jimmy_neutron
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Posts posted by jimmy_neutron
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I put petrol in my diesel Pug... If that wasn't bad enough I put £46's worth in before I realised...
You may now dissolve in fits of laughter... I would!
TwoSheds
It's coming to us all
I dread the day i do it.
At least you noticed though and didn't start it up.
What does happen if ya start a diesel up with petrol in the tank.
I know a couple of gallons will just thin the fuel bit but wot about a full tank.
I had a bad dream about this once .. Sad, but true .. In my dream, my car kind of banged and spewed its oil on the floor. It was only a dream though... I didn't actually do it
.... yet -
It's cause some of them think they are better than us........................... Happened to me once when I was younger offered me a brochure , so of I went to another dealer bought a new one went back parked outside the showroom saw the sales manager tooted the horn and gave him the one finger salute
Excellent attitude.
My problem was that i very rarely make my mind up when it comes to change. I like things either just as they are or go all out and change absolutely everything.
Thus when i was thinking of changing my van to make it more family friendly i had to choose what the best alternative was. My favourite was going to be a new 110CSW. But of course the Discovery is worth a look.
Also needed to let the Mrs drive them about and see if she thinks she can park em etc.
Not just a 5 minute look at it un see if it smells nice.
I did go to my next nearest dealer. It took nearly 2 hours to get there, by which time the kids were bored, the mrs was stressed and all anyone wanted to do was go home.
Still, judging by how many problems people have had with the early new defenders, i'm glad i stuck to the simple 200tdi. Spent a couple of grand on the old one instead to make it a family friendly car with 5 forward facing seats all with 3 point belts. Not quite finished yet though.
Then i'll need to try polishing it and it'll look like a new en anyway.
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"What purpose would it have in this engine anyway ??"
I think it's worth reviewing the purpose of the valve, be it a ball in a cage, or the ball with a twig.
For the sake of simplicity I will ignore that horrible V8 and it's sideways mounted thermostat.
As you imply, the standard thermostat is fitted 'spring down', and the ball of the bleed valve also hangs down, underneath the horizontal skirt of the thermostat.
The valve is there so that as the engine cools, and the coolant shrinks, the valve will drop, allowing air to flow up, through the top hose, and to the expansion tank in the top of the radiator. Coolant flows the other way through the valve, into the engine block, and the net result is that you don't have an airlock around the temperature sensing element of the thermostat.
As the pump spins, the coolant flow closes the valve, and that is fine. There is some other bypass circuit which allows the warming coolant to flow past the thermostat, even though it's not open, and there is no passage through the radiator. In modern engines this bypass circuit is normally the heater matrix, but in older engines it can be a bypass passage cast as part of the thermostat housing (think Series 2.25 / 2.5 engines).
From what you say the thermostat didn't open on your first run, and I cannot guess why that was. There was clearly some flow as the heater got hot. The only other thng I can think of is that the bleed valve was stuck closed, and there was an airlock beneath the thermostat. This 'stick' could be just one of those things, or poor tolerances in a cheap part, which is where you came in. Taking the thermostat out may have shaken the valve loose, or the action of the test boiling water did it. Now you have removed the ball completely there is clearly no chance of an airlock being created, and although in theory the small permanent hole will delay warm up stightly, I don't suppose it will be that serious, so from now on I suspect you can ignore it.
HTH
But as Fridge Freezer pointed out .. If during warm up, there is absolutely no flow through the stat, then heat needs to be conducted, rather than convect or flow, to the stat. Then theres the losses to think of.
The bypass circuit on a 200tdi is the heater matrix, but this does not make the coolant flow directly under the stat. In the same area, kind of , but not directly under as it should do. And of course does do on most motors.
The coolant expansion tank is piped to both the bottom rad hose and the top of the rad. This eliminates the requirement for the valve as you describe it.
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Fog lights should really go under the bumper , and spot lights above .
As above.. Fog lights should be fitted as close to the ground as possible. This is to prevent glare being shone back at ya in the fog.
