Scotts90
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Posts posted by Scotts90
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14MY? Do Landrover not offer a 3yr warranty worldwide? Even if it's just expired I'd be hoping for some goodwill from LR/dealer if the car has been serviced and maintained to schedule.
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3 hours ago, DC_ said:
Mines does 3, not sure if that’s standard. 1st click is like it’s ready to go, 2nd click, low setting. 3rd click full. Just wondering if there’s something preventing it from the 3rd click?
1st click is the flap open, the next two control the fan speeds. Fully "off" closes the flap and stops natural airflow. Fitting the speed modulator I linked to does away with the facility to shut the flap and is left in the open position. Just means you get airflow through the heater when moving at speed.
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I got rid of the archaic fan speed system and fitted this...
https://shop.landreiziger.nl/modificatie/mods-in-a-box/elektronische-ventilator-aansturing.html
Works great
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Your intercooler pipe (the long straight one) will prohibit the fitment of most airbox arrangements, can't really see a straightforward way of connecting up the safari snorkel and incorporate an air filter without moving that pipe. Most disco conversions I've seen have the lower pipe routed differently.
Can you weld? Making an adaptor flange for the wing only requires the template shape if the wing cut out and a suitable stub of pipe welded to it to allow the flexi hose connection...probably a greater chance of making this watertight than you have of the original setup.
The filtration part is the headache, 200tdi airbox defender engine clamps just behind the intercooler/rad on the inner wing, the 300tdi defender airbox goes on the left of the rocker (as you are looking at it).
if you're looking for a simple fix then I don't think there is one...
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I did the whole dance with t/stat, waterpump and flush after my heater performance became erratic at best. Didn't make much difference so ended up doing the head gasket and it's been fine ever since.
The my temp gauge never went off the scale but it was elevated from its normal "just below half" and the heater blew cold/Luke warm air. Also check the pressure in the water pipes...if they're rock hard and look as if they're expanded due to pressure then it may point to the head gasket.
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Oh and the quikstrip wheels come in different grades...the harsher ones I've tried will strip paint and birmabright if you get carried away
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Soda blasting? Walnut media? Known to be least harsh on soft metals
Chemical strippers are nasty and require lots of cleaning afterwards; they do work but I'd leave to a specialist.
Most abrasives will require refining to get to a paintable level so cue lots of elbow grease, time and patience. I bare-metalled 95% of my 90 prior to paint/colour change and without doubt the body work prep was the most time consuming of the rebuild.
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Drivers side? 200tdi should be passenger side...
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As Doug says we need more info before we can help...I have a safari snorkel, this bolts directly to the outer wing skin with a foam seal utilising the original inner wing connector....which are like hens teeth although they do drop up on eBay now and again. If you are handy at fabricating then making up an adaptor plate with a suitable pipe boss isn't too hard. For the hose to the airbox for the snorkel I bought some flexible hose from Southdown. A
With regards to filtration you could always fit a filter head similar to those installed on some older tractors
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Doesn't sound too far gone, it's a time and effort affair for repairing them. Just purchased a set of repair panels to do a td5 one (extended as listed above), I've also ordered the newly available full vent panels (YRM don't list them, they have corner repairs or vent removal sections). The top corner and vent areas are the hardest to get an invisible repair albeit it depends how far gone your corners are...you may be able to cut out the rust and replace with fresh steel.
The footwells are a mainly spot welded in, if you have access to welding gear give it a go...doing numerous plug welds is great practice.
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That's an interesting link, driving down to Girvan along the picturesque Ayrshire coast (when it's sunny) I came across a Land Rover Experience fleet...Velar, Sport, Disco5, RRS, Evoque....all 17plates and bumbling away at the rear was a 65 110 Defender. All resplendent in white with the LR oval on the bonnet so it was either still currently available for playing in or was a support vehicle.
Time will tell, think I'll stick to the original versions for a while though....
