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About JohnnoK

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    Cape Town

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  1. We have the Touch 'n Tuff ones at work and they are perfectly acceptable.
  2. Would it not be economically more suited to source a stronger tail lift from a breaker's yard? It just seems to me that all that cutting and welding, the, the bodywork and finishing is going to amount to a lot more in terms of time/cost than a used lift and overhaul of the lifting gear.
  3. Bear in mind that those hinges will also need to keep the roof firmly attached on the road while driving, and not just allow the roof to open.
  4. Technically, the roof panel and the framing for the roof are spot welded all down the gutters, around 50-ish spots per side on my D2. As for function, I must agree that all they do is direct the rain to the closest point where it will leak into the cabin....
  5. We have an array of barrier materials that we use to try and get around/minimise corrosion, but in many cases, the only real "fix" is to regularly remove, inspect, retreat, reinstall to be really effective.
  6. I think it's called an unloader. It basically vents the line from the second piston to the tank, (which will have a non-return valve) and that allows it to start up without internal pressure. MR HIPPO beat me to it.
  7. I was getting it from someone trying to flog me a diff, but a visit with the Mk1 eyeball tells me I am misled. My sincerest apologies.
  8. I had a Kershaw A100and liked it a lot, until some nimble fingered bugger liked it more. I'd recommend it, particularly for the vise grip feature of the pliers.
  9. Rear exhaust and fuel tank will be untouched as only the front diff is other handed, rear remains as is. OP may need to adjust front section of exhaust if it's a V8 and obviously the entire axle needs swapping out with a Disco2 one, and the front propshaft (I think) as the P38 may be different due to transfer case size and geometry.
  10. Can't you have the wheel centers re-positioned where you need them?
  11. The only drawback I can see is that the sheet thins out as it's drawn down, starting at the edge of the shape, and that edge tends to be a weak point and fracture prone. You may want to experiment with thicknesses of sheet to get best results.
  12. Agreed, but for his wish to go to the LT230 he will require the Disco offset to the right versus P38 to the left.
  13. You push them through, hold the body and pull the nut out, then tighten it. Unscrew the nut, push the stem back in and withdraw to remove. I find they hold tighter than Clecos, but take longer to fit and remove. A mate who is an aircraft sheetie has both, for quick or strong applications.
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