Miffy2A

Ok, found out a bit more. It's a Reynolds Boughton 1.3/4 tonne GS trailer. Approx 14ft x 8ft. Which is likely to be the 'model' number? I have an AVC and a NSN number. Thanks Ell

I guess you mean the swivel housing covers. If so, you should still be able to get the leather ones. Rub as much vaseline as you can into them and they'll stay nice and supple. I had a pair fitted to an exMOD S3 that was rotten everywhere and full of sand (think it may have been sea-dunked), swivels were mint underneath the leathers. I now have them fitted to my 2A, think I got them from craddocks. Cheers Ell

Thanks, I'm not entirley sure, I've just bought a 101 that comes with one, but haven't set eyes on it yet! Once it's back here I'll post up some pics. Thanks Ell

Does anyone know much about Arrow trailers? I think they were towed behind Bedford M series trucks rather than landies. There seems plenty of information on the web about Sankeys, but not much at all on Arrows. Thanks Ell

I don't think I'll use all the extra functionionality of MS2 (not yet at least!) I'm still trying to get my head around it all. Fridge you have a PM

I spose so, seems a shame as it has all new susp. fitted and looks pretty sound. It was the sills that were really rotten. The door pillar bent off once I cut the roof off!

Hi All, I've been slowly breaking an ex 5 door 200tdi, I've got it down to a rolling chassis with fuel tank/steering/bulkhead attached so I can manouvre it around the yard. Does anyone still buy rolling chassis for rrc/disco's to make specials with? I used to see them advertised and sold a lot, but not much recently. Am I better off breaking it up and weighing in the chassis? More work and hassle than I was hoping for at the moment; 109 has no starter motor, Rangie has no front brakes. My bikes got a puncture. It was a bloody cold walk back from the yard lastnight! Thanks Ell

Thanks Fridge, So if I added EDIS I'd be able to do everything. Ok, I think that maybe the way to go then. I'll re-read through some of the previous posts and pay attention to the EDIS bit now. Will probably have a stack load more questions after that! Cheers Ell

Hi folks, Looks like I may have some time on my hands soon, so wanting to make the most of it I want to squirt my Rangie. She's used for mostly road/towing so waterproofing etc isn't an issue, so I'm leaning away from coil packs, EDIS and all that gubbins. Current dizzy is Lucas 35DLM8 with the amp. module attached to it. A quick run down of the motor: Hotwire 3.9 EFI fitted with Lund LE1 camshaft, Heddman Hedders, lightly ported heads, K&N filter (in airbox). Runs on either Vpower (quick blasts) or on LPG (single point OMVL r90e). I like the idea of being able to tune with a laptop (as I can for LPG) and would like to be able to setup different maps for LPG and petrol. I'm looking at the MS1 Extra setup (from Phil @ ExtraEFI). What else will I need to get started? I think trigger wheel+sensor, extra lambda sensor (the LPG system has one already). Is it worth adding say an ign. upgrade like say Petronix Ignitor/Flamethrower coil at the same time. Any comments & suggestions very welcome, as I'm still trying to get my head round all this MS stuff! Eventually (once I'm used MS) I want to single point inject my 3.0 straight 6 in the 109. She already pulls like a train, but I think theres a lot more potential in those engines. Thanks in advance, Ell

I've always hated the series brake bleeding trauma. Mine is a remote servo so even more hassle. Took me a long time to get a firm pedal, here's what I do: Get some nice big clamps, remove the brake shoes all round and clamp up all the cylinders so they are as compressed as possible. Bleed down at each of the cylinders. Replace shoes/springs/drums. Tighten the shoes up fully on the adjusters so they lock off the drum, back them off until it's free to spin. Repeat for each drum. If you still have to pump up the pedal, then it's worth checking the state of the adjusters (cheap but a bit awkward to replace) and fexi hoses (2 x front 1 x rear). If all these are good, I'd look towards a fault in master cylinder or servo seals. Good luck!

Thanks chaps, it did seem like a lot to do. I'll consign that idea to the scrapheap. Now I definately need to get rid of a rolling Disco chassis in the yard before I think of anything else! Mecano - I see your not far from ome, I'm in Watford by the hospital.