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another part added to the "may as well replace when it's in bits" list
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Well you did ask the question as to why, so we supplied our reasons. As you say each to their own, although most owners try to improve upon Rover/BLs finest penny pinching when it came to lighting and wiring applications throughout the various incarnations of Series and Defenders.
sealed beam units anyone? Lol
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Has it been cut around the gearbox tunnel? I have the td5 insulator pads on my 200tdi but can't seem to find an accurate listing, however this https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/interior-trim/trim/sound-proofing_45039 (item1) looks like it although it states 07-16MY
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Complication? Most (myself included) fit for added durability and increased visibility .
Never had to replace or renew a bulb in 3yrs of fitment of LED units on the 90. Our 110 pickup had a healthy appetite for filament bulb and holder failure.
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Most of the suppliers will do individual LED units without having to purchase a full vehicle set. Paddocks do them...
http://www.paddockspares.com/led-stop-tail-lamp.html
your location may preclude some suppliers though!
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Good stuff.
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My Lucas 65a and original 45a had the same "blip to extinguish" from day one, it also had a little habit of munching belts...I changed to the 100a britpart and touch wood it's been fine...no need to blip and the belt has been fine too. Before the swap I had fitted extra earth straps to the block and carried out continuity checks for the charging light circuit but to no avail.
May be worth checking the earth wires at the the instruments are good
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I know you're going to re use the fixed spacer, the collapsible one is readily available on eBay if you have supplier issues.
After washing out your bearings with petrol and letting them dry off I'd dunk them in a tub with your chosen oil to soak. I do this with new bearings prior to fitting too.
This is the version I use
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On 22/11/2015 at 10:25 PM, tweetyduck said:
the crush spacer is single size and the previous selectable size spacers are now obsolete really. i'd not use selective spacers in any box to be fair but i'm no expert. The crush spacer is just that it crushes and all you need do is fit it and tighten up the inter bolt until there is zero endfloat (movement) in the inter gears. just keep tightening until it stops floating. Simples.
Which workshop manual are you using? As mentioned on the first page (quoted above) the spacers are now obsolete.
I’ve rebuilt 4 LT230s with the Ashcroft kits and they’ve all just had crush spacers. Even treated myself to a dial torque wrench for the specific task!
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How do you set the preload on the intermediate gear bearings if you don't have a crush/collapsible spacer? Having looked at my LT230 manual it doesn't mention any box ranges with a fixed spacer. I'm sure Ashtrans will be the guy who knows...
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Pretty sure I've got an old crush spacer in my "boxoflt230bits" and if memory serves it was deformed way more than the one in your pics. Will measure tonight if I can find it.
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Just to clarify, it wasn't just a few bits...approx £2.5k as the chassis was the only good bit left. Full set of panels, new alloy floor, axles, wheelarches and most of the hinges/bracketry. We looked at a new 511 but they are more plastic and quite flimsy compared to the older design. The good lady has Clydesdales so it needs to be quite well built!
IW blamed the dealer, the dealer blamed IW and it just tainted the company in my eyes. I spoke direct to IW over the delays and was fobbed off on a weekly basis.
They may be completely different if dealing with a new build.....
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Ifor Williams are one of the worst companies I've dealt with. Rebuilt an HB510 for SWMBO and what a bleeding nightmare trying to get them to send me parts...all paid for in advance or they wouldn't send them to the dealer. Not much of a problem paying for stuff up front but having to chase them for 3 months soon wore my patience thin.
We haven't bought an Ifor since...new cattle float was a Nuggent (much better built IMO)
Defender windscreen glass question
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I fitted my heated screen, using the string (use paracord...it won't break). I did splurge on a genuine seal and have had no issues with leaks. An assistant is useful but not necessary (I managed solo) and having strong fingers to pry and manipulate the seal as you go helps. Having the seal warm also makes it more pliable so keep it inside rather than leaving in the cold, or a few minutes in front in the space heater.