P38 Paul
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Posts posted by P38 Paul
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8 hours ago, piloti said:
Likewise Paul
Trumpet fanfare , IT GOT US HOME . Cheers for everyone's support , I couldn't have done this without the forum I'm sure . The journey took just over 6 hours as I took it very steady from the start & didn't drive above 60 mph , I kept the cap loose for all of the journey & checked under the bonnet every half hour , the temperature gauge is still a bit up & down but seemed steadier on the motorway maintaining about one third of the way up the gauge , it lost no water whatsoever during the whole journey .
Here are a couple of pictures I took or the rad & the recovery of the vehicle , sorry about quality of the photos but it was getting dark after a 8 1/2 hour wait for recovery . Last two pictures are the split on the top of the rad , around 4" long .
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D Day , Here we go .
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On 4/26/2019 at 6:22 PM, David Sparkes said:
The erratic temperature gauge is due to air going past the sensor, (the air is cooler than the coolant or more correctly air doesn't transfer heat (into the sender) as well as liquid does).
Either you have a bubble of air working its way out, or it's a cylinder forcing air into the cooling system.
If it's the latter you won't get 160 miles. Think again about leaving the pressure cap loose, as I advised in an earlier post.Regards.
Hi Dave , is it good or bad that there seems to be no real pressure in the system ? There are no apparent leaks anywhere that I can see & I have not had to top the water up .
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11 hours ago, piloti said:
Are you towing the caravan?
Hi Piloti , no , not towing a caravan thank God , however today I took the car out for a run to warm it up & pulled into a layby , everything was hot even the small black hose that I blew through the other day , so I carefully undid the expansion cap to check for any bubbles & not one bit of pressure in the system , just a small hiss , the water was hot but no bubbles at all . However the gauge is still showing half way up a hill & into the blue coming down the hill , on this occasion I had the cap on tight for the test . I will give it a longer run tomorrow before the dreaded trip home on Monday.
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38 minutes ago, David Sparkes said:
The erratic temperature gauge is due to air going past the sensor, (the air is cooler than the coolant or more correctly air doesn't transfer heat (into the sender) as well as liquid does).
Either you have a bubble of air working its way out, or it's a cylinder forcing air into the cooling system.
If it's the latter you won't get 160 miles. Think again about leaving the pressure cap loose, as I advised in an earlier post.Regards.
Will do David , thanks for your advice .
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Hi all , I have refitted the rad & it took just over an hour , cable tied the lower fixings as they only supplied the nuts & not the bolts so that will have to do till I get it home , I also had to trim one of the lower brackets to get it past the viscous couplings it was just to wide . I blew through the small tube to clear any fluid inside it & then refilled the system with just water for the moment , I then started the car & drove it for a couple of miles the topped it up as necessary , I then drove it carefully for 10 miles & noticed that the tempreture gauge was very erratic, it was climbing to just under half way when going up the hills & into the blue when coming back down so I don't think that's to bad , maybe it just needs to blow out any trapped air that is still left in the system . Just an idea , but would the lack of antifreeze make it run hotter or cooler than it normally does ? Am going to risk driving it home 160 miles on Monday , wish me luck .
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21 hours ago, piloti said:
Well done Paul. Refitting is a doddle. The only thing to remember is to blow into the expansion tube till any coolant still in it empties into the expansion tank and is clear.
Ok then lads & lasses the rad has just arrived , it's in the middle of a hail storm & I reckon I am going to get wet , wish me luck .
Hello Piloti , what is this expansion tube that I need to blow down , is that the small black plpe that runs from the expansion tank to the rad
& why does it have to be cleared of any old coolant ? Will it not do that itself , regards Paul .
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Just got the old rad out of the car & everyone is correct " WHAT A PIG OF A JOB " the two bottom bolts are a rusted mush but have now been cut out , the fan & shroud are still in place & what a tight squeeze it was to get the rad out , let's hope that I don't damage the new rad when I try to put it back in . The tools I have are very basic & consist of a small set of spanners , a pair of pliers , two screw drivers & a collection of cable ties , glue & gaffa tape so no chance of removing the fan . So here I am at the caravan awaiting the arrival of the new rad & will update you on any progress or failure that I encounter when refitting . Thanks for your help & any more suggestions on the refitting of the new rad will of course be most welcome . Paul .
