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JohnnoK

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About JohnnoK

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    Cape Town

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  1. Blimey! Some sharp skills there, Hat's off to you, sir.
  2. It could be your clutch release isn't pushing in far enough to fully disengage the friction plate, or, the input is binding on the spigot bush as it warms up.
  3. Absolutely agree! While you are at it, have a quick shufti around the yard to see where you could site another/others to haul dead ones in/out. You will probably have left over mix, so use it.
  4. You, sir, are a champ! Thank you.
  5. Did you lube the inner surface of the seal with engine oil before fitting the pulley? If it is dry, the seal will generate heat and fail, causing it to leak, but in all fairness, it shouldn't be immediately when you rev it.
  6. Something like this? https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/bmw-m57-to-300tdi-r380-adaptor-kit/ From here.. https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product-category/adaptor-kits/
  7. Who makes/supplies the electrical connectors used in the Discovery 2? I want to tidy up my engine bay harnesses and need new pins and some connectors to do that. Alternatively, does someone know the name/series of the connectors so I can do a comprehensive Google search?
  8. The sunroof isn't watertight, by design. There is an internal tray around the perimeter of the window that is connected to drain pipes that run down the A & B pillar, check they are not blocked and it may be that your tray is rusted through if it has been blocked for long enough before.
  9. The Nanocom diagnostic box can do it, but it wouldn't surprise me if the OEM one couldn't. Maybe consider buying a Nanocom, if you intend keeping the Landy, better, too, if you have mates who have vehicles with OBD-II connectors, because all you will need then is to buy the software and the appropriate cable for the various models, and you can start making some side money doing diagnostics.
  10. You need the gearbox shift lever housing and the difflock actuator and mounting off a D1make that work. Remove the current shift lever housing and transfer the stick and springs etc over and refit, then bolt down the difflock lever and linkages. You will also need a D1 hi/lo actuating lever for the T/C as there is a difference between the 2, the D2 is straight and the hi/lo linkage won't line up properly, the D1 linkage is doglegged and that lines the selector rod up nicely. http://www.discovery2.co.uk/D1_to_D2_cdl.html
  11. Recheck your clamps.
  12. You may have a leaking turbo hose to or from the intercooler. The hoses sometimes get pinhole leaks or the clamps aren't tightened properly.
  13. Tempting, but I wouldn't. A pressing reason why you shouldn't have will come to light, soon after you weld them...🤔
  14. A quick rummage on Google reveals that you may have this baby.
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