jimmy_neutron
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Posts posted by jimmy_neutron
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Defenders are actually really good in crashes....ask me how i know!!!
This is gonna be funny innit
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Last year i got stopped by a National Parks guy for driving on a very large area of common land near us.
I let him rant and rave on for about 10 minutes before opening the back door of the landie and watching a few hundred sheep charging at us waiting to be fed. He immediately appologised, but maybe he could of asked first.
People are all too often too willing to judge before knowing the facts.
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Hi guys, im new to the forum and new to land rover's
i have 200 TDI disco When im driving round town ect its brilliant but when i up the speed on a long journey the temp goes up, Thre are no signs of the head gasket gone and the oil & water are fine, I have been off roading in it and cleaned the outside of the radiator with a hose to get mud off ect,
Do any of you guys have any ideas
Cheers
The Rad is very easy to check. If this doesn't work then the stat is likely.
You can check the stat by putting it in a pan on the hob. Check the pan water temp with a thermometer. For a 200tdi it should open at 88 degrees.
Another problem i discovered recently is that the stats sometimes don't alow the hot water to get to them. Thus causing the engine temp to get too hot before the stat starts to open. To rectify this i removed the brass thingy thats on the stat face. See .. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=22976&hl=
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No worries about mixing, flushing not needed. Just let the oil drain as long as you can and preferably when the oil is hot(ish) - at least 20 mins if not a couple of hours or overnight.
Before dropping the oil undo the filling bolts, stick you finger in the box and check the colour. You might have had them right and the drips from the TC only looked red.
Ta.. Good plan checking before draining . will do that.
Was definately ATF on the transfer box as i remember tasting it.
EP90 tastes gastly as stinks. ATF is not pleasant and has got a much drier feel to it.
Best not try this at home .. but true none the less.
I'm also stupid enough to put the wrong oil in the wrong box, so its just about guaranteed that i will of done.
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Yesterday i noticed that after doing 60 miles in my van that i had a red drop of oil on the underside of my transfer box. The oil seemed to be coming from the front flange. I was a bit miffed as i've just had both the gearbox and transfer box reconned.
It didn't bother me much other than thinking that i hope the flange seal sorts itself.
Today whilst sitting at work bored the penny started to drop.
I remember that whilst filling the gearboxes with oil, i had my 2 kids arguing in my ear, and fighting over who was going to help to undo the next bolt. It was quite funny really, but was obviously just enough of a distraction to me to fill the wrong box with the wrong oil.
Then i remembered that when i first took the van out after the rebuild, the gearbox was very tight and it didn't want to go into gear.
What an idiot !
So i will check tonight but i'm fairly sure thats what i have done wrong.
If i just drain the oils out and refill with the correct oil, will that be good enough or should i be flushing with anything.
Do the oils mix ok or will they turn to clay or foam ?
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Hi guys, im new to the forum and new to land rover's
i have 200 TDI disco When im driving round town ect its brilliant but when i up the speed on a long journey the temp goes up, Thre are no signs of the head gasket gone and the oil & water are fine, I have been off roading in it and cleaned the outside of the radiator with a hose to get mud off ect,
Do any of you guys have any ideas
Cheers
Are we talking about going from 1/4 to 1 degree over half way ?
Or are we talking about getting to the red ?
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This has been posted in another forum, but Im not sure how many people read each one, so here goes...
Just paid over the odds for an old 110 2.5TD (1988) and spent too much getting it through the MOT, Now it's started miss firing at the higher end of the speed range. It seems to be fine through all the gears, even if i rev the nuts off it but as soon as i got above 50 it started to die, like taking you foot off the peddle. Once the revs dropped a bit it would pick up again but only until the speed got back up over 50. I've changed the fuel filter and it could be a little bit better (now seems to do it over 60), or it could just be my imagination! The lift pump was replace about twelve months (1000 miles) ago so i left that alone.
I don't know a lot about this engine, what sort of top end will it have anyway? is there any mileage in changing the glowplugs (do they deteriorate like spark plugs?) or injectors. Can i perform any tests to see if it is a fuel related problem as i suspect?
