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Scotts90

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Scotts90 last won the day on March 25

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About Scotts90

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    Ayrshire

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  1. Scotts90

    john

    Bonnet catch at a guess. Lean harder!!
  2. Scotts90

    This is a pointless post

    Not just any Freelander....a limited edition!
  3. Scotts90

    Vent repair

    Not hard but time consuming...unless you have the hands of a child removing the whole wing assembly is easiest Its better to work from the front back, so you’ll need to remove the grill (screws) to access the bolts that are through the grill frame. Remove frame. Depending on spec you’ll have a power steering reservoir and radiator expansion tank on one side, the washer bottle and horn on the other...unbolt these. The wiring looms for the lights are clipped along the inner wing, you can either unplug at the bulkhead or at the lights. Either way it’ll need disconnecting. Remove the wheel arches, just push the small pin through the plastic rivets to release, again from inside the wheel arch there are two large self tappers that go through to the bulkhead bracket, another bolt into the chassis bracket and towards the front another bolt just above the chassis leg. These all secure the inner wing. Underneath the vehicle there should be a wing stay going from the bulkhead floor to the lower edge of the wing, also back in the engine bay at the top some models have brackets holding the top wing section...unbolt Looking through the gap where the plastic arch was towards the bulkhead you’ll see the 4 bolts that hold the wing to the bulkhead, some have bolts, some have large self tappers...it varies. The wing actually has slots that angle downward to save removing these completely but it’s sometimes just as easy to remove them. Also if you have an aerial fitted you’ll have to disconnect. I think that’s them all...the whole assembly now needs lifted up and over the spring turret. Bit awkward but not too heavy. This was from memory but I think it covers most of it lol. You can remove the outer and top skin and leave the inner wing in situ but the bolts that hold the lot together require the manual dexterity of a contortionist and the patience of a saint blessed with small hands!
  4. Second hand 200/300 units are making up to £1k if eBay is to be believed, td5 units between £5-600, as with all pre-owned you're taking an educated gamble. Think simmonites were advertising remanufactured 2/300 units for just under £8k. Td5 short block with new crank/rebored etc and a new fully built AMC head from turners will set you back about £4.5k. My td5 is sitting just shy of a quarter million miles...if it needs a head and a rebore then so be it. At 250k with unknown servicing it's done ok, still purrs well!
  5. Scotts90

    Exhaust system for a Landrover 90 with a 200Tdi engine

    Ralph is correct though, if it's "standard" then there's no reason why the OE system won't fit. Fabricating a couple of hangars if you can't find the ones you need may be an inconvenience at the moment but will mean future replacements are like for like. @Jon W, the td5 rear uses a 3bolt flange which is why I used the earlier 300tdi version as it uses a 2bolt.
  6. Scotts90

    Exhaust system for a Landrover 90 with a 200Tdi engine

    I use the 300tdi (ESR4527) to clear my rear mounted tank (having done away with the steel 90 underseat one). My system uses the original front pipe which comes down from the turbo and steps over the gearbox crossmember, this then bolts to the standard 200tdi centre silencer which required a tweak to fit up to the 300 rear... Centre silencer rearmost bracket... flange cut off and welded to meet 300tdi rear... and the esr4527... It was my intention to fab up a stainless item using this as a pattern....it's still on the to-do list lol
  7. Scotts90

    Hand pump for oil change

    I use the same as paintman with a length of tube attached. The biggest help is warming the new oil prior to filling. I can squeeze in a litre of EP in seconds.
  8. Does anyone buy a defender on grounds of fuel economy? I think we all buy them safe in the knowledge that most foreign 4x4s can out perform them on the mpg stakes. My td5 was better on fuel than the tdi but not by a huge margin.
  9. Ok, so if it's cheap and got a td5 lump it's a ticking time bomb but if it's cheap with a 300tdi it's not? The prices of td5 engines are less than 200/300tdi units these days and if a 300 needs a head then the downtime will be similar. You also have the same problems when trying to find a decent second hand unit regardless of variant. Personally I think the td5 is a great engine well suited to the defender and discovery alike. As Bowie mentioned nothing vaguely modern is cheap to repair and if you baulk at a td5 then go and have a look at tdv6 repairs....
  10. Scotts90

    mystery button

    Should we assume that it does nothing now when pressed? Given the mismatch of wire colours I don't think we can realistically use them to trace. Wh/Gr is a switched live, so it will activate the relay when the ign is on. Purple/blue is usually a door pin switch colour. Either way it's not the nicest of installs so I'd be getting that stripped out.
  11. Scotts90

    Galvanised bulkheads Yes or No!!

    Scrape as much off as possible, the blasting should've got most of it out and the acid dip won't clear it all off...this results in black residue patches where the galv hasn't taken. A blow torch and a selection of old screwdrivers and scrapers to get into the nooks and crannies helps. I drilled a couple of extra holes on the underside of the drip panel...just to allow it to flow through (or at least that was the theory and has worked well with my last two). There seems to a be a load of sealer in the corners above the footwells and at the gearbox tunnel aperture. The more effort you put in to cleaning it will result in a better job from the galvanisers
  12. Scotts90

    Defender cd player adaptor

    Top pic uses standard ISO connectors...found in most OE stereo fitments for many years. Bottom pic is a standard Alpine multiplug...so you need an ISO to Alpine patch lead. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Alpine-16-Pin-ISO-Wiring-Harness-Connector-Adaptor-Car-Stereo-Radio-Loom/1741514167 like that.
  13. Scotts90

    Vent repair

    You'll need to remove the screen to do it properly. This isn't a straight forward or easy repair...first you'll need to drill out all the spot welds that hold the original pressing to the inner bulkhead strengtheners. There are spot welds all around the vent seal aperture (you'll have to delicately remove the mesh), and a few dotted about around the usual rot spots in the top corners (if they haven't rotted away). The spots welds on the top of the panel where the windscreen sits don't need to be drilled as I've found these repair panels are shorter on the top fold although this then requires a seam weld all along the top. You'll also need to remove the drip channel too. Best to tackle one side at a time to retain some shape, the wiper spindle holes can act as a datum for alignment as can the windscreen mount holes (if they haven't rusted away!) Its time consuming for sure.... Spots drilled... Youll also need to refit the bonnet hinges which are spot plug welded on, the vent flap hinges were slightly out on the ones I fitted so these had to be removed and welded back on.
  14. Scotts90

    Fastening an engine to an engine stand

    I've got a couple, one a Clarke and the other from SGS engineering, they will both hold fully assembled engines using the same methods as described. At the moment my td5 complete engine is on the SGS one...and yes rotating it is not easy on the stand as they are top heavy...so once it's going it could do some damage. Add that to the height from pivot may mean they won't go 180°. The td5 won't go all the way around and it's very heavy to get upright again.
  15. Scotts90

    Power for central locking

    10AS is there in the pic, the green module behind all the wires that's fixed to the bulkhead. The part number usually reveals which options it's configured for (alarm/central locking/immobiliser). A search on everyone's favourite auction site for "10AS" usually finds a guy that advertises reprogramming and fitment of the internal relays to the unit to allow all functions.
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