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Reply to All,
This is why I asked the question of whether it would be preferential to run Nanocom or similar on it first... It could be any or all of the above reasons!!!!
Potentials list to date:
* Injector Harness
* Injectors
* Turbo Activator
* Fuel Pump
Hmmm......
No offence but i think everyone is answering, its just not the direct answer that you are looking for.
Firstly ... Lift the bonnet ... get in .. check for signs of the above.
If after a few hours it leads to nothing then run Nanocom.
Or run Nanocom .. see if it shows anything ..
It wont tell ya if your fuel pump has been starting to get noisey recently though.
Neither will it pull ya a can of WD40 for the Turbo activator.
Probably wont even differentiate between an injector fault or a harness fault... Need eyeballs and maybe a meter for that
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Fridge freezer .. I bow down to your superior knowledge.
I took the stat out this morning. It looked ok, so i put it in a pan of water and boiled it up. It opened perfectly at 88degrees ish.
Took it out the pan and took a closer look at it.
It didn't have one of them balls with a twig on it that goes through a hole. Instead it had a hole with a brass crimped thing on one side of the plate with a small ball bearing in it.
This brass thing with the ball in it was fitted to the bottom of the stats plate. Thus the hole was closing as soon as any water started to flow.
Removed the brass thing with the ball in, refitted it, and all works perfectly.
I understand that if its fitted to the bottom then it closes and creates the problem i had .. but what if it was supposed to be fitted to the top .. What purpose would it have in this engine anyway ??
Just in case your wondering.. yes i did fit the stat spring down
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2000 TD5 Defender, ran perfectly previously but:
Started yesterday, in 4th and 5th (though most noticable in 5th between 60 & 70 mph) gear there seems to be a slight misfire which seemed initially like fuel starvation.
Took her for a good run out to the Peak District today and she seems quite sluggish going uphill and on the motorway, at times struggling to hit 70 when in the past cruising at 70 was fine.
Ive had a good look through the forums but it appears it could be all manner of things from injector harness to ECU..
Any ideas where I should start? Am I best getting the fault codes read first or using a process of elimination to discover the issue?
RE: Fault Codes - are there any cheaper alternatives to Nanocom or Rovercom?
Thanks in advance
Jamie
Most likely an injector or the harness
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/td5-injec...lems-23373.html
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Err no. Ive never talked to V8 LR owner that complained about lack of low down torque.
Trust me, when you've tried a good V8 you will want to put that coal-burner where it belongs - in a generator...
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Been there done that, I had to drill a bypass hole (~5mm) in mine as they don't come with one and they then get airlocked and won't open
I'd gladly pay the 50p extra it may cost them to make a hole in the damn thing if it means it actually works
Arrrggghhhh ... after hours of thinking about this i just realised .. If it was airlocked at the stat then the temp reading may of been air temp rather than water temp so i may of killed it !
no ... no ...
let me go pray ...
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They'd better be I just ordered two swivel kits
Alright somehow I've been triggered, read no further if you don't wanna hear rant...
RE the Carlisle crowd, it's the way of things these days and it really gets my goat.
Very few people demand good customer service these days and so most retailers don't offer it. This 'Have you a part number' sh1te - the answer is 'No but then Land Rover don't pay me to do your job for you, now start clicking your little mouse'.
The other one I always get is 'do you have a chassis number' and I know that there are plenty of occurances of small differences in parts for different vehicles but 90% of the time it's the same laziness you're encountering. '99 Defender Td5 or whatever should be plenty for these guys to go on. Case in point, I bought a clutch, clutch plate, fuel pump, rocker and sump gaskets, turbo gaskets, injector loom, fuel filter, oil filter, centrifugal filter and a heap of other little renewable for this Td5 which all came to over 900Eur. I got it all from a main dealer parts department and the old prick behind the counter tried that 'chassis number' plop with me at first. And I could see him call up 99MY Defender on his screen as he said it. When he saw the list he wasn't long 'figuring it out'.
