Orange
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Posts posted by Orange
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Maybe the steering UJs need a little lubrication, or even replacing??
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Have you also considered the ignition coil??
I had an issue with my Range Rover where I had sparks everywhere, along with flooded engine. Turned out that the spark wasn't big enough. I replaced plugs, leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap. It ran briefly, then coughed and spluttered before dying at 1am. The next morning (due to leave for Wales 2 hoursearlier) I called the RAC out to have a look and he said the sparks weren't big enough for a Rover V8. Plugged in the spare coil that I had in the garage and it fired and ran faultlessly...
Away we went without so much as a missed beat on a 500 mile weekend trip...
Worth considering.
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Clutch change is a relatively straight forward job, just made difficult in a Disco by the awkward bellhousing bolts adjacent to the bulkhead/transmission tunnel. We've had an engine out of a Disco in under 2 hours before, but that was with the benefit of having done it previously.
If you run a search on here (in the Disco forum using the advances options) you will find a few threads detailing the various ways of getting the engine out...
I would budget for a garage charging you 4 hours.
Parts-wise, don't buy a Britpart one!! You'll get well practiced at clutch changes if you do!! If you ring the likes of Bearmach etc, they will sell you a complete kit (clutch plate, release plate and release bearing) and if your motor has done 220,000 miles of unknown history, you might like to replace the clutch fork, too. I believe that Delphi and Borg & Beck are the OEM.
You might also like to buy a couple of the little plastic clips that locate the slave cylinder actuator arm in the clutch fork, too... I ended up buying 3 or 4 due to heavy-handedness!!
If in doubt about part numbers etc, the search should bring them up, but a PM to Western might also bear some fruit...
HTH
Adrian
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... does it fit if i have the tow bar as well????.
cheers
I don't think there are any available on the market that fit with a standard tow bar*. That's why the likes of Southdown offer the towing attachments. It fits onto the two pins shown in Jake's picture above. They can be a little clunky (in terms of noise) but are more than up to the job.
* = quite willing to be corrected on this point...
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Ring Del at Bearmach, South East office. I did a rebuild on a 200TDi during the summer and the only part number he had to look up was the gasket between the block and timing case where the tensioner bolt goes through.....
You are right, though - a dying breed!
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Depends how much of the bulkhead you want to remove...
I went for the MUD UK one. It provided more space for the front seats to move back and recline, yet still kept the lower hald of the b/h as a barrier and to securely fix stuff to... Very easy to fit (even for me!!) and a vast improvement over the standard seating position, especially with larger seats.
I have a series of photos showing the fitting, but I've attached two of the end result for now. Drop me an email address if you want the rest sent over...
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Here you go, then...
As you can see, they fit without any trouble (especially with the proper Cobra runners and the Exmoor Trim sub frames), but they don't suit me/my body shape in the TC. As I said, they were fine in the HT as I had a bulkhead removal bar and they could recline further.
They will be for sale shortly if you are interested....
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There is always a point to having the plug in, as without it you will completely submerge the clutch/rear of crank in muddy water... I don't know if V8 rear crank seals are as good as TDi ones, but if they are, you may also end up with water entering the crank case through there...
Just remove the plug every now and then when not out playing in the mud and the heat from the engine will dry the housing...
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I do believe that that is a Golf Syncro, if my memory serves me right....
Would be amusing to see if you could get 35" tyres on it.....
Welcome along. You have many more hours of reading to do if you've only done 2 hours so far
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WRT the bonnet, try getting someone to pull the release handle while you wiggle the bonnet from side to side and up/down and see if this frees it. If it does, a few minutes tinkering with the hinge and locking adjusters should see you right.
Can't help with the seats, I'm afraid. I bought a bottom spec one to avoid this sort of problem!!
Cheers
Adrian
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Would you like to add your post code and house number, please??
It always amazes me what some people post on an open forum!!
