Orange
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Posts posted by Orange
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Are the type you have the mushroom-head ones?? If they are then you have an imperial casing and the newer ones won't fit.
If you have either of the later types (one piece flat head, or two piece shaft and flange with a rubber cap), then they should fit...
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The angle looks correct to me as when you open the door, the bracket will pivot to about the same angle on the opposite side.
It must be fairly easy to hold it in place and swing the door while watching what happens when you hold the bracket in different places. My guess is that if the bracket is mounted centrally, the door will not be fully open when the bracket is hitting the remainder of the carrier...
Does that make sense??
If it's cosmetics you are worried about.......put the wheel on and you won't ever see it again!!!
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Looks to me like the mount is one from a CB aerial (gutter mount) and the wire runs into the back of the vehicle past the rear door seal.
My choice would be to drill a hole, insert a grommet, then pop the wire through from the inside. A bit of silicone sealant would make it watertight... If you come below the gutter line with the hole, there will be less water getting onto it and the panel is also double skinned, so you can reach up from the rear light and run the cable along the underside of the vehicle, rather than inside behind all of the trim.
IIRC, it's quite easy to find the switches that fit the instrument panel surround, so you could quite easily add one with a vaguely correct logo, or pop a hole in the dash for a normal push/toggle switch and away you go... Just extend the wires up from the reverse light and wire the lamp in paralell (I think, but I'm no expert) so that it will come on with the reverse light, or with the switch.
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If I have to remove wheels and work underneath, I normally lie the wheels under the sills/rock sliders. That way the vehicle can only fall so far if the worst were to happen and if it does, then I may have to replace a wheel/tyre and not a wing/hub/brake disc/caliper etc...
I must admit that the 90 is no problem to get under, but the Disco involves quite a bit of breathing in as it still wears it's front valence and side steps...
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Take the original oil cooler hose and an idea of what you now need into your local hydraulics place and ask them to make one up.
The hose needs to be oil resistant, but apart from that, it's not overly high pressure, so it should be do-able from off-the-shelf parts.
I have a good local place that react nicely when you talk about paper with the queen's head on...
For Silicon hoses, try a search on ebay of google. There are loads of places that offer a wide variety of sizes and pre-formed bends along with any connectors/reducers yo may need. Not exactly cheap, though.
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Ok. Thanks for the replies.
Next silly question... do all foam extinguishers contain the same stuff?? There seems to be a big difference in price. One site referenced offers 2ltr AFFF for £25 and another shows 1.75ltr for £54... Are they actually different, or is one company taking the p#ss?
I have a little experience with fire extinguishers, but not enough to know the answer and most sites don't give explanations, just size and price...
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The fault diagnosis for the Range Rover ABS system (which I believe is the same) is in the Technical Archive. Have a read through and see what you can deduce. When using the process on my old Range Rover, we earthed the correct pin to the chassis using a test-wire and the ABS light flashed.
I remember it was the ABS light because I had to put the bulb back in
to do it!!! -
I've currently got a 1kg powder extinguisher in the 90, but in order to compete in the Challenger series, I'm going to need either an AFFF or Zero 2000 hand held one (minumum 1.75l and 2.25l respectively).
Having had a search around, i've found very few references to them on here. The two I have found have pointed me to ebay which currently lists 0 at the moment when you search for AFFF ones. There are loads of extinguishers, but most are plain foam, or powder ones...
I have found them on a couple of other websites like Demon Tweeks, but am wondering if anyone has any other ideas as they seem a little expensive.
Don't get me wrong, I put a high value on my, my co-drivers and fellow competitors lives, but I am still a tight git at heart and would like to explore more avenues than the first one I come across...
Also, what have you got and how have you mounted it?? I'm thinking that below the join between the rear bulkhead and the truck cab is probably best, but am always open to other ideas...
TIA
Adrian
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I blame Paul Wightman!!! Indirectly, of course, but it's definitely his fault somewhere down the line!!
Our dad is a keen restorer of old vehicles (mainly buses) so it was only natural for us to get involved in spanner-slinging from a young age. Mark and I restored a Series IIa 109 to its former glory from the chassis up and I've had an interest in Land Rovers since then, but a marshalling experience at one of Paul's Slindon events was what pushed me over the edge!!
Seeing a bunch of nut-cases throwing their 90s etc into places that I deemed impossible to walk was a truely enlightening experience. I knew I'd fit right in....
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WRT the chassis moving when the panhard rod is removed, if you are worried that you won't get it back, put a strong ratchet strap between the O/S lower spring mount and the N/S chassis rail before removing it...
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As above - rear output flange oil seal is the most likely candidate. Fairly simple swap/renew...
The oil may also be coming from the PTO drive cover plate (above and to the left of the brake drum as you look at the rear of the box). I've just had to replace the gaskets on mine...
Another possible leak point is the speedo drive. Fairly simple to remove, renew the seal and o-ring then replace.
Also, it's worth noting that every LR I've had leaks around the top of the box (can't remember what the piece is called but it's where the breather pipe attaches to, I think) and with the air movement underneath the car, the oil seems to go everywhere...
HTH
Adrian
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There are a few options on the Car Builder Solutions website that may be adaptable, but I don't think they have exactly what you are after...
We had to replace the bump-stop bracket on a Range Rover a while ago. Had to bend a suitable off-cut of plate and drill the locating hole for the bumpstop when it was welded to the chassis. I hunted around at the time and there weren't any replacement parts available, but since then, Paddocks have been slowly introducing various brackets...
