhaul testing. It took a year to remedy and the fault was the horizontal pin jamming against the vertical diaphragm/boost pin. They'd never seen that before, but a few months later told me they'd had another pump same vintage as mine in for service and they doscovered it had exactly the same problem. They postulated the cause having something to do with the low sulphur diesel causing a lack of lubrication. When researching this later I saw a comment on here to use 2-stroke so I've been doing that ever since.
58 minutes ago, fmmv said:I have had a similar experience to the OP's. Our street is steep downhill, then level to a T junction where you have to climb up reasonably steeply again. So initially you need next to no throttle, till the T. Then the engine has to actually work, and like you, we had initial hesitation, then some smoke and splutter and after that all seemed to be OK, not even every time. This is on a 300. I admit I treated it as "it's OK now , let's just pretend that didn't happen for now" and put it on the todo list. For separate reasons completely I swapped the turbo (went VNT) and the problem went away, and has been gone for years. I can't say for sure therefore what it was, I may have inadvertently fixed it while swapping turbos, or it may have been the turbo itself.
When I looked at the old turbo having got it off, the compressor vanes had been rubbing the scroll, just slightly ( I knew it had had a good innings) . So maybe it didn't spin properly till the oil pressure had lifted it clear of the scroll, and it could spin freely, and that was my hesitation clearing. But that's a maybe, I have no definite idea what was causing it. Your smoke is black so that suggests over fuelling or shortage of air for some reason. Or maybe it could be an injection pump issue, something sticking in there. I think there is a device within the FIP that gives it full fuel for cold start, hence the puff of black smoke on startup - maybe that is sticking. If you have a boost gauge or could temporarily plumb one you could see if the boost when it's cold matches what it is when you do the same journey when it's running Ok, so that would help eliminate the turbo side. Can you get it to 'cough' just stationery when cold or does it have to be moving? Might be worth taking the diaphragm off the top of the pump and making sure the pin that bears against the boost pin can move easily (mark position of diaphragm and return to same) as they are known to stick, it's only 4 screws.
Just another thought... does this only happen when the weather is cold?
I fitted a VNT last year - it has made a huge difference. I have a boost gauge and all looks normal - only indicator of the oddness is the EGT gauge which shows higher EGT before the 'cough' and lower afterwards. I have not had a decently running van for years - I only found the cause a month or so back. Because I had a 19J/2.5TD originally and now a 200tdi I was still using the old passenger side vertical air filter, which worked ok. But. But the intercooler lower pipe exits there and has had to snake around the legs of the air filter can and this was putting pressure on some alloy piping further along and there was a cracked weld in an elbow there that was not at all obvious. When idling it all looked ok but under pressure when driving the seam would open and boost was lost. It took ages to discover it and only did so after pulling all the piping out, cleaning it and replacing and it then discovered that however bad it had been before it was now running much worse than that! Reason was the snaking through the air cleaner legs was a tad diferent this time when I reinstalled at after cleaning it all and this was putting even more pressure on the dodgy seam allowing it to open more easily under boost. Now its been replaced, a Donaldson filter fitted on the other side with a nice big pipe to the turbo and a clean run out of the intercooler lower pipe to the manifold and its now running like a champ. And this 'puffing' issue has revealed itself!
The problem does not seem related to cold weather. I'll have a poke at the boost pin and see whats afoot, I have had the top off recently and it seemed to be ok but will take anothrt look.
I'm sticking some injector cleaner through it later today so I'll see what that does. Its warming up off the diesle heater just now so I'll see what revving and boost does WITHOUT having started it from cold using the engine alone (we're still sub-zero so the eberspacher is a kinder starting option for the old engine!).
Thanks for the advice.
-
6 hours ago, Snagger said:
It sounds a lot like something sticking inside the injection pump, possibly through gumming up and possibly through corrosion. I’d try running a fairly strong dose of cleaner through it. I found Forte diesel system cleaner pretty effective in the past.
