Mark90
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Posts posted by Mark90
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Jules we will see what mat and I can come up with
I know a few comp safari drivers who are local and could be interested. Someones gotta give Jules a bit of competition
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If anything goes wrong, you can just do what Americans have always done in Europe - tell everybody that you are Canadian
I have known americans who were traveling round the world, doing the gap year backpacking thing, that have gone as far as sticking a maple leaf flag on their backpacks. Opens many more doors, or is it gets fewer slammed in your face
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I ordered some NRC8477 (came from Bearmach via Exeter 4x4) when I wanted something a little more than red/whites, unfortunately they where less than 18" free length. I'm not the only person to have found this, think Dave Lang had the same experience too. Seems to be a common mistake regarding the details on this spring. Might be worth getting somewhere to measure one before you order.
I check the shed, must have gone in the last clear out after I sold the 90, sorry mate.
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Later LT230's with cross drilled input gears have longer splines and won't fit on the earlier ZF box output shafts. You need to change the output shaft for a one with longer splines. It's an easy one bolt job.
Due to changed planes I have a new unused one from Ashcrofts and will take £20 + P&P if you are interested.
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lexus 4.0 £275 on ebay the other day including loom and ECU, happy running standalone
That's interesting. Had been looking at this as a possibility for a mates racer but the steer we where getting (well know jap 4x4 specialist) was that it wasn't easy getting them to run out of the vehicle using original ECU.
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Really you are controlling the temperature of the coolant going back into the engine, ensuring it is low enough to cool it sufficiently -that's how I see it....
[Devils advocate]
How do you know it's low enough to cool sufficiently unless you're going of the temp of the coolant coming out out of the engine?
Controling temp from the bottom hose makes certain assumptions about the temp increase through the engine and temp decrease through the rad.
If you go off the top hose you are adding extra cooling (ie switching the fans on) only when the coolant is getting too hot.
Surely it is the upper temp that is more important to control in the whole cycle?
[/devils advocate]
IMHO it doesn't make that much difference in practice if you use approprite temp switch in which ever location you choose, ie high temp in top hose and lower temp in bottom hose. But that's just my opinion and I know lots of people will disagree with it.
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Wearing a helmet is a definate YES for me after many rolls now I finaly realise that it hurts .
But The need for a fire proof helmet should realy accompany the rest of the fire proof clothing that goes with it .Good point, or rather two good points.
Basically if the MSA regs require you to wear a helmet, be that comp safari or challenge event in soft top vehicle, then the helmet must met the min specs laid out in the MSA regs (blue BS sticker this year and reg BS sticker from next, or Snell etc). Whether you agree with them or not, it's their rules if you wanna play their games.
If the regs state that no helmet is required, eg challenge event in hard top vehicle, then you can wear what you please, be that flat cap, wolly hat or your saturday night wig. I don't think there is anything in the regs that say any headwear worn when not specifically required must meet a min spec.
So the change in regs requiring a firproof lining really only effects you if you do winch events in a soft top, or speed events such as XTC or comp safari (guess what's on my xmas list this year).
Tim, only a matter of time I guess
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I agree with Chris.
And who in their right mind would press the horn while tring to nick a car
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Everyone else - so the "orange" (actually brown!) one is "close" to diagram 1? How close? How do the pin outs fit to Cipx's diagram?
Nope. Orange one is will give essentially the same circuit as option 2/my suggestion of using a 4 pin relay (there's a subtle difference, but it's basically the same as option 2 not 1). The two outputs 87 and 87b become connected togther when the relay is closed, so not seperate circuits. For option 1 you need a true double pole single throw relay, which will have two fully seperate sets of contact, ie two 30's and two 87's.
Even given the advantages of option 1, I would use option 2 for your application. Simpler wiring, one into the circuit and one out, so easy to fit into an existing wire, no need for additional fused supplies, suitable mom switch could take the load no problem (the 'load' is really only a switching current anyway).