Nice little trick, but the whole point of little things like this is that they are discreet............each to their own, though
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I wouldn't say 'copying' is the right term..... How many +2" suspension kits, rock sliders, roll cages are there on the market!?! It was only a matter of time before some of the other major cage companies caught on to the idea having seen how successful the NOR ones have been...
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I have, Keith, but they are on the camera that SWMBO has in her handbag currently!! She'll be back in a while, so I should get them up this evening...
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Just out of interest, are any of you (soon to be) proud owners of P&P cages combining your cages with their Tubular Wing Kit??
I (and probably a few others, too) would be interested in how they compare to the NOR Challenge Wings from price, quality and fit perspectives....
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Tony's link is to a full roll cage. I don't think this is what SVX90 is after... and it's not the question being asked.
The second picture posted by SVX90 shows the external bar that (I beieve) is an option on the SVX. It is purely cosmetic and has no mountings to the chassis, only to the wings and roof. It will be there for looks/light shrubbery protection only and will not provide any support or protetion during a roll over.
Tornado Motorsport offer one HERE and it appears to mount to the top of the wings (at the bulkhead) and the roof (behind the doors/in front of the alpine windows). The pictures on the Tornado site are on the Roll Cages page, 6th link from the bottom of the list.
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Pete.....You are a diamond. Why couldn't they tell me that when I rang up to discuss things with them on Wednesday!!
Sorted now. A pair of brand new take-out std Defender seats in Techno Trim will be with me on Monday!!
Nice!
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This is my secondary option, but having hunted for a while, I haven't found anything worth salvaging.....yet. Ebay is a useful tool, but things are expensive and are either uneconomically North of where I live, or there are fundamental bits missing/broken...
One pair I have looked at went for £180 (reasonable condition bases and backs), but 2 of the 4 mounting points on each of the bases were broken off......that makes the nigh on useless and I'm not paying that sort of money for useless seats!! Hence my wanted ad. You may argue that it's an easy fix, but I can't weld and hate paying for things to be 'bodged' when I can wait a while and buy the complete item in the first place and save a load of b#ggering about.
I'm quite happy to 'make do' with a set of std seats for now, but they need to be at a price that reflects the age and condition and that's just not happening at the moment!!
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Thanks chaps. Much appreciated.
Seems that this might be one area that LR did some research and actually came up with one of the best solutions themselves. Having looked around and done some asking about prices, no-one is willing to budge on the prices of the Exmoor Trim stuff, so it looks as if it's going to be a little too much to spend at the moment... I'll have to suffice with a bitsa for now and save a few pennies for next year!!
I've posted a wanted ad if anyone has any seat runners etc. going begging...
Cheers
Adrian
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I have a little dilemma to put to the panel hoping that someone can offer some real world experience of different seats to go in a TC 90.
I currently have a pair of Cobra Daytona 'fast road sports seats' in the truck, but they are proving a little uncomfortable. They were fine in the hard-top they were in previously, but as they are more upright in the TC they seem to push my shoulders forward into an uncomfortable position as if I'm hunched over the steering wheel. They also have quite high side bolsters and sit at quite an angle at the base, so are proving a little impractical to use. Placing spacers under the back mounting points is how I solved the angle problem in the HT, but if I do the same in the TC, my head rubs on the roof lining and that gets a bit annoying!! I am 6'4" first thing in the morning after a good sleep, so I'm not expecting Range Rover levels of space and comfort, but...
I have my eyes on a few of alternatives, the only problem is I have no experience of them and wonder if others have:
1) used them.
2) tried them and excluded them as uncomfortable/impractical
3) come across any other examples that would suit.