Cheers Nick will give it a go. Looks like I can get it locally too which is good!
Thank you!
-
1
-
-
200tdi
Start engine, let it warm for a spell and drive off. I'm intially downhill for a few hundred metres from the house, then onto flat road where I can accelerate, usually in 2nd. When I do this the engine *feels* like its got a rev limiter when I accelerate and is not willing to rev beyond a certain point then suddenly there's a POOF and a burst of black smoke exits the exhaust and immediately the revs are 'free' and I can see and feel the rev counter needle bouncing up and down with throttle stabs. After it does this 'cough' of smoke it runs smoothly and fairly cleanly but prior to it doing it it feels very asthmatic. This happens every time I start it after its been sitting for a bit, or after taking it out for a run and parking up for half and hour or so.
What might be the cause? Is it a fuel pump issue? Might the fuel pin/boost pin/diaphragm be sticking in the bore? It 'feels' like its needing the turbo boost to build sufficiently to 'clear' whatever is causing it, but thats guesswork on my part. What does happen is that if I dont give it that initial real push of revs to clear it, it runs with much less vigour, like its got fuel starvation.
All the gubbins around the engine has been renewed - tank a few years ago, fuel lines as well (feed & return), fuel filter replaced, injector nozzles renewed and injectors overhauled, and a new Delphi lift pump fitted a few months ago. Boost pipe was renewed as well from turbo to fuel pump with quality stainless braided pipe.
After it 'clears its throat' it runs really nicely so its not a major issue but I'd like to narrow down the likely causes. Any suggestions welcome.
-
21 hours ago, Snagger said:
I would be on to Trading Standards about the dealership. That is not just unprofessional - I’m pretty sure sit is fraud as they have deliberately misled you for financial purposes (ie not carrying out un-billed recall or warranty work). It is also extremely dangerous in deceiving you into thinking that corrective action has been undertaken and that your car needs no further remedy or concern. I’d send copies to all the local papers, just to really screw the dealership. They should be going to prison for that, as should LR managers who decline the repair, if that is really what happened (I suspect the dealership is lying about that too).
I agree with this approach. As I suggested already its potentially a breach of contract (notwithstanding the fact they said it was repaired but wasn't), as they invited you to have to work done for your and other's safety without any terms/conditions and then refused to honour that contract.
-
3 hours ago, Very Rural said:
I thought people might be interested in the latest stance taken by JLR on this.
I received the letter regarding the N706 recall, in September. I have been try ever since to get the 'Sticking-plaster' brackets fitted by a main dealer. I booked the vehicle in, waited a whole day for the work to be done, and eventually, after being told that it wasn't quite ready yet, drove it home. Next morning I looked underneath, - no brackets!
I looked at the paperwork that I was given, all official JLR documentation, "N706 recall work carried out". It obviously hadn't been. I contacted the dealer, who couldn't at the time give a reasonable excuse. Nearly 3 weeks later, I was told that because the vehicle had a replacement chassis they couldn't fit the brackets....??
I have pressed the main dealer further on this, & am now effectively told that JLR will not allow them to carry out recall work on a vehicle that has a non-standard chassis. The chassis is an OEM type from Marsland.
It's a 2012 110CSW, in near perfect condition with 33,000 miles only. What am I supposed to do now? I've tried other main dealers, but they don't really want to get involved. So I now have a potentially dangerous & unsafe vehicle. if the worst happens, bearing in mind that the recall is still outstanding on JLR's history log, then will an insurance company pay out for the resultant mess & possibly fatality?
David.
Interesting part of that is the document you were given stating the work has been carried out. As the recall 'fix' is "the work" and it has NOT been done, that looks awful like a breach of contract and a dangerous one at that. Imagine if you assumed the vehicle HAD been repaired and decided to sell it on with 'recall completed' I think you' might be in some trouble if it failed on the new owner.