Another part of the problem is that the biggest customers of these main dealers part departments are their own service department. If more independant mechanics gave quality service and used genuine parts instead of gold digging then these parts guys would be more on their toes too.
I'm a self professed lover of all things old fashioned granted, but good, helpful, diligent and friendly customer service should never go out of fashion.
I say force the issue every time you encounter bad service, it's the only way to get back to the good old days
Totally agree .. but i think most of the problem is lazyness.
So instead of using the dealer i use this forum, paddocks , m+m and anywhere else anyone recommends.
Interestingly .. Because i was so p***sed off at being offered to pay for the hire of a discovery rather than a few hours of test driving, I went back to the showroom a week later, with a shirt un trousers on. Couldn't keep the salesman away.
Started getting interested in a new truck again so went back one day after taking the sheep to the abbatoir. Back to the 'looks poor'.
Salesman not interested again.
Whats even more weird is that it works with the parts dept as well. Go in coverted in oil or Sh** and they can't be bothered. Shirt un trousers un they run around after you. Wot's clothes gotta do with it ?
I'm not a real farmer, i just got a few animals lying around ..
But i think landrover should remember who its customers were before the chelsea tractor was invented.
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Another good reason to be in a tdi
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Got to admit I quite like Paddocks, budget parts and I'm happy with that, but easy to buy (preferred the old web site) and the staff are friendly so they continue to be my first port of call. But...
when a Paddock part is not good enough where do you go? Local dealer is good but I have to call by to even find out the cost of a genuine part and then have to wait while they order it in.
So for online ordering of genuine parts where do you go?
I agree... most paddock parts are good.
Problem is working out which one are not.
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Try spending 6k on an engine remanufacturing and have a cam follower disintegrate, then have the dumbass who was driving at the time think it to be something minor and continue on for 300 miles...
Don't take this the wrong way cause it's meant as consolingly as possible but if you want a part to act like a genuine part then buy a genuine part.
Wow .. I'd be well gutted.
I have a few issues with genuine parts. The main one is that my local land rover dealer is Carlisle. When i talk to them about parts, the first question from them is 'do you have a part number'. Normally i do but sometimes i just want something fairly simple or ask a very basic question. I may as well go to the toyota dealer cos they would be about as much help.
A couple of examples.
1) Clutch pedal assembly from a 300tdi defender. They couldn't work it out, so i had to do the research myself and get the part number. With this i could order it. But why couldn't they work it out ?
2) O-ring from the oil cyclone thingy that goes in the rocker ..
Answer was .. Don't know about that .. We don't stock them .. Don't know how to get the part number to order one ..
However he did give me one from a box of bits that nearly fit. Not nearly enough though.
I could go on and on and on
I went to Carlisle to buy a new Defender when they came out with the ford engine. I asked to borrow one for a few hours to try it out, and then try a new Discovery for half a day. I thought this was reasonable as i have never driven a new discovery so it may take a bit of getting used to. And the defender will feel quite different.
The salesman offered to hire one to me and gave me a silly price for a days hire of one.
Needless to say i still drive my 1991 van.
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Been there done that, I had to drill a bypass hole (~5mm) in mine as they don't come with one and they then get airlocked and won't open
I'd gladly pay the 50p extra it may cost them to make a hole in the damn thing if it means it actually works
Mine had a hole with one of them little balls on a stick in it.
So is this a common thing ?
Do i need to drill another hole ?
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I think the best thing to do would be to make a side exit and loose the rear scilencer.
I was thinking of doing this some time when it comes to changing my exhaust. Cant be too hard for an exhaust maker to make one for you in stainless or buy this one ready made
check this out. http://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page10.html
That is awesome
Many thanx
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I believe its just for sound proofing
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A standard tdi exhaust will get in the way - but that's not a major problem really.
short of a few mounts, i'd think adding a td5 tank and filler should be relatively easy.
Any ideas for modding the exhaust ?
