Orange
-
Posts
1,433 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Orange
-
-
You'd never get that drawer closed...... He'd be better off putting the children in the side lockers
-
thanks so much for every ones input great stuff!
so what do we think pay the extra for the simex? or go for the ASDA insa's?!
i have my cheepy cheep kumhos for the road!!!!
jack
Depends.......
For a set of 5 you are looking at a difference in price of roughly £600 (tyres only).....that's a whole lot of money that can be put to use elsewhere on the truck... Personally, I would buy the cheaper option and see how you get on. If you get more 'in to it', ring Devon 4x4 and order some Simex... As always, it's nice to have the best, but next to best some times allows you to do more (either to the truck, or in terms of events etc). At the beginning of December I went to a P&P site. It was very wet and sludgy. I managed the whole site on BFG MTs, only had to use diff-lock once and the rear locker at the same time... If that was all I did with the truck, I'd stick with them.
On previous vehicles I started with the Insa's and found them fantastic. The truck was well behaved when driving around, and they performed admirably in the event we entered, so I stuck with them. The only reason I am looking at Simex now is the size as Insa's don't come in 35". If you can cope with 32.5" tyres, stick with the Insa's
From a competition point of view......it's nicer (and definitely quicker) to drive sections than to winch. The more aggressive tread with the larger diameter will enable you to do that and therefore save time and effort throughout the day.
At the end of the day, it's a personal choice. If you've got £900 to spend on a set of Simex, go for it..... Bear in mind also that with bigger, more aggressive tyres come louder and more catastrophic part failures further into the drive train...
-
I presume you have found this thread...
That's all I can find on a quick search...
HTH
Adrian
-
Cheers all. If you press the trip button to reset the trip to zero, then press and hold it for 2 seconds it changes to KM.
I thought I'd tried pressing and holding before. Anyway, that's handy for checking distances when abroad.
Orange, if I asked my local dealers they'd either
a) ask me for the chassis number
B) tell me my vehicle doesn't exist
c) sell me a whole new instrument pannel. Which would still be in mph!
You need to change your dealer, then!! I've even rung mine up to find out what the code is to pair a mobile phone to the bluetooth kit in a Disco 3 that my old boss had as a courtesy car!! They were more than helpful and I think they relish the little obscure questions like that...
Any one know if this is possible with a Defender TD5?I don't even know if the dash is the same... It won't do any damage if you try... All that will happen is the trip counter will be reset to zero.* Check the handbook...
*bear in mind that this is a Land Rover and the possibilities for things going wrong are endless...
....I once turned the wipers on to clear the screen of my Range Rover and the rear exhaust silencer fell off..... 
-
I ran the 235/85/16 Special Tracks on my Range Rover and my 90 and they were an excellent budget choice. They do benefit from slightly lower pressures. We ran mine at 18PSi for one event and the difference was amazing...
Be aware that they are noisey (not as loud as Simex, though) and they do require a bit more concentration in the wet when on road, but other than that, they are a good choice.
One thing I did notice is that the compound seemed to be pretty soft, so rather than wear, they seemed to burr over to create a mushroom type effect on the tread... Not necessarily a problem, just an observation.
-
It can be changed by holding in the trip reset button. I had to do it on mine when I bought it. Can't remember how long it was, but it's definitely over 5 seconds. The number 15 springs to mind........but I'm not sure.
It''s in the handbook. Short of that, ring your local dealer and ask in the service dept. That's how I found out..
-
John - sorry. Got completely waylayed with work being plop and was busy working on the truck yesterday.
The wires that connect to the seat base are about 2" longer than the others and are black and grey.
The wires that go to the switch/power source/controller are yellow & grey.
HTH
Adrian
-
I'm with Tony on this one... The Black Rat ones have a nice deep groove so the synthetic rope sits in and stays in better. The one that came with my EP9 has sat in the garage and never been used for anything other than a bit of testing, tree moving and bumper straightening!!
-
"Defender"
That magical word that translates as:
Highly desirable, easily stealable and easy to dismantle so the Insurance Co won't ever get a penny back!!!
-
So.......
What happens when you need all 4 changing.......??? Should the tyre fitter refuse to do it as (if the points above are correct) the car will become less predictable and more 'unsafe'...
-
I have just laid my hands on what sounds like the same thing. Mine came with coloured tape on one of the connectors and the plug on the bottom of the seat base. I can't for the life of me recall any difference in length.... I will have a look when I get home later, though.
For clarity.... 2 pairs of wires come out of the seat back and clip to the frame. One pair connects to the seat base and the other to the power supply, so it should be a case of cutting the plug off, fitting some connectors and a switch/timer/variable control and powering them up. Or finding the relevant section of loom from a supplier or scrap vehicle...
-
300TDi Truck cab with an A4 page of mods. 27 yrs old, no no-claims used on this vehicle, under £300 per year limited to 5000 miles. It's with Academy Insurance...
Coincidentally, the renewal for my old 200TDi Hardtop 90 (same company) had arrived when I popped home for lunch........£124 TPFT with lift, 33" tyres, winch and locker all declared. Again limited to 5000 miles...
I found the NFU over priced, but with an excellent level of cover. Adrian Flux - won't touch again due to previous issues. Most of the other main companies that advertise in the mags have always been well over priced for my liking too...
My Disco 2 is with Admiral on one of their multi car schemes (along with the wife's Seat Leon). Doing this saved us well over £400 a year compared to insuring them both separately... Definitely worth a call if your vehicle is standard or only has a few modifications. They didn't like the idea of my truck cab a it's classed as a commercial vehicle and they won't touch anything with the words 'roll cage' in the description!!!
