Scotts90
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Posts posted by Scotts90
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Shear genius
Superlock plate
Fear-no-shear
it's early on Sunday lol
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I think the whole point is not having to change the head unit, hence the info about high level line inputs..
In a word, No. You won't have to lose the rear speakers, in order for the sub to act as a monoraul speaker the high level inputs from both left/right channels should be used (the multiplug will have 4 tails to splice into R+R- and L+L-). Back in the day we used Line out converters to converter speaker signals to RCA, the amp just has this facility built in.
There are highly expensive ways to create RCA pre-outs on OEM head units and provide a higher voltage and cleaner signal but if a little bass is all you want then the above should work just fine.
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I've got one of the eBay specials, think it was about £40...I did buy one of those wheeled and nylon coated tyre levers which once you have the knack is pretty efficient.
Did a full set of swap overs on the L200s, all alloys without a single mark. It's the clamping on the cheapie models that does the damage but the main goal is to stop it from spinning while working the lever around the rim. But of practice as said above and it's just as quick as a powered changer.
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Cool. Glad to help
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Hmmm, could this be to hold the rear panel in situ during assembly? The wiring apertures are filler welded opposed to spot welds (tacked in each corner), a process that may have been upgraded as it got more "modern".
With two dead centre and an offset one it could be just for alignment purposes.
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My 86 bulkhead has these rivets but neither of my td5 ones do....I've never had that section cut open but there are lots of weirdly placed strengthening panels throughout the bulkhead
possibly a riveted on strengthening plate for mounting the fuel filter head or similar?
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That's it.... tease us Mav!
Regardles of what appears it will be loved and loathed with equal aplomb.
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Is the wife in the car?
on a more helpful note, my exhaust has a certain resonance at engine/road speeds so may be that as Lightning says.
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Haha, swear filter didn't like my use of the common word for questionable parentage starting with "b" and ending 'stard lol
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Sorry but that looks like the person I'm not that keen on love child of a mk1 LWB shogun and a fiat panda.
yuk!
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Depends one whether they are classing it as a "van" hence it'll be a commercial policy. Lots of insurers are funny when it comes to stuff like that, even if it's not for commercial use.
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Have you cracked the injector pipe connections at the pump end to check if the low pressure is consistent or if there is indeed fuel at 1&2? Is there a possibility of the injectors being blocked/choked?
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The ones in question have two external guides plus the lock latch and the central divider. Different from the td5 indicator plugs in the link.
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Well I did assume once identified that he’d source a local one.
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Looks like a standard h11 bulb connector ...
not to be confused with an h9 as it has two dividers in the plug rather than one
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You get filler specifically designed for awkward metals like galv and aluminium
Straight onto bare finish but it doesn’t mention t-wash/mordant solution prior to application. I’d be tempted to drop their tech line an email to see.
On my bulkhead I t-washed, etch primed and then hit it with multiple layers of high build primer that could be flatted back to a nice paint worthy level. It came out well
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Yes the tdci/td5 switch is different from the tdi one...old age is kicking in and I can't remember what I did lol.
pretty sure it's the glow plug circuit part that needs tweaked though...
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I must admit the simplicity of the tdi where only one electrical input is required to keep it running has its benefits. Still, as things go the td5 isn't the most complicated setup.
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My 200 has a penchant for fuel cut off solenoids. Do not assume it's working because you can hear the solenoid "click".
Part number is RTC6702, it's a 10minute swap and a very simple thing to rule out.
As for the starter not engaging unless the solenoid is connected, it's a very basic wiring system. Ignition fed live to the fuel solenoid and the starter solenoid fed from the "start" position on the ignition barrel. I can't really see why disconnecting one should affect the other...do you have the white and white/red wires in the proper place on the ignition barrel switch?
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The selector can be mounted either way as it actually clamps itself into the aperture left by the old switch assembly. There are no restrictions on orientation...either by design or by accident!
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Yes, the 2.2 and 2.4 engines are lovely in the Transits
...my 120k transit 2.2 sounds like the proverbial bag of spanners...I'm waiting with baited breath for its catastrophic failure. The 256k td5 in the new project purred like a kitten in comparison.
At work we've had numerous failings from cranks, to cams and timing chain failures although mainly on the 2.4 145 version.
And lets face it, as dirty diesels go an unsilenced td5 sounds lovely.
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No, still forwards when fitted to the proper side of the vehicle lol.
I had to extend the wiring approx 12" for the heater splice and sited the unit on front of the heater box, not on the side as suggested by the LHD instructions.
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That supacat has a strangely alluring look....Ewok lights and clamshell bonnet but still makes me think of a Toyota Land Cruiser...must be going mad.
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I use Bing translator on my iPad , I assume it will work on a pc too.
On my initial purchase they were awaiting stock and were more than happy to correspond via email in English to keep me updated.
...my 120k transit 2.2 sounds like the proverbial bag of spanners...I'm waiting with baited breath for its catastrophic failure. The 256k td5 in the new project purred like a kitten in comparison.
Need a Product name for my newest product !
in International Forum
Posted
Teardrop lock