tomaco1

Clutch bleeding woes I've bleed the clutch about 50 times, I finally got really good a couple times today, the problem is every time I shut the truck off it stops working and I have to bleed it again. I even drove it 3-4 miles(stop and go traffic) and it worked great, as soon as I shut it off and started it again it wouldn't go into gear. Everything is new except the hard lines which are about 2 years old. I redid all the connections and even changed the lower hard line, I tried it again last night and still nothing, this thing is killing me.

Got the truck running today, had the same problem with the back pressure, although mine seems to be more at the fuel tank. Also, everthing works, but the lights are on all the time, I can't get them to go off? But all in all looking pretty good. Rear window on the crewcab does rattle like a Bi*#th though.

Or what about just switching the feed and the return?

Ouch, I just read this, and i'm about to start the truck for the first. What ever happened with this? Couldn't it just be sent back to the filter on the bulkhead like a TD? Tom

TD5 ignition switch I was wondering if there was a spring loaded spot (when you turn the key) for the glow plugs on a TD5? and what wire should be attached to it? Thanks

Question #1 I was wondering if I need to use the starter relay from the TD5 with my 200? I was thinking I could just run the white/red wire right to the starter, or jump the relay and just connect the wh/red to the brown/red. Since I won't be using the ECU or Alarm I didn't think the relay would work because the Black/Orange goes to the ECU alarm(R102) Question#2 The Brown wire and the yellow/black wire from the glow plug timer are self explanatory, but the green/blue and the brown/orange are a mystery. They both go to the ECU(D131) which is gone, I was hoping I could use one as the hot and the other could go to the warning light. This may be a long shot, would I be better off using a tdi timer I have? I hope this makes sense. Thanks in Advanc

Many Thanks

Why does the glowplug need a seperate circuit? was it controlled through the ECU?

Thanks, The thing I was worried about was that it seemed to run through the ECU which I won't be using.

I need to run the cranking wire (white/red) from a td5 wiring loom to the starter of a 200tdi. The wire seems to go into a relay and then 3 or 4 wires come out. My question is can I just cut the relay out and slice the white/red to the one that comes out of the relay and goes into the engine compartment? It seems like it would work, but I just want to make sure I'm not forgetting anything. It seemed that this tied through the ecu which I won't be using. Also using a td5 coolant overflow on a 200tdi, will it work? Wasn't sure if the cap was a different pressure. Thanks.

Thanks, I just redid it and the old one was there but it was a little beat-up, Luckily I had one.

Not sure if I put the circular thing in behind the front timing cover? should I take it all apart again? Thanks

Thanks, so its a rare collectors item!

Thanks, I got the measurements already, I just wanted to make sure it wasn't some type of Frankenframe!

You guys are scaring me a bit! I test fit the 110 body on there and everything seem to line up perfect. Can someone confirm that old 110's have the shocks mounted one front, one rear.

I have a TD5 speedo I was going to hook up to a 200tdi, my question is? Would it be easier to swap a new drive gear or just get a VDO speedo? I can get the VDO for $110 here in the US, and I figure by the time I find the right drive gear and swap it in, the VDO would be a better option. I just hooked up the VDO vision to my other truck and it was simple to install and set to get the exact speed. I run 285 75 16 and was wondering if its worth trying to get the right drive gear? Thanks

I don't understand what you mean by this? My chassis is definitely a 110 chassis and it has one shock in front of the axle, and one behind? Its an 1983

My new rear cross memeber on my 110 has covered the holes for the shock mount, which is the old school type attached behind the rear axle. I was hoping someone with the same setup could measure the two lines I have roughly draw on the pic, red and yellow, and maybe snap a picture. Thanks Green arrow points to the front of the truck!

awesome, Thanks. Did you use the TD5 loom for the whole truck?

This is what I was thinking, use the existing setup without hooking up the pump. Has anyone had a truck running like this yet? I'd hate to put it all under the truck and not have it work.

Great, Thanks for the help. My plan is to get rid of the pump, but use the tank, the filter and all the hoses up to the 200tdi

Td5 fuel Pump with a 200tdi My plan is to use the fuel system from the td5 frame with my 200tdi engine, my question is whether I should use the fuel pump that that the TD5 has in the tank along with the 200 lift pump or disable the intank pump somehow. Also some thoughts on leaving the filter by the rear wheel as opposed to on the bulkhead where the 200 normally is. Many Thanks

I had a 1999 Double Cab (body parts only) shipped over and am going to drop it on a 1983 frame with a 200tdi. My question is which harness would work best with this setup as I want to get rid of the overly complicated harness that supported the ECU's and all the other stuff unnecessary for a much simpler 200tdi setup. It appears I have an early TD5 setup as it still has the old Dash setup. Thanks

Thanks, It seems they were fitted to the 1993 110's in the states also

I found this picture in a very thorough 110 build. I assume this is the G-valve found on a 110, and my question is does this work when a 110 is swapped to disc brakes in the rear? I also was wondering where to get one? and Is this the only valve used in a 110? (No PDWA or Combination Valve?) The picture is from a NAS 110 here in the states. I got the same stainless brake lines used in a NAS 110 so I'm trying to copy the setup on my 110 build