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Posts posted by Scotts90

  1. Pretty much the same advice as Ed and HoSS, steel is a lot slower so gives you time to perfect your feed/dipping technique, stainless gives good results for a newbie too. I have had my TIG  for a few years and I can do passable welds, fabricate brackets etc but it'll never match a MIG if you need to carry out welds on less than clean/sound surfaces or in awkward positions. Being in a comfortable position (seated helps) and being able to carry out the weld in a smooth manner is key (if you can't you'll end up dipping the tungsten or losing the arc).

    Aluminium. When it goes well...it's great. A nightmare when it doesn't! Practice on thicker material running beads across plates. This gives you an idea of how much current is required to start a puddle and then just keep it going by modulating your pedal. Once you have a good grasp of this you can start to introduce filler as and when necessary. It's very much a hands on practice skill for technique, the Miller site has an app which will give you tungsten diameters, filler rod size and amperage settings for different materials and thicknesses (aimed at Miller machines but good enough for a starting point). Don't weld in a draughty area as losing the shielding gas creates some really poor welds.



  2. I bought a Sealey version a good few years ago when rebuilding a tractor, the punch broke at its pivot not long after purchase. Really should've taken it back but it still functioned (and still does), I just need to push the punch back down as it won't retract. 

    The flange setting is fine on mine with 1.0mm material but struggles to produce a decent rebate on 1.6mm, so depends on what your needs are.

    iirc mine was about £50 

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  3. When I applied the 3v across the solenoid it was enough to hold it in the "on" position but not strong enough to overcome the spring and pull the plunger home  from the "off", the blip may cause enough of a draw through the pump to pull the plunger down onto its seating (overcoming the small voltages' magnetic force)

    Did you see any momentary change in voltage prior to shut down? Was it still there after the engine stopped?

  4. 4 hours ago, Gazzar said:

    I've this problem in my 109 with a TDI 200. 

    I have found that pressing the brake pedal whilst switching off is enough extra drag on the engine to kill it off. 

    I assume the vacuum pump load stops it.


    Interestingly enough, the brake light circuit is fed from the same ign feed as the stop solenoid. Is the load of the lights enough to kill any stray voltage?? Hmm

  5. Just had a little play with some solenoids and some batteries. 

    3v DC was just enough to keep the solenoid open (proved working on a12v supply). It would hold it open from closed but not close it  

    My 200 had a thing for keeping running, changing the solenoid would work for a few months. It’s never needed one since the pump was changed so it must’ve been related to the pump port/sticking etc. 

  6. 3 hours ago, Snagger said:

    It just gets tiresome when people defend Land Rover, saying that there is no evidence the new vehicle will be unreliable when all of their vehicles have proven to be so in the past and the new one is openly using parts and equipment from some of the most troublesome they ever created, and then arguing the point by claiming we have no knowledge as we don't own one.  I have numerous neighbours and colleagues who have L322s, L405, RR Sports (both versions), D3, and 5, D Sport and a couple of Evoques.  All but a couple of D4 owners are suffering continual expensive problems and the surveys bear the same results.  I also have LR specialist mechanic friends, so hear plenty of feedback that way too.  Loving a marque or model is great, but blind allegiance to it to the extent of denying the obvious is unhealthy, especially when that manufacturer treats loyal customers so badly.

    I too have friends who own a 4x4 specialist garage and also see first hand the problems that plague Landrover...

    And Mitsubishi, Jeep, Toyota, VW/Audi variants etc  

    There is a thread in this forum where someone asked about buying a defender, to which someone had replied they were no more troublesome or unreliable than any other vehicle if properly maintained. So fortunately I’m not the only misguided fool.

    But I can see I’m fighting a losing battle, I like my land rovers...wouldn’t go as far to say I love them...it’s only a machine after all.

    So please carry on unabated. I’m done

    (Hurrah I can hear over t’internet 🙄)


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  7. Looking at the pics on YRMs site for the alloy version the tub is still on the chassis as they offer up the new part. Never had a 110  wagon in bits, only a pickup so can’t offer any more help. 

    Galv one won’t rot the same but may create some galvanic corrosion unless suitably isolated. Aluminium one as per OE  has lasted well if that’s its original support.  

    Personally I’d stick the aluminium one on. 

  8. Fair enough, if that was not what you implied that's fine by me. It did read that way though as the following comment showed.

    My intention was far from being belligerent; I didn't dispute Toyotas legendary reliability, just highlighted the fact that as volume sales go the cruiser is a small proportion (global sales since production at approx 3.5% of vehicles sold). Figures from global production of 200million (Toyotas website) vehicles up to 2018 and citing Jamie's figure of 7million being Landcruisers) this includes commercial sales too. Compare Landrovers limited line up of vehicles to the amount offered by Toyota and it's hardly comparing like for like, as mentioned previously LR is a niche manufacturer.

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  9. Thanks Bowie and Snagger for the trolling accusation :mellow:. My apologies if my posts were contrary to high percentage of those previous. 

    Having owned a good few of the "new" models over the last 20years I've not had one grind to a halt  or leave me stranded...closest was reduced power due to a D3 EGR. So in my own experience (which counts for nothing it would appear in this topic) my Land Rovers have been reliable. Out of interest, how many commenters have owned and ran recent JLR vehicles?

    As HOG says, it's all moot until it's on sale and you can sit your butt in the seat...then rip it to shreds.:(



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