I know there are various retro-fits utilising Rover 220 turbo seats, or Peugeot 205 sports seats, but one of the main criteria is to retain relatively easy access to the battery box under the passenger seat. I can currently remove the passenger seat in under 2 minutes, but I really don't need any more practice. I would also like to make things easy for scrutineering at events and not have to remove the seat for the batteries to be inspected. AFAIK, this means that I am basically limited to the following from Exmoor Trim:
1) The Defender Elite:
2) The Trakker Modular seat:
3) The standard Defender seats:
4) The Le Mans Sport Seat:
5) The NAS spec seat:
Here comes the difficult bit (well, for me, anyway)!! The truck will be used for competing, Green Laning and as a weekend runaround for a break from the Disco. I also need to consider that my wife occasionally joins in on the green laning side of things, so the seats need to be vaguely comfortable for her and her dodgy back. I would also like to be able to cover long distances in relative comfort (I know it's a Defender, hence the 'relative' bit
) and not get out at the other end feeling like I've just gone 5 rounds with Tyson!!So my general questions to the panel relate to comfort, useability, support whilst off roading, practicality and all that other softy stuff that I don't usually worry about!!
Also, how does the NAS spec seat differ from a standard Defender seat??
Anyone with real world experience of the above? I know we've all had the standard defender seats, but I've never had 'new' ones, so have no useful experience of them if you know what I mean!!
Thanks in advance..
Adrian
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The Technical Archive has what you need. Bottom of the index page gives a link to THIS THREAD.
Hope it's of use...
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I hate doing this, but there is a button in the top right of the screen with the word "Search" on it.
If you select the advanced options link, then the 'further options' link, you can type the words 'buying' and 'discovery' into the box and tell it to look only in the Discovery forum.
I've just done it and the first articles of use to you are on page 2 of the results with more coming along on pages 3 and 4...
Otherwise, on a Disco 1 look for rust in the footwells, sills, inner arches, rear floor and rear body crossmember. Buy a 300TDi if you can afford it (you haven't given any budget ideas).
On a Disco 2, look for a good regular service history. Other things to look for include oil in the injector loom (quite cheap and easy to replace), dodgy air suspnsion (ACE) at the rear.......
Go on.......spoil yourself with some 'Me' time and hit the search button
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For getting the TREs out of the hub, undo the nut until the thread is flush with it, apply a little upward pressure with a trolley jack and hit the hub arm with a sizeable hammer. There will be several blows before the TRE lets go, but it will get there. Always worked for me. How much pressure to apply with the trolley jack depends on how brave you are feeling - start with a little and increase slightly if they are being obtuse!!
As for getting the TREs out of the track rod/drag link........pop to your local spares shop and buy some new ones. Unless they were recently fitted, in which case a warm up with a blo torch might see them loosen slightly!!
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Two sets of mirrors is exactly what is needed. One for me to look in (the standard ones are sufficient for the 14ft box trailer I will be using) and one for the examiner to look in, as clbarclay says... Basically set up as if the car was left hand drive, so the examiner can see where the trailer is in relation to kerbs etc...
Mouse Man - those are the type of thing that I have been looking at, but didn't know if anyone had experience with any that don't flap around in the wind. My only experience is of cheap ones that get thrown off at the first stop in the services because the 60mph breeze blows them all over the place!!
Chris....
PM on its way.Lets see how we get on...
Thanks folks!
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I know, I know.......I don't really need them, but as I was lucky enough to pass my driving test after January 1st 1997, I don't have any allowances on my liscence, therefore need to take a separate test in order to tow anything bigger than 750kg on a braked trailer... (I know it's more complicated than that, but in a nutshell...)
So, I need to provide extended mirrors to enable the test examiner to see what is going on with the trailer - basically, I need a set of extra mirrors set up as if the car was left hand drive...
Do Land Rover offer a set (I can't find any from a brief search)? Otherwise, what have you used and found to be a good firm fit?
They are to be fitted to my TD5 Discovery if it makes any difference...
TIA
Adrian
PM on its way.
abs light
in Discovery Forum
Posted
I'm fairly sure that your system is the same as fitted to the Rand Rover Classics, if so, there is a thread in the Tech Archive about fault finding and resetting...
It's a case of shorting one pin to earth and letting the ECU perform it's fault process (flashing the ABS light on the dash) until all of the faults are clear.
HTH
Adrian