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Hi , I am on holiday at the moment & the rad has blown in the car , can I change the rad without removal of the viscous fan as I only have a very basic tool kit , will order a new rad tomorrow if I can fit it , your urgent attention would be appreciated .
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11 hours ago, Escape said:
You could set out a proper pattern to get a chesterfield look if you really want.
Excellent 😂
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On 1/26/2019 at 12:49 PM, elbekko said:
I've got it here: http://rave.stringsandints.com/RR '02 - RR P38 - Defender.rar
cheers for that , been looking for the Rave manual for ages .
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My thought would be the glow plugs if its a diesel .
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Petrol / Diesel m/Y ?
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hello mate , where did you get your rave manual from , been looking for ages for one , regards Paul .
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1 hour ago, elbekko said:
Right, I've been staring at the drawings some more.
It's just impossible that the thermostat housing is cold, even if it isn't working correctly, because the bypass still goes through there. Which makes the expansion tank boiling also really strange. Either it's going through the heater matrix, or it's sending steam through the manifold bleed hose.
So everything very much still points to a flow issue, but what on earth could be causing it...? Or localized heating that causes stream into the bleed hose, and boiling the tank that way, still an option.
Is the top hose hot all the way down to the thermostat ? if so , & the bottom hose is cold the only thing in the way is the thermostat .
If the top hose is cold at the thermostat it could be blocked or collapsed inside therefore restricting the flow , good luck , I feel your pain .
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34 minutes ago, Escape said:
I agree everything point to the thermostat (including the troubleshooting section in Rave). Still, a new one being bad is one thing, an old one behaving exactly opposite as before to give the same symptoms as the new one, that does sound strange. I checked both the old and new waterpumps as well, we were hoping to find a lose impillor or something, but they seem perfectly fine. And everything has been flushed, so what could be preventing flow??
You are going to have get the spanners out again my friend , good luck .
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5 minutes ago, elbekko said:
Well, it wasn't spinning when I tried it before I fit it, I doubt it's under much more load than I can put on it manually.
Thermostat was my gut feeling as well, but it's doing the same thing with a known "good" one...
Its going to have to come out , its only a few hours work 😬 take some sandwiches with you & a hot drink , good luck with this one , regards Paul .
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It may be a duff pump with the impeller just spinning on the shaft or the pulley spinning on the shaft , but my gut feeling points to the thermostat that's at fault .
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First , I would take the thermostat out altogether & see what happens , then second , I would check for a blocked radiator & if you still have no joy , then third , I would check the water pump again , these I understand are the only things that can stop the water flow , good luck . Regards Paul .
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On 12/19/2018 at 6:57 AM, Escape said:
That sounds like the driver door actuator failing. If the microswitches don't register the key movement, the alarm wont let the doors unlock. And with superlock, you can't manually open them either.
There are easier/cheaper ways to get in to a P38 though....
@JohnnoK good link, thanks!
Hello Escape , hope you are well . So in your valuable opinion , what is the best way to get into a P38 that is super locked as this is surely going to happen to me one day , regards Paul .
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Thanks for your help guys , I replaced the discs & pads again yesterday & low & behold " it was the drivers side disc again " I cant keep going on like this , are they not supposed to last more than 10,000 miles ? The passenger side one was perfect so I am going keep that one with its pads & fit that on to the drivers side if " or should I say when " the drivers side warps again .
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Ok , thanks for the replies , I needed to know as I think I have a warped front brake disc & no way to check which one it is without spinning the wheel , I recon I will change them one at a time to find the problematic one . If its the drivers side I recon that I have a problem as this is 3rd time I have done this within 20'000 miles & each time being a warped drivers side disc .
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Hi everyone , just a quick question .
Is it possible to turn the road wheel ( when jacked up ) on a P38 without having to disconnect the prop shaft ?
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8 hours ago, Blanco said:
4 poster airbourne? Unless you have some service history that suggests otherwise then the valve block has almost certainly never been serviced, which means it wil by now be dusty dirty and possibly beginning to suffer from humidity as well. Definitely time to have a look see.
😢😭
Excellent
Urgent request P38 diesel.
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