Scotts90
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Posts posted by Scotts90
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It's a t40 torx bit
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Dead easy...pop the switch..lever gently from both sides to save pulling the front off it. Unplug the multiplug...
Loop out 1&4 you can see them in the pic below (dip beam and ign on)
And you should hear the relay click and the dash/fog light should illuminate
The fog light relay is a latching type, the fog light switch itself is momentary so you only need to make the circuit across 1&4 to turn it on (the bridging wire doesn't need to stay in). To turn off the light simply re-make the circuit across 1&4 .
Hope that helps
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Exactly what is reacting? The etch on the aluminium or the top coat on the etch? If your etch primer is straying into areas with paint then this may react as the etch is trying to eat into the substrate to bond.
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Pull the plug off the back, get the magnifying glass out and find 1&4...then bridge out. Or bridge the back of the plug out, black to black/slate. Crude but effective lol
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Pins 1&4 deal with the switching side of things according to the wiring diagram...so bridging out 1&4 should give the ecu the earth trigger and bring on the fog lamp. Pin 1 has a black/slate wire, pin 4 has a black. You should still be able to test continuity over the switch with a multimeter prior to bridging stuff out though
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Another one to add to the collection thanks Ralph. I was using the 300tdi/td5 diagrams which I assumed was for the 300tdi ROW wiring with the later dash pack.
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You're correct the vac pump would not affect the lights.
You could renew the wires from the instrument cluster multiplug back to your known "good" points or to the individual switches with no issues. There are no diodes on those wires as far as I'm aware, nothing showing on the wiring diagrams.
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The problem needs to be where both wires run together. If it was on one of the wires then only one light would be lit. Has there been anything removed and refitted that could have pinched the wires gave them an earth short?
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Fuse 15 supplies power (5a fuse) this goes via a header then feeds into the instrument panel itself. Power leaves the cluster via a bk/WH wire to a header which splits to feed the handbrake switch (Ye/WH) and the fluid level switch (bk/WH). The illumination relies on a switched earth, be it via the handbrake or fluid switch. This is for the later dash panel which only has one light for handbrake/fluid level...hence the linked earth.
If you have individual (0) and (p) lights they have individual earth paths through black/wh and yell/wh respectively....which means they must be getting earthed at the same point...which leads to a chaffed wire quite possibly behind the instrument panel
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This is high on my to do list as well, would quite like a stealth install though. I have the YRM under drivers seat tool box that only has a fusebox in it so hopefully will be able to squeeze something in there.
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To remove the barrel, insert key to retract the tumblers, push spring loaded pin in whilst pulling the barrel/key. You should be able to pull the whole lot out.
I bought a cheap lockset from flee bay and the pin didn't budge on the new barrel to allow them to slot into the handle assembly...consigned to the bin and a subsequent purchase of a genuine later lockset (I have an 07> rear door) fitted perfectly.
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Have you bridged out the switch at the gearbox to see if the light illuminates?
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Lr direct have the 110 in stock, eBay has the 90 one listed
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That looks more like the fuel pick up ntc2159, the return is smaller iirc with two bolts
I assume it's on a 90 with the tank under the seatbox?
http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/88716/5497/fuel_pick_up_pipe_diesel_def_90
On a 110, ntc2156
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I suppose if you've asked SP about the quality then they'd have no issues if you returned sub-standard items. Mine have been fine and are still tight, even with the kids/wife/mum using the door to assist entry rather than the grab handle. I must have been lucky...
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Glad to hear the pedal has cured your issue.
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Could always get these...
http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/Landrover-Defender-90-Stainless-Steel-Door-Hinges
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My old 86 bolts were all the same, no dowel types.
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I've never seen/noticed a different bolt on the swivels I've replaced on both early and late axles. Could be someone prior has replaced all bolts but I agree with James/Mav and Ross, can't see how the swivel could rotate on its axis and affect castor as all the holes are a tight fit.
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Can't see how you could SORN it if it's not got a v5
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Britcar is quite good for this type of information. Yes, STC4072 is the direct replacement for RTC4740
http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/419684/5497/superceded_by_stc4072
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Whereas my galv hinges (almost certain they were britpart) have been fine. No slop or drop and a lot better than a set of OE hinges I got off eBay. I purchased the hinges for my 07 rear door from SP and they are holding up fine.
I'll get blingy greasable billet ones if and when the front door hinges fail.
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Do you have the later type door (07>) hinges? These are similar to front door hinges and not designed for strip & repair i.e not nuts/springs/bolts but a pressed in hinge pin.
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I had a Google for it. Comes in various flavours with 9" and 11" travel shocks with the full monty turrets and reservoir equipped shocks.
I've got the 2" lift kit on mine, no complaints apart from the springs could do with some thicker powder coat.
When it goes I'll be going for some old man emu stuff though.
Change of Front Axle
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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I did the opposite...I have an 02 td5 front on my 90, no issues with the HD panhard rod which I had fitted to the '86 axle