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Scotts90 last won the day on November 7 2015

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About Scotts90

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  1. Alternator issues

    My Lucas 65a and original 45a had the same "blip to extinguish" from day one, it also had a little habit of munching belts...I changed to the 100a britpart and touch wood it's been fine...no need to blip and the belt has been fine too. Before the swap I had fitted extra earth straps to the block and carried out continuity checks for the charging light circuit but to no avail. May be worth checking the earth wires at the the instruments are good
  2. Grinding noise coming from transfer box.

    I know you're going to re use the fixed spacer, the collapsible one is readily available on eBay if you have supplier issues. After washing out your bearings with petrol and letting them dry off I'd dunk them in a tub with your chosen oil to soak. I do this with new bearings prior to fitting too. This is the version I use
  3. Grinding noise coming from transfer box.

    Which workshop manual are you using? As mentioned on the first page (quoted above) the spacers are now obsolete. I’ve rebuilt 4 LT230s with the Ashcroft kits and they’ve all just had crush spacers. Even treated myself to a dial torque wrench for the specific task!
  4. Grinding noise coming from transfer box.

    How do you set the preload on the intermediate gear bearings if you don't have a crush/collapsible spacer? Having looked at my LT230 manual it doesn't mention any box ranges with a fixed spacer. I'm sure Ashtrans will be the guy who knows...
  5. Grinding noise coming from transfer box.

    Pretty sure I've got an old crush spacer in my "boxoflt230bits" and if memory serves it was deformed way more than the one in your pics. Will measure tonight if I can find it.
  6. Just to clarify, it wasn't just a few bits...approx £2.5k as the chassis was the only good bit left. Full set of panels, new alloy floor, axles, wheelarches and most of the hinges/bracketry. We looked at a new 511 but they are more plastic and quite flimsy compared to the older design. The good lady has Clydesdales so it needs to be quite well built! IW blamed the dealer, the dealer blamed IW and it just tainted the company in my eyes. I spoke direct to IW over the delays and was fobbed off on a weekly basis. They may be completely different if dealing with a new build.....
  7. Ifor Williams are one of the worst companies I've dealt with. Rebuilt an HB510 for SWMBO and what a bleeding nightmare trying to get them to send me parts...all paid for in advance or they wouldn't send them to the dealer. Not much of a problem paying for stuff up front but having to chase them for 3 months soon wore my patience thin. We haven't bought an Ifor since...new cattle float was a Nuggent (much better built IMO)
  8. Chassis purchase

    I found the shielder built chassis advertised on eBay, and given the prices and lead times for Richards and Marslands it does appear a good deal. Would be interesting to see all three suppliers' chassis lined up for an immediate comparison although having seen the RC and Marslands side by side I would have still opted for the latter. RC wins on its customisable options during fabrication but the "genuine" construction of the Marslands wins my vote. A lot of heavy duty agricultural equipment comes from the Emerald Isle (we've got tankers/low loaders/trailers etc all from Irish suppliers) and they're very well made...if Sheilder get a good name by supplying a good product especially on forums like this then it can only be a good thing for the preservation of the species!
  9. 200tdi starter motor earth

    Sounds like a low battery issue, however if you think it's lacking an earth path then a set of jump leads can be useful to clamp to block/starter and direct to the battery negative.
  10. Velar spotted

    Whilst crawling towards a set of traffic lights heading through Mauchline I spied a large honeycomb grill and the "RangeRover" bonnet badging edging towards me....too big for an Ewok, too small for a Sport...Velars aren't out yet I thought? 66plate in grey with a black roof, the answer to my "out yet ?" question was answered. Above the front reg plate in a slightly different shade of grey were the words "prototype vehicle" so I assume this could be a pre-release press hack? Either way it looked not too bad all round, nicer than the D5 with its daft offset rear number plate. No pics as the traffic car behind wouldn't have been too happy
  11. Re-flooring my trailer

    When I refurbed er indoors' horse trailer I changed it from phenolic (read "rotten") board flooring to an alloy floor. The pukka Ifor williams stuff is like tongue and groove alloy boards....looked great once done, it was a shame to fit the rubber matting over it. Our new cattle trailers are all chequer plate now, all seam welded with drains and catch tanks. One of the first Ifor flatbeds we had was a chequer bed but the current 17ft has phenolic boarding. It does help its longevity being stored inside though...
  12. Handbrake light switch/wiring

    Blue wire must be an extra from a previous owner. From memory battery power feeds to the starter motor/alternator then loops around the back of the block with two 4mm2 brown cables to feed into the fuse box and bulkhead loom.
  13. A new rival to the Defender?

    It's mentioned in some depth here.... on page 2 by Zardos.
  14. Handbrake light switch/wiring

    Handbrake from original wiring was a yellow wire, onto the switch tacked onto the side of the handbrake. You'll have a pair of wires for the diff lock switch (black/blue and black) and another pair for the reverse light (green & green/brown). If it was "standard" wiring there shouldn't be a blue down there. The handbrake wire operates a switched earth, so may be worth checking with a multimeter or test lamp to see if your blue wire has got power....you could of course be highly unscientific and Earth the blue wire and see if your handbrake warning light illuminates! Worst case scenario you'll pop a fuse
  15. intermittent clutch after replacement

    Although you ordered the identical parts are they actually the same? A slight change in manufacturer tolerance creating an issue? Was there any indication on the removed parts of the cause of slippage? Did you cover a lot of miles with the previous set up prior to it failing? Any contamination/bluing on the flywheel? Apologies for the questions but if the problem was there prior to exchanging the parts and is still evident after all your above checks what else is there? Did you fit a new clutch fork and/or could it be sticking on the pivot? weird.