Tom Goldsmith

I lined the interior of my vehicle with 12mm industrial insulation material stuck directly to the metal with high temp industrial contact adhesive and then overlayed that with automotive carpet from The Automotive trimmings Co. Works brilliantly, cost in total about 60 quid, has reduced noise inside the cab enormously and the insulation keeps it cool in summer and warm in winter with no condensation!

Thanks for that Mack. What's the problem with it? I must say I saw one at a show and thought that it protruded a long way forward of the screen. Does this make driving very close to objects like trees difficult?

I want to fit a snorkel to my 2007 Puma engined 110 and I am considering the Safari model. However before I make the purchase, I wondered if anyone has installed this already and can offer any advice. I am concerned that the brake servo blocks access to the air intake panel in the engine bay and it looks as if it will be very difficult to fit. Any comments or advice would be gratefully received. The instructions say it should take 2 hours to fit, is this realistic?

Following on from an earlier topic where this product was mentioned Cubbybox Unterfach I am thinking of fitting one below my new Loc Box from Exmoor Trim to house additional fuse box etc but need to know if the sizes will match the cubby box. I have emailed the retailer but had no reply. Has anyone bought one of these and can let me know the dimensions?

I have just registered with GTR but to get access to the workshop manuals costs STG154 per year. THat is far too much for me to pay although you can pay by the day @ STG8/day! Does no one produce printed versions these days? IS there nowhere cheaper?

Where can I get hold of printed or electronic workshop manuals for recent Defenders i.e 2007 models

Many thanks, I;ll have a go this w/e

So I don't need to remove any of the heater control knobs?

I want to add some Carling switches into the centre console of my 2007 Defender at the point marked x in the photo. How do I remove the front of the console? I have removed the two screws at the sides of the rotating heating controls but the panel is not released with just these. What else do I need to do? I have tried removing the knobs on the heating controls but they don't appear to come away easily. The headlamp adjustment knob will pull off but it looks as if this does not need to be removed. Can anyone who has done this talk me through the process. I don't want to damage anything as the vehicle is still under warranty. Also, when the panel is removed do you get easy access to the sides of the console without further removal of parts like heating pipes? Many thanks Tom

Thanks guys. Those of you that do jack using the sills, have you found any problem with the side riggers( to which I assume the sills are bolted) taking all the weight of the vehicle? I am not using the vehicle for competition work but I am fitting it out for an expedition and I still concerned that the extra weight will be too much. I like the look of the Mantech ones but they say not to jack on them.

I want to fit some side protection sills (rock sliders) to my 2007 Defender 110 and have been looking at various after market products available in the UK. However I am a little confused as to whether it is safe to jack the vehicle using these sills. Some manufacturers provide jacking holes in the sills whilst others specifically advise against it. So who is right, I assume it is dependent on the strength of the mounting points?

Many thanks for all the useful replies. I have bought some Armaflex insulation on ebay and will start the job once the weather improves and I can get the truck properly dried out.

I have a 2007 Defender 110 with utility back which I am fitting out for a long expedition which will take me from the Arctic down through Africa and eventually to Australia. Having spent this winter suffering from constant condensation in the rear of the truck I am now determined to insulate all the accessible body panels and possible underneath the roof headlining. What I have in mind is to buy a number of 12mm closed cell foam camping mats and stick them to the metal panels using contact adhesive. Then cover this with the thin “carpet” type material used to line motorhomes. Has anyone undertaken a similar insulation of their truck and can offer any advice or alternatives. In particular I would be interested to hear how effective their solution was and whether it coped with both the extreme cold and heat which I will be encountering. Also anyone know where I can purchase the lining material used in motorhomes? Thanks Tom

I bought one of these recently and I am not that pleased with it. The powder coating has already chipped off in places and more importantly, I am not happy with the way the mounting brackets are drilled. There are too many elongated holes (rather than precision placed circular holes) for bolting the brackets to the capping and cross member which means that over time with constant vibration off road, the brackets will move. I also had to re-drill the interior backing plate for the top bracket because the holes did not line up with rivet holes. The fixing to the back door also required modification and does not allow you to lock the door open so it can swing shut on its own. All in all not what you would expect from a quality product. I wish I had now bought the Mantec carrier and may well change it sometime.

Hi Badger, Thanks for the detailed instructions on fitting the switches. I am going to take a look inside the console today before I order the switches. Are these screws the two either side of the heating controls and do they release just the central panel containing the controls and leave the side panels with air vents in place? Tom