jimmy_neutron
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Posts posted by jimmy_neutron
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I'd say firstly it still sounds like glow plugs .. but have you not checked them ?
Your battery is probably just starting to die with all the running flat and recharging but probably not the original fault.
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that's meant [if fitted] to be the transmission overheat warning light. & is a ! inside a gearwheel
I had my light on this morning and it definately looked more like a graduated thermometer than a !
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well he's saying it wont start otherwise unless he touches the throttle so does that not tell you something. I have driven diesels for nearly 30 years including hgvs and i can tell you i have always started them this way. and if its really cold give it heat 2-3 times before you crank it over.
Yeah .. but we are talking about a direct injection engine.
Indirect injection engines should be started as you describe, however direct injection engines and common rail engines should be started just like a petrol .. Turn key and hope.
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Does that mean that i can tip my 90 to 40 degrees without catching the grass in my teeth ?
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As above check wire coming out of the back of the ignition switch for 12v when key is turned to the III position. Wire should be white with a red stripe. If you don't av 12v to chasis earth then try to engine earth. If nothing then it'll likely be the ignition switch.
If you got 12v then check that you are getting the same 12v at the starter solenoid. If you are then the starter solenoid / motor is dead.
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No it won't.
I've done same as you and dropped the pin inside after fitting a new clutch (didn't even realise a clip was meant to be there first time) and it was fine until I needed to change the slave cylinder many miles later. Managed to drop the pin inside again
(getting quite practiced at hooking the pin out) and its still to the day running without the clip.Many thanx .. but how dya get it oot ?
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Saw this .. http://www.powervampracing.com/battery_switches.asp
Anyone used one ?
Seems to have a much better switching capability + therefore less likely to burn itself out.
Not got one though .. prob will av soon.
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Still no straight answer though ... will the pin fall out when i'm driving along one day ?
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right ok i will take prop off when i get a chance and then see whats whats. Which ones do you thnk i should change vibrations being around transfer box etc. Change one on the front and one on the back either side of the box??
Take the front prop off first and check its flange angles.
Give it all a good feel.
I do like feeling flanges
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Steering-wheel mounted book holder on Amazon
I can see no road-safety implications whatsoever with this
Me neither .. It looks like a LHD Ford Sierra.
Firstly i aint seen one of them moving in years
Secondly, so long as it stays on its own side of the water, it'll be perfectly fine
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I figured it's there for a reason
Me 2 ...
Like i'll be driving down the road one day and the slave cylinder pin will fall out, fly round the bell housing , jam in the fly wheel, shatter the fly wheel, which blows a hole in the casing and rips the whole engine bay into pieces ..
Oh no .. what have i done
Anyone running without one, and if so for how long ?
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Your talking about adjusting the pump at the same time as talking about servicing the injectors.
At 130,000 miles if its had a reasonably calm life, them the fuel injectors may never of been touched and may never of been a problem.
My opinion, which is not shared by all, is to only recon known good injectors once. If at all unsure, and probably in your case replace them all with new ones. Make sure they are new and not from fleabay, polished on the outside jobs.
Once the injectors are replaced, see if ya really need to give it more go. If ya don't need it then don't do it.
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I used this setup on mine, popped it on quite easily once I'd got the hang of contortion
spread the clip over the flat bit, then force it into postition with the tube, then withdraw the flat bit.
cool ideas ..
If SimonB is right and ya don't need it then why did ya all go to so much trouble to fit it ?
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one of these, I image.
I was gonna get yan o them things on my next faddocks order.
Is 25 degrees really that bad ...
Think i better save the cash to speed up the roll cage buying.
So how far will a 90 van go anyway before ya get a flat lid ?
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I have had UJs that feel fine on the car, but were completely knkrd when the prop was taken off.
I now treat UJs as disposable items, any noise or vibration I just change them.
Me 2 ..
I was going through lots of front prop UJ's until some kind person on ere explained about offsetting the UJ's by .. i think it was about 30degrees. It also made things alot smoother. This is done by taking the prop off and pulling the prop apart on the splines and slotting it back together at the right angle.
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Got everything back together this morning and when i looked in my box of bits left over i found that i have forgotton to refit the black plastic bit that goes on the end of the clutch arm to keep the pin in place that goes to the clutch slave cylinder.
The clutch is operating, but will the pin fall out in time without the plastic thingy ?
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Hold it in the same position that it will be fitted in in the car.
Theres a large ball bearing inside that checks for correct orientation and shock. so if the reel angle is out of position then the belt will not unwind but will wind in.
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Well, since we are on the subject. The Disco that donated the engine, radiator etc already had an electric fan of unknown origin. It has straight blades and when looking at the pictures, the Mondeo fan has curved.
What practical differences are there between these two blade shapes? Are curved blades generally more effective? Or make less noise?
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What ever you do, do not knock it,,
You try and buy front or rear bumpers !! Just done an insurance job on a 04 plate,, only 2 bumper left in the country !!!!
well one now
Wow .. was thinking of one of these myself ..
Did ya try these people ?
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If ya cracked the injectors and ya getting fuel then its unlikely to be the stop solenoid
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Fuel stop solenoid is possible. Its checked normally by cracking a joint that goes to an injector slightly open and turning the engine over. This can obviously be quite dangerous.
The first thing i would check though is the glow plugs as these are most common to failure.
Disconnect the battery. Then disconnect the wires from all 4 glow plugs including the link wires that go between them. Then get an electrical meter on ohms and check between the nut threaded part of the glow plug and earth. All should read about the same. If one is reading higher or lower than the rest then change it.
If all are reading the same then reconnect the wiring and put the meter on volts dc and check for a good voltage when the glow plugs should be on. If none then check/replace the glow plug relay.
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sorry .... Welcome
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Start with the simple .. Is something hanging off .. Has something got a charred burning look to it ..
Check you alternator/ voltage regulator properly. High revs for long time means higher alternator voltage and heat for longer time. Can lead to electrical insulation break down thus componant temp fail and fault that you describe. As the TD5 is full of all electronic gadgets, all sorts can happen. Not a nice fault at all
In short.. get your Tdi back. I wouldn't trade mine even for shiney paint.
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But the LR diesels have always been, well, sufficient.
Some would go so far as saying underpowered.
Funny, but depends on what ya want ya truck for. If ya want a town racer then get an old mini, bore it oot to 1340, stick a turbo charger on it, and see if ya can pop the front window out without smashing it.
If ya want a good off roader then its low down torque that ya need. Thus diesel power. Not very fast though
(getting quite practiced at hooking the pin out) and its still to the day running without the clip.
spread the clip over the flat bit, then force it into postition with the tube, then withdraw the flat bit.
TD5 fuel tank into a 200tdi 90 defender
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I need to put an extra tank in my 200tdi defender. I have done a bit of research and listened to what others say which leave me a bit stuck..
Plan 1 was to fit a tank where the battery goes.. which leaves the problem of finding a safe and well tucked away place for the battery.
Plan2 was to fit one of them rear wing tanks .. but as most people said, it'll get damaged.
Plan3 was to fit one of them 90l marine tanks in the back of the van. But i realy could do with keeping space in the back for other things. Also concerned about raising the centre of gravity so much.
Plan4 Is to rethink about a late 300tdi / td5 tank on the rear.
Questions .. Is it true that the exhaust will need to be modified. If so is it a little bend or a major redesign ?
Anyone willing to post some good pics of the tank + filler etc from a late 300tdi or TD5 so i can do some compares with mine to see if it looks like i will be able to manage the task.
Anyone else got any good plans ?
Jerry cans no good as its for duel fuel.