Orange
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Posts posted by Orange
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I presume you've looked at this thread... Quarter panel removal
I know it doesn't help you source the part, but.........
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I've only just seen this Bish and am off out in a few... If no-one has obliged by tomorrow morning then I'll happily take a measuring stick to the garage and wave it around my spare XP for you...
Can you just confirm the term 'involute'??? (The oppsite, of course being 'extrolute'....
) I am guessing that it means angular sides with a flat bottom... but am more than probably wrong... -
If you have a look in the Tools and Fabrication section, David Lang (Landrover598) made up a nice little adapter to enable the use of one jack to raise the entire axle equally... I'll see if I can find it.
......Here you go....... Jack Adaptor
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Explore everything you can first, otherwise you will only paying someone to crawl around under your truck for an hour or so... Once you've exhausted your options, then is the time to call in the cavalry.
It is possible (having had a new tank fitted) that the feed pipe isn't continually submerged...
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I presume all of the other 2'8" of snow in the car park was all compressed under the 4" it appeared that you were driving around in....
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It's actually next year's present!! Got a holiday for this one...!! Need to keep it a little bit quiet until next December!!!
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Not strictly true, Mark... All started with the overheating, but the snapped timing belt made the whole lot a little more 'pressing'....
Skimmed head, new valves (having bent at least 2 of them), new rocker arms and valve adjuster screws having snapped 4 arms and bent 3 of the screws, new timing belt and updated crankshaft sprocket. Generally a good spruce up and it started first turn of the key and now flies along!! I can even hear the turbo spooling up and the wastegate actuator working.......how novel!!
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After 3 attempts at ridding the heater of it's airlock, I ended up taking the truck for a test drive anyway!! It seems that 60mph down the dual carriageway is an excellent bleeding device!! All is working as it should and all that's left to do now is refit the fan and a quick flush of the oil system tomorrow...
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To bring a close to this...
The head was removed and there was no evidence of a 'blow' on any of the surfaces or the gasket. Took it to be pressure tested and all was good. The machinists did suggest skimming it by 8thou to ensure that it was truely flat and to remove a slight 'dish' between No 2 and No 3 cylinders.
That done and all back together and it started on the button first time and runs really smooth. Now just got to sort out an airlock in the heater and I'll be off out for a proper test run in what's left of the snow.
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Take off the doors, tailgates, bonnet and wings. Remove the remainder of the glass by cutting the seals. The rest can be cut into smaller parts with a grinder/gas axe/plasma cutter so that they are movable by hand. Not really that much to it...
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Ali.........in the nicest possible way..........please don't....
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OEC will do you a package with a load of strops, shackles and snatch blocks etc. Worth giving Anton a call and discussing your requirements.
With regard to what to actually buy..... I can recommend the Black Rat snatch block as it has a deeper channel on the pulley and synthetic rope seems to stay in it better. A 'quick-strop' is an absolute necessity for challenging (possibly 2) as they are so much quicker than using shackles and you don't end up with a pile of shackle rings, but no pins at the end of the day...
As always, if you can buy a lot of stuff from one supplier, they will be more willing to do you a bit of a deal. David Bowyer is normally open to discussions when buying more than 1 item...
If you are desperate for it all, then you'll have to buy now, otherwise try to wait till the first show of the year The British Indoor 4x4 Show as there are bound to be show offers and you'll be able to look at what you are buying. It seems to be a bit later than in previous years, but should still be before the majority of events start in 2010...
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Make sure you disconnect the battery if you don't take the downpipe off... There is enough space to avoid 'contact' with it out of the way, but you will need to be careful if you leave it on!! Don't ask.........sparky, sparky!!
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So......if the chassis is perfectly useable, why go through all this? If you are going that far through a rebuild, why not get your chassis cleaned up and painted/galvanised and just reuse it on your vehicle?? There may be a few repairs to do on the way, but this would be a whole load easier than what you are trying to do...
Am I looking at this too simplistically???
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@ Mo!!
I really don't think kit car builders leave off 'little things' like passenger carrying seats and their associated seat belts and mountings.
Put it this way....... If your V5 says that you have 3 seats (or 2 and a cubby box), then you fit some more and go trotting off down the road and have an accident with 4 people in the car........
I know what I'd want to do to that person if (God forbid) they hit me!!!
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Ahhh.......memories.....!!
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I would guess that it's a retest because you are changing the 'class' of the vehicle. Confirmation would be required from the DVLA/VOSA/an authority on the subject!
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It is worth doing, but should be done properly with a full kit.
The kits available vary in quality. Mine was done by IRB developments and it's a good quality kit with all of the necessary parts (including a couple of blanking plugs for the necessary vacum pipes.
Have a look on the IRB website
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Sounds like one to use your warranty on...
Could be a leaking airbag or a split pipe.
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Bear in mind that there are a few 300s kicking around in the for sale section for under £500 at the moment, so this must surely be a starting point. Most have some service history and some are low mileage. Unless you fance a project and don't mind ploughing a fair amount of money into what could potentially be a right pup......even at £100!!
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The Disco and the Freelander are completely different animals!
Make sure you can live with the more 'utility' nature of the Disco. It doesn't really like motorway cruising and can be a pig to drive around town if you don't have patience. That said, I would struggle to be without mine as it does everything I need it to... It is also a completely different animal when you spend a bit of money having it 'chipped' with any of the top 'tweakers'... I personally went the IRB route and have never looked back. As soon as money allows, it'll be going back for stage 2!!
Not being entirely sure about your pattern of use, but consider the lower towing capacity of the Freelander if it's something you do or plan to do in the future. Also it's height and width often make it awkward to use day in, day out for shopping and the like!! [sexism warning on] I don't suffer, cos I send SWMBO to do all that!! [/sexism warning off]
At the end of the day, if it ticks all of your boxes, go for it. The Disco is the better all-rounder in my opinion.
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Cool. Cheers Benny.
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Any more news guys and gals?
I know you had a meeting planned......
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Is the one from Bearmach a Valeo one by any chance??
I have 4 in the scrap pile waiting to be weiged in. Finally bit the bullet and bought a replacement Bosch one and not another problem...
) I am guessing that it means angular sides with a flat bottom... but am more than probably wrong...
Winch Motor Geometry
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
1. How far does the drive shaft project from the face of the case?
70mm
2. What are the major and minor diameters of the splines?
16.5mm and 15mm respectively (my calipers aren't the thinnest so they may be a little deeper...)
Shaft diameter (unsplined) is 17mm
3. How many splines are there (I believe it is 20?)
20
4. What length of the shaft is splined?
39mm
5. Are the splines straight cut or involute?
see comment above...!!
6. What is the external diameter and width of the shaft support bearing?
35.14mm and 11mm respectively (internal diameter 15.33mm)
Couple of simple piccies to follow when I get indoors...
HTH
Adrian