Can anybody help, the other half isn't very happy as i sold her shiny little Polo to buy myself this Landy!!
May be worth watching where this goes as it sounds slightly similar, just obviously different engine.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...rt=#entry234890
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To be any use for saving on taxes etc you will need to get your newly developed landie tested and registered. This costs £10,000+. So unless theres alot of peeps gonna do the same mod, then theres probably no saving.
The testing will also rule out the running on the starter motor.
Good plan though ...
Another plan is to use mist water into an engine and then explode the water with a magnetron. A magnetron is the bit in a microwave that does the microwaving. This works in the same way that if ya were to take some water and make it into a small ball with cling film. Then excite it with a magnetron, it will explode violently.
So ya could use this principle in an engine?
Please do not try this though cos its highly dangerous.
Thats my thought over for today .. I hope i don't need to have another
http://keelynet.com/energy/microeng.htm this was back in 99
http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/7002121-description.html from 2006 .. wonder who's sitting on the patents for the car versions though. If the claims are correct then its free motoring. Top up with water and off ya go. May see a few oil companys cringe ... hmmm.
http://www.abovetopsecret.com/forum/thread28829/pg1 .. Be careful how far ya go with ya hybrid thing, if the claims on this site are right then ya may just disapear
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Amazing stuff .. I have got this rash on the top and bottom of my doors, and my back door is just about dead.
I'm just about to buy a replacement back door from paddocks or somewhere like that. Any advice to prevent the bubbling happening again after i fit my new door ?
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Plasma cutter. Not cheap but your life is not complete without one.
I once worked in a place where the workshop had a plasma cutter... Nothing was complete after i'd discovered how much fun it was
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I reckon you could change your vehicle fuel type from petrol or diesel to hybrid on the V5 then sent it to Swansea. You would then have to change the taxation class on the V5 which has to be via the local DVLA office.
To be any use for saving on taxes etc you will need to get your newly developed landie tested and registered. This costs £10,000+. So unless theres alot of peeps gonna do the same mod, then theres probably no saving.
The testing will also rule out the running on the starter motor.
Good plan though ...
Another plan is to use mist water into an engine and then explode the water with a magnetron. A magnetron is the bit in a microwave that does the microwaving. This works in the same way that if ya were to take some water and make it into a small ball with cling film. Then excite it with a magnetron, it will explode violently.
So ya could use this principle in an engine?
Please do not try this though cos its highly dangerous.
Thats my thought over for today .. I hope i don't need to have another
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Swarfega for cleaning ya engine.
newspaper for cleaning ya windoze
fairy as screenwash
The mrs sez that the hoover works on the cab, but i don't believe her
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Jack one side of the car up so that 2 wheels are off the ground.
Engage diff lock and gearbox in neutral, handbrake off.
Obviously make sure the car isn't going to roll away.
Mark both wheels at the top with some pink paint.
Turn the back wheel 20 times.
Watch the front wheel follow exactly.
After the 20 turns, how many rotations did you miss and how many degrees are you out ?
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Aah, some interesting points. My injector pump was leaking before i got the car, so i had it rebuilt by diesel bob with heavy duty veg-oil proof seals. cold starting can be a problem, it takes a min or so to get going, whilst she smokes like a chimney, but after that you really wouldnt know any different. I intend on running 100% veg in the summer, providing its warm, and not an Arctic summer!!!
All that smoking like a chimney is the part thats causing the most damage.
Also running this way you are probably getting about 23mpg. With a proper conversion you should get back to 28mpg.
I see that adding up as well.
your solution. (worked out on 55p per litre of veggie)
28mpg @ 110 per litre = £4.95 per gallon = 17.68p per mile
23mpg @ (110x 20)+(55x80) divided by 100 = 66pence per litre in your tank with a 80/20 mix. = £2.97 per gallon = 12.9 pence per mile
So you save 4.78 pence per mile. Which is an impressive £956 in 20,000 miles.
Twin tank.
