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Scotts90

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Posts posted by Scotts90

  1. Don’t think you can really get around the glow plugs issue. If you’ve replaced the barrel (I think you asked about that in another thread) then you don’t have the “hold” option, only way is to fit an ignition triggered timer relay for the plugs. 

    The large grommets fit in the bulkhead apertures and have the appropriate holes for the heater Bowden cables, a squirt of wd40 helps the grommets ease in. 

  2. I’ll ask the obvious first...does it have full central locking and did it work prior to the rebuild?

    If so, does pushing the door button down (doors closed) actuate the central locking solenoids? Check the door wiring looms are plugged fully home, if the basic locking system is working then check the wiring from the 10AS or if you’ve got access to a code reader do a diagnostic on it to ensure it’s configured accordingly. It’s a small internal relay that triggers the locking so that may have an issue. Multimeter and a wiring diagram and check for power and earths (it’s a defender after all!!) Also a good idea to give the relevant fuse a clean and a wiggle!

    The dash LED is also handy for letting you know if there’s a pin switch issue, it’ll be solid red if it thinks there’s a door still open    

     

  3. Standard boosts are et35 if memory serves, going to an et8 will give you 27mm of movement towards the outer arch. 

    My boosts on 265/75 have a 30mm spacer giving the equivalent of an et5 (the spacer effectively moves the mounting face to almost the centre of the wheel) 

    ET0 and ET10 are quite common offsets in aftermarket modulars/alloys. 

  4. Yes, the large grey plug with orange insert is for the towing elecs .

    Wiper electrics will be dependent on which loom you have. If it’s configured for it then you should have a natural coloured plug along with the nsr light plugs. This does the wiper/wash functions, oddly enough the remote central locking for the tail door (again if configured) comes from the roof part of the loom. 

  5. Nicely done. FYI the reason the LED is “solid” and not flashing is down to the alarm thinking the doors are open (pin switches)

    if you have the immobiliser activated (as indicated on the dash panel) then you’ll need the pick up ring for around the ignition barrel so that the fob can disable the immobiliser when in close enough proximity.

    With regards to the plugs above, they are different pin/plug arrangements so won’t interchange as the guide slots are in different orientations iirc...making them different colours just makes it easier to identify. 

  6. The fob doesn't have a red light, just two buttons. Do you have the td5 clocks? These have the alarm indicator led built into the speedo so would show what it's doing. This won't be an easy thing to bench test as it reads inputs for the pin switches (doors and bonnet) and will signal a circuit fault. 

    It doesn't need the power sounder fitted as it will activate the horn.

  7. I get between 25 and 30 on the 90 200tdi. Running 265/75 BFG MT. and a standard 1.41 transfer box with roof rack/winch&bumper and a shedload if sound deadening. 

    That’s mainly small runs, on a 30 mile trip to Glasgow it’s better unless you chase it on. It really just likes sitting about 60, it’s just shy of 3000rpm at 70. 

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