Orange
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Posts posted by Orange
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Make sure you check and double check the machining quality when you receive them. The ones I used on my axle could have done with being sent back and being refinished, the grooves in them were that bad. Unfortunately, finding some had taken a while and I was rebuilding the front axle 3 days before an event, so they got thrown on and dealt with. Even with brand new seals, I still have oil leaks from them!!!
Just a word of warning!
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Oh.......Steve!! You spotted it!!!
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I would be running 35mm^2 cable as a minimum.......
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Have you tried putting the new part in the freezer?? Should make it shrink slightly and therefore fit in the hole a bit easier...
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Would you like a spare??
I have one in the garage and currently don't own a 200 to bolt it to!!!
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Surely you are better to try rotating the tyre first.....?? Otherwise it could cost you a fortune in beads...................
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Just run an earth back down in the same loom as the supply and bolt it to the bulkhead above the brake reservoir, or run it directly back to the battery (best solution IMHO), or back to the relay earth point. Simple enough...
To make it tidy, either wrap the loom in spirawrap (or electrical tape) or put the whole lot into some convoluted tubing/trunking and cable-tie it to the cage. You can use P-clips if you are looking to get away from cable-ties...
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Consider the rear door aperture on a Disco 1, or Disco 2.........it's not the easiest space to work with when you are trying to get in and out as an adult, let alone when you are trying to wriggle a car seat in the back. I would strongly suggest taking your car-seats when going to view/try one out. It may put you off...
Disco 2s have the Isofix system as standard, but D1s don't. As Ross says, you are bordering on 'old' Disco 2 territory with your budget. Have a hunt as a low-spec T or V reg may well be the way to go.
You might also consider finding a very late Japanese Import 300TDi. It'll be low mileage and have a good history with the added benefit of not being rusty underneath!!
As Fridge says, buy some spanners and a welder, and befriend a local parts supplier!!!!!
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An alternative to the beads/BBs is what the commercial places use on lorry tractor unit front tyres - powder balance. I ran it in my Insa Turbos for a while. Same theory as the beads, but quite possibly a lot cheaper and the commercial fitters should have it in stock if you chat to them...
Have you thought that it might be the tubes that are causing the majority of the imbalance? Is it possible to try them without tubes or will the tyres not seal properly??
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Whilst the fuse block from Devon is good, I prefer to be able to have a direct negative connection to the battery, too. I went for a 6-way block from JG Tech . Slightly cheaper and gives you the negative bus too... They also sell a 12-way one if you need that many...
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Turner Engineering will probably be able to help. They won't be the cheapest, but....
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The coolant mixture is a special one - pink in coulor - so have some of that on standby to be able to top the system up to the correct level. The owners manual (or a search on here) should tell you exactly what it's called.
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Paddock service is one thing, but I'm not so sure on the Britpart side of things...
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In a challenge situation, it's not that crucial as the chances are you aren't really adhering to any 'proper' off-road driving techniques. So jumping on the brakes isn't too much of a problem (and there's normally a tree in close proximity to stop you falling over or getting too out of control).
In 'normal' off-road driving, as I said, the gear ratios can seem too different and hence 2nd low leads to braking and (slight) loss of control... whereas 1st low leads to too much engine braking and the situation that I found myself in...
Maybe others have found different......
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As Ross says, the two main benefits are the control over slow-speed manouvres and the instant power.
The main downside is hill descents. It takes away a lot of the engine braking and depending on the gradient, 2nd low isn't low enough and 1st low is too low, so you end up on the brakes and hence not quite in control of the vehicle... To regain the engine braking, it's best to blip the throttle as you start to descend, but I found that to be counter-intuitive - and slightly scary!! My first experience of an auto descending a hill resulted in the back wheels in the air and having to bury the throttle to regain ground contact!!!
If you are going up hill, leave it in D and it will sort itself out...
Just my experience...
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I would suggest that the N/S ball joint is more worn as it spends most of it's time going over potholes and drain covers at the side of the road. It can't hurt to replace the whole thing.
Splitting the TREs from the swivel housing is simple enough. Undo the nylock nut a few turns, then place your jack under it and apply a some upward pressure. Then beat the living daylights out of hit the swivel arm and the two should come apart. Repeat on the other side. Getting the TREs out of the tie-bar has always been a PITA in my experience...