Thanks chaps, My thought behind it was I've always lilked the 101s but for any long distance jorney they're less than ideal. With rust bitten rangies being so easy to find, I thought why not an Auto, 3.9 on rangie running gear. A sort of baby 101 underneath but full size on top. Long term I'd go for an ambi body and camper it. Could 101 axles be fitted to rangie chassis & coils reasonably easily? Would the man from VOSA want to know all about it? This is definately not something I'm going to be attempting anytime soon (maybe ever!) but just wondered for now. Cheers Ell

Ok here's my potentially very bad idea: With RRC and 101 FC being about the same wheelbase, I started wondering if I could fit (with a lot of fettling and some mods to the steering arrangement) a 101 body to an RRC chassis and running gear. Has anyone ever done this before? Is it a really bad idea? 101 owners, could anyone give me the nose to tail and side to side body dimensions of their 101 GS. Thanks Ell

Thanks chaps, I had thought about 4.6 but don't really need to go that far, was going to replace just for 3.9 but if its a simple case of swapping bits I'll go 4.2. From what I understood 4.6 would mean a different block or more engineering? I rebuilt upwards of the pistons, but checked bores at the time and they seemed pretty good. If when I pull the block and properly check things out, if it's past it I may go straight for 43.6 block if cost is permissible. This rangie is mostly used as my runaround, for towing my landies about and long distanceUK/European road trips. I wanted that bit more power just for grin factor, which I get everytime I drive her as it is

Just be careful when pulling the rods out as some have weak plastic elbows on that snap very easily. (Dont ask!)

Hi Jon, I replaced mine with Paddocks ones a few years back. No problems with them. A new issue that's just occured is the tabs they connect to on the upper tailgate have started to shear off. Think this is wear related though and no problem to do with the struts. Cheers Ell

That's a nice looking bit of kit! I started on something similar but using an old fire extinguisher. Haven't got round to fitting the door or top cap yet, too many other things to do! Will see if I can dig out a pic later. I'm thinking of a bigger version for in the barn (freezing cold damp trap!) using an old steel barrel that's buried in the hedge. What are the inside of gas bottles like, do the have nay nasty residues in? I now know that extingishers have an interal plastic lining that takes ages to burn off! Cheers Ell

Hi, I had similar problems before with my passenger rear door. This is a late '89 RR so assuming your's is the same sort of age: To take off the door card: Unscrew 2 screws in the pull handle - usually stuck fast under the plastic covers Unscrew cover underneath pull open intertior handle. Carefully push the locking button surround updwards and it should pop out. Then you can remove the door card (remember to detach the electric window wiring). Now you should be able to get at all the rods and levers for the lock. Give them a spray of WD40 to loosen them up a little. Check that you dont have any broken/fallen off linkage between door handles and mechanisms. To adjust the lock mechanism detach the rod attached to the exterior door handle (short one) and turn it clockwise to shorten/anti to lenghten and trial and error if it will open from the outside or not. Try and get the handle to be 3/4 of the way out when the door opens. This will give you some leeway if things move again before your at full travel. Hope ths helps Ell

Hi all, First up a quick hello as this is my first post here. I've had a few LR's over the years and currently run a 109 2A 3 Litre Weslake, and my beloved RRC '89 3.9 Efi LPG Auto SE. Have a couple more 'projects' off the road which I doubt I'll ever get round to finishing! I'm experiencing some smoke on overrun (3k revs usually when dropping speed on motorway) which I'm hoping is just the stem seals, but haven't got round to checking this yet. If it is the pistons it's not too much of a worry as I have a plan..... Currently engine (135k) has lightly ported recon-heads, Lund LE1 cam and was top end rebuilt 2 years ago (new timing, lifters, rockers etc). Heddman Hedders, K&N and a cherry bomb instead of rear box. I run mostly on LPG (single point OMVL Millenium) but use petrol for start up and when I feel like giving it real beans. This years intention is to MegaSquirt the RRC (then later the 109). Whilst thinking about this, I was looking at cranks and pistons. Am I right in assuming that the 3.9 and 4.2 pistons are the same, and that the longer crank gives the 4.2 the extra capacity? If this is true, can I straight swap the 3.9 crank for a 4.2? I know I'll have fuel issues to deal with, but I'd ideally do this after MS is setup and running with it as a 3.9 so hopefully wil be a little easier. Has anyone else done this transition before? Would you do it the same way? Any input much appreciated! Thanks Ell