If the recall is "safety" of an axle which is aknowledged by the manufacturer to be defective, and they've deliberately not done ithe work but told you they have...well.... I'd say they're on dodgy legal ground. Why? Well because of another detail: the recall has no exclusion clauses ie it does NOT state that a 'repaired vehicle' (in your case a chassis) excludes you from the fix. If thats the case then ANY other component fitted that they deem to be non-standard is potentially an exclusion. Shocks? Actually ON the axle? Sorry not standard. Bushes? Sorry not standard. etc etc etc
What would I do? I'd be back to the dealer with the "Recall Complete" document and ask them for a written explanation of why the work was not done. I would take the JLR recall letter too and point out that as it is sent to you, and you are named as the vehicle owner, (my personal opinion is that) you are legally entitled to have it done as JLR has said so, and have actually entered into a contract with you by inviting you to have the work undertaken "for safety reasons".
I'm not a lawyer, this is not legal advice, simply what I would do (I have been in slightly similar situations, and used these methods to point out liability). The fact remains - the liability lies with them to repair, not on you to NOT repair the vehicle (eg to fix a chassis, shocks, bushes, propshaft, UJ's etc) because doing so with "non-standard" parts might preclude you from subsequent remedies to their acknowledged failings. And I'm going to repeat the important part: nothing in the bit of letter posted at the start of this thread states there are exclusions because a vehicle has been repaired in any way. It simply states the vehcile component is defective, we accept liability, it needs fixing, bring it to us.
-
4 hours ago, fmmv said:
Don't forget Land Rovers like to mark their territory. Leaks may be from any or even all of the above points, don't assume there is only one.
You have no idea. I had to go into a private hospital ( I paid for it myself as NHS was looong waiting list - knee op and I had a ski trip with disabled skiers I was tutoring so it was worth doing). Arrived in the evening, parked 110 at their front door asit was really quiet and went in.
Anyway they made a pigs ear of it at the anaesthesia stage which gave me and the nursing staff a fright (an issue I have which I warned them about and they ignored then carried on and did what they should not have done) and then I woke up in a ward *somewhere* alone with no nurse to check me, no access to anything and despite loads of bell ringing nobody came. After 45 mins I got my phone and called front desk "Where are you?" they asked "I have no idea, I woke up somewhere in your hospital". 15 minutes later an official person and nurse appeared and the nurse lied through her teeth that she'd checked me every few minutes and I was unconscious. Which was nonsense.
Anyway I was glad to get out so hobbled to exit next day and noticed a familiar smell. And red footprints on their carpet and annoyed looking people everywhere with expensive shoes.
ATF! Outside a river of red power steering fluid was running down the drive and everybody coming in was walking through it and taking it inside. I checked my reservoir, empty. Sigh. Called AA and a low loader came for me and blocked their drive as it tried to manoeuvre in to get me. Took me to garage, onto ramp and refilled reservoir and ran engine. No leaks from the pump or box. Waited for 30 mins steeering turned left/right/left/right and on and on and on and not a drop came out. That same box performed flawlessly for the next 15 years until I replaced it. I still have the same pump.
Land Rovers know, they just know.....
-
3
-
-
Well all I can say is "...I'm glad you're not a flasher...!" Let me repeat that for those at the back "I'm glad you're not a flasher...!"
Update
As a test, after considering it last night, I put a non-LED indicator back on and it worked perfectly and so did all the lights/indicatprs etc. So I figured its an earth problem.After a bit of dismantling to get. access I'd a good poke around on the errant side and found a group of black earths on a ring terminal, the ring was grotty, and a single wire was broken and the other end nowhere to be seen, however I soon found it in the loom, and once the earth cluster was cleaned up and put on a new terminal with the broken wire replaced it all worked perfectly.
I think it was that single broken earth that was the issue - one wire creating all that weirdness.
I stil need to test the setup with the trailer board (big 3 bike rack) and see if it all works, but this will do for today as its sub-zero.
Thanks all for the help!
