tomaco1

I sent my Turbo(200tdi) out to be rebuilt and it turned out to have an Odd number on the bearing housing, It came up as something from a Jeep? It was off from the numbers below, so I checked the 200tdi in 90 and they were the same as the numbers below. The Turbos appear to be exactly the same, I was wondering if maybe somebody repaired it already or if it was some odd LR thing? Defender 200tdi: Model TB0242 Garrett Part numbers: 465171-0001 465171-0002

The thrust washer seems to have a rougher side, does it matter which sides faces up? Rougher or smooth

My 110 front axle has 2 plates and a with a gasket(Joint Washer) between them that hold the Oil seal in the back of the swivel pin housing. My question is do you need all three parts? the 110 manual 1987+ only shows 2 of them, 1 plate and 1 gasket(Joint Washer) To confuse the issue each side was done differently one was plate/gasket/plate the other was gasket/plate/plate? Thanks Merry Christmas Parts 12 and 13 in on the Diagram

It could need a bleeding, the level does seem correct, its just that it only does it when the temp is below 30F or zero C for you guys.

Its getting cold and the noise from my Power steering is concerning me. I was wondering what you guys use in you trucks, it seems in the states they use ATF for the later V8's. Was wondering about synthetic? Thanks

Yes, thanks, those pictures were perfect.

Thanks those pictures were great, that does give you a rough idea of where they go. Black arrows

I just had a RHD 110 shipped over from the UK and was wondering if the later bulkheads(1999+) had marks in the Left footwell for the clutch, brake and gas pedals? I'm looking to do a LHD conversion.

Thanks yet again! i ordered one already, but if its ready to put together before it comes I will go ahead.

Is running with 2 out of 3 flywheel dowels (that center the clutch plate)is going to screw anything up? Balance wise

Above and beyond the call! Thanks a lot.

I guess I should change the spring also?

thanks, thats exactly what i need. Any idea what would make wear so bad? I'm hoping its just not a case of high mileage.

I used corbeau gts II with a set of rails made by a guy in the states, kind of a quick release system. I can get some pics if needed

I have a 200tdi with a worn shifter (picture 1) my question is where to get a replacement and how hard is it to change? I was also wondering if the setup in (picture 2) would swap onto the newer tranny?

I have the plate off of the 200tdi which has the adjustment, I'm going to try and fit that, I just need to get the belt. Does anyone know a belt number, as a cross reference(non L/R)part Thanks

Got it thanks! i GUESS i CAN JUST REMOVE ITEM #9

I have a 1985 L/R 90 with a 2.5 petrol and the Power steering belt Tensioner is starting to scream. My question is whether I need to replace the whole unit or can I just get the bearing? Thanks

Any Ideas?

The clip/pushrod seem to be intact, it seems like mine is the whole assembly floating around - clip/pushrod and fork seem to only grab the release bearing in one spot. When I hold inward pressure on the slave rod it stays in place and I get resistance like you would expect, but if I release the pressure on it, it seems to slip off and go too far in.

If the clip (#7) falls out does it make it harder to reinstall the slave cylinder rod and the fork? When I push on and wiggle the slave cylinder rod it seems like the fork only grabs in one particular spot and unless I hold it it seems to fall off the release(#1 in diagram). The slave cylinder rod is clipped to the fork Any hints on how to get the slave rod into the slave while keeping the fork in place? My mechanic is starting to think it a bigger problem with the clutch, I'm hoping and thinking its something simple. Thanks Its a 200tdi and lt77 by the way

I did follow your previous advice, but i'm still not sure its correct. It may be because I have a newer style 5 pin ignition, but probably its because I'm an idiot. Mine has 4 key positions Off 1 the accessories work 2 nothing happens but one of the unused spades on the back becomes hot, would I have to hold it on position 2 to power the glowplugs? 3 truck starts I'm wondering if this is the way it should be? Thanks

I finally got around to putting my Ignition switch in, replacing a 4 pin with 5 pin I'm wondering what each wire color I have is for? 1)Thick brown= 2)big white= Brown/orange= Small white= 3) white/red= 4)Brown/Orange= It seems to be working, but I havent hooked up the glow plug timer. It also seems all the terminals are hot when the key is on.

Is this much less accurate than drilling and tapping the inlet manifold?

Many Thanks