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I agree that using a DPST relay as in option one would be better, particularly in high load situation, and better than my suggestion of a second relay for high loads. But in low current applications where the single 12V supply and mom switch are up to the limited load then my/option two is sufficient and uses more readily available standard 4 pin relay. I know how much Bish hates putting his hand in his pocket
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Think this should do what you want using a standard relay...
30 to ignition switched 12V
85 to earth
86 to ignition switched 12V via mom switch
87 to curling tongs
jumper wire across 86 to 87 to keep coil energised while relay is closed and mom switch has been released.
One potential draw back is the load pulling current through the mom switch while it is closed. Could be a problem depending on what you're planning on powering. If it's a high load you could use 87 to trigger another relay.
Just sent you a text with a pic of my back of envelope (literally) circuit diagram.
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Thanks Benny, that the one
I've bookmarked it now.I thought it was Ian who posted the the link, maybe I'm not going mad after all
No wonder I couldn't find it, how can you have a thread like that and no-one use the word gearbox
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You got my hopes up then
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I speak from experience as mine are long gone
No comment
That's not the thread.
It was definately on off site link and it was regarding 'other' makes, including yank and german IIRC
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I seem to recall a link being posted on here, maybe by Bull Bar Cowboy/Ian, I'm not sure.
It listed the vehicles the various gearboxes and maybe engines where fitted to.
I have had a search but can't find it. Does anyone have/know the link I'm talking about or recall more about the thread in question to help find it?
Or maybe I'm just loosing my marbles and getting confused about the whole thing
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Mark90 had one on ALF a while back.
Should be photos around somewhere......
Yep I did. It wasn't a full external cage though. It was external section that bolted through canvas to plates welded on to two ex-mil roll hoops mounted each end of the tub.....
Worked well for tree protection.
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i think if you look at your licence closeley you can tow behind a 7.5 ton truck upto a gross train weight of upto 12 tonne without a lgv licence,
Only if you have passed a specific test to give full C1+E entitlement. If you have C1+E as a result of passing your test prior to 1997 then look closely at your license and you will see the train weight is limited to 8.25T
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What happens if you stick a bulb across the pins for the inidactor and earth on the 90 outlet, does the bulb flash?
I had a problem with a faulty fog light switch on a vehicle last week, it showed 12V everywhere I broke the connection to check voltage, but when connected to the bulb it just dragged the voltage down to earth but light not working. Seemed like 12V was getting through the switch but not enough juice to power anything. Changed the switch and it was all fine.
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Sorry Ralph don't have the part number, I just grabbed the pic frpm the VWP website, pic is clicky link.
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If you want the cut out for security then at least consider one with a proper key like...
Those with a red 'key' are very easily switched on with a screwdriver or similar, they are even less secure than standard LR locks, and that's saying something.
Also making it less visible will help from a security point of view.
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Not sure what standard springs are on a shortened RRC chasssis, so not sure how far off suitable they might be. But be careful about going too hard for comp safari, unless you want to loose all your fillings. IMO you want softish springs with lots of damping. As an example my mates 100" hybrid uses 150lb springs all round and these work well for the vehicle weight. Shocks used to be 2x standard (which are indiividually firmer than pro-comps) on each corner but currently being changed for varidamps to give more damping.
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Another vote for a big ally rad. Oil cooler will help too, suprised you haven't already got one. Should have bought that 11 blade fan off me last year
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I've never experinced any interference issues using US spec GPRS/FRS radio's in the UK. Using them in France when skiing earlier this year it was interesting to note the the number of people using the US frequencies, with a quite a range of different languages/accents.
But The need for a fire proof helmet should realy accompany the rest of the fire proof clothing that goes with it .
I've bookmarked it now.
should i stay auto
in International Forum
Posted
Quite a number of comp safari cars use autos, some with manual shift, some without, depending on preference and budget.
Having towed with manual and auto tdi's 200 and 300 I have to say I prefer the auto for towing, with a heavy trailer the speed difference of the auto isn't noticable. However with out the trailer in tow I'd prefer a manual tdi on the road.