28mpg @ 55 per litre = £2.475 per gallon = 8.84p per mile
Thus saving 8.84p per mile on diesel cost = £1768 in 20000 miles
And more suprisingly .. saving £804 on your method of an 80%veggie and 20%diesel mix in 20,000miles. And without the engine damage, poor cold starts, smoking the place out etc etc.
As the proper kit only costs about £500 from dieselveg .....
Hope this answers your query
OH .. DISCLAIMER .. FIGURES AND ACCURACY OF CONTENT NOT GUARANTEED IN ANY WAY SO DON'T BLAME ME IF IT ALL GOES PEAR SHAPED .. ETC ETC
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This has been posted in another forum, but Im not sure how many people read each one, so here goes...
Just paid over the odds for an old 110 2.5TD (1988) and spent too much getting it through the MOT, Now it's started miss firing at the higher end of the speed range. It seems to be fine through all the gears, even if i rev the nuts off it but as soon as i got above 50 it started to die, like taking you foot off the peddle. Once the revs dropped a bit it would pick up again but only until the speed got back up over 50. I've changed the fuel filter and it could be a little bit better (now seems to do it over 60), or it could just be my imagination! The lift pump was replace about twelve months (1000 miles) ago so i left that alone.
I don't know a lot about this engine, what sort of top end will it have anyway? is there any mileage in changing the glowplugs (do they deteriorate like spark plugs?) or injectors. Can i perform any tests to see if it is a fuel related problem as i suspect?
Can anybody help, the other half isn't very happy as i sold her shiny little Polo to buy myself this Landy!!
Don't bother with glow plugs.
There are many things this could be but start with the cheapest ... Drain the fuel filter .. remove the lift pump again and pump with the lever. You should be able to hear the fuel rushing through the filter. If it sounds like a dribble or nothing then you have got your answer.
JimAttrill ...
.. I'm learning -
Could you quantify why you say this, i use a blend (80/20 veg/diesel) on my 200tdi and its fine...
Of course ..
Firstly read this .... http://www.dieselveg.com/why_should_i_convert.htm
Then here ... http://www.dieselveg.com/conversion%20info.htm
"polymerisation on the bores creating premature engine wear" is quite a worrying issue. The other ones like straining the injector pump and injector problems .. It all adds up to stressing and straining and causing premature failure of your engines most expensive parts.
One injector pump failure alone will cost you about the same as a proper twin tank kit.
At least with the twin tank you will get better mpg when cold.
Not stink so much like a chippy.
Be able to run 99% veggie depending on how many cold starts you do.
Running 80/20 in a direct injection engine with a good bosch pump will work, and i'm not saying it won't. I'm suprised you get a good cold start in winter though. Also suprised that your injector pump isn't starting to leak etc etc.
If the pump leaks, its not just about loosing the odd drop of fuel. It's an MOT failure, so its gotta be fixed.
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Stat switch fitted and works grand ta...
Unfortunately 2 Jags must of thought of that cos to be eligible for reduced taxes etc the car must be on the current Power Shift Register.
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I put new injectors in at 160k (100k miles) and took them out again at about 170k as the engine didn't go as well! I now am on 261k and the new injectors are still in the garage in their boxes. Maybe I should try swopping them again some time. Were they new or recon ?
Heard a few problems with recon injectors, but never new ones not being as good.
If they were bad uns first time, a few years won't of fixed them.
smoking on start up can be (amongst other things) a sign of worn injectors. Thus, if she doesn't smoke when she starts and drives ok throughout the range then your injectors are probably ok.
I ran a car till 200,000miles only changing the clutch once, oil+ filter changes, and brakes etc.
Never touched the pump or injectors. It ran on veggie mix for 100,000 of them miles.
My mrs wouldn't let me buy a new one cos she liked the old one. She said it was 'comfy'. Killing it was quite a challenge.
I like my landie though, so it gets whatever it wants
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And money is the right word. Always go for the cheaper options first, like the fuel pump. They don't last very long, unlike the injectors which do.
So my money is on the pump. If it isn't, at least you have a new one which is inevitable anyway.