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Good job you found it before damage was caused
Yeah but new parts should work
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I just finished a partial rebuilt of my landie engine, including fuel injector pump ,injectors, top end, water pump, k+n, gearbox rebuilt, transfer box rebuilt, clutch, kenlowe fitted, timing belt etc etc.
Took it for a good run today and all seemed ok but temp needle got all the way to 3/4. It normally never gets above 1/4. The internal heater was hot as well. I stopped to take a look and found that whilst the heater matrix pipes were hot, the radiator hoses were both cold.
So Hundreds spent .. It all runs smooth as a babys butt.. The part that lets it down is the £3 cheap **** thermostat from Faddocks.
Sooooo annoyed that i didn't test it before fitting it.
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Check / replace your glow plugs.
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I've just done a part rebuild and din't bother replacing my water hoses as they seemed ok. Oil breather hose on mine were all starting to go though both side of that cyclone seperator.
Gotta stop spending at some point !
Hose that is joined into the bottom hose to the bottom of the expansion tank is about 25mm internal bore and the one from the top of the expansion tank to the top left of the rad id about 8mm internal bore.
Sizes are guessed just to give idea of size of pipe to be looking for.
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I don't have time to answer all your points right now but just want to check that you did bleed the clutch hydraulic system after overhaul?
Excuses excuses
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1 - I have never inspected a clutch release bearing before – what should I be looking for? ... Should always be replaced with the clutch plate. Bought as a kit. Normally checked by listening for noises like rattling when pedal up an quiet when down. Or squeeling noises that come and go when taking foot on/off pedal. obviously with engine running. Even when starting to rattle they can last 40,000 miles.
2 - would air in the slave cause the clutch not to disengage? Surely there would be some resistance? .. Yes and yes .. depend on how much air. If you have bled the cylinder and it seems ok then its probably not that.
3 - is there anything else I should check before reassembling? Has the clutch arm got a hole in it where the pin from the slave cylinder should go on to. This is quite common, and if you ever change your clutch you should replace this arm as well for this reason.
4 - I removed virtually all of the exhaust before separating the gearbox and engine - to make life easier in terms of access. Is there a problem with starting the engine for a short period without the exhaust attached? It can cause problems so i aint gonna suggest you do it but i have done it before to get a car shifted.
5 - if when i reassemble the gearbox to the engine, i find the clutch still dioes not disengage what is the next step? Replace the whole clutch? Can i check this out before refixing the gear box? ..
Master cylinder or clutch bearing worn through the pressure plate but both are getting unlikely unless you are noticing fluid in the footwell that tastes funny or you were getting screaming metal noises for the last 10000 miles
6 - Does anyone have any suggestions to help? (Hopefully constructive - I have already been through mild despair).
Pin fell out or pin pushed through arm
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When removing the slave cylinder there is a pin that goes between the slave cylinder and the clutch arm. It quite often falls out when the clutch slave cylinder is removed.
Check this is fitted first and then come back for round 2 if you get no success.
.... yet 
Biodiesel
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
1) Fuel quality
All the major manufacturers point out that RME must meet EN 14214 specifications.
Unrefined cold-pressed vegetable oils are not included in any brands' biodiesel approval.
A group of fuel injection specialists, including Bosch, Delphi, Siemens VDO and Denso, warn about the quality of the final fuel.
Of particular concern is the oxidative stability of blends. When mixed with low sulphur diesel, biodiesel can become more prone to deterioration.
This means that the fuel can become dangerously corrosive and gums can form to block filters and cause coking.
Biodiesel can also corrode painted surfaces, plastics and rubber, so extra caution should be taken when filling the fuel tank. On the other hand, biodiesel degrades naturally, so any overflow can be rinsed off.
2) Its a commonrail diesel. thus very high pressure. Molecular size is therefore very important.
3) Just dont do it. On the right blend it will run fine, for weeks, months, maybe even years. Then it'll be payback time.
4) If ya wanted to run on veggies you chose the wrong engine.