-
You can always swap them over when you get home.......
The tyre place I use insist on putting new ones on the back, but they soon get changed!! My thought is that there is more likely to be weight transferred to the front when braking and turning, so I'd rather have the good grip there.
At the end of the day, as soon as you drive out of the fitting centre, they are used tyres, so as long as the other pair are good, put them on wherever you like.
That said, I always try to keep each axle with matching tyres/tread depths, so putting one new one on the front and one on the rear is a no-no in my view...
HTH
Adrian
-
300TDi Truck cab with an A4 page of mods. 27 yrs old, no no-claims used on this vehicle, under £300 per year limited to 5000 miles. It's with Academy Insurance...
-
EP9 is good. Will pull well and is reliable if you give it a once over evry now and again. It does suffer with speed under a heavy load, though.
TDS 9.5 is a very good choice. Pulls well and (more importantly) consistently. Mine just never seemed to slow down under load. It's not fast, but maintains a good speed.
The main benefit of these 2 is the external brake - this means that you can (more safely) use synthetic rope instead of cable. Others that have internal brakes suffer from heat build-up on long pulls/with prolonged use and this can affect a synthetic rope.
There are, of course, cheaper options availabe. The Champion Winches are, I believe, copies of the Superwinch ones, so may be worth a look.
If you want constant speed with almost bullet proof reliability, get a Husky. The speed will be slow, though!!
-
It's a 300TDi, Jim...
Tony - you will need to build up the head with the valves, rocker gear etc, but other than that it should bolt straight on. If you drop Mark a PM (Mark is his user and actual name...), he had a new head from Turners last year for exactly the same reason and will be able to tell you exactly what you'll need to do.
Come to think of it, so will Turners...
Laters
Adrian
-
As Disco Al has done, my wires were run up the door pillar in some conduit, held down with some P-clips.
I wired them up as 2 pairs (so 2 supplies from the battery, 2 earths and 2 relays) but had only one switch (on-off) on the dash. This was mainly due to the fact that I didn't have enough suitable wire in stock to be able to wire them all up together. Plenty of smaller stuff, though, so went that route. I did plan to put in a second switch in (off-mom or replace the original with an on-off-mom one) to allow me to flash them, but never got round to it.
The trouble with running the wires up the inside of a snorkel is that at some stage you have to get them into the snorkel, creating another possible leak point...
-
Depends what type of lights you have and where they are mounted....
My RR had rectangular Ring lights mounted at the front of the roof hanging down over the top edge of the windscreen - they were damn useful when the interior light stopped working!! Fitting a bottom shield would have helped.
If you mount them further back along the roof, you will get less light falling onto the bonnet. Take a piece of string and line up the front edge of the bonnet with the front edge of the roof. Put a couple of lights on your bar and get a second pair of hands to hold/move it around. Extend the line backwards to the bottom of the lights and that is approximately where you want to mount it. Might be easier with a pair of G-clamps and a pair of test wires as you can then power up the lights to make sure they are in the right place.
HTH
Adrian
-
I am a fine one to talk when it comes to electrics (it's all smoke and mirrors, you know!!), but if you have taken a 12v feed from somewhere else (illumination or clock) be careful what you plug into it.
I regularly use an airbed pump and an inspection lamp from my cigar lighter and the small wiring won't cope with that sort of load. The original wires will have been sized as they are for a reason.
Don't want to teach others to suck eggs, but there's an awful lot of stuff behind the dash that could go up in smoke if the worst should happen...
-
You will need to fit some longer pipes. It's only low pressure stuff, so any hydraulic hose with crimped connections will do. If you look in the Technical Archive, you will find my thread showing how I did it on an Auto Range Rover. Same principal...
HTH
Adrian
-
Stupid suggestion here:
How about strengthening your dog-guard and mounting an ali hawse in it, then running the end of the belts down to the bulkhead where you have them currently..... Or coming up with some kind of frame arrangement that comes up from the bulkhead to the rear of the belt holes in the seat??
It's a bit difficult to explain, but I think you might know what I'm talking about. The only problem I can foresee is a lack of support fore/aft in the event of an accident, but might be worth exploring.
Otherwise, is it possible to put a tube across the back of the seats, fixed to either side of the hard top with spreader plates. This could either be used as the final mounting point for the belts, or just used to run the belts over to securing points lower down...
-
It certainly is... don't tell everyone, though
-
I love mine, but I do wish it was a little lighter on fuel. It's a billy basic model with climate control and a 6 CD changer. That's it... Nothing else to go wrong. There are a few others that have been experiencing problems with ACE etc, but I chose the bottom spec one for that reason.
In standard form, expect about 28mpg on a good run. I average 25 with a lot of local driving and a ruddy great set of ATs. It can get as high as 30 on a really long run at 60, but that doesn't happen often!
-
Not another Ade from Maidstone!!!!!!!!!
Welcome along...
Adrian........from Maidstone!!!
....I once turned the wipers on to clear the screen of my Range Rover and the rear exhaust silencer fell off..... 
newby would like advice
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
My old Range Rover managed everything I threw it at in P&P sites with 32.5" tyres and a 2" lift. It only proved too long when competing on a course set out for 90s... That said, with the use of waffles etc, it went most places. If you need a bobtail to go laning, perhaps you need to think about whether the particular lane should be driven...?
In addition to your 35s and lift, fit a tank guard and a HD rear bumper - truck stays legal and you don't damage the back end.
Simple...