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JohnnoK's Achievements


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  1. As an enthusiastic "armchair welder" why are you doing it in stages as opposed to bunging it in Madame's oven to preheat and then getting stuck in and finishing it? I understand your welding it in different paces to mitigate cracking and stresses by not building up too much heat, but why not dive in and get it done?
  2. I'd start with the selector setup, they tend to wear the pivot points and a little bit of slop can lead to a lot of free play downstream. You may be able to disconnect the linkage from the selector arm on the top of the transfer box and manually move it to the lock position and see if that engages the diff lock.
  3. In and of itself, that sump plug is not in any way alarming in my opinion.
  4. No, it's not that. I have used wire twisters in aviation for over 30 years now, and I have never seen that tool before. These are your generic wire twisters Deep reach aviation type rebar tie twister
  5. Interesting, I ran my 1275 ex-race engined Mini on it for a while and my P6 Rover with no ill effects. Both were high(er) compression, though, the P6 is 10,5 and the Mini was probably closer to 11. They were probably running too lean to get such high temperatures.
  6. Is the little pipe from the top right corner of the radiator to the header tank clear of obstructions? It should have a steady flow when the engine is running. My D2 Td5 hose stays hard, too, I don't think that's an issue as the system runs at over 1 atmosphere pressure, so if it is staying firm, I'd say it's still well sealed and in working order. I'd pull the top hose off and reclamp it with a smear of rubber grease on the inside of the hose for starters, and then run it and see.
  7. Some sort of tying/tightening and cutting tool, maybe?
  8. Apparently us Furriners are undesirable viewers of such stuff......
  9. AVGAS 100LL is still leaded (LL is Low Lead) so your engine will like that feature, the issue comes in with low compression engines that will gain nothing from the higher octane fuel and the fact that the required adjustments to timing and mixture are beyond the normal scope of automotive ECUs and the vast majority of tuners. From Wiki...
  10. I had Hankook Dynapro ATMs on my Disco2 when I got it, they had been fitted at around 161 000km and I just took them off now at 364 000km, so if the ones you are talking about are anything like the ones I had, I'd say go for it.
  11. Ignore my number, too!! Also missed the V8 bit....doh!
  12. I'd have brought it around the back and angled it to meet the bottom of the rear cross member, personally.
  13. The catalogue says it takes a 7PK1801.
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