-
2
-
-
2 minutes ago, fmmv said:
I think prime suspect has to be earth connections, might be ones to the lights or esp if it afflicts all, the earthing points, eg on the transfer box RH side, bulkhead etc.
Thank you, I'll have a poke around them. I did replace the main earths a few years back and every few services I give them a scrape and vaseline.
I found a cluster of thin internal earths (3 or 4 black wires) on the rear passenger side that had their ring terminal corroded to nothing which was the cause of the sidelight problem on that side. Is there a similar earth cluster on the drivers side? (I ask because I cant just easily peek as I need to dismantle some stuff to get access to the clump of wires which I can do tomorrow). But if one side has a corrosion issue its likely yhr other does too - the van is 34 years old so stuff is getting tired.
The only issuse as far as I can see affect the rear drivers side: indicator, sidelight and foglamp which suggests a common cause (to my not-hugely-electrically-experienced mind.).
It was all ok before touching the indicator wiring so maybe I've disturbed something in that bit of loom. The original indicator was earthed to the body with the filament bulb copper strip so maybe thats the cause.
-
PS can confirm side repeaters DO still work!
-
Rightyo - changed sidelights to LED's first yesterday and all good apart from a shonky earth terminal on the passenger rear which caused the sidelight to go off/on intermittently which I fixed and its all now working as expected.
Today I put on one indicator at front to see what would happen and as expected the relay went into overdrive until I changed it for the new RDX relay and it all worked fine.
So I went ahead changed all the indicators. Checked each corner as i did them and all was working as expected.
However once I switched on the sidelights and indicated on the rear drivers side, the drivers rear sidelight flashes in tune with the drivers rear indicator - indicator on/sidelight off....indicator off/sidelight on....and so on as it flashes. Also as this is going on the foglight warning light on the dash is just barely glowing.
But if I actually switch on the foglight at its steering column switch so the warning lamp on dash is fully litup orange, neither the rear driver sidelight nor the indicator will work. (And the foglight doesn't light at all with any combination I've tried as far as I can see.)
Any suggestions as to whats afoot? Earth problem in the rear drivers side maybe?
I know RDX mention an earth fix kit but thats for a indicator glow not the issue I have.
-
1 hour ago, Peaklander said:
I don't think anyone notices the difference in looks, either on or off, unless they are LR owners themselves. The leds are much brighter but also offer less all-round light, which I don't think matters, as the increase in light directed forwards and backwards is so much better.
Aye I've seen some LR's with them but not realised they were LED until they were switched on. I imagine that even with their more obvious 'directionality' there's still such an increase in overall brightness compared to traditional lights that the side illumination isn't going to be too much different. Despite my best efforts to maintain a seal I keep having to empty water out of the current ones so having IP67 units should be a real bonus!
-
Well my 110 is used regularly in all seasons, as a daily driver and for work in all conditions, and its already got a somewhat 'workish' vibe and some of the conditions (like a few days ago in a sleet-filled monsoon with added fog) its definitely a bonus being seen, or as the worst case might be on some remote hills tracks, be found!!
-
58 minutes ago, Peaklander said:
The other thing is, why don’t you get the matching electrical sockets and put them at the loom in place of the bullets?
Then you don’t need to cut them at the lamps.
Also they are polarity sensitive so if you do connect with wires, just check each one works and if not, reverse them.
@PaulMc will be able to advise and supply.
Ah - thats so simple I never even thought of it! Probably makes sense to not fiddle with the 'good' stuff and alter the crusty old ones!
49 minutes ago, fmmv said:And aesthetically I have doubts, but the improvement in lighting is very marked, and personally (!) I think outweighs the looks aspect for a working vehicle.
Aesthetically..? I'm not getting any weird oversized stuff rather staying with the original 73mm (?) size as opposed to the larger ones, and certainly keeping the same colours as the older ones - the RDX kit is labelled 'traditional' and has the same look as far as I can see from the enclosed image. (But I'm not planning on getting the fog and reverse LED's only the sidelights and indicators.). Were you assuming I'd get the bigger ones? I think fitting anything too exotic would look like a tiara on a hedgehog....