Remember to apply some copper grease when putting it all back together...
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Yes, that is the other less honest approach. Personally I prefer to give the slimey b@ggers as little chance as possible of wriggling out of any potential claims...
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No problems on mine with a Stage 1 chip, de-cat and no EGR. The bloke on the end of the phone even laughed when I said that it was a performance upgrade........and I quote..."what - on a Land Rover?"
Once we'd finished laughing, he said it wouldn't make any difference at all.
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Assuming that it's not a million miles away and is worth the time, take it back to Bearmach and ask for your money back... Never had any issues with them in that department.
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Yes. Your ideas sound sensible, but as you probably know, it's not just a case of welding the box section on... There is quite a bit of cutting and remodelling to do to get rid of all the rust and to make sure the door pillars are reattached well...
Here's how we did it on my Range Rover... Same principle, just a different body shape on top...
HTH
Adrian
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You shouldn't be disappointed!!
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Halfords Advanced would be my best-buy on a budget......... The 1/2" drive one I have goes down to 20 which is about as low as things get other than 6lb/ft for the rocker cover bolts!!
I also have the 3/8" one for the small stuff, so the big one only really gets used for major work...
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...get the bitch to go halves on it, and just watch how much longer it lasts now.
Genius...........pure f-in genius!!!!!!!
Mark..........I have used Rockstomper and it snapped continuously on our first serious competitive event.
Now I use Bowrope. Snapped the back one after several short sharp nasty pulls on one section in the 6th event of the Challenger series, but that's it (and I think that's only because I put the wrong rope back on.......9.5mm isn't man enough for that sort of treatment!!). Otherwise they have stood up well to the competitions we have done.
WRT cleaning... Soaked in a bucket of rainwater for a few days, then rinsed thoroughly and hung to dry. No detergents. All checked for tears/frays before respooling for the next event.
The cleaning of ropes is somewhat debatable, though, as after the first pull in the next competition, the rope is full of cr@p again, so I'm not sure they benefit much. However, I use the theory that cleaning them can't do any harm.....
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Ok, driven my first TD5 today and to be honest I wasn't impressed.
Found it to be noisy and boomey at low revs and quite sluggish.
Was this just this car????
Not really!!
Remember that they are a heavy compromise between comfort and ability/agility. I find mine to be quite tedious to drive at motorway speeds, even with the stereo turned up, and so spend most of the time on smaller roads, or cruising at 60-65mph. However, it's one of the most comfortable cars I drive (in terms of the seats).
A quick trip to one of the many companies offering performance upgrades (JE Engineering, Twisted Performance, IRB Developments etc etc) will see a smile on your face, but you need to make sure the vehicle can cope with the extra ooomph... If the engine is tired or the injectors are unhealthy it can lead to a big repair bill...
Also worth mentioning (as others have above) is the removal of the EGR valve and the replacement of the catalytic converter (you won't need it for the MoT) with a straight through down pipe. Although this will make slightly more boom in the cabin, the responsiveness of the engine is greatly improved and the benefits by far outweigh the 'issues'.
It had no proper LR Service History despite the Dealer wanting well over the odss and there was a load of niggly little things, steering wheel off centre, discs all round had big lips at the outer edge of the discs and the gear change (auto) seemed very jerky (compared to my 16 yo RRC).
I really think its just this car but I'd be keen to hear peoples views.
Thanks
I never got on with the automatics that I drove. Some had obvious problems, but others just seemed to be bad. My RRC was also much better (apart from the clunk into reverse!!) so I chose to stick with the manual. It's a decision I regret in some ways and stand by in others. I find that first gear on my manual is just a bit too short and find I am grabbing for 2nd gear in the middle of a junction...
Walk away. Simple as that. There are plenty around that will be a whole lot better by the sounds of it, even if you do have to travel a bit and invest a bit of time to find the right one. It'll be worth it in the end as the good ones appear to be good for a long time...
Mark..........
Why would CV shaft be too short?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
^^^ wot he said!!
I know it would be a fluke for both sides to be like it, but it's happened before. How is the steering? If the wheels won't turn from lock-to-lock, then this is your problem........
Either try tapping the bronze bushes back home properly, or rotate the stub axle throught 90 degrees and refit...