Reread what i said ... early mornings ain't my strong point.
Agree cheapest easiest option first.
However if it seemed to come on over a period, and pots 2+3 appeared oily in comparason to 1+4. There was something else i picked up on that made me say injectors.
If the injectors are the originals then they are due to replaced as 'routine maintenence'. However, if they have ever been changed then they are not. Maintenence is subjective though cos some people maintain when broken and others maintain to try to prevent failures.
I maintain regardless of cost because i don't want to find that i need to go and buy one of them new defenders with all them electronic gadgets that are waiting to go wrong.
Like Jim said though .. Injectors aint cheap.
£34 each from paddocks for genuine bosch ones i think. Need 4 of them though. There are cheaper places to go, its just finding them thats the problem. Prob save that back in fuel after a while anyway.
£18 for a lift pump. Definately worth doing.
Got a fence i can sit on ?
Let us know though.
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Whatever you do, don't buy the cheese ones from Paddocks, the 4 for the price of 3 ones. If you off road their life is extrodinarily short !
Mo
I second this
Fitted none branded ones on a nice reasonably dry day.
3 months of easy use with little milage.
Repaced with hardy's on a cold wet and windy day.
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Hi everyone I'm new to Landrover ownership and have not long had the pleasure of a 300Tdi 110 CSW in the family.
I'm trying to keep the running costs down (and give the Tax man as little money as possible
)and am interested in running my Land rover on veg oil, or preferably a veg oil/diesel mix as I understand this should need less alterations (fuel pre-heater, new injectors etc) than straight veg oil does. Does anyone have any experience of this especially with a 300Tdi.
Cheers Jim
Don't mix .. It'll be fine for a while, then it will die.
The 300Tdi is the second best engine ever fitted into a defender.(I'm entitled to my opinion!) It would be a shame to kill it.
Fit a proper kit. The initial outlay is quite high, but the payback is much higher than mixing, and at least it isn't killing your engine.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...rt=#entry220371
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Cheers Ian,
Just had a look at the lift pump, this is looking like the suspect. Ive loosend the bleed screw on top of the filter and cranked it over. No fuel came out. I then worked the pump lever & I didnt get any fuel out. Ill go & get one in the morning & change it.
Many thanks
It is possible that the injector pump will drag the fuel away (and air) quicker than the lift pump can provide fuel.
It is also possible that the little lever on the back of the lift pump does nothing. It depends on the lift pump cam position. You need to try the pump then turn the engine a bit on the bottom pulley then try again. Not saying its not the lift pump cos it probably is, just saw a possible flaw in your testing.
My money is on the injectors.
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help
can't listen to magic when i turn the dash lights on i get static on the radio very bad turn lights off no static ?
tryed the wifes radio from her car still the same ??
tryed extra earth on the ariel still the same
only happens on when the dash lights are on
getting very upset now
dan
You could try a different live feed for the radio. Say as a temporary, a live from the fag lighter.
I had similar, but was just when i put the wipers on. Gave up trying to find a logical explenation and just ran a new feed in.
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They don't want it to run on veg oil because they got a back-hander from some rich Oil Tycoon in Arabia.
Also in 2 yrs they will release an engine solely designed to run on Veg Oil so it will make everyone go out and buy that one instead.
just my 2 pence worth...
They say that the market is customer driven. Problem is that most manufacturers are getting quite out of touch with what the customer wants.
It would be very simple to make a diesel run solely on veg oil especially if done at the design stage. As for rushing out to buy one ... Definately not. It'll be another computerised, over complicated gadget riddled piece of **** thats doing a very simple job.
If you want one now though ... just buy a 200tdi fit a heat exchanger etc from dieselveg and a kenlowe prestart heater that goes in ya water line. Job done. This is for SVO though. Not so practical either but could maybe be preheated with a battery and invertor.
'08 Nissan Navara rubbish motor
in International Forum
Posted
That is really impressive ... 40mph crash and thats all it did.
Shame about the chassis bend .. Will ya not fix her back up ? She looks a nice van.