-
33 minutes ago, Peaklander said:
The older vehicle such as yours (and mine) use a circuit at the indicator warning lamp in the dash, that isn't compatible with the use of leds at the indicators (and repeaters). If you change the front/rear indicators to leds, you also need to change the (green) flashing indicator at the dash. This is a tiny dual led that isolates the right and left side circuits so that the warning light works correctly.
I have not changed the repeaters as I thought at the time that they wouldn't work. BUT I don't remember why I thought that. I don't think it is a problem.
Edit: This is what I used https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394294827529
Sorry posted at the same time as @fmmv. Hopefully both comments help.
35 minutes ago, fmmv said:They work. I have recently done exactly what you are planning with a Wipac kit. If you tow, you'll need to adjust the flasher relay to work with your trailer, otherwise just replace existing stuff.. If your trailer has led flashers you will need to add load resistors to the trailer otherwise the trailer indicator light circuitry can't detect absence of the small current led indicators take. The filament side indicators will work the same as always. I think your sidelights in the headlights will also work fine. Just make sure the polarity is correct if one of the led lamps doesn't work.
Aha - thanks both of you, thats clarified it. I dont tow (often) but I do put a three bike carrier on with integrated lighting so I'll have to check what the bulb types are, but I suspect its not LED.
But thanks for the link to the RDX earth fix kit - I'd have had no idea!
I shall report back in due course and if required shout HELP!
Cheers
John
-
I'm contemplating adding LED side, stop and indicator lights to my '89 110. It all seems fairly straighforward - I have no fancy plugs in my loom for the existing lamps only various spade/bullet connectors so it'll be a cut off the new LED plugs and add the appropriate terminals, and swap the relay. So far so good.
However nothing I've found online explains what happens to the side repeater/indicator lamps on the front wings which are not included in the LED upgrade kits as far as I can see, although can be added as a separate item.
What I'm not certain about is if I leave my existing orange repeaters in place will they continue to function as before with the new LED relay or am I missing some fundamental thing like 'they wont work at all now' or be so dim as to be useless ?
Similarly, the headlamps I fitted recently have additional sidelight bulbs built in, which I have wired into the existing sidelight circuit - what will happen to those?
-
I'd both a transfer and gearbox from Ashcroft, fitted 14 years ago, both still working perfectly well. Only issues were to do with little adjustments which Ashcrofts were happy to advise me on, and on the transfer box a helicoil had been used on the filler plug and it cracked and a bit went inside but I was able to remove the bottom plate and wiggle it out with a bit of wire. Apart from that they're smooth and quiet still. Just checked my records and they were fitted at 237,000 miles and I'm now at 307,000miles. Granted I'm a sympathetic driver, but I had two other recon gearboxes fitted in the decade prior to the Ashcrofts ones, no idea who did them, but both were total rubbish and had to come back out.
-
41 minutes ago, hurbie said:
as far as i can see : nothing ....
to be fair , it doesn't charge your main battery first and then charges the second , it connects both battery's when the voltage is above 13.3 volts .....
so it charges both more or less at the same time ..
Thanks hurbie - thats what I *thought* from my reading of the bumph.
-
13 minutes ago, simonr said:
Personally, I would just connect the two Aux batteries through a voltage sensitive relay.
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/durite-voltage-sensitive-split-charge-relay-12v-140a.html
With the voltage sensing wire connected to the existing Aux battery.
Then, when the existing battery is charging and Aux 1 is nearing full charge, it connects Aux 1 & 2 together. When charging stops, they are isolated.
I would probably connect the heater to Aux 1 and the fridge to Aux 2 as Aux 1 is charged preferentially / first. The fridge not being cold is generally better than you being freezing!
Cheers Simon, very helpful. Curious though, whats the difference between that relay and the Victron one (just so I can understand this whole subject better!)
Could this be the understatement of the year?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Has there been any resolution to this?