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You might be better off fitting some air helpers - effectively they are air bags that fit inside the springs that can be manually pumped up to the required pressure to help cope with heavier loads... I know Mark (Mark) would be able to shed some light as I know he has them fitted to his 300TDi Disco.
Incidentally, should the caravan have that much affect on the rear end of the vehicle. I'm sure there are some guidelines somewhere, but memory says you should only have about 100kg of nose-weight bearing on the tow bar...
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At about 1:30 - can I see red and blue flashing lights in the distance?? Not suggesting that anyone was breaking the law, but would love to hear what the opinions of the Fuzz were if it was them...??
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Depends wether you want the steering to self centre, the props to remain unbound when articulation and the radius arm bushes to last any length of time.
Most +2" kits don't require it, but start going to +3" and more and you'll feel the problems starting.
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An MoT is an inspection of the vehicle on one day of a year. The test is as reliable as the Tester that carried out the inspection... Some are good, some are bad and others are useful to know
In a lot of cases, garages have one 'qualified' tester but the inspections are carried out by other garage workers with the final signature on the ticket being that of the 'qualified tester'...
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Exmoor Trim don't sell to the public any more... You might have to ring one of their outlets (like Paddocks). Just go to their website and there is a list of outlets around the country. Bera in mind that the prices will vary, so ring a couple...
The bracket will fit straight on to the bottom of the seat using the 4 mounting points that are standard on all cobra seats, so no problems there.
And, finally, I'm 6'3" too, so you may struggle. I had the same seats/runners/mounts fitted in a hard top 90 prior to buying my truck cab and they were fine because the seat could recline a bit further. It's the top part of the truck cab that causes the problem.
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My Range Rover ended up with 2 sheets of perspex in the rearmost windows. Shatter-proof and still able to see through them - best of both worlds!!
Remove the window glass and trace around the glass onto the perspex, then slowly cut them out with s atanley knife and a straight edge. If the perspex is thick enough you won't need to do anything other than refit them. If it's thinner, just run a bead of mastic around the window rubber to keep the worst of the water out...
The mastic will also help hold a piece of string in the rubber, which, when pulled, makes the rubber flick out and the window sit in properly (if that makes sense...).
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Take off the door card, lower the window half way, ease the window out of the channel and lift up. Support it with a couple of bits of wood through the numerous holes in the door. You can then operate the window mechanism as see what's happening.
Both the motor and the channel can be replaced through the door without completely removing the glass and the door top, it just takes a bit of patience and a lot of wiggling to get a replacement channel in...
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Exmoor Trim do a mounting bracket for Cobra seats. Bolt the seat onto the frame and bolt the frame to the Def. seat box using the standard mounting points. IIRC they were £16 each when I got a pair, so £32 for the pair and simple to fit.
If you want to be posh, you can buy the runners and bolt them to the base of the seat, then bolt the frame to the runners. This is the set up I had, but found that my head rubbed on the headlining in my truck cab...
Bracket can be seen HERE
Runners HERE and you might get away with just one for the drivers seat. Certainly a lot cheaper than what was being talked about above...
To be honest, I think the best way of fitting bucket/sports seats to a Defender and retaining access to the battery box is with a pair of THESE ... I'm not entierly sure how comfortable they are, but they look like they might be quite useable.
Edited to add:
You may find it very useful to have runners on both seats as it makes getting them out a lot easier!! When mine were in, I was down to under two minutes to get the passenger seat out with a battery rattle gun, a 13mm socket and a short extension... Not too much of a problem!!
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Also worth a look are the Silverstone Xtreme... 33" or 35" varieties available:
About the same price as the Fedimas IIRC...
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The relay click and the lights getting brighter is probably the glow plug timer deactivating...
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Can I bring this one back to the top to ask for others' experiences...
I have been looking further into getting my trailer entitlement, however a couple of companies have advised me that I would not be able to tow a car trailer with LR on it behind my Discovery as I will exceed the maximum allowable weight for the B+E entitlement.
It was my understanding that if I pass the B+E test I could tow up to and including the trailer's plated weight/mass behind my Discovery, so say 3.5T (of LR90 on a decent trailer with brakes) behind my Discovery weighing in at approximately 2.7T..... Is that not the case, then??
The last company has told me that the GTW cannot exceed 4.25T (so 3.5T plus a 750kg trailer!!!), but that sounds like they are getting confused between the ordinary category B entitlement and the B+E one... Please tell me that they have got their figures wrong cos I am a little confuddled at the moment...!
Is there an upper limit on the GTW in the B+E category......cos if there is, I can't find it anywhere!!!
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35/12.50/15 Creepy Crawlers will come up at about 34" if my research and information is correct, so shouldn't be too much of an issue height-wise, but with the 12.50 width, you will have some serious work to do to the arches/rear doors and the tops of the inner arches to allow them to move freely and not chew themselves up.
BFGs would be the best all rounder, but again the width might be your downfall...
to do it!!!
RANGE ROVER HALF SHAFTS
in International Forum
Posted
There is always a chance, but in this case, it'll be a fight. I believe the hub will need to be re-drilled to the correct fitting dimensions of the different flanges. I am no expert, though. Others may have experience of doing the conversion...
It may be possible to fit later hubs, but again, I'm not sure whether